Post by fenderbender on Dec 1, 2010 17:56:10 GMT -5
JohnH asked me to comment on this build from another thread I had started so it would be more visible. Here goes...
Parts were from StewMac & Mouser. I got the long shaft 500K pots from SM. Found out after ordering and removing the original pots that short shafts would work without a hitch on my Epiphone LP. However, in the end I was glad I got the ones I did because it elevated them above the 4PDT toggles to ease wiring. These were the toggles ordered. Also got the caps (orange drop types) from Mouser in the values listed on the first post.
I had one setback, if you can call it that, with the resistors for the tone-bleed bits. My local Radio Shack had listed 150k as being in stock when in fact there were none. No biggie, went with 220k instead. I do have some 47k & 100k on hand and thought about wiring them in series, but room was too precious for that stunt. I'm quite satisfied with these and really see no reason to change them - for now.
Overall the wiring was pretty straight forward but there are a few things I'd do slightly different if I did it on another guitar. First time jobs always seem to reveal the "oops" parts only after you get to them. Two of those things being the jack and three way switch. It became apparent when trying to wedge all this into the control pocket that having those parts pre-wired and installed with pigtails on the switches (like the pickup wires on the micro toggles) would have been the way to go. The heavier lead wires could have then been tucked neatly along the edges and perhaps some hot-melt glue used to hold them in place. Allowing, of course, enough slack on the ends for the final assembly. Something to chew on for the next project at the very least.
The 4PDT switches were a touch on the short side (shaft) and need to have a relief cut in the control cavity. I simply used a 3/8" Forstner bit and just crept up on the depth until the nut on the face side sat about flush with the top of the shaft. I suspect on some guitars that one might have to use a much larger bit to get the entire switch to set into the recess. My particular Epi was thin enough where I only need to allow clearance for the base of the shaft to switch shoulder. Oh, I sort of checked the top thickness when I drilled the tiny pilot hole by using a piece of wire and then pinching it off (face side) when it just touched my finger (cavity). Then held the wire to shaft to see roughly how much needed to go. I think if I were to measure that it would be approximately 1/4" as it wasn't very much.
The range of tones from this is impressive to say the least. Have a feeling it will take many days of tinkering to find them all and decide which works for me. I have a few pictures taken at various stages here.
Big thanks goes to the guys that dreamed this up!
PS: mods - if this is in the wrong area could you please move to appropriate location.
Parts were from StewMac & Mouser. I got the long shaft 500K pots from SM. Found out after ordering and removing the original pots that short shafts would work without a hitch on my Epiphone LP. However, in the end I was glad I got the ones I did because it elevated them above the 4PDT toggles to ease wiring. These were the toggles ordered. Also got the caps (orange drop types) from Mouser in the values listed on the first post.
I had one setback, if you can call it that, with the resistors for the tone-bleed bits. My local Radio Shack had listed 150k as being in stock when in fact there were none. No biggie, went with 220k instead. I do have some 47k & 100k on hand and thought about wiring them in series, but room was too precious for that stunt. I'm quite satisfied with these and really see no reason to change them - for now.
Overall the wiring was pretty straight forward but there are a few things I'd do slightly different if I did it on another guitar. First time jobs always seem to reveal the "oops" parts only after you get to them. Two of those things being the jack and three way switch. It became apparent when trying to wedge all this into the control pocket that having those parts pre-wired and installed with pigtails on the switches (like the pickup wires on the micro toggles) would have been the way to go. The heavier lead wires could have then been tucked neatly along the edges and perhaps some hot-melt glue used to hold them in place. Allowing, of course, enough slack on the ends for the final assembly. Something to chew on for the next project at the very least.
The 4PDT switches were a touch on the short side (shaft) and need to have a relief cut in the control cavity. I simply used a 3/8" Forstner bit and just crept up on the depth until the nut on the face side sat about flush with the top of the shaft. I suspect on some guitars that one might have to use a much larger bit to get the entire switch to set into the recess. My particular Epi was thin enough where I only need to allow clearance for the base of the shaft to switch shoulder. Oh, I sort of checked the top thickness when I drilled the tiny pilot hole by using a piece of wire and then pinching it off (face side) when it just touched my finger (cavity). Then held the wire to shaft to see roughly how much needed to go. I think if I were to measure that it would be approximately 1/4" as it wasn't very much.
The range of tones from this is impressive to say the least. Have a feeling it will take many days of tinkering to find them all and decide which works for me. I have a few pictures taken at various stages here.
Big thanks goes to the guys that dreamed this up!
PS: mods - if this is in the wrong area could you please move to appropriate location.