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Post by mrtelecaster on May 17, 2011 20:27:04 GMT -5
Looking for a wiring diagram for a Fender Deluxe Nashville Telecaster. I am wanting to install a push pull pot on the volume that will turn on both neck and bridge pickup at same time.
Nashville Teles come with 3 pickups like a strat, and 5 way switch. So you get the normal 1-5 switching of a strat, thus eliminating the combination of neck/bridge, which is very useful on a tele. Anyone got a diagram for that. Fender website used to have it, but cannot find anything there now.
Thanks
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Post by newey on May 17, 2011 21:11:00 GMT -5
mrtelecaster-
Sorry I had to move your thread, as the schematics section is not for general questions. That's OK, we give new members a pass on that sort of thing.
Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!
There are several ways to accomplish the Tele N+Br setting with a 5-way switch.
You requested:
I read you to want this Push/Pull to override the 5-way switch, such that, pulling the knob up gives N + Br regardless of the position of the 5-way switch. Am I correct on this?
Other options are:
Use the P/P to turn the bridge (or neck, your choice) on in conjunction with the 5-way switch. This can give N + Br by putting the 5-way on "neck only" and then pulling the p/p up to add the bridge. It also gives you all three pickups in positions 2 and 4. The downside is that two operations are required to get the N + Br instead of just one.
Or, there are other schemes that would use the tone control to add the bridge (or neck, again, depending on your choice). You can also rewire the 5-way switch to give N + Br at position 2, although you will lose M + Br and your other 5-way positions will be different.
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Post by mrtelecaster on May 17, 2011 21:22:33 GMT -5
yeah the mod I'm looking for is to use the push pull pot as an on off for either the bridge or neck. For example, switching the bridge pickup on with the normal blade switch and then pulling up the push pull to switch on the neck pickup. or vice versa either way would be fine. Part of the charm/sound of the tele is the middle position so both are on at the same time. But I also like the versatility of being able to get the strat quack too.
Thanks
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Post by newey on May 17, 2011 21:32:22 GMT -5
Well, I assumed wrong, then. I've got a neck-on diagram around here somewhere, let me dig it out. If you decide you'd rather have the P/P override the 5-way, this will do it- one pull gives N + Br: This will go in between the connection from the 5-way switch to the volume pot. The N and Br hots would be jumpered over to the P/P from their respective lugs on the 5-way, no need to disconnect 'em.
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Post by newey on May 17, 2011 21:46:35 GMT -5
OK, here's the Neck On switch: This would be wired between the neck "hot" and the neck lug on the 5-way switch. The rest of the 5-way is wired normally, including its connection to the Vol. pot. I'm saying "the neck lug on the 5-way" to avoid speaking of "Position 5" or "Lug 3", since people number them differently. (I usually call the neck "5" and the Bridge "1".)
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Post by sumgai on May 18, 2011 2:39:43 GMT -5
Part A:mrtelecaster, Hi, and to the NutzHouse! We'll deal with you in a moment, but first.... ~!~!!~!~ Part B:newey, Even though all Push/Pull pots come with DPDT switches, we don't need to use both poles for this job. (Witness Chris's original diagram.) And since there's no need to interrupt the connection between the Neck and the 5-way selector switch, you can safely eliminate that particular wire. Additionally, you've introduced a "second point" of potential failure - you require that both poles of the switch be used, with the jumper (at the bottom). Given the above statement in ¶1, you can hook up the switch as a simple SPST, reducing the points of possible failure to the minimum. Albeit, using a jumper on both commons as well as the lower lugs introduces redundancy of the good kind - a failure of one pole will not disrupt the desired functionality. It's not likely that both poles will go South at the same time, barring a freak visit from our esteemed friend Mr. Murphy. ~!~!~!~ Part A, redux:Now back to our New Guy, mrtelecaster, This has always been a good starting mod for most 3-pickup guitars - easy, rarely costs more than a Starbucks cuppa, and gives at least two 'new' sounds. But in your case, there's another possibility. If'n yer interested, that is...... The so-called Fender S-1 switch is a push-push switch built into the volume control. It happens that Fender used this switch on Teles as well as Strats (not to mention both basses), so there's a corresponding knob set for the control that will look like the stock knurled chrome knobs you've already got. I've got the Strat version of this thing, and I can tell you, even with your knobs (versus the slightly tapered Strat ones), there's no comparison in using it - you push it, the job's done. You push it again, the job's still done - - no "hooking" your finger around the knob, trying to pull it out. No stopping your Mad Monster pick attack to use both thumb and fingers to pull it out. In short, the S-1 is the answer to most player's prayers. The sad thing is, of course, that Fender never introduced this particular part to the 'aftermarket' for players to purchase as updates (read: Nutz modifications) for their guitars. They can be sometimes be found on eBay, or elsewhere if you decide to go this route. I know I would, just from the usability standpoint, as well as keeping the stock appearance. But no matter how you control it, the total of 7 tones (7 different pickup combos) will be a nice weapon in your arsenal. HTH sumgai
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Post by lpf3 on May 18, 2011 3:28:20 GMT -5
mrtelecaster, This has always been a good starting mod for most 3-pickup guitars - easy, rarely costs more than a Starbucks cuppa, and gives at least two 'new' sounds. But in your case, there's another possibility. If'n yer interested, that is...... The so-called Fender S-1 switch is a push-push switch built into the volume control. It happens that Fender used this switch on Teles as well as Strats (not to mention both basses), so there's a corresponding knob set for the control that will look like the stock knurled chrome knobs you've already got. I've got the Strat version of this thing, and I can tell you, even with your knobs (versus the slightly tapered Strat ones), there's no comparison in using it - you push it, the job's done. You push it again, the job's still done - - no "hooking" your finger around the knob, trying to pull it out. No stopping your Mad Monster pick attack to use both thumb and fingers to pull it out. In short, the S-1 is the answer to most player's prayers. The sad thing is, of course, that Fender never introduced this particular part to the 'aftermarket' for players to purchase as updates (read: Nutz modifications) for their guitars. They can be sometimes be found on eBay, or elsewhere if you decide to go this route. I know I would, just from the usability standpoint, as well as keeping the stock appearance. sumgai Brand W does carry the next best thing to the Fender pot- its a push/push pot that does the same thing. While with the Fender part just the top of the knob moves up and down- with the Warmoth pot the whole knob moves. Just like a push pull but as you say - push once, job's done; push again job's still done. They also have a 500K version. I use these whenever I want a switchable pot- as I find the push/pull too fiddly. The push/ push makes shifting on the fly a breeze. The only thing I don't like about it is minor- I like a firm action on my controls and this one seems a bit loose to me. Just takes a little gettin' used to, but still........ -lpf3
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Post by JFrankParnell on May 18, 2011 10:46:19 GMT -5
sumgai and lpf3, does either the s1 or the pushpush switch stay 'down' when you push it? That is, is there a visual indication of the state that it's in?
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Post by newey on May 18, 2011 11:13:06 GMT -5
True. I'm usually happy when my diagrams will work as predicted, but this could certainly be done more elegantly than I show it.
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Post by thetragichero on May 18, 2011 11:55:05 GMT -5
That's OK, we give new members a pass on that sort of thing. thank gauss, since you had to do this several times when i first started coming `round these parts! sumgai and lpf3, does either the s1 or the pushpush switch stay 'down' when you push it? That is, is there a visual indication of the state that it's in? these look like the ones i have on my bass, in which case no you do not
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santellan
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Post by santellan on May 18, 2011 13:44:17 GMT -5
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Post by lpf3 on May 18, 2011 18:14:54 GMT -5
sumgai and lpf3, does either the s1 or the pushpush switch stay 'down' when you push it? That is, is there a visual indication of the state that it's in? jfrank- I've only played the s1 switch once and don't remember what it did but the push/push pot is visibly down or up. It has about the same travel as a push/pull so you can clearly see the difference, so, yes push down & you can see that it's down - push again & it comes back up - you can see that it's up. That Toneshaper sure looks interesting- all in a nice tidy package, too......... -lpf3
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Post by sumgai on May 19, 2011 2:00:18 GMT -5
JFrank,
In constrast to the Brand W pot, the center of the Fender knob is what get's depressed (so obviously it's a two-part knob assembly). But that creates an obvious 'ridge', so you can tell which way the switch is currently set both by touch and by eyeball.
The other difference between the two is the Warmoth unit it DPDT, more or less standard for this application. Fender's S-1, OTOH, is a 4PDT, opening up a lot of options for advanced Nutz experiments......
HTH
sumgai
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