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Post by axekicker on Oct 6, 2011 1:26:32 GMT -5
I have a blade switch with only 7 lugs, and for the life of me, I can't find a single diagram of a 7 lug switch. Only 8-lug diagrams exist. I no longer have any idea which lugs do what. I'm trying to wire an HSS with a DPDT series/parallel, 1 vol, 2 tones. I've got the HB working and the DPDT. But I can't figure out which lug is supposed to take the singles? The only lug that produces sound is the lug I've got the HB hooked up to. Also, I'm guessing the volume pot and the tones also need to go to the switch. Has anyone got a wiring diagram (not a schematic, I can't read those) that might help me with this? I've already spend WAY too much time on it, and although I have a multimeter, I'm not sure I know how to read it for something like this, either. I mean, I get a reading from anything metal that I touch the contacts to, including my pliers, so I'm probably screwing that up as well. This is so embarrassing. Thanks!
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 6, 2011 1:55:36 GMT -5
We've seen these before. There's probably something in Reference about it, but I'm not gonna go look right now.
Most often, I think, the two "commons" are internally tied together and presented as a single lug. I swear that I've heard tell of at least one where the manufacturer left off the "spare" lug on the tone control side of the switch. Neither of these should impact what you're trying to do, but you do need to know which lug is which.
The test is easy with a multimeter. To explain it, though, it would be easier to know for sure how the switch is laid out. A photo would be the easy way to answer it. Is it 7 lugs in a line (import config)? Is it more like a standard switch with two sets of lugs? Is it one of those with the circle of lugs on the side?
The test is simple
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Post by newey on Oct 6, 2011 5:20:24 GMT -5
Ash is right, a picture will be worth a thousand words here.
Normally (a word to be used advisedly with these Asian lever switches!), if the 7 lugs are all in a row, they would be numbered:
3-2-1-COM-3-2-1
Where the center lug is common. But variations are out there, so testing it with a multimeter is highly advisable before wiring it up.
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Post by axekicker on Oct 6, 2011 21:23:28 GMT -5
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Post by axekicker on Oct 6, 2011 21:35:13 GMT -5
We've seen these before. There's probably something in Reference about it, but I'm not gonna go look right now. Most often, I think, the two "commons" are internally tied together and presented as a single lug. I swear that I've heard tell of at least one where the manufacturer left off the "spare" lug on the tone control side of the switch. Neither of these should impact what you're trying to do, but you do need to know which lug is which. The test is easy with a multimeter. To explain it, though, it would be easier to know for sure how the switch is laid out. A photo would be the easy way to answer it. Is it 7 lugs in a line (import config)? Is it more like a standard switch with two sets of lugs? Is it one of those with the circle of lugs on the side? The test is simple Yeah, I've been to all the sites listed in the Reference section, and none of them cover the 7-lug. |
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Post by newey on Oct 6, 2011 22:07:57 GMT -5
YKE made a 7-lugger than was different than the first layout I mentioned. These were std issue in Squiers (and may still be for all I know). A link to a post in the Squier forums about this switch. I mention it as the lugs are apparently numbered 1-7 just as on yours- which may or may not mean anything. www.squier-talk.com/forum/tech-talk/3299-yke-5-way-switch-pinout-affinity-strats.htmlGuy claims the lugs are wired: 1) neck hot 2) middle hot 3) jumpered to #4 4) Commons, wired out to Vol control 5) Neck tone 6) Middle tone 7) Bridge hot If this guy is right about that, it's a strange one. |
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Post by axekicker on Oct 6, 2011 22:12:15 GMT -5
Thanks, Newey... I'll give it a shot. Failing this, I've ordered some 8 lug switches to start from scratch. What I don't get is that this is a German-made Schaller. It's a good switch. Unless it was made in East Germany before the wall came down. Who knows?
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Post by newey on Oct 6, 2011 22:52:35 GMT -5
I wouldn't, not without testing it first. Set your multimeter to read resistance and measure from each lug to every other lug in all switch positions (this is easier than it sounds) and chart your results.
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Post by axekicker on Oct 7, 2011 13:19:16 GMT -5
OK, I'll report back. Stay tuned.
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Post by axekicker on Oct 7, 2011 17:36:35 GMT -5
Ok, according to my multimeter, lugs 1 and 2 measure 5K and lug six measures 11k. There rest show nothing. What does it mean?
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Post by gumbo on Oct 9, 2011 3:58:15 GMT -5
...you need to go through the resistance test in all positions of the switch....  ...you will end up with a list of readings that will hopefully show you which lug connects to which ...but first you've got to attempt to find the common...so check lug 1 against lug 2, 1 against 3, 1 against 4, etc...then work your way through..2 against 3, 2 against 4, etc.... This is what you then repeat for each position of the switch, recording when you get a reading of zero, which means you have found which lug is connected to which lug with the switch in a particular position.... ...at least that's how I do it when i can't figure it out any other way.. ;D HTH |
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 9, 2011 9:12:29 GMT -5
It's best done with the switch out of circuit.
Also, just to be clear, you want to measure from one lug to another, meaning one probe on one lug and the other on the other.
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Post by axekicker on Oct 9, 2011 17:09:27 GMT -5
...you need to go through the resistance test in all positions of the switch.... ...you will end up with a list of readings that will hopefully show you which lug connects to which ...but first you've got to attempt to find the common...so check lug 1 against lug 2, 1 against 3, 1 against 4, etc...then work your way through..2 against 3, 2 against 4, etc.... This is what you then repeat for each position of the switch, recording when you get a reading of zero, which means you have found which lug is connected to which lug with the switch in a particular position.... ...at least that's how I do it when i can't figure it out any other way.. ;D HTH Oh. That's embarrassing.  Thanks for the info. I'll try it that way. I assume that when the switch is in the bridge position, the corresponding lug is the one furthest away? |
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Post by axekicker on Oct 9, 2011 17:11:30 GMT -5
It's best done with the switch out of circuit. Also, just to be clear, you want to measure from one lug to another, meaning one probe on one lug and the other on the other. Didn't know that. I thought one was supposed to go to ground. Hmm. I think I know what I'm supposed to do. I'll try it. Jeez. Instead of trial & error, I'm doing things by error & error. |
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Thanks for the info. I'll try it that way. I assume that when the switch is in the bridge position, the corresponding lug is the one furthest away?