|
Post by morbe on Nov 29, 2011 8:54:05 GMT -5
About 5 months ago i purchased an ibanez artcore af75, when i bought it it got a courtesy restrung with size 10's, DR blues strings. Not sure if these are just your run of the mill strings but the "A" string wounding is comming off at the 2nd fret. I play my guitars all the time but never was forced to replace strings due to faulty craftmanship. Strings on my guitars last almost a year before i replace them due to just simple loss of tone. Am i being too anal retentive here? I know changing strings is like changing the oil in a car, you can never do it too often. But back to my question. How long should a decent pair of strings last on a guitar? And is there a good set of strings out there that are made specific for hollowbodies? Thanks im new to the hollowbody world.
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on Nov 29, 2011 10:11:45 GMT -5
String choices are like cigars and women...everyone has an opinion...
As a recommendation, I would suggest flatwound strings for a hollowbody, or semi-hollowbody guitar.
As far as string life...this depends on many different factors, body chemistry and how OCD you happen to be. Typically, anytime you go into a studio, or at least once every 30 days is normal for guitar string replacement. Can you go longer? Sure.
What I would suggest is watch the tuning stability and overall tonality of the string. If they become difficult to keep in tune, or just sound dead, or present intonation issues, then change the strings.
Another recommendation I would make is to wander over to Webstrings and try their strings. The prices might lead you believe their strings are garbage, but I would have to say this is not the case from my experience.
It's also a good way to keep fresh strings on a guitar for very little money. It's also a cheap way to try out the flatwounds and see how you like them. I use flatwounds on all of my guitars and basses, but that's just me.
As far as why your string self-destructed so soon...could be a lot of things. Improper installation, playing style, factory defects, damage to the string from a ding or fall...sun spots...the 1%...hard to say definitively.
Hope this helps.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Nov 29, 2011 11:41:15 GMT -5
Thanks for the info, i think i got that webstrings site from you.a while back. Any one know what strings John Lennon put on his epiphone casino? I should really take your advise and change my string more often i just ...... Well..:... I really have no excuse.
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Nov 29, 2011 16:06:05 GMT -5
I just ended up getting regular wound, but i got ernie ball coated slinky's suposedly they're made diffrently from your normal coated strings. Im going to get a few sets of strings from webstrings. If what they say on their website is fact. It just makes sense. I do have 2 more questions though
I didnt take guitar playing seriously untill about 4 years ago. And i wasnt alive in the 60s. But im sure that there wasnt 100 brands to choose from like there is today...........was there? I mean what brands did all you old tymers pave the way with?
Secondly, i read through (and i say this jokingly) extensive web research that you shouldnt put any thing heavier than 10's on a hollowbody or it might damage the body. And if this is true are flatwound strings sizes off from round string? I will explain, are 11 flatwounds equal to 10 rounded strings? I looked for 10's in flatwound and there was none even on webstrings they start at 11's. And will i loose all top end highs with flatwound? Sorry i know its more than 2 questions.
|
|
|
Post by thetragichero on Nov 29, 2011 19:12:50 GMT -5
my 65 guild freshman has had 11s on it for the past four years or so to no ill effect (including a fall tour in an unairconditioned suv going from nj to fl and back, and another move from nj to fl) i'm a ghs man and like their nickle rockers... especially the eric johnson set of 11s (although i've never heard any of his music... but the guages in that set work perfectly for my fingers) they're semi-flatwounds
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on Nov 29, 2011 20:30:16 GMT -5
Old timers...thanks... Actually, we just looked for road kill, gutted it, stretched it and dried it in the sun...
And I wouldn't go much higher then 11's on a semi-hollow body. I found that 10s were the most popular size over the years for these types of guitars. Most modern hollow and semi-hollow guitars are built much better then the guitars prior to the 1950's, so they should be able to take the heavier string gauges. One thing you have to consider is that a heavy set of strings is going to be darker on this type of guitar...which tends to be darker by nature.
But if the mood strikes you, I would have no problems putting 11's on that Artcore. Ibanez builds a sturdy instrument, and the Artcore series is a real sleeper in my opinion. Very under-rated and a steal for what you get. Just remember that once you go to a heavier string gauge you'll probably need a new nut to fit the lighter gauge again if you decide to go back...so if you're happy with the 10's then just leave it.
I have flatwound 10s on Project #1, which is a solid body, and they work out well. I've got 13s going on Blue Murder, but that's got a neck like a baseball bat and was built especially for the heavier gauge strings.
And for 30+ years I was just a bass player, so I have no inside information on what the six stringers did back in the day. Myself, I stuck with GHS almost exclusively. Either flatwounds or Brite Flats. I believe the Brite Flats are available for guitars as well. It's a cross between a flatwound and round wound string. A bit more snap without the additional fret\string noise.
And TH...never heard any Eric Johnson? Man...I wouldn't tell too many people or they'll take away your guitar and make you play an accordion...
For reference:
Happy Trails
Cynical One
|
|
|
Post by newey on Nov 29, 2011 22:49:52 GMT -5
Morbe-
First, please downsize that pic of the guitar, it's blowing off my screen.
My hollowbody Univox, 1969 vintage, now gets 0.11 flatwounds. 0.10 flatwounds are available, but are hard to find.
I don't understand that gnashing of teeth over string gauge on semi-hollows or hollow-bodies. My acoustic, and most other acoustics, are more than happy with 13s, and they're not built any stronger or stouter than a hollow-bodied electric.
Back in the '60s, I used to use Fender light gauge, or Gibsons, these were the most readily available at the music stores. The Lights wer e10s, IIRC.
Ernie Ball came along a little later, and we all used the Super Slinkys, and even the .008 Extra Super Slinkys for a while. It was such a thrill being able to bend strings like never before (with my Junior High-sized digits, anyway). But the lack of volume, tone, tuning stability, and frequent breakage sent us all back to heavier gauges over time.
Flatwounds are my favs, for the lack of string noise and the smooth feel, but they are definitely more of a jazz tone, less bright than rounds. But most of my guitars are on the bright side of the spectrum, so it evens out a bit.
I used GHS "Boomers" for a while, but thought they were too bright out of the box, and then went dull too quickly thereafter. Nowadays, I'm trying some different brands, but usually it's D'addarios or Markleys.
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Nov 29, 2011 23:06:36 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. for the advise, I thought the same thing about heavier gauge strings and acoustics guitars compared to hollow-bodies. but with research i found that acoustics will have quite a bit of support, and a semi-hollow has braces along side where the pickups go. But (and I could be wrong) a full hollow-body such as mine has no support? Any how when I purchased it , The guy that was setting it up after I purchased it was the one who told me not to put anything heavier that 10's. but oh well. It's set up for 10's and I do bend the strings in a bluesy kind of way but I'm still pretty easy on the strings has I favor the .60mm Nylon Pick. (don't ask I just prefer them for some reason). But I figure since the guitar was setup with 10's I'll keep 10's on them. I do would like to find a set of flatwound 10's though. Thanks every one.
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on Nov 30, 2011 1:04:08 GMT -5
I stand corrected...newey's right...the flatwound strings on #1 aren't 10's...they're 11s...CRS strikes again... And I found the GHS Brite Flats in your size: GHS Electric Guitar - Brite Flats (Ground Roundwound) Light, Set #710: .010 - .046 I don't know what these sound like on a guitar, but on a fretless bass they are incredible. Happy Trails
|
|
|
Post by thetragichero on Nov 30, 2011 9:39:28 GMT -5
i've used brite flats before on a tele and they sounded great
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Nov 30, 2011 10:07:16 GMT -5
Nice i will need to order a couple of sets! So whats the deal with boiling strings. Ive read if the strings are in decent shape but just loosing tone this trick will restore some of their tone. Really? Guitar string arent that expensive is there more to this myth than i really know?
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Nov 30, 2011 12:42:42 GMT -5
Guitar string arent that expensive is there more to this myth than i really know? Bass strings are much more expensive than guitar strings. I probably wouldn't bother boiling bass strings, but I definitely wouldn't waste a minute on guitar strings. Chance of breaking a guitar string when reattaching, is high.
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Nov 30, 2011 13:25:49 GMT -5
Yes my brother plays a 6 string bass. He keeps those strings on for a while before changes. Sadly he neglects his non bass guitars. Those strings are more often rusted over. There should be a guitar protective services where we can take neglected guitars and put them in foster care.
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Nov 30, 2011 13:45:56 GMT -5
they have the ASPCA for animals. You could create the ASPCG
|
|
|
Post by Yew on Nov 30, 2011 14:17:12 GMT -5
I think the idea with boiling strings is that the buggles that form when boiling, will knock some of the dirt out from between the strings
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Nov 30, 2011 14:32:07 GMT -5
they have the ASPCA for animals. You could create the ASPCG What about PETG People For The Ethical Treament of Guitars
|
|
|
Post by 4real on Nov 30, 2011 18:46:45 GMT -5
It's a bit of a personal preference...the Ibanez is a nice instrument by the way...but of more importance is what you want to play on it, what kind of sound you are after, etc, etc...
...
On mine, I am using 10-56 I believe, a kind of light top, heavy bottom....and electric strings. A traditional acoustic uses acoustic strings, lots of people use wound thirds in the jazz world and that style of play.
What do you play on it? Anything will work.
Remember to adjust intonation and action and all that with any string changes.
As I live by the sea and habitually have my guitars, or some of them out, I actually have the habit of lightly oiling both the fretboard and frets and the strings. This makes things slinky, keeps the fretboard clean and the light oil protects against corrosion from both the environment and sweat. Skin and grime tends not to 'stick' and wipes off with each oil and clean.
The wrapping on the string coming off...bad string, needs replacing by the sound of it.
I've thought about trying some flat or ground wound strings to cut back on finger squeak...not sure though as some of that is part of the character, I do believe they can last a bit longer.
I tried some expensive coated strings, but the coating wore off and shredded on the frets...hmm.
...
But again...it all depends what you want to play and how you want to play the thing.
I use the gauge I do because on my guitar, I need a good solid bass string but I still want to bend strings occasionally. I also finger-pick, so it is a different thing to plectrum stuff, and I use some dropped tunings so I don't want things too loose. This gives if more of an acoustic like 'stiff' feel but the nickel strings keep things bright.
The arch tops are good for all kinds of music and are not just about the 'look'. Think about what you want to play on it and sound, what your technique is and choose strings appropriate for that...sometimes it is good to have something that feels a little 'different' (I tend to use 10-46 on other electrics) and others want something that feels similar from guitar to guitar so as not to need changing technique to suit.
|
|
|
Post by gumbo on Dec 1, 2011 5:20:39 GMT -5
Elixir nanowebs anyone?
|
|
|
Post by 4real on Dec 1, 2011 6:04:15 GMT -5
I've had them twice on my acoustic, they seem to shred on the frets for me, cant tell why...they certainly feel nice when they are new, but who wants bits of what looks like dead skin hanging off your strings...for over 2x the price.
Some people love 'em.
I'm thinking of using d'addarrio 'chromes' flat wound perhaps...of maybe I can find some old 'half ground' strings, do they still make them...just a little of that squeak for character but not too dull.
What makes strings go off tends not to be the 'rust' you know but the constant tension, bending of strings and the wear on the frets that put the intonation right out...gunk in the windings does not help either of course.
...
The arch top has a heap of connotations you know...wes montgomery jazz like sound contrasting with the Pat Metheny reverb wash...duane eddy and the rockabilly crowd like stezer...punk even...hard rock like the "living end" down here or "the cult"...
all those styles need different things...I play mine more like an acoustic I guess, but with a bit of an electric feel, especially in the high strings. I like harmonics so doent want things too dead and a little finger squeak can add character...a flat wound is going to give you more of that 'thud'.
The ibanez series is pretty good and was tempted before I decided to make my own...influenced by one of my teachers that have played one professionally for almost 20 years...Jake Reichbart...
I think he uses about 12-56. He has a fishman archtop piezo mixed in with the mag but it is mostly mag. (A bit slack with all the blue tape on the guitar and electronics hanging off the back of the guitar...but a good sound for the things he does. Certainly an influence on my guitar sound for that electric/acoustic cross over kind of thing....give a percussive edge to things.
But everyone wants something different from their guitar don't hey and the strings should be what gives you the sound you are after and feel right for you...there is no real "arch top strings"
|
|
|
Post by morbe on Dec 1, 2011 8:52:24 GMT -5
I typicaly play classic rock rhythm, some blues. Little leads. But over all its a variety of stuff. I do not play death metal or do any kind of serious shredding on it of course. I'll pull zome leads out with our rendition of johnny b good but when it comes to serious leads this im afraid is about how heavy its gets.
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Dec 1, 2011 13:59:04 GMT -5
But back to my question. How long should a decent pair of strings last on a guitar? It depends on how much care you give them, how heavy handed you are, what you expect your strings to do, and the guitar itself. Even just wiping off your strings with a dry cloth can extend the life of your strings. Clean hands aren't really "clean". You shed skin cells, salt, acids and oils from your fingers. Your strings and fretboard become a chemistry and biology experiment gone bad. Wiping off the "gunk" after each playing session, helps keep things from getting out of hand. And once a week cleaning with ammonia and water or a window cleaning solution can keep things bright and shiny. But if you have a bare wood fretboard, you also need to oil it after cleaning. If you have tall frets and a strong grip with your left hand, you'll put dents in the strings. No amount of cleaning will fix that. So the limiting factor will be how many "actual miles" you put on your strings rather than how many days. Sharp edges on your bridge saddles, might cause your strings to break prematurely, especially if you pick hard. Do you like the springy sound of brand new strings? There was a time when wouldn't settle for anything less. After about 3 days of playing, my strings were ready for the bin. They still had a nice clean tone, but the "gooooing" was mostly gone. Nowadays, I dislike the sound of brand new strings. It takes at least a day of playing before they're "broken in". I have one guitar that has strings that are a few years old. (Yes, years.) I'd guess about 300 actual playing hours. I'm sure it would sound better with some new strings, but it doesn't sound bad. Putting new strings on a gunky fretboard is a bad idea. Every time you fret a note, your string will pick up some of the old gunk. This will dull the tone in moments. You'll spend more time constantly wiping down your strings than playing. Strings are relatively cheap. But taking the time to string them properly is a bit of a bother. (My condolences to those of you with FRs and locking nuts. That bother is more than a bit.) So a little effort to extend the life of your strings is worth it.
|
|
|
Post by 4real on Dec 1, 2011 14:20:16 GMT -5
Well then, normally I used 10-56 and always have for electric and 10-50 on acoustics...but on this fender scale arch top guitar I am using D'Addario "Light Top/Heavy Bottom" EXL140 10,13,17,30,42,52 or 10-52.
This still gives you easy bending on the high strings and good meat and tension in the low strings and could be a good choice. I like that it feels 'different' than my other guitars and a heavier string tends to give a better sound, volume and last a little longer perhaps.
I've had some bad experiences with cheap internet counterfeit strings, so get the real things not a knock off brand or suspect supplier that are too cheap to be true.
I've liked A'ddarrio for a while, but it does no matter too much, find a brand you like, it's subtle but some may be better than others...not being able to buy them out here for a while, I have been using 'Rotosound's for a year or so on the other guitars and really liked them.
...
The Oiling thing can be a good tip and keeps the fretboard protected and the frets nice and shiny and everything feel a little slinky and stops corrosion. Don't add gunk with cooking oil or anything, and nothing that is going to mark the guitar...I've been using this light "cutting oil" sprayed onto a cloth wiped on to the full length of the strings and so the fretboard is 'slick' and immediately wipe off.
It only takes a second and can become something of a 'ritual' of sorts after playing or if you pick up the guitar and the strings feel a bit rough. I tend to do it after a playing session of some length, be sure that you get under the strings and the fretboard, the slight oil will help with fret wear.
Eventually strings die, it's more about stretch than anything I think and a bit of wear at the frets from what I have seen.
Find a good action that suits your style and adjust the intonation well.
...
Sounds like a nice guitar, and I was seriously looking to buy one myself, there are a couple of really nice examples about for sure.
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Dec 2, 2011 10:02:18 GMT -5
Don't add gunk with cooking oil or anything Horror story: I made that mistake for a while, thinking it's good enough to eat, so it must be "healthier". The oil on the board eventually turned rancid. Very stinky and very unhealthy.
|
|