While your post doesn't really pose a question, it would appear from the pictures that this guitar is missing several wires, notably the wire from the volume pot to the output jack, as well as some grounding wires and capacitors for the tone controls.
Assuming your question is "How do I make this work?", it's pretty straightforward if the switches are all wired correctly and the volume and tone controls are the only things needing attention- which is what it appears like from the photos, but it's hard to tell if the switches are in fact wired correctly.
Several questions, right off the bat:
The white wires that are shown in the photo of the cavity appear to be bent backwards out of the cavity. Are these wires from one (or more) of the pickups? If so, which ones?
Are all of the toggle switches 2-position switches?
Are the pickups passive or active? (Active ones will have a battery onboard somewhere, usually a 9V.)
You will definitely need to purchase some capacitors for the tone controls, if you have not already done so. Also, the output jack looks a bit dodgy, you will probably want to test that to be sure it's still good, looks like there's a big blob of solder on there which makes me suspicious.
Did you obtain the guitar in this condition, or was it working at one time and then partially de-wired by you (or by someone you know)?
Look again more closely at that jack.... there are three terminals thereupon. My bet would be that there was some kind of battery-powered circuitry in there at one time, and someone just ripped out the whole thing, without restoring the guitar to at least a playable condition.
Hi, and to the NutzHouse!
As stated by newey, we'll need to know what the switches are, not just what they were supposed to do. Do you happen to have any documentation for that axe? (Or a link to something on the web that might help us....)
After that, you have options - a bunch of them! Do you want to merely restore the thing to the original wiring scheme? Do you want to add switching options, in order to obtain new tones? And that's just the start, we'll keep working with you on these questions until you're happy that the guitar will sound like you want it to.
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Don't worry about the language thing. Your pictures work just fine.
I dug around on Vantage and the best I can find is that they were probably built by Matsumoku. They also built Aria, Westone and Electra, so your guitar has the potential of sounding pretty good once it's wired up.
There might be something close in there...but I wouldn't hold my breath.
Long and short of it is you're going to have to come up with a scheme you like to get it playing again. The available resources for Vantage guitars from the 80's is non-existent from what I can find.
So, what would YOU like it to do? We can sort out the details if you can give us some parameters and guidelines.
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OK, so that clarifies a lot. You originally said that the switches were 3 on/off switches, one for each pickup, and a fourth was a tone pot bypass. Also, a master volume control, and two tone pots.
Did you get that information from the previous owner as well? Since he presumably had the guitar when it was wired as original, I think you should proceed on the assumption that that is correct. Such a scheme is not uncommon, and can certainly be achieved with those components.
If that's what you want it to do, I'm sure we can deliver a wiring scheme to do just that. Such a scheme gives the two "missing" Strat pickup options, namely N + B and N + M + B. It also gives an "all-off" setting, useful for keeping a guitar plugged in and standing by onstage.
We do have to make a few assumptions about the factory wiring in order to proceed, but I think we can make some educated guesses about the original. First, with two tone controls, and with a bridge humbucker, I think one tone control would be dedicated to the bridge pickup, so as to dial that pup in for lead work. The other tone control could have been neck only, or perhaps neck and middle both. (Your choice on that).
And the tone bypass switch, I assume, bypasses the bridge tone control for a brighter lead setting. Although it may have been set up to bypass both tone pots, or even all three pots, I think more logically it would have been for the bridge pickup alone.
Assuming that's how the tone pots are arranged, conventional wisdom would say you'll need a .o22µf capacitor for the single coil(s), and .047µf one for the HB.
Here's my best guess as to the original purposes of the switches and controls, based on what remains of the wiring.
There appears to be a buss along the bottom throws of the first 3 minitoggles. This goes to the CW lug of the volume pot. This suggests to me that the first 3 switches are to enable each of the pickups. Up is on.
There are wires going from the wiper lug of each of the other 2 pots to the poles of the first two switches. This suggests they are tone pots for the neck and middle pickups. The hot wire of the pickups would also connect to the poles of these switches.
The fourth switch is less clear, but likely used to split the HB to single coil mode. There is a black wire going from the back of the last tone pot (ground) to the bottom throw of the switch. The series link of the HB would connect to the pole of the switch.
Understanding the color codes of the HB will require a little work. First we'll need to measure resistance between the Red, Blue, Black, and White wires. There should be about 5000 ohm of resistance between two pairs of two wires. No connection across the pairs.
Once you determine which colors are paired together, we need to determine the polarity of each of the 2 coils of the HB. JohnH has a thread in the Reference Articles section called "Testing phase - The Screwdriver Pull-off Test". This will help determine which wires of the HB need to be connected together and which colors are "hot", relative to the single coil pickups.