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Post by axekicker on Feb 28, 2012 17:46:07 GMT -5
I've read that one should avoid using flux when soldering. Why? When I've used it to anchor claw wires, it tends to work great, making for a nice hard connection. Also, I recently tried using silver flux core to avoid the lead fumes. I think it's working, but I'm sure it's not recommended. Why not? Thanks.
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Post by reTrEaD on Feb 28, 2012 18:48:30 GMT -5
I've read that one should avoid using flux when soldering. Why? Where did you read that? A magazine, e-zine, manufacturers technical publication, governmental publication, or some dipshit talking out of his ass on the internet? What exactly did it say about "avoiding"? Was this to avoid breathing the vapors or to avoid using flux at all. Or was this to avoid using certain types of flux in a particular application? Flux is absolutely necessary in soldering. It reduces existing oxides in the metals you are attempting to solder and inhibits formation of new oxides that would quickly form on the surfaces when heated, before the solder covers them. There are different fluxes available for various soldering applications. But instead of writing a book about the various fluxes, applications, and appropriate warnings, it would make more sense to address the misinformation (or your misinterpretation) of what you have actually read. Sauce, please? Got a link? |
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Post by Teleblooz on Feb 28, 2012 23:24:29 GMT -5
If you're using electronics-grade solder, it's already got rosin flux in it. There should be no need to add any. And for god's sake NEVER use acid flux or acid core solder.
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Post by axekicker on Mar 2, 2012 17:56:24 GMT -5
OK, I'll try to hunt that quote down. I DID read it somewhere and panicked because I've been using extra flux to create rock-hard connections here and there.
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Post by axekicker on Mar 2, 2012 18:00:07 GMT -5
I read it in the Soldering article on this site. The sentence reads, "Never use plumbing solder or flux." I guess I mis-read and put a comma where there wasn't one. He means never use plumbing flux, correct?
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 2, 2012 19:16:28 GMT -5
I read it in the Soldering article on this site. The sentence reads, "Never use plumbing solder or flux." I guess I mis-read and put a comma where there wasn't one. He means never use plumbing flux, correct? Correct. Plumbing solder has a different ratio of lead to tin than solder intended for electronic use. And plumbing solder is either solid wire or acid flux core. Plumbing flux paste is acid based. This is not suitable for electronic use. Rosin flux is used for electronic work. There are now also some "water soluble" fluxes that are suitable for electronic use. |
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Post by axekicker on Mar 10, 2012 15:39:38 GMT -5
I purchased a separate jar of flux from radio shack that seems to create nice shiny joints.
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Post by gumbo on Mar 15, 2012 6:06:54 GMT -5
...and paste flux in a syringe is even EASIER to use and (accurately) apply to small joints...  |
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Post by roadtonever on Mar 15, 2012 7:48:32 GMT -5
Miracoulous things can be achieved with paste flux:
I've never been compelled to use it for guitar wiring though.
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Post by axekicker on Mar 19, 2012 23:43:27 GMT -5
...and paste flux in a syringe is even EASIER to use and (accurately) apply to small joints... Yeah, good idea, I'll do that next time. The jar makes a real mess. I use toothpicks to apply. I remember the first time I used flux to attach a claw wire and it was the first time that A) it worked the first time, and B) looked just like a factory joint. Nobody ever mentions flux in their how-to videos (save for the one below). I guess it's a little trade secret, huh? |
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Post by sumgai on Mar 20, 2012 0:10:13 GMT -5
...... I guess it's a little trade secret, huh? No, we're just used to buying electronics-grade solder with some flux built into it, what we usually call rosin-core solder. Buying a non-core solder is actually not easy, you have to work at it a bit. (Remember, I said 'electronics-grade'.) But it probably doesn't hurt to treat each solder joint as if the brushed-on/syringed-on flux were the only stuff in the joint - any extra flux just goes up in harmless smoke.  Hope that helps. sumgai |
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Post by merseymale on Apr 27, 2012 8:39:01 GMT -5
Maplin Electronic Shops, here in England, told me flux has been BANNED! :-(
this is my 1st post EVER!
I am trying to get a schematic for...
2 HB with VOL & Variable Coil-Tap(instead of TONE pots) for each .
I want a push/pull on 1 'TONE' pot for master series/parallel when 3 way toggle is in center position.
Problem is I need a kinda 'D.I. switch' for the Bridge 'bucker...
By 'D.I. switch' I mean when you pull up the 'tone' knob everything's bypassed & the bridge pickup goes straight to the Jack with no loading.
I'd be great if the D.I. was always un-tapped HB too but IF the tap just HAS to be included if the 'tone' knob's set that way then so be it I suppose.
The frustrating thing about all this is that I honestly can do all these features seperatly but am having difficulty putting 'em all together on the 1 axe! HELP!
Both HBs have 4 core cable
THANKS IN ADVANCE, YOU GUYS!
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Post by reTrEaD on Apr 27, 2012 9:18:33 GMT -5
Maplin Electronic Shops, here in England, told me flux has been BANNED! :-( Probably not as bad as you imagine. I understand there are efforts to eliminate rosin flux, since the chemicals required to remove the residue are less environmentally-friendly. But water soluble flux for electronic soldering is now available. this is my 1st post EVER! No, your first post ever was a few minutes ago, in your own thread: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=wiring&thread=6316&page=1Please do NOT clutter other threads by multiple postings of the same request like this. |
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Post by merseymale on Apr 27, 2012 9:47:45 GMT -5
SORRY I am cluttering I did not know about the way of doing things MY BAD :-(
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