eadgber
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Post by eadgber on May 15, 2012 3:48:16 GMT -5
For the pickguard, I think the Jet King's might be an easy one. I've got a band saw ,so after tracing & maybe a few changes I'll go ahead & drill the screw holes and screw to some plywood. Then just cut very close but not on the line. I'll use the bench top belt/wheel sander maybe a little. Then use some sticky back sandpaper on a block to hand sand the edge & give it a bevel. That seems good to me now but then again I have never worked with any pickguard materiel before so I may be in for some surprise. I might need some of that polishing cloth from Stew-Mac to make it look good though. I don't see even the highest grit wood sandpaper getting a shine on it. I have to order the bigger sheet so I'll have enough for 3 tries. Anyway If I have trouble I'll get over in the Lutherie and Repair & bug ya all there. I know we are off the wiring here. Sorry Ok for once I'm at a loss on the controls, Sorry. Not sure what you were asking. Neck is a 4 wire HB Bridge will be a Mean 90 3 way toggle pup select (LP style) A dual cts pot for dual volumes 1 tone pot 1 on/on/on mini switch for series/tap/parallel My question tonight is: Dose the P90 have anything to do with the on/on/on series/tap/parallel switch I'm looking for? I'm just not sure about what can be done here. I know I won't be tapping a 90 but I'm just not sure how or if the 90 has anything to do with the series/tap/parallel switch. Dose the P90 go straight to the pot no matter what I do with the HB?
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Post by newey on May 15, 2012 5:47:31 GMT -5
Yup. The switch is strictly a module on the HB side of the equation.
If you're doing a dual pot for the volumes (I assume this means a concentric pot), you should get a dual-gang pot (doesn't need to be concentric) for the tone as well. Then the pots can be wired just like on an LP or SG.
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eadgber
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Post by eadgber on May 17, 2012 2:58:33 GMT -5
Yup. The switch is strictly a module on the HB side of the equation. THANKS!! I'm going to make an attempt at a diagram then. I was a little stuck there. If you're doing a dual pot for the volumes (I assume this means a concentric pot), you should get a dual-gang pot (doesn't need to be concentric) for the tone as well. Then the pots can be wired just like on an LP or SG. Holy solder smoke GuitarMan. Why did I not even think about that. I was needing to up the order by a little anyway to get the free shipping. Perfect! This is what I was going to use. CTS-Stacked-Dual-Concentric-Audio-Guitar-Pot-250K500K www.guitarelectronics.com/product/CPCS25/CTS-Stacked-Dual-Concentric-Audio-Guitar-Pot-250K500K.htmlI think the same 250k/500k would be good for tones. Not much free time right now but I'll get a diagram up for you guys to check asap. Thanks
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Post by newey on May 17, 2012 4:39:28 GMT -5
Yes.
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eadgber
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Post by eadgber on Jun 4, 2012 5:55:22 GMT -5
I need checked. I'm waiting on drawing some grounding. Can I get some advice on the grounding? I am thinking I need to add: Tone Gnd - Tone Gnd, Vol Gnd - Vol Gnd, on/on/on to it's Vol Gnd. Should my Input Jack be grounded with the bridge on a Volume pot? My on/on/on switch is backward from normal so I just drew it the way I'll have to do it. THANKS FOR YOUR TIME. Hope I'm not too far off. Sorry about the mspaint!
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Post by reTrEaD on Jun 5, 2012 15:45:32 GMT -5
I'm waiting on drawing some grounding. Can I get some advice on the grounding? Grounding schemes for a guitar aren't as critical as they are in an amplifier. Sometimes it makes more sense to just make the connections in the most convenient way, as long as all the necessary connections are made. That said, I still follow a pattern, whenever it's practical. I like to keep all my signal grounds separate from shielding grounds until the latest point in the circuit, generally the output jack. Or just before the shielded cable that goes to the output jack. So all the lugs on the left side of your pots would connect together. But the back of the pots would connect together with separate wires. Included with the back of pot wiring would be the bare ground wires from pickups, bridge ground, cavity shielding ground, and wires to the case of any switches. Joining the signal ground and shielding ground at the output jack isn't always practical. So often, the back of one of the pots is where the two ground systems are joined together. Basically, reason out what you need to accomplish and what you have to work with.
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eadgber
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Post by eadgber on Jun 6, 2012 4:59:59 GMT -5
Thanks pÉƎᴚ⊥Çá´š . Yeah I've done some amp modding & you gotta watch those ground loops & even watch how close two wires run next to each other. I never finished the diagram above but if I was to right now then this is what I'd draw. * The GND coming off the on/on/on (PU's GND & start) would go to the back of the neck HB's vol pot. * A GND from the back of HB's vol pot to the input jack. * The string bridge wire also going to the back of HB's vol pot. * GND the backs of the neck pup pots to the bridge pots. Vol-Vol Tone-Tone Not sure I'm doing it perfect that way, but I know everything will be on a GND. I'll have a p90 it this so kinda worried about my grounding. I'm going to use dual concentric pots for this too. I have never worked with them so kind of worried . One dual pot all Neck & one all bridge. Very very very very very humbly yours eadgber !!
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Post by newey on Jun 6, 2012 6:00:09 GMT -5
If you were using separate pots, this wouldn't work. Since only the vol. pot is connected to the - of the output jack, the tones wouldn't be grounded.
But since you're using concentric pots, it will work- but is superfluous. Concentric pots have only a single shell, so you just need one wire from one to the other.
We have had pages of debate over ground loops and whether they really matter or not in a guitar. The consensus is "maybe they do, in a particularly noisy electric environment". But your best defense against noise from the P90s is shielding moreso than worrying about grounding.
If you shield it, I find it to be "tidier" to use a post into the side of the cavity as a grounding point. Plus, that avoids having to solder to the back of the pots. If you have a lot of grounds to collect, the post can also become more like a grounding buss- I've used straightened paper clips to make one in the past.
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