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Post by jewellworks on May 6, 2012 10:52:30 GMT -5
im having a hard time with a very simple concept.
i want to integrate a bass cut switch (instead of a roll off, with a pot) on a push pull dpdt i have under the volume pot of my Tele. i want it to be an overall cut. -not just a specific pickup. its wired for a phase now, but i dont like it. i think a simple bass cut (much like the roll off on the Reverend guitars) would be more effective. so correct me where im wrong please...
when using a pot, the point of increasing the resistance in the signal is to force the "hot" to run through the cap, rather than thru the pot. the more that runs thru the cap, the more it filters. -correct?
so on a switch, all i need to do is pass it thru a cap, and i dont even need a resistor, -just the correct value cap. correct???
ive tried small value caps, in series with the hot, (.002, .001 .00082mf) and all it seems to do is lower the output... huh???
what am i doing wrong?
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Post by reTrEaD on May 6, 2012 11:29:58 GMT -5
so on a switch, all i need to do is pass it thru a cap, and i dont even need a resistor, -just the correct value cap. correct??? ive tried small value caps, in series with the hot, (.002, .001 .00082mf) and all it seems to do is lower the output... huh??? what am i doing wrong? Bass cut on a guitar is harder to achieve than treble cut. You need more than just a capacitor in series. You need a resistor in parallel, AFTER the capacitor. If you put the cap after the volume control, you will get much less bass-cut effect before the volume drops off. The cable capacitance and the series capacitor will form a voltage divider. If you put the cap before the volume control, the parallel resistance of the volume control will help in cutting the bass more than the mid and treble. You might even want to switch in an added resistance to ground in parallel with the volume control when you activate bass cut switch. Maybe 250k or so. But you're still going to lose some volume in the process, because of the cable capacitance. Using a short, low-capacitance cable will help. But expect to lose some volume with a passive bass-cut.
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Post by jewellworks on May 6, 2012 12:47:24 GMT -5
so... out of the 3way switch, through the cap, to the volume pot in. but add in a 250k resistor to ground, after the cap.
then -if it works- put it on a DPDT, and viola! -right?
all im trying to do is replicate the Reverend rolloff pot. ive seen diagrams for G&L versions of the same, but i thought id keep it "simple" by putting it on a DPDT, in full rolloff mode.
still good with .001mf cap?
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Post by jewellworks on May 6, 2012 14:02:43 GMT -5
i moved my "in" point to after the switch, rather than after the volume. when wired as described above, thru the DPDT, using a .0033mf cap and a 250K resistor to ground, after the cap, before the volume sounds frigin great! i knew someone here would know the answer! thanx!!!!
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Post by dannyhill on Jul 13, 2012 4:25:40 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I'm working on an archtop and have the strangle cap AFTER the 3 way toggle before the jack. I wired the resistor before the cap and to the ground, but it still pops. I have also always had a bassy boomy noise at mid to high gain. Should the resistor be connected to the cap and to ground AFTER the cap, i.e. on the side connected to the jack? Would that get rid of some of that bassy boomy noise? Thanks!
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