1968 Martin D-35 Binding

[cheezor]

My neighbor has a 1968 Martin D-35 (if memory serves correct). He has a piece of the neck binding missing, about an inch and a half. Anyways, when I was over there tonight I measured it with his tape measure and it looked like it was 1/8 inch by 1/16 inch. So I was going to order some and I got home and looked on stewmac.com, but none of the sizes seemed right. Can anyone confirm the size of the binding that I have to get? Or tell me a better supplier for the binding.

Thanks!

[cynical1]

Binding is sold in stock sizes. Rarely do they match up to what you find on your instrument. Long and short of it is you're always going to have to trim the binding to size. For example, here's the chart from LMII:



You can research what they have to offer, plastic, wood, etc...at the LMII site.

Installing binding on a new guitar takes some practice, and the job becomes exponentially more complicated if you're trying to match existing binding. To start with you'll have to replicate the existing profile\configuration, along with blending the finish over the repair...which can be tricky. Especially since the guitar in question sounds like a 44 year old Martin. You have the color change in the original binding coupled with the "aging" or yellowing of the original finish over time.

You also want to inspect for other potential physical damage before you install the new binding. Although it might have, binding rarely comes off for the sport of it.

A picture would also help.

Happy Trails

Cynical One

[cheezor]

The owner is not worried about matching the binding as far as aging goes. The end of the first fret is sticking out because the binding is missing and it can poke his hand. Thats the only reason that he wants to fix it.

I have seen the guitar a couple times, but it is not in my possession. I can take pictures of it when I get it, but I wanted to get the binding on order for him.

I see that they have Balderon and ABS for white binding. Anyone know the difference? StewMac only has ABS. The owner doesn't care at all, but I would like to match the original material at least.

[cynical1]

Boltaron is just a trade name, as far as I know, and it's just ABS\PVC binding. They get a leg up because that's the type of binding Martin traditionally uses.

One thing to consider is that any ABS\PVC binding is going to be tricky to get the lacquer to adhere well. Roughing it up helps.

Ivoroid binding is another option, although the color tends to turn some people off...in other words, their white ain't white in any known universe...

As long as the owner only wants a functional repair, versus a seamless repair, either one will do the job. Aging the lacquer will give you a better color match on an older instrument, but that will take weeks to accomplish. You can do this with any non-catalyst lacquer by just leaving it in a clear container in direct sunlight. Over time the lacquer will "age" or darken. Two to four weeks is usually the time frame as after 4 weeks it ain't gonna get much darker anyway. This process has no other effects on the lacquer as long as the container is air tight.

For the few bucks it costs, the glue they sell specifically for binding will make the job easier...albeit providing you with a probable lifetime supply of said glue...

Happy Trails

Cynical One

[cheezor]

So Im finally getting around to working on this guitar and there is a chunk of the binding on the side of the body of the guitar that broke off years ago, but the piece has a nice crease in the middle of it and its split on the back half where it bent. If I try to bend it back Im assuming it will snap. It seems pretty brittle. Is there a way that I can heat this thing up to bend it back? I have read about binding catching on fire when you heat it up too much. Would something like steaming it work? See the included image of the piece in question.


Thanks for all your help!

[cynical1]

Binding, being plastic, can burn if heated to the extreme, or if introduced to an open flame. It can also melt and distort if a heat gun is used.

I found the best results with a common hair dryer. All you're looking to do is make it more pliable to make the bends on a guitar body.

I wouldn't hold out much hope on salvaging the small piece of binding in the photograph. The damage has already been done and for the amount of work you're going to invest in saving it a new piece can be cut and fit.

One trick you might want to try is to use acetone on a Q-Tip. Certain binding will "melt" just enough to re-bond without melting away or distorting. This is a common trick for making seams invisible on a repair or around the horn on an extreme cutaway. There is a learning curve here, and different bindings react differently to the acetone, but once you get the hang of it you can make repairs and sharp angles look seamless.

If the guitar has been finished with lacquer be VERY CAREFUL with the acetone around the lacquer as the primary component in lacquer stripper is acetone.

Happy Trails

Cynical One

[cheezor]

Thanks, I tried my heater and that did the trick. I appreciate all the advice!