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Post by ijustwannastrat on Aug 3, 2012 14:24:28 GMT -5
It's been a while since I last fired up the ol' soldering iron, so I figured I would talk it out before I wire something I don't care much for.
So, my stratobaster is currently getting some poly sloshed on it, so I figured I would think about how I want the poor castard wired up.
I know that I don't care much for single coil bridge puppies, so I threw that against the fridge. I'm looking at a mid and neck pup set up right now, and most likely in series. What I would want to do is have a volume, tone, and a switch to change between Mid and Mid/Neck.
What do you guys think? Given the constraints of 2 single coils, 2 pots, and a toggle switch (I'm voiding the blade switch this go around), how would you want your guitar wired up? My only other thought is to be switchable between series and parallel, but I don't know.
The goal of this guitar is to be mellow. I have a ghost tech system in it for acoustic, and anything done electric is going to be sans-OD.
Pictures will be up once I learn to use this new phone.
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 3, 2012 15:37:44 GMT -5
Rather then toss in a switch to select your pickups, why not wire it like a Jazz bass, in that there is no switch, you just use the volume control for each pickup to blend them together, or dial them out. The advantage to this is that as long as you have one volume at around 3, and one pickup is RWRP, it'll be hum cancelling. You can lean it one way or the other.
The series parallel option is probably the most useful, IMHO. With a push/pull or another toggle you could also work in an out of phase option.
HTC1
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Post by newey on Aug 3, 2012 18:03:03 GMT -5
Another option (in addition to Cyn1's, which is a good one) would be to use two P/P pots to do binary tree wiring for the two pickups. You get 4 choices from 2 switches- series, parallel, and each pup individually, with no extra holes.
I have my P-bass clone wired this way and like it a lot. Switching from series to parallel, however, means manipulating both P/Ps, so perhaps better suited to studio use. But I quickly got used to the switching.
A third pot could be use for a phase switch, with another P/P, if desired.
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Post by sumgai on Aug 3, 2012 19:30:19 GMT -5
wanner,
Un-void that blade switch..... you can have each pup individually at the two ends, and in between you can have ser, par and SooP*, in any order you wish. Presto! no more extra switching, it's all in one place ;D
HTH
sumgai
* Or you could replace Soop with Poop, if you wish.... your call.
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Post by gumbo on Aug 4, 2012 1:06:04 GMT -5
* Or you could replace Soop with Poop, if you wish.... your call. ....but beware, it makes a mess of the tablecloth if you spill some...
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Post by ijustwannastrat on Aug 4, 2012 13:07:22 GMT -5
Newey, that idea sounds wonderful. 3 p/p's, 2 vol and 1 tone, binary switching. Might look a little cluttered with the additional pot and switch for the ghost, but meh.
Btw, have you been in Minnesota lately? I could have sworn I saw you at a gas station, but without boxers, a guitar, and lots of snow, I couldn't be sure...
Of course, sumgai has an excellent point with the blade switch. Easier switching, but hmm. My plan to streamline my controls may be backfiring.
C1, whIle on paper I love your idea, I've tried it before, and simply can't dig it.
Gumbo, do you regularly spill soop while eating? Or do we have bigger issues to discuss with you?
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Post by ashcatlt on Aug 4, 2012 14:09:27 GMT -5
I kind of dig the way that my baritone goes from HB to split through a couple of broadbucker settings. I used rotary switches, but I think you might be able to do something close with the right pot/cap combo. If you were real careful you might even get it to where there isn't any meaningful tonal contribution from the bypassed coil, but it would still at least partially cancel the 60Hz hum fundamental.
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Post by gumbo on Aug 5, 2012 8:44:41 GMT -5
Gumbo, do you regularly spill soop while eating? Or do we have bigger issues to discuss with you? ...probably both, but let's not get into that just now....
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 5, 2012 12:22:30 GMT -5
Not that I consciously intended to drag this thread back on topic...but on the Ghost saddles, are you using the GraphTech Acoustic Simulator board, or just taking the piezo saddle output?
HTC1
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Post by reTrEaD on Aug 5, 2012 16:55:26 GMT -5
C1 brings up an important issue. The switching and controls for the magnetic part of the circuit are dependent on what the piezo section looks like.
If there is a preamp and volume control for the piezo section, that makes any switching between piezo and magnetic less necessary. Since the magnetic section would be 'stacked' in series atop the piezo preamp output, the volume control (for the magnetic section) and the piezo volume would be highly independent of each other. Blend in however much of either as desired.
The question is: What shall we do about switching between the two magnetic pickups?
I like the idea of using a Series/Parallel switch for the Mid and Neck pickups. If one of them is RWRP, both modes would be hum-cancelling. The tone control could be configured to bypass the high frequencies at the neck pickup when in series mode. At full CCW rotation, the mid pickup would contribute all the higher frequencies and the neck would only contribute low frequencies (and hum-canceling). I'd suggest a relatively large cap on the tone control. 100nF or more.
If you like having a highly dulled sound available when the magnetic pickups are in parallel with each other, the tone control could be wired directly across the neck pickup. At full CW you would get the normal parallel combination. At full CCW the large cap would get you a highly dulled tone.
Or the tone control could be wired to only be present when the two magnetic pickups are in series, allowing a blend between true series and what Ash refers to as 'broadbucker'.
But this part of the conversation might be a bit premature. We don't yet know the configuration of the piezo section.
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Post by ijustwannastrat on Aug 6, 2012 1:46:34 GMT -5
Aye, I Am using the ghost preamp, with piezo volume and a switch between piezo/mag/both. Looking deeper, there is also a "dark" switch via pushpull. As time goes on, I may switch from a single jack to outputs for both mag and piezo. Dedends on my needs.
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