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Post by strat80hm on Aug 8, 2013 23:25:50 GMT -5
Thanks. Though i am definitely one of those lazy ones... it s just that you guys convinced me that the lazy route was not the good one here.
Indeed, i like the bridge slightly "up" and the neck slightly angled - as long as the guitar can lie flat on the floor without the headstock having any contact with the floor. Conveniently, this neck pocket comes with that Allen bolt "tilting system", so i dont even need to use any shim.
I do not use that warbling Beck thing, but i pull notes and chords rather, and i set my other strat bridge so that i can go up to a fifth on the G string. I dont think it s extreme, but that is why i was wondering about routing/recessing.
I m going have to install the post-inserts in order to test the vibrato-range and the piezo-saddles contact-quality anyway, and i m wondering: if needed, could i still remove these inserts and put them back while keeping the guitar strong?
Yes, it s just a matter of contact/pressure. They explain that the piezo saddles would not transmit strings vibration beyond a certain angle of pushing the bar.
Pedantry is welcome, as Quality and Devil are in the details right? I noticed early on the utmost care you put into your designs, this is beyond my skills, but this is very inspiring regardless!
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Post by 4real on Aug 9, 2013 2:04:04 GMT -5
Well, it is the onbly way really if you want results, not doing that only ends up costing more and getting less and taking longer in the end...a lot of this stuff you only really get one shot at after all, might as well do the best you can... I dare say my strat would go up a fifth but I doubt the strings would take it to be honest...certainly my khalers can go till all teh strings break and down to the string fall off...more likely stick to the pickup magnets...but not something I do...the 'float' is necessary for teh kind of vibrato I like and the feel... You could take them out, but do not 'twist them out' as this will widen the holes...but honestly, don't do it till you have the guitar working and adjusted as I really don't think it would be an advisable thing to do, certainly not if it is not necessary... To take them out, you need to prise them out using teh bridge screws to grab them and pull 'up' not lever them out. You may need to do that when it comes to 'finishing'...but that is way down the track! Well, thanks...it can be an advantage. But I am not a pro repair guy or anything and have only basic skills and no workshop...being pedantic and taking a lot of time over things, thinking things through and acknowledging what I can and cant do as best I can and working within those limitations is though a skill. ... YOU DO WHAT!!! Don't do that...we are looking at an expensive instrument here and deserves better than that I am sure...get a cheap guitar stand for goodness sake, or make a nice one...my guitar these days, always goes back into it's hard case as I know that eventually it will be knocked or fall over or tripped over or some accident will befall it... Thanks. Though i am definitely one of those lazy ones... it s just that you guys convinced me that the lazy route was not the good one here. Indeed, i like the bridge slightly "up" and the neck slightly angled - as long as the guitar can lie flat on the floor without the headstock having any contact with the floor. Conveniently, this neck pocket comes with that Allen bolt "tilting system", so i dont even need to use any shim. I do not use that warbling Beck thing, but i pull notes and chords rather, and i set my other strat bridge so that i can go up to a fifth on the G string. I dont think it s extreme, but that is why i was wondering about routing/recessing. I m going have to install the post-inserts in order to test the vibrato-range and the piezo-saddles contact-quality anyway, and i m wondering: if needed, could i still remove these inserts and put them back while keeping the guitar strong? Yes, it s just a matter of contact/pressure. They explain that the piezo saddles would not transmit strings vibration beyond a certain angle of pushing the bar. Pedantry is welcome, as Quality and Devil are in the details right? I noticed early on the utmost care you put into your designs, this is beyond my skills, but this is very inspiring regardless!
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Post by strat80hm on Nov 20, 2013 1:55:55 GMT -5
Busy music activities made me disappear from the forum but i always kept the project in mind. Thanks everyone for helping in the process of changing this bridge, really appreciated. Quick update: - did a full set up, the guitar is fantastic, light and bright, very clean sounding, promising. - the out-of-body wiring is made of a Duncan humbucker, the sustainer, the piezo bridge, a pickup switch and a killswitch, plus master volume and tone. I m planning on adding a single coil Lace sensor. - XBridge works fine: the piezo sounds clear and accepts the slented set-up. Along with the locking tuners, it stays in tune pretty well and allow quite a wide action - not as wide as the previous double-locking system, but that was expected trade-off. I ve been experimenting with different setup, locations and wiring for the pickups and sustainer-driver, and more ideas, but this phase probably belongs to another thread. Next: - I m thinking of routing a bit beneath the bridge to allow wider pulls though as i need at least a fourth on the G string. - I might as well have to file along the walls of the cavity to accomodate the wider movement of the bridge. - I m thinking of routing in between the 2 existing pickup for the Lace Sensor, hopefully this wont make the structure too fragile. As always, thoughts welcomed. Thanks
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