andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 2, 2013 17:31:09 GMT -5
Hi there, After a lot of searching I've seen some similar requests to mine, but not quite the same on this forum so hope you don't mind if my first post is a request for help? I have a self-build set neck strat. I know it makes no difference for the wiring, but for completeness, it is routed for a full size humbucker, a single coil and a full size humbucker - HSH. But I will be using 4-wire humbuckers in each position....the middle one being single coil sized. All humbuckers are Dimarzio. The guitar was built for a 5-way strat switch, a volume and 2 tone controls.....but I only ever use the tone to take treble off the bridge pickup, so I want to wire the tone just for that pup and use the spare space for a kill switch. The 5-way switch is planned to work in the 'standard' way eg N, N/M, M, M/B, B (Neck, Middle, Bridge) I definitely want to be able to coil tap and want as much flexibility as possible. With a standard HSH strat I would coil tap the neck HB on the volume control and the bridge HB on the tone control. I'm guessing with 3 humbuckers that I'll have the volume coil tap for the neck and middle pups and the tone coil tap for the bridge pup, but open to suggestions! More trivia....I'm going to use push/push as push/pull I don't find practical 'in the moment'! For the kill switch, what I was planning to buy was this....and not sure if the wiring shown would work with the rest of what I'm trying to achieve? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-Kil...item4d0fa623d3I do hope this makes sense....but please let me know if not! Many thanks for all / any help..... Thanks, Andy PS - In reading the various posts there are various series and parallel out of phase options discussed. If any of those things could easily be added to my request, say by putting in a toggle switch, I'm happy to do that.....there is plenty of room in the guitar cavity.....
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Post by newey on Sept 2, 2013 20:31:05 GMT -5
andtgprs- Hello and Welcome to G-Nuts2! A couple of points: First, the problem with linking to Ebay offerings is that they go away after a while- as yours has done, so we can't see what the switch is. But just about any toggle switch can be used as a kill switch. A simple On-Off toggle will do the trick. It is wired so as to cut the "hot" output right before the output jack, after the V and T controls. You can easily insert a kill switch into any standard Strat diagram to achieve that part of what you want. As for the coil cut switching, you can certainly do the N and M with one switch and the bridge pup with the other. However, coil cuts work better with full-sized HB coils, and the tiny coils in the middle SC-sized HB may not sound like much when split. It's up to you, of course, but you may find that you don't get much output from the split middle pickup. There are a number of options if you add another switch. How "easy" they are to add depends on what you think of as being easy. Adding switches adds complexity, certainly. If you want to add some series options, consider ChrisK's 3 single coils and the "S-none" switch. This does almost the same things as Fender's American Deluxe Strat using the "S-1" switch, but ChrisK's version uses just a regular DPDT switch (which could be a P/P). Although drawn up for a SSS strat, it could be adapted to HBs. Another option (and this may be the "easiest" of all) is to add a switch to turn the neck pickup(or bridge, your choice) "on" in conjunction with the 5-way switch. This adds the parallel options missing from the standard Strat switching: N + B, and N + M + B. With a HSH set-up, the N + B setting gives you a flavor like an LP in the center position.
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 3, 2013 12:07:14 GMT -5
Hi Newey, Thanks for the welcome and the response....a lot of food for thought there. So, your suggestions had me considering my switching choices. Ultimately, on the single coil front, I love the various positions....particuarly the neck, quacky N+M etc. I have a PRS CE24 with 2 x HB, and when in HB mode I do like the N + B selection best.....which plays towards your suggestions. Now I modified the PRS away from its rotary switch as I didn't find I could make selections whilst playing easily enough....but when I did, some of the series / parallel options were nice....unfortunately I don't remember exactly what they were. The Am Deluxe S1 appears to do this: When not in use, the S-1 switch doesn’t affect standard Stratocaster wiring, which is: Position one: bridge pickup only Position two: bridge and middle pickups wired in parallel Position three: middle pickup only Position four: middle and neck pickups wired in paralle lPosition five: neck pickup only The S-1 switch offers five additional pickup wiring options when engaged: Position one: all three pickups wired in series Position two: bridge and middle pickups wired in series Position three: middle and neck pickups wired in series Position four: bridge and neck pickups wired out of phase, with a special tone capacitor Position five: bridge and middle pickups wired in series and out of phase, in parallel with neck pickup So where does that leave my request? The above is interesting but I'm not sure how it would translate in my 3 x HB setup? I guess if I could acheive something like the following it would be great. OPTION 1 Wire the 3 pickups for standard 5 way selector options.....N, N/M, M, M/B, B. Coil tap to have the above but as single coils. Have a way to achieve Neck plus Bridge humbucker (and I guess by the same token, single coil?) option. I think this was your last suggestion? Is there any way to have the tone control only every apply to the bridge pickup?....in practice I never cut treble back off anything but the bridge pickup. OPTION 2 If I'm not going to coil tap the middle pickup (I just hope this wouldn't compromise the N/M single strat sound that I enjoy?), the alternative is to use the push push on the volume to coil tap both the neck and bridge humbuckers.....that then either lets me have use the PP tone pot to acheive N + B.....or to use a mini switch to acheive the N+B and then use the spare switch on the tone for something else funky..... Any suggestions what I could do with this extra switching option to give me the most significant alternative tonal option?.....out of phase type sounds perhaps? Sorry for the ever decreasing circles....this is definitely helping my decision process though!! Cheers, Andy
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Post by JohnH on Sept 3, 2013 15:35:40 GMT -5
The Am Delexrs use a 4p5t superswitch, and also the 4pdt S1 switch. With that much switchery, one would be entitled to expect an optimum selection of sounds, but I see that they still dont offer basic N+B combos. but it is not too hard to arrange this.
Thoughts for your case: Since you are basing it on humbuckers, maybe you dont need extra series sounds. To get tone just with the B pup, you can hardwire the tone pot and cap in series between the wires of the pickup, before the switches. It will also affect position 2 though. If your kill switch is a toggle, there are reasonably common types which are dpdt on, off, momentary. The Momentary position would be good for the staccato effects (assuming thats what the kill switch is for), but then up on position could use the other half of the switch to do Bridge on. That, with your two push push coil cut switches and standard Strat settings, will bring forth a huge variety of very good sounds.
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 3, 2013 16:07:01 GMT -5
The Am Delexrs use a 4p5t superswitch, and also the 4pdt S1 switch. With that much switchery, one would be entitled to expect an optimum selection of sounds, but I see that they still dont offer basic N+B combos. but it is not too hard to arrange this. Thoughts for your case: Since you are basing it on humbuckers, maybe you dont need extra series sounds. To get tone just with the B pup, you can hardwire the tone pot and cap in series between the wires of the pickup, before the switches. It will also affect position 2 though. If your kill switch is a toggle, there are reasonably common types which are dpdt on, off, momentary. The Momentary position would be good for the staccato effects (assuming thats what the kill switch is for), but then up on position could use the other half of the switch to do Bridge on. That, with your two push push coil cut switches and standard Strat settings, will bring forth a huge variety of very good sounds. Hi, The kill switch is just a flat round button push switch which is what I want, so unfortunately can't be used for an additional function. You are absolutely right about it being a momentary switch to use for stacatto effects. Hardwiring the tone for the bridge pickup sounds great....and the fact it would also impact the bridge / middle combination is no problem. So really, the issue is my lack of knowledge in how to turn this into a wiring diagram..... Again, thanks so much for your time. Regards, Andy Ps - the Dimarzio Cruiser middle pickup arrived from the States today. So the line up is the Cruiser for the middle, a Dimarzio Evolution neck model and a Dimarzio Tone Zone for the Bridge Can't wait to get them wired in!
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 6, 2013 14:57:40 GMT -5
Hey guys,
Hope this doesn't come across as nagging, but is anyone able to help me with a wiring layout for my project? I'm dying to get the guitar up together...
Thanks, Andy
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Post by JohnH on Sept 6, 2013 15:43:58 GMT -5
Some questions: Would you rather have a single push/push switch to tap both hbs to singles, using the other to do Bridge on? Or keep the two coil taps as seperate switches, with an extra minitoggle for bridge on?
The issue there is whether you want to have Bridge as a humbucker combined with Neck single, and also, if like me, the go-to sounds are neck single and Bridge Hb, you can set them up and just move between them with the 5 way switch. I would want that, but it needs that extra switch, same amount of wiring however.
Second question, to get the neck and bridge combined sounds, or all three, it needs this bridge-on switch since the 5 way doesnt do that. Its a standard and very simple mod. But theres two ways to do it, one is the 'bridge on' and the other is 'neck on'. The tonal possibilities are the same, but again, it affects what you can pre set and move between on the 5 way. If you do 'bridge on', you can move from bridge to bridge plus neck when you move the 5 way from one end to the other. If you do 'neck on', you can move from bridge plus neck to neck in one move.
Have a think about that, in terms of the way you play. For me, bridge humbucker is always the go-to sound, and everything else is an alternative to it, so I would do 'bridge on', but its a free choice.
J
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 6, 2013 16:59:34 GMT -5
Hi, So many options, but I think the volume push/push to tap both the neck and middle humbuckers (I know it's been suggested the Dimarzio Cruiser may be a bit weak coil tapped, but I'd like to be able to try it) and the tone push/push to tap the bridge humbucker is my first choice. I imagine it would be simple to subsequently change the Cruiser so that it is never tapped? I'd like to do the 'hardware' wiring such that the tone control only impacts the bridge (albeit that it looks like it will also impact the bridge/middle combination) - the main point is that I never need to roll the treble off the neck pickup. I'll have a mini-switch for the bridge on.......well in fact, it may not be that 'mini' - I want something I can clout without thought, mid phrase.... In fact, would the tone control also roll treble off the neck pickup if I were in the neck humbucker position and the 'bridge on switch' were hit? Finally I'd like to wire the momentary, flat button kill switch where the second tone used to be. Does that all make sense? It may not perfect to start with but I can always modify after if I need.....but this sounds like a world of possibilities already, which is fantastic. Do you guys have any recommendations for the manufacturers of the push/push pots and any other hardware? Assuming I can get the stuff in the UK, I don't want to compromise the end result with cheap hardware. Finally, soldering pots....I was always taught that you should heat the metal to a point such that the solder melts to it, rather than melting the solder and hoping it 'grips' the metal target. In my personal experience, the pots seem to cook and the solder is still not interested....any tips? It's a real pity they don't come with an earth lug rather than having to solder to the back of the pot which I find a right royal pain! Cheers, Andy
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Post by newey on Sept 6, 2013 17:50:57 GMT -5
More on this in a bit, ag. But as to soldering to the back of the pots, it is difficult to do, so I never do it. I use a separate grounding point, usually a ring connector screwed into the side of the cavity.
But if you prefer to use the backs of the pots, try roughening up the surface with a bit of sandpaper so as to get better adhesion.
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 6, 2013 18:23:50 GMT -5
More on this in a bit, ag. But as to soldering to the back of the pots, it is difficult to do, so I never do it. I use a separate grounding point, usually a ring connector screwed into the side of the cavity. But if you prefer to use the backs of the pots, try roughening up the surface with a bit of sandpaper so as to get better adhesion. On the guitar build we used the sandpaper but it was only marginally better....for me.... So, you solder to a ring connector and then take a lead from there to the earth on the jack socket? If that would work I would MUCH prefer to do that. I did read something I didn't fully understand a few years back that talked about where earths were with relation to noise on guitar electronics. Back to hand-feeding my poorly greyhound now, bless him!
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Post by newey on Sept 6, 2013 19:40:13 GMT -5
Sorry to hear the hound is doing poorly. Here's a diagram for you, but don't go firing up the ol' iron just yet, let's have it vetted by someone else first. A few points: First, sorry for the spaghetti, it didn't come out as clear as I would have liked, I should have given myself more room to work. We started talking about a Superswitch, and you said you had ordered one, so I drew this with one. But later, you said you wanted the std. Strat selections on the 5-way. You don't really need the Superswitch if the 5 way is going to do just the regular Strat scheme, a std. 5-way would work just as well. As you see, we're only using half of the superswitch as it is. Likewise, the "Bridge On" switch is depicted as a DPDT, since at one point you were talking push/push pots. But if you use a toggle, a SPDT On-On style would work just as well, since once again, we're only using half off the switch. The kill switch I depicted as a SPDT, you may have to fit the scheme to your push button. Some folks will advise that the kill switch, rather than just breaking the "hot output" line, should ground that line instead. The theory is that shorting the output rather than just disconnecting it will be quieter. If your push button has 3 terminals like the one I depicted, you can achieve that by running a ground wire to the third terminal. Part of the reason it looks so cluttered is that I tried to hold to DiMarzio colors throughout. Adding some other colors would have helped visually, but I wanted you to be able to avoid translating colors. EDIT: Also note that I have the opposite coil selected on the middle pickup for the coil cut. This ought to give you hum-cancelling in the coil cut settings N + M and B + M. B + N coil cuts will not be hum-cancelling.
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Post by JohnH on Sept 6, 2013 20:37:00 GMT -5
newey
I think it all works. But Id suggest it is slightly better to move the order of the middle coils so you can shunt to ground instead of to hot.
Kill switch would be better as a shorting out to ground, as you noted, so no noise when pressed. But it might depend on what the actual switch can do, ie does it momentarily connect or disconnect, or has it got enough lugs to do both?
I think the bridge on, would be slightly better to use just two lugs, so the lowest two wires to it move up a lug and B is always connected to the 5 way.
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 7, 2013 13:34:49 GMT -5
Hi Newey, Thanks so much for the diagram. If I understand correctly, the edits are to address John H's comments? Please don't apologise for the diagram - it looks very clear to me and is much appreciated. I will go through it and try to work out what is going on as a learning exercise. Sorry if I confused about the superswitch - I haven't purchased one and hadn't intended to. I don't have it at hand, but my 5 way switch is of the sealed variety and I think it has 8 tags....which I think corresponds to common and 1, 2, 3 for each 'side'. I'm not sure how your superswitch depiction would translate to that? In terms of the different kinds of switches....My volume pot will be push push and has a DPDT switch, the same goes for the tone. linkMy kill switch and toggle for bridge on will both be SPDT. So, I think once I understand how this looks for a standard 5 way, I can get the soldering out. And as a bonus no ground to solder to the pot cases.....just all to a single point - is there a standard metal fixture designed for this? Thanks, Andy
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Post by newey on Sept 7, 2013 22:07:22 GMT -5
No, the edit was just to add the comment about the middle pickup coil. JohnH is suggesting that we (errr . . .you) wire the middle HB "inside out", so as to be able to select the opposite coil (which my version does) but via grounding the unused coil as opposed to shorting the coil out to the output, as I have shown it.
It will work either way, but in theory grounding the coil might be less of a noise producer. Or, you might not notice the difference. But I take John's point, it's about best practices.
I'll redraft to to make JohnH's suggested changes if you need me to do so.
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Post by andygprs on Sept 8, 2013 4:38:29 GMT -5
No, the edit was just to add the comment about the middle pickup coil. JohnH is suggesting that we (errr . . . you) wire the middle HB "inside out", so as to be able to select the opposite coil (which my version does) but via grounding the unused coil as opposed to shorting the coil out to the output, as I have shown it. It will work either way, but in theory grounding the coil might be less of a noise producer. Or, you might not notice the difference. But I take John's point, it's about best practices. I'll redraft to to make JohnH's suggested changes if you need me to do so. Hi Newey, I can't comment on best practice changes as I haven't the pre-requisite knowledge. However, I would really appreciate help with how to wire to my 5 way switch....so if there are any other changes that you agree with, perhaps they could be done at the same time? Not trying to be a bore, but thank you so much once more for your time Cheers, Andy
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Post by andygprs on Sept 8, 2013 6:04:27 GMT -5
PS - I've read so many posts trying to decide but it seems 500k audiolog pots for both tone and volume will be fine.
Any particular strong views on that?
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Post by newey on Sept 8, 2013 6:44:31 GMT -5
Matter of preference really. But that's what I generally use, too.
If the Superswitch isn't part of the program, I'll redo the diagram to show it with your import-style 5-way switch. May be a day or two before I can do so.
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Post by andygprs on Sept 8, 2013 16:24:08 GMT -5
Matter of preference really. But that's what I generally use, too. If the Superswitch isn't part of the program, I'll redo the diagram to show it with your import-style 5-way switch. May be a day or two before I can do so. That's great I have to take the middle pickup rout a bit lower for the Cruiser pickup and wait for the pots to arrive anyhow. So, can I just solder all the earth leads together and then route to the jack connection or can you describe this ring connector I need to run all of my earth connections to? I haven't been able to spot one online....
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Post by newey on Sept 8, 2013 18:18:04 GMT -5
Yes. You can. Are you planning on shielding the cavity? If not, it is possible that you may want to ground the shells of the pots and the body of the switch(es), that can sometimes help with noise, but usually not a big deal if you don't. If the cavity is shielded, these items get grounded through contact with the shielding. You don't need a ring connector, it's just one of many ways to do it. On a guitar with lots of grounds to run, I have also used a paper clip as a grounding buss, or just a screw if there aren't too many wires to solder on. This is a ring connector. Get big ones for use as a grounding point. Sand and clean the metal before soldering to it. You can use the yellow crimp-on connector portion for a couple of the wires, I always back it up with some solder though. The rest just get soldered around the ring, and then the ring is screwed into the side of the cavity to secure everything, and to make contact with the shielding if it is used. I also use a strip of electrical tape over it to avoid any other connections contacting the grounding point and potentially shorting out.
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Post by andygprs on Sept 9, 2013 13:32:26 GMT -5
Thanks. A real noob question. With the dimarzio pickups, if you look at the base plate, the wire bundle leaves from the top right corner if you orientate the pickup so you can read what is written on it. On most guitars (I think) the wiring route is bottom right, if you have the guitar neck vertical, bridge down, strings facing you. It feels like installing the pickup like this it is upside down, simply because the writing is then upside down on the base plate. Is this the correct way to install? Thanks again, Andy
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 10, 2013 4:19:19 GMT -5
Update: So I've done some extra routing and drilling to accommodate the Dimarzio Cruiser and I've direct mounted the pickups into the body - partly cosmetic and partly because the set neck is very deep in the body so standard pickup rings ended up having the pickups too close to the strings for my liking - interfered with picking a bit. The push / push pots are due here today. Hoping to have the old soldering iron in action before long - just waiting for the updated wiring diagram. Excited! Cheers, Andy PS - guide guitar tracks for the first 3 song release for my band Colourflow completed too
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Post by newey on Sept 10, 2013 6:25:34 GMT -5
Is that the Tone Zone or the Evolution?
The Tone Zone is covered, right? So the screw coil goes closer to the neck. On the Evo, since these don't have a screw coil and a slug coil it may be hard to tell, but I would guess the wire comes out of the lower portion rather than the upper. Ultimately, it may depend on where you want the N or S coil to be.
Work intrudes this week so it may be a few days before I can get to your diagram.
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Post by andygprs on Sept 10, 2013 6:37:37 GMT -5
Hi, The tone zone is in the bridge, the evolution in the neck. I've put them in as shown as it just wouldn't make sense for the cable to have to exit the neck end of the humbucker - that would need extra drilling to channel the cables. So currently the cables all come out the bridge end of the pickup pointing towards the control cavity....it has to be right! I've shown with red arrows on the pic.... PS - re the diagram.....could any of your forum members translate the superswitch into a 5-way switch? Cheers, Andy
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Post by andygprs on Sept 10, 2013 11:08:10 GMT -5
Is that the Tone Zone or the Evolution? The Tone Zone is covered, right? So the screw coil goes closer to the neck. On the Evo, since these don't have a screw coil and a slug coil it may be hard to tell, but I would guess the wire comes out of the lower portion rather than the upper. Ultimately, it may depend on where you want the N or S coil to be. Work intrudes this week so it may be a few days before I can get to your diagram. This is what Dimarzio have said - quick response! Hope it is useful to people generally? Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 8:13 AM To: DiMarzio Tech Subject: Pickup orientation Hi there, Sorry if this is a really silly question. I am installing an Evolution neck, Cruiser neck (in the middle position) and ToneZone in the Bridge. For the Evolution and ToneZone, looking at the base plate, with the writing the right way around, the 4-wire cable bundle comes out top right. With my pickup route – I would expect to install the humbucker so that the cable comes out bottom right…..as per the picture below with the red arrows showing where the wires come out. Is this correct? If not, I’d have to do a lot of drilling for the cables. Thanks! Andy Response: The bridge pickup is normally installed as shown in your picture. The neck pickup is normally installed in the opposite direction, but I do not think installing it in your preferred direction will cause any problems with your pickup set. DiMarzio Inc. Me: Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 11:52 AM To: DiMarzio Tech Subject: RE: Pickup orientation Thanks – just to be clear: If we imagine we are looking at the guitar strings facing us, neck vertical, headstock top, bridge bottom. Which corner should the wiring be in for each case? How can you tell what is correct for each pickup? I will be coil tapping etc, so would like to get it right now, and in the future with other pickups I’m installing in other guitars like the AT-1. Thanks, Andy Response: 1) As I wrote below, your preferred installation direction (both humbuckers with the cable exiting bottom right in the lower photo) will work perfectly well. The neck pickup is normally turned around, but this is usually the case when a true single-coil is in the middle, which you do not have. 2) Neither direction can be considered correct or incorrect. It is a matter of individual taste. In terms of coil tapping, the South coil (green and white wires) is the one located over the cable exit on the humbuckers. The south coil of the Cruiser is the one closest to the bridge. DiMarzio Inc.
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Post by newey on Sept 11, 2013 5:07:04 GMT -5
OK, here's a version using an import-style 5-way switch. Just so we're clear, this corresponds to your "Option 2" above with std. Strat wiring (middle pickup in the middle). If you want N + M at position 3, you'd need the Superswitch. Note that you're only using one pole of the switch. That's due to the "Bridge only" tone control. Ordinarily, on a regular Strat with two tone controls, the second pole is used to select between the tone pots. The layout of these import switches varies a bit from one manufacturer to the next. Mostly, they're like I've shown it, but if yours looks different post a pic so we can sort it out. Also note that the diagram doesn't deal with the orientation of the switch in the guitar. Of course, you want the lever to point towards the neck when in the neck position, etc. Which lug we call "1" and which is "3" is wholly arbitrary; the diagram assumes we call the bridge setting "1" and the neck setting "3". To be sure that the lever points in the right direction when you actually wire the switch up, you need to understand how the switch works. The lever is pointing in the opposite direction from the lugs which are connected. As shown on the diagram, the neck lug (#1) would be connected when the lever is pointing to the right of the diagram and the bridge when the lever is to the left as shown. Just be sure you've got it right way 'round when you wire it.
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Post by andygprs on Sept 11, 2013 5:29:38 GMT -5
Thanks so much.
Just to confirm, this coil taps neck and middle off the volume push/push, bridge off the tone push/push and if I want to have neck and bridge, I simply flip the mini switch when the 5-way has the neck pickup selected?
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Post by andygprs on Sept 11, 2013 6:10:26 GMT -5
Dear all, In trying to understand this, and reading back through one comment, how about the middle pickup split. Currently it seems black and white are being 'shunted' to hot not ground - is that what was intended? It is white not bare being shown in the diagram? Also, in the dimarzio wiring guide, that is close as I could get, it suggests different pairs being shunted to earth for the middle pickup. Is this to do with hum cancelling in the 2 and 4 positions? Edit 1: In fact their colours are totally different so I'm totally confused! I'm guessing it depends which coils get shunted to ground but the question about 'reversing' what is going on with the middle pickup compared to the others remains relevant? Edit 2: Oo, doing more reading....so is the very reason that the middle black and white are being shunted to hot to reverse the coil being left live? I think I'm getting it. On Newey's diagram, it is black and white going to the middle of the DPDT switches? So bare and green always go to earth? Oh my brain!..... I apologise for my lack of knowledge and understanding! Cheers, Andy
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Post by newey on Sept 11, 2013 12:15:01 GMT -5
Yes.
Yes. The bare wires are shields, they do not carry signal. They are always attached to ground regardless of any other wiring. I don't show the bare wires on my diagram (not all pickups have shield wires), and neither does DiMarzio. It is just understood that the bare wires always go to ground.
The middle pickup will be hum-cancelling as I show it. John suggested wiring the middle pickup "inside out" and attaching the junction wire sto ground instead of to the hot, as I show it. In theory, John's way may have some benefit as far as less noise. In practice, I've done it both ways and never noticed any difference. Again, this has nothing to do with hum-cancelling between the coils, we're talking other potential sources of noise.
To wire the middle pickup inside out, you would attach the red and green wires to the switch where the black and white wires are now wired. Then, white goes to "hot" and black goes to ground. The orange wire, which I show going to hot, is then grounded.
Now, as to Dimarzio's diagram, they show the opposite- the neck and bridge pickups are both wired "inside out", while the middle is wired "right way around", if you will. It's just the opposite of what John had and I had. Both ways will hum-cancel at positions 2 and 4. The difference (the only difference)lies in which coils of the 2 HBs are active when split. I have one set active, they have the opposite coils active.
Which coils you would want depend on which you prefer. To zero in on this means ascertaining which are controlled by which wires, and which one is closer or further from the middle pickup. We haven't yet discussed this question. The bottom line is that either DM's diagram or mine will work, but the one splits the N coils of the HBs and the other splits the S coils. We don't know which is which without a further look at DM's coil placements.
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 11, 2013 12:50:29 GMT -5
Thanks you sir. Well, considering one of my pickups is probably installed upside down I shall go ahead and wire up as you suggested tonight! I think I have everything but the kill switch, which will be an easy addition tomorrow. That's the theory if everything goes to plan tonight.....excited!
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andygprs
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Post by andygprs on Sept 11, 2013 12:59:48 GMT -5
PS - the push push pots have a little tab sticking off the DPDT switch casing which might serve as nice earth anchor point....I'll give it a try.....well away from the innards of the pot....
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