New Jaguar wiring scheme

[dannyhill]

Hello!

I am looking to wire ASmith's superswitch plus scheme on a Tele and Jazzcaster I have:


It all checks out! Nice one ASmith!

However, I would also like to use this for a Squier VM Jag I have. Only thing, in Position 2, we go into 'Broadbucker' mode and the Jag is wired differently with the volume passing to the volume pot AFTER passing to the hot lug of the tone pot and then out to the volume hot via the tone wiper. As I understand this (?), and discussed with Sumgai and others here:

Jaguar wiring discussion

Pickup load: It results in up to 56kOhm added in series with the pickups which means the 1MOhm volume and tone pots in parallel are then across both resulting in an increase of load across the pups, from zero up to 56KOhm as tone is rolled down from 10 to 0. Gradually taking more and more of the highs off of the pickups before tone roll off and volume roll off are considered.
Tone roll off: It decreases (?) the taper on the tone pot, so where you would have a 900KOhm path to ground for the highs, now they see 936KOhm 153K€ instead of 100KOhm and 56KOhm instead of 0KOhm. So slightly less highs rolled off. As Sumgai said, to go below 56KOhm you need to switch over to the Rhythm circuit.
How does that sound. Seems like one compensates for the other with the sole advantage that you never go to zero on the tone control. That it?

So the problem is this. In ASmith's circuit, it assumes a regular tele wiring scheme, i.e. switch output to volume pot and then connection to tone pot to roll off the highs except in position 2 where the connection from the volume pot (to the tone pot) moves to just after the hot end of the neck pickup before it enters the ground end of the bridge pup withi which it is in series. Is there anyway to modify the switching scheme so the positions stay as they are except that the output of the switch goes straight to the volume hot and the tone connection goes to the tone wiper i.e. as a regular tele? Or do I just have to forsake the broadbucker for the Jag and have a SHOOP position instead at position 2? How would that look wired? Just wire across the lower right lugs all together and have a cap going to ground from the upper right number 2 lug? Plus jumper the upper right number 1 and common ground lower right before sending them to the hot lug of the tone pot in a jaguar volume/tone pot wiring scheme?

Anyway, something to sharpen our minds going into the week :-)
Cheers,

Danny

[newey]

Is there anyway to modify the switching scheme so the positions stay as they are except that the output of the switch goes straight to the volume hot and the tone connection goes to the tone wiper i.e. as a regular tele?

Yeah, if you do away with using the tone pot to vary the series OOP at position 2.

Or do I just have to forsake the broadbucker for the Jag and have a SHOOP position instead at position 2?

Well, if we lose the tone control at position 2, then we are forsaking the "variable broadbucker". If you want the regular HOOP at position 2 instead, envision losing the tone control but leaving the cap where it's at. The tone control is than just wired as standard.

How would that look wired? Just wire across the lower right lugs all together and have a cap going to ground from the upper right number 2 lug? Plus jumper the upper right number 1 and common ground lower right before sending them to the hot lug of the tone pot in a jaguar volume/tone pot wiring scheme?

The lower right-hand pole of the SS is used only to switch the tone control at position 2; at all other positions, it's just wired to the hot output. So, if we eliminate that at position 2 , we don't need to use the 4th pole of the SS at all, we can eliminate all those connections and take the tone pot off of the switch entirely.

[dannyhill]

Kinda of a fixed broadbucker?

[newey]

Well, we've used the term "Broadbucker" rather loosely over the years, it has also been applied to the fixed cap on one coil. So that's why I said "variable broadbucker".

[dannyhill]

So you did!
So, broadbucker, i.e. non-variable, is a SHOOP in reverse pup wiring configuration?

EDITED: BTW I need to jumper the upper right 1st and 4th connections as well for it to work, right?

[newey]

Here's Borsanova's original Broadbucker post. As he originally posted it, it was indeed variable- but not OOP. Since then, we've used the term for SHOOP as well as fixed resistor between two coils schemes.

BTW I need to jumper the upper right 1st and 4th connections right as well right for it to work?

There's too many "rights" in that sentence, but yes, those lugs need to go to the output, as well as lug #1 on the upper left-hand pole.

It's probably best if you redraft a new diagram with all these changes, which we can then vet for you.

[dannyhill]

SHOOP - Series half out of phase?
SFOOP - Series fully out of phase
SOOP - Everything in between?

Similary:
HOOP
FOOP
OOP


I don't see why the upper left needs to be connected.

[newey]

I don't see why the upper left needs to be connected.

Because it's dealing with the bridge pup, either + or -, depending on the P/P position, at position 1 of the SS. The bridge is either shorted to ground, with the P/P "down", or connected in parallel with the neck pup, if the P/P is "up"

"SOOP"= "Series Out of Phase"
"POOP"= "parallel out of phase"
"Hoop"= "Half out of phase" (which is a misnomer, it's not actually 90° OOP as opposed to 180° OOP. I guess 90° would be "half out of phase", if it existed in guitar wiring.)
"SHOOP"= as you surmised, is "series 'half out' of phase". As far as I recall, no one has proposed "PHOOP" yet, probably because it would be low output.

[dannyhill]

Hi Newey,

Pls check the wiring again, maybe we are talking at cross purposes but to me its not necessary. Position 5 connects the bridge pup to the hot output via the light blue track.
""Hoop"= "Half out of phase" (which is a misnomer, it's not actually 90° OOP as opposed to 180° OOP. I guess 90° would be "half out of phase", if it existed in guitar wiring.)"
Not really, it is 90º or Pi/2 out of phase, with 180º or Pi being totally OOP or just simply 'out of phase'. Sp half means half way between totally out of phase and totally in phase.

D

[newey]

Not really, it is 90º or Pi/2 out of phase, with 180º or Pi being totally OOP or just simply 'out of phase'. Sp half means half way between totally out of phase and totally in phase.

Adding the cap isn't changing the phase of the signal, it's still 180° OOP

Pls check the wiring again, maybe we are talking at cross purposes but to me its not necessary. Position 5 connects the bridge pup to the hot output via the light blue track.

Not talking #5, we're talking upper left pole, lug #1. As shown currently, a light blue wire connects that lug to lug #4, upper right pole. That wire needs to remain there. Lug #4, upper right pole, then needs to be jumpered to lug #1, upper right pole, which is in turn connected to the output. We thus eliminate all of the light blue wiring to the lower left pole.

All three of those lugs need to be connected to output, that was my point. You're only adding one new wire to do so.

[dannyhill]

Hi Newey,

"Adding the cap isn't changing the phase of the signal, it's still 180° OOP"
Not sure that is true, see the following from wikipedia capacitor page:

Impedance, the vector sum of reactance and resistance, describes the phase difference and the ratio of amplitudes between sinusoidally varying voltage and sinusoidally varying current at a given frequency.
Impedance decreases with increasing capacitance and increasing frequency.
Capacitors are different from resistors and inductors in that the impedance is inversely proportional to the defining characteristic; i.e., capacitance.

"Not talking #5, we're talking upper left pole, lug #1. As shown currently, a light blue wire connects that lug to lug #4, upper right pole. That wire needs to remain there. Lug #4, upper right pole, then needs to be jumpered to lug #1, upper right pole, which is in turn connected to the output. We thus eliminate all of the light blue wiring to the lower left pole.

All three of those lugs need to be connected to output, that was my point. You're only adding one new wire to do so."


The upper left pole contains dark green/blue wiring. From the way ASmith has numerated his positions/wiring, #5 is just to the right of the common lug. On the upper right pole it is to the far left of common.
I agree that the first wire needs to remain there. I agree with the jumpering. Although we are elminating the light blue wiring to the lower RIGHT pole, not the left. But this is what I posted before. We didn't understand each other :-)

[newey]

From the way ASmith has numerated his positions/wiring, #5 is just to the right of the common lug. On the upper right pole it is to the far left of common.

Exactly. And so we're clear, I'm talking about the upper left pole, lug #1. I never said anything about lug #5.

we are elminating the light blue wiring to the lower RIGHT pole, not the left

Yes, I meant lower right.

[dannyhill]

I want to go back to bed.
How did that #5 get in my head?