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Post by JohnH on Dec 23, 2013 20:12:09 GMT -5
This was a quick, pre Christmas, day-surgery procedure to bring some more life to a very inexpensive Strat. It's a Sansui brand, given to my son for free, since it had 'serious' electrical problems. Luckily he knew a chap who could fix it!
It looks quite nice, classic vintage Strat styling and had been hardly ever played. few dings and no fret wear, and even the plastic cover was still on the pg. Not expecting much, I plugged it in and was pleasantly surprised to find that the neck was entirely playable, better than most second hand guitars that I have come across. So it was definitely worth working on.
The electrical problem was an intermittent bad volume pot, not worth trying to fix and easily replaced. The tone of the ceramic pickups was a bit weak, not the worst though. They have dc resistances of about 6.2, 6.6 and 7.1k, quite high for singles. Based on the sound, this may be more due to thinner winding wire than to extra turns of 'hot' single-coil pickups.
The stock wiring was quite neat, all 250k pots, with separate 0.047 tone caps for each tone pot. Screened wire was used for the pickups and jack connections. The switch was a 7-lug in-line type with a single common connection. It works reliably.
www.jocidapark.com.au/circuits/GN2/sansui1_zpsc4c7a7e8.jpg
Here' s the trem cavity, with the worlds skinniest trem block - definitely better to be decked (and see the nice hole through the back due to random routing in the pickup cavity!)
www.jocidapark.com.au/circuits/GN2/sansui2_zps7ee4f68d.jpg
Wiring Scheme Apart from fixing the volume problem, we decided to add a few bells and whistles to expand and improve the tonal range. This was a good chance to try a new version how to get as much as possible by adding a single dpdt. The design is related to my SSM schemes, which were for HSS.
I reckon the three main things that most people might want to add to an SSS Strat are:
1. An N+B parallel sound 2. Tone control of the bridge pickup 3. Some series options. But it is often noted that such series sounds between single coils can become too muddy if not controlled. With simple (not noiseless) singles, the best series options are probably by adding M in series to B, N or B+N
www.jocidapark.com.au/circuits/GN2/SSSdpdt241213_zps4dc50fde.gif
So a dpdt sub-mini toggle was added which disconnects the M and puts B in its place, resulting in N, N+B, B, B. B options. The M pickup drops into a series position below the others, bypassed by the series blend pot, so you can then fade up to NxM, (B+N)xM, BxM, BxM, BxM. All of these full series settings are nominally hum cancelling.
There's four distinct new sounds, but the in-between series sounds are also particularly nice, just adding a touch of extra mids to thicken the tone. Clearly there is some redundancy in repeated settings, but this also leads to the ability to make several useful one-switch transitions, such as B to BxM or B+M to BxM.
To go with this, the single tone pot was wired as a master tone, using 500k to reduce load, with a 0.022uF cap. One of the old 250k pots became the replacement volume pot, with treble bleed for better low volume clarity. This scheme seems to fill out the range of these pickups, and it's made it an enjoyable axe to play. I'd be happy to put this scheme into a better Strat too.
www.jocidapark.com.au/circuits/GN2/sansui5_zps77a8770f.jpg"
www.jocidapark.com.au/circuits/GN2/sansui4_zps0977d816.jpg
John
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Post by JohnH on Jan 5, 2014 2:47:24 GMT -5
Here is a more worked up schematic, plus wiring diagram: www.jocidapark.com.au/circuits/GN2/SSS071115_zpsfpppkijt.gifThis one uses the second half of most 5-way switches to cut off any partly hanging coils in series mode - a small nicety that may fractionally reduce noise, but not essential. The switch used in eth build posted above did not have this feature, and still worked out fine. Either way it is a simple wiring job with low expense, to add several key new sounds to a Strat. The 9 unique sounds are highlighted yellow. With this, and the other SSM designs, the feature of being able to blend just a small amount of an extra pickup in series seems to give the best balance between thicker and thinner tones, without the muddiness of full series settings.
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Post by Runewalker on Feb 17, 2015 14:01:57 GMT -5
John, in terms of the options it gives, this sort of reminds me of the venerable Strat Lover's design that you enhanced many years ago (legasy references back to the original GN site). GN2 Strat LoverGN1 Strat LoverI see you posted this back in Dec. 2014 Shows how far behind I am. The main difference in playing options is that the (N+M) X B is replaced with a (N+B) X M. Whereas the Strat Lover then controls blend with separate Vol. pots, this one has a blender. Then of course this one does not have the OoP options. Interesting, simple design with a number of usable options. We (Son-o and I) still wire up SLs all the time because they are easier to explain to others than some of the more advanced designs and give a ton of usable tones with the mixing controls. But this one would do similar things without the added complexity of PPs and OoP. Quite elegant. RW
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Post by JohnH on Feb 18, 2015 5:37:59 GMT -5
Thanks for your comments RW. On my son's cheapo Strat, the setting of B+N fading up to B+N in series with M is the winner, becoming humcancelling along with the other series modes. I like having this sort of series blender, there are several good places to pause as you turn the pot up to full series, adding volume and mids.
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Post by Ro_S on Nov 2, 2015 16:49:03 GMT -5
Hello, I wanted to say that I think this mod is great! Thankyou to the OP I'll probably use it on one of the guitar wiring projects I have lined up. I was looking for something like this. (I'm new to the forum. I joined after finding this thread on a google search.) I have a couple of questions about this mod, please. I'm a novice. 1. I'd like to have the switch around the other way functionality wise. i.e. the standard Strat configurations are active when the switch is engaged, and the other 5 configurations, with the middle blend, are the 'default'. How would I need to change the wiring on the switch to achieve this please? (Note: I'd prefer to use a push-pull pot, on the middle pickup blend pot, for this purpose rather than use a toggle switch.) 2. @ OP, you wrote, "This one uses the second half of most 5-way switches to cut off any partly hanging coils in series mode - a small nicety that may fractionally reduce noise, but not essential." - I didn't understand that bit; please could you explain. Thanks (I hope it's okay to post this here.)
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Post by JohnH on Nov 3, 2015 7:24:39 GMT -5
Thanks for your interest in this design. If you wanted to use a push pull switch, the wiring would be the same as for the toggle that we used. To get the series modes as the knob-pushed-in setting, the side of the switch shown nearest the middle pot on the diagram would be fixed to it.
The hanging from hot issue is a small thing, but when a coil is connected only at one end but not to ground, sometimes it may pick up a small amount of noise. A standard strat switch can fix it, though on our build we didn't have this.
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Post by Ro_S on Nov 4, 2015 16:30:45 GMT -5
Thanks for your interest in this design. If you wanted to use a push pull switch, the wiring would be the same as for the toggle that we used. To get the series modes as the knob-pushed-in setting, the side of the switch shown nearest the middle pot on the diagram would be fixed to it. The hanging from hot issue is a small thing, but when a coil is connected only at one end but not to ground, sometimes it may pick up a small amount of noise. A standard strat switch can fix it, though on our build we didn't have this. @ John H. -Hello, Thanks for your reply. I'm afraid the bit about the 5-way switch is still 'over my head'. Here's are links to the particular type of 5-way switch I'll be using: s1108.photobucket.com/user/Ro_S/media/Westone%20Concord%20II/5way_zps4873b88a.jpg.htmls1108.photobucket.com/user/Ro_S/media/Westone%20Concord%20II/Capture_zpsad7c1f60_1.jpg.htmlI have several questions about your mod schematic - which I intend to implement - that I'd be very grateful for your input on, please:Q1. When the switching has the middle pickup incorporated into the circuit (along with another pickup), but in an instance when the middle pickup blend control is turned all the way off to zero, what impact - if any - does that impart on the sonic properties produced by the others pickup//s compared with a normal Strat wiring? Q2.(re: hum-cancelling.) When the middle pickup blend control is turned down all the way down to zero, but the middle pickup (assume it is RW/RP) is engaged in the circuit will it have any hum-cancelling effect? Q3. (re: hum-cancelling.) When the middle pickup is blended in with the neck or bridge pickup then (assuming the middle pickup is RW/RP) will it produce a hum-cancelling effect immediately. Is the degree of hum-cancelling variable dependant on the amount of middle pickup blended in? Q4. (re: pot values.) I noticed that you used a 500k pot for one of the pot values on your original, hand-drawn schematic, but then changed it to 250k for the later version you posted. What was the reason for the change? Q5. (re: pot values.) I've encountered other Strat mod schematic designs that incorporate a middle pickup blend - both in series and in parallel. The creators often advocate a higher, 500k pot values instead of 250k. What's your view on this in respect of your schematic? (Note: I'm starting my wiring and component choices for my project from scratch, so if I buy 500k pots it makes no difference in cost outlay to me.) Q6. (re: tone control and middle pickup.) I'm considering having the middle pickup without any tone control - not even via the main tone control. What do you think? I was thinking it might make for some interesting tonal mixing when the middle pickup is blended in with another pickup? Q7. (re: location of the RW/RP pickup.) I have a choice of several single coil pickups to use on this project, although only one is opposite polarity to the rest. I realise that the RW/RP pickup would normally be used in the middle location on a Strat, but in the case of this project with your wiring schematic, I'm more interested in using the guitar in Telecaster-like and Jaguar-like switching configurations (i.e. bridge, neck, and bridge+neck) and using the middle pickup blend to add some 'meat'. Given this, I considering using the RW/RP in neck or bridge location? What do you think? thanks!
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Post by JohnH on Nov 5, 2015 13:49:39 GMT -5
Q1. When the switching has the middle pickup incorporated into the circuit (along with another pickup), but in an instance when the middle pickup blend control is turned all the way off to zero, what impact - if any - does that impart on the sonic properties produced by the others pickup//s compared with a normal Strat wiring?
In series mode, but with blend at zero, the M pickup adds nothing to the tone nor humcancelling, since it is shorted out to ground then
Q2.(re: hum-cancelling.) When the middle pickup blend control is turned down all the way down to zero, but the middle pickup (assume it is RW/RP) is engaged in the circuit will it have any hum-cancelling effect?
see Q1 Q3. (re: hum-cancelling.) When the middle pickup is blended in with the neck or bridge pickup then (assuming the middle pickup is RW/RP) will it produce a hum-cancelling effect immediately. Is the degree of hum-cancelling variable dependant on the amount of middle pickup blended in?
The hum cancelling blends up along with the tonal effect, but you get some useful humcancelling quite quickly
Q4. (re: pot values.) I noticed that you used a 500k pot for one of the pot values on your original, hand-drawn schematic, but then changed it to 250k for the later version you posted. What was the reason for the change?
With series wiring its best to use pots that can apply less load, in order to keep high frequencies. So for our build we changed the tone pot from 250 to 500k, which was fine and as shown in the sketch. But what I think is even better is a no-load tone pot. That is what I have in my own Fender so I showed that on the computer drawing. It gives a bit more treble, but also better control when you want to roll down tone.
Q5. (re: pot values.) I've encountered other Strat mod schematic designs that incorporate a middle pickup blend - both in series and in parallel. The creators often advocate a higher, 500k pot values instead of 250k. What's your view on this in respect of your schematic? (Note: I'm starting my wiring and component choices for my project from scratch, so if I buy 500k pots it makes no difference in cost outlay to me.)
see Q4
Q6. (re: tone control and middle pickup.) I'm considering having the middle pickup without any tone control - not even via the main tone control. What do you think? I was thinking it might make for some interesting tonal mixing when the middle pickup is blended in with another pickup?
It would need a different design to make that work. best would be a dual-ganged tone pot, one half dedicated to each of B and N, hardwired across them. But I don't think it will be much more versatile that just with a master tone control. If you want a more complex circuit that does more - we have plenty of those! this one is just for simple wiring.
Q7. (re: location of the RW/RP pickup.) I have a choice of several single coil pickups to use on this project, although only one is opposite polarity to the rest. I realise that the RW/RP pickup would normally be used in the middle location on a Strat, but in the case of this project with your wiring schematic, I'm more interested in using the guitar in Telecaster-like and Jaguar-like switching configurations (i.e. bridge, neck, and bridge+neck) and using the middle pickup blend to add some 'meat'. Given this, I considering using the RW/RP in neck or bridge location? What do you think?
Your choice - with this design, its optimised for M being RPRP in terms of how many humcancelling settings are available
switch
you can use that switch. The two poles are the middle lugs and you will need to cut the wire between them. gotta go to work now..
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 6, 2015 13:05:01 GMT -5
Here is a more worked up schematic, plus wiring diagram: JohnH, I know this is almost 2 years old, but I don't think the schematic is right. The wiring diagram looks like it works, but the schematic doesn't match. The smallest of the issues is that the line from the top of the T pot doesn't actually get all the way to the "hot" line where I think you meant it to go, so it's not actually connected to anything. But then, the switching isn't quite right either. It looks like the top of the blend pot wants to go to the "B" common on one (actually both) of the switches instead of the bottom of the neck/neck lug of the 5-way.
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Post by JohnH on Nov 6, 2015 14:28:44 GMT -5
Thanks, yes indeed. I have fixed the schematic in the original post, replacing with this one. No changes to the wiring diagram cheers
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Post by Ro_S on Nov 24, 2015 10:14:10 GMT -5
@ John H - many thanks indeed for your responses above !
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nikogo
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Post by nikogo on Apr 18, 2018 22:56:42 GMT -5
Hello John, Please explain what function performs the S1B part of 5 pos. switch in your scheme? What would happen if the lower wires of N and B pickups would be directly connected to S2B common and the upper wire of blending pot in one point without using S1B? I believe it would be the same. Where I am wrong? Thank you
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Post by JohnH on Apr 18, 2018 23:37:06 GMT -5
With just one side of the switch used, then it does still work as you noted. But there's a small risk of slight added noise in series mode, due to hanging coils still connected at one end. Given there's a half of the switch available to fix this, why not use it?
But it's still a good scheme even without S1b. Some import switches dont havs seperate poles, actually, as on tbe cheapo one we tried it on. See the sketched schematic.
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nikogo
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Post by nikogo on Apr 19, 2018 20:15:31 GMT -5
A nice scheme. I came with a simplified version without S2A and the Blend pot when fixed Strats for a young band. I think your scheme would be more versatile if the 3PDT switch would be used to connect also the top wire of Blend pot (common pin of 3rd group)) by the normally closed to 0.1uF capacitor in series with the Coil to the hot wire on top of the Volume pot, and NO would go to the S2B common as it is now. It would make the Blend pot working as the mid scooping tone control in parallel combination where it is currently not used. The Coil - a coil from 24V micro relay with inductance 1.6H - 2H. (not sure about nominal value) I used the two tone controls - low pass and scooping - and they work nice separately and in combinations.
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Post by Ro_S on Nov 26, 2018 9:21:51 GMT -5
JohnH - I still really like your scheme, but I have a concern/question: Assuming without having any no-load pots, how can one avoid muddy sounding series combinations whilst still achieving the normal Strat single coil sounds, as the latter relies on 250k pots?
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Post by JohnH on Nov 26, 2018 14:07:54 GMT -5
JohnH - I still really like your scheme, but I have a concern/question: Assuming without having any no-load pots, how can one avoid muddy sounding series combinations whilst still achieving the normal Strat single coil sounds, as the latter relies on 250k pots? Actually, in this and also my HSS Strat, I didn't use no-load for the series blender and they are not muddy. By the time you approach the point where a no-load pot would cut off, the full series tone has developed, but as I said in another thread, this may depend on the pickups. The series blender has no affect on the tone of pure single and parallel combos.
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markoplan
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Post by markoplan on Jan 15, 2020 10:05:34 GMT -5
JohnH -- I really like this scheme -- it seems elegant and practical and I plan to give it a try. I do appreciate that part of the premise here is the use of existing stock parts, but I have one question, somewhat opposite from an issuer raised by a prior commenter. would a smaller value (e.g., 10k) for the series blender allow more control and enable as much of the middle pickup as is useful? I note that typical strat pickups have outputs around 6-8k, and that when PRS and other builders do "partial" HB splits (in effect, a fixed series blend), they use only 1k or 2k resistors. if that's right, much of the track of a 250k (even with an audio taper) is overkill. pardon me if this is a dumb question, i'm still learning here.
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Post by JohnH on Jan 15, 2020 15:11:33 GMT -5
Hi markoplan, thanks for your interest in this one. we still have it wired up.
Yes most of the blending happens at low k and if you want to spread the range around the pot turn, you could try a lower value pot such as 100k log. But with that, or anything less, I'd suggest turning it into a no-load pot if you want to have the option of a full series sound.
On my HSS version, I used a no-load 250k for a similar blender, and I can tell no difference as it goes to no-load, but at 100k there may be something.
But at least with this wiring, the series blender has no effect on normal parallel settings, so you can choose it to suit just the one job.
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markoplan
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Post by markoplan on Feb 27, 2020 8:57:07 GMT -5
ready to wire this up and went to print out the schematic, but the image links now are either dead or blurred. am I doing something wrong?
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Post by reTrEaD on Feb 27, 2020 10:56:18 GMT -5
ready to wire this up and went to print out the schematic, but the image links now are either dead or blurred. am I doing something wrong? markoplan, it's not you. It's a change in the software now that https is enabled. The site where JohnH hosts his images is http not https. So they won't display on the forum until that site gets a certificate. I added direct links to the images. I think you'll be able to click those to view them. Let me know.
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markoplan
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Post by markoplan on Feb 27, 2020 13:02:30 GMT -5
many thanks retread, I really appreciate it
would the link to JohnH's reply #9 (from Nov 6 2015) be the same as in reply #1?
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Post by JohnH on Feb 27, 2020 14:59:21 GMT -5
The first post and reply#1 should be all you need, thanks reTrEaD for making the links. Ive also added a workaround in my sig below for finding links to my pictures.
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markoplan
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Post by markoplan on Feb 27, 2020 17:25:32 GMT -5
got it, super, thank you both
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lolo
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Post by lolo on Mar 17, 2020 14:17:32 GMT -5
I'm about to try this schematic, it seems quite versatile. I have one question, though, does the M blender have any effect on the circuit/sound when the switch is on "normal strat"?
(By the way, the diagram on the link is already corrected right?)
Thanks for sharing!
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Post by JohnH on Mar 17, 2020 18:12:43 GMT -5
no, in normal mode the blender has no effect, it's fully bypassed. That diagram should be ok.
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Post by lolo on Apr 4, 2020 7:40:00 GMT -5
Well, I've finished the wiring about a week ago with 500k pots for volume and tone and 100k no load for the blender. I must say, I think the real winner in this scheme is the fact that you can dial the blender as you want and having the classic start sounds with only a switch. The sound of the bridge and the middle in series is KILLER, and it's definitely one of my favourite positions.
So Im totally grateful for you taking the time to post this and answer our questions.
Buut, I have one last question. ¿How do you have your pickup height set? Because as far ive experimented series sound is a little better with both pickups at a similar height but for maximum "quack" on neck and middle it's preferable to have them at different heights.
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Post by JohnH on Apr 4, 2020 14:41:46 GMT -5
Hi lolo, thanks for posting and I'm glad it worked out.
I think how you set it is really dependent on your pickups and how you like it. You have to experiment.
With the cheap pickups on our test version, I liked position 4 blended the best, where neck and bridge parallel are then put all in series with middle but we didn't play around with pickup height much until my son took it away.
On other similar schemes, I usually like to set pickups so all the single and parallel sounds are about the same volume, and it gets louder if there are humbucker or series settings involved.
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Post by Ro_S on Jul 11, 2020 11:42:04 GMT -5
Well, I've finished the wiring about a week ago with 500k pots for volume and tone and 100k no load for the blender. I must say, I think the real winner in this scheme is the fact that you can dial the blender as you want and having the classic start sounds with only a switch. The sound of the bridge and the middle in series is KILLER, and it's definitely one of my favourite positions. Hello, May I ask; why did you choose 500k pots for vol/tone instead of 250k pots? 250k is the norm for Strats. Didn't you find 500k pots too bright (on the non-series settings) ?? I'd also appreciate anyone else's views on the above, please. (Although, I think I'm right in saying that Fender Jaguar guitars use 1meg pots?? so even brighter than 500k. Jaguar pickups are essentially Strat pickups with the metal 'claw' added.) thanks
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Post by Ro_S on Jul 11, 2020 13:16:43 GMT -5
Hello,
I've expressed my admiration previously for the wiring scheme of this thread.
I've not implemented this wiring scheme myself yet, but I'm definitely still very interested in potentially do so. I have a particular project in mind.
What attracts me to this wiring scheme is that it can do all of the traditional 5-way switching options of a Strat, but that it also addresses what are, imo, the two biggest shortfalls of the traditional Strat's standard 5-way switching scheme with three single coil pickups. I regard those shortfalls as being: (i) the inability to get B+N pickups in parallel (like, say, on a Telecaster or a Jaguar); and, (ii) the inability to get higher output sounds (cos no bridge HSS humbucker pickup or 'in series' switching combinations).
What I also like about the wiring scheme of this thread is how the two-way switch is implemented to basically give two distinct modes of operation: i.e. the traditional 5-way Strat wiring in 'normal' mode; and then, in the other mode, you effectively get 3-way B/N switching (like on a Tele), but with the addition of in series options too - provided by the blender control knob.
I have some questions please relating to this particular scheme, as well as generally about combining single coil pickups in series to get more higher output humbucker pickup ish type sounds. Please find my list of questions further below. Any help is much appreciated.
First, just to preface my questions by explaining my guitar project, as I think that will help explain more where I'm coming from . . . The guitar is a Squier 'Jagmaster' (that's not a typo). It has a Jaguar/Jazzmaster style body, with a Strat style vibrato system, and full Fender Strat scale-length. It has a 'swimming pool' style pickup rout. Essentially I want to create a super-duper Stratocaster, with all sorts of switching options, but in a Fender style offset body (it's superior to a Strat imo). Sort of like a Jaguar/Jazzmaster meets Stratocaster hybrid. No 'rhythm' (jazz) circuit, though.
I've designated a matched set of three vintage-spec Stratocaster style single coils pickups for my project. One is is RW/RP. DC resistance readings of the pickups are roughly 6.2k/6.5k/6.7k. All the electronics are currently gutted. The parts I've removed are irrelevant.
Nb. I'll be making a custom scratchplate. so anything is possible regarding the controls; there's no limitation. - I'll be adding a Fender 'Jazz Bass' style chrome control plate with four holes. - The envisaged global volume control shall probably be on the scratchplate itself and located below the bridge pickup - like it is on a Jazzmaster. - I've already added a Strat style 'boat' output jack plate. - I can add switches to the upper and lower horns of the body, on the scratchplate.
- I don't necessarily have to incorporate a Strat style 5-way switch.
LIST OF QUESTIONS:
Q1. What type of pot taper is best for the in series blender control knob to achieves the best variable control across the blender's 'sweep'? Log./audio; linear; or, reverse log?
Q2. What value pot is best for the in series blender control knob achieves the best variable control across the blender's 'sweep'?
Q3. Instead of a global tone control for this scheme, could I instead have an independent tone (treble cut) control for each pickup? (disregard any logistical space issue - see above.)
Q4. With this scheme, I presume that a problem is that of the low resistance (250k) vol/tone pots regarding when the in series combinations are used, correct? Cos won't 250k pots make the in series combinations sound too muddy/dark? (Humbucker pickups usually have 500k pots, not 250k.) But if 500k pots were used instead of 250k pots, wouldn't that make the single coil settings be too bright? What can be done to address this issue? if it is indeed an issue? Would a bass cut control - like, for example, a Fender Jaguar's ''strangle" switch (a fixed capacitor) - therefore be a useful addition? Any thoughts, ideas?
Q5. How much added worthwhile functionality does the variability of the in series blender control of this scheme provide, compared to instead just having an extra 2-way switch that adds the middle pickup in full in series setting with the B or N pickup? I ask cos I'm curious whether the variable control is really worth it compared to, instead, the simplicity and ease of operation of having a switch that can be activated to engage the full in series combinations.
Q6. Re: the different in series sounds possible on a guitar, in general, with three single coil Strat pickups. Which in series combinations of different pickup locations are most desirable sound wise? I would imagine B&M is 'best', cos that's most like a bridge humbucker sound? But what about M&N and B&N? Is M&N too muddy/dark? Is B&N 'better', more useful, than M&N? Does anyone have experiences to share here? I ask cos this scheme can't achieve B&N in series.
Q7. How does the sound of two vintage-output Strat style single coil pickups in series compare to the sound of a general humbucker? (I assume the major differences affecting the sound are: the humbucker's metal baseplate; the distance between two coils; and, magnetic pole pieces (of single coils) v's bar magnet (beneath the coils) of a humbucker. Agreed?)
Q8. Re: the Fender 'WideRange' humbucker pickup (I'm talking about the proper 1970s vintage ones, not the modern 'fake' remakes that just look like them). Unusually for humbuckers, the Fender 'WideRange' humbucker pickup had actual magnetic pole pieces. This is opposed to the bar magnet beneath the coils in the design of a normal humbucker. That's the main reason why they sound different. I found this quote by a pickup builder: "it gives a clearer, more defined sound that still cancels hum. It’s a more muscular, jangly, indie kind of sound. It’s slightly overwound, so it’s hotter, yet it seems brighter." (vintage Fender 'WideRange' humbuckers have an inductance of 4.85H and a DC resistance of 10.6k ohms.) So my question is, which of the following sounds more like a proper/vintage Fender 'WideRange' pickup: (a) two vintage-output Stratocaster style single coil pickups in series, OR, (b) a normal humbucker design (i.e. with a bar magnet beneath the coils) ? (the former has no metal baseplate, like any humbucker, of course).
Many thanks in advance for any help, advice, opinions and replies.
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Post by JohnH on Jul 11, 2020 16:36:17 GMT -5
Hi Ro_S, nice to hear from you again and thanks for your continued interest in this scheme. I'll try to respond to the questions. The one I did for my son is still here although he has gone overseas. I tried it again recently and I still like it. It was only a cheap guitar but I think that if I was rewiring a decent SSS Strat that I didnt want to hack about too much, I'd still do this scheme. LIST OF QUESTIONS: Q1. What type of pot taper is best for the in series blender control knob to achieves the best variable control across the blender's 'sweep'? Log./audio; linear; or, reverse log? Q2. What value pot is best for the in series blender control knob achieves the best variable control across the blender's 'sweep'? The blender pot when wired this way has most of the tonal variation in the range 0 to about 25k, then a bit more up to about 100k and then the last bit up to max. A 250k log pot is ideal since it spreads that tone action across the sweep, but ideally it is a no-load 250k log to get it right out of circuit at max. This is what the diagram shows. But if you don't use a no-load, it still works fine. I have a similar circuit on my HSS Strat and when the blender goes to no-load at 10, I cant actually hear a difference (but I'm sure there is one!). You can buy a 250k non-load, with a detent at 10, or make one from a normal full size 250 log . Yes you could. You would wire tone pots and caps directly across the two leads of each pickup before the switches, ie not to ground except for M (which has a grounded end). This way the tone circuits travel and get switched with the pickups in series or parallel. Obviously this gives you more options, and also more complication to control in playing, which is your preference to choose. In parallel combinations, all active tone controls act on all pickups that are selected, as with a normal wiring. But in series mode, these tone controls will act specifically on the tone of their own pickup and also interact in interesting ways with the other pickup. eg a series combo of B x M, with M tone turned down will mute the treble from M but let the treble from B come through more strongly, like that a single coil. The result is like single coil Bridge with added humbucker-like weight from M. If you find these effects to be interesting, you might like to try with different caps. 0.047uF as a tone cap gives a greater effect than 0.022uF in these series mixes. If you just wanted to generally reduce treble on a series combo, you would turn two tone pots down. If these interesting variations and complications from having 3x tone pots are actually more of a PITA, then I'd suggest just to have a single master tone These 3x tone pots, or if you had just a single master tone as drawn, should be no-load for reasons described below. That is an issue that is often raised, and there are several possible responses: 1. you can argue its not that big of a deal, the treble change of 250 or 500k pots is not that big whether you are with single or humbuckers 2. you can go with 500k pots and find some way to add or switch in a resistor in parallel when needed (or if needed) 3. use 500k pots and if they are too bright, turn the tone down a tad 4. use two different or one dual gang pot with 250k and 500k for volume But my preference, as implemented in this scheme is: 5. At max treble the tonal effect of pots on pickups comes from the combined parallel combination of tone and volume pots. So if you reckoned the right tone came from a scheme with two 500k pots, then exactly the same tone is achieved with a no-load tone pot at max, with a 250k volume pot. So that's what we do here as drawn, and I have it on other guitars. Also 250k pots are less affected by cables than 500k and also give a smoother spread if you turn down tone. And the Strat parallel quack tones get spankier when the tone is at no-load, if you want it. I don't know, I tend to want to hear a guitar with its basic wiring before deciding. But you could add that, or a bass-cut pot as in PTB wiring The series blender makes a lot of interesting variation as you sweep it, unlike other parallel blenders. Personally, I like it and to add just a bit of the other pickup for added weight can avoid the muddiness of a full series sound With the single coils on our build, the best series tone was B+N in parallel, all in series with M its clear and powerful, and has only 50% more treble-reducing inductance than a full series blend, and it is hum cancelling. I do like B x N in series on my HSS (using one bridge coil), and its true this scheme doesn't have it, but it does have a good range and it wasn't intended to do everything. Note that on a normal SSS set, B and N do not humcancell. Out of my designs, the next one up, with more complexity, would be Strat SP which needs a superswitch and can do any pair in series or parallel I think series combos of singles can sound great, particularly as a part blend, and can be useful for playing where a humbucker would normally go. But they are not quite that same as a native humbucker I don't know about that one You are welcome!
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