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Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Dec 2, 2005 17:44:37 GMT -5
Could somebody have a look at this guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/product/WDUHH3T2204 (the larger diagram image is way easier to see  ) and tell me if the bridge tone pot is reversing the phase of that pup, or both, or . . . ? I'm mostly wondering if the player would have a sudden loss of signal if all the planets weren't aligned right, i.e. if one pup was cut, or the series/parallel pups selection was "wrong," or whatever. Also, is there any way of getting neck/both-series/both-parallel/bridge from a switch of this size guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/c=rWWkxEqixrCoBk4U3M9miBEkn/product/SWT31 rather than this size guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/c=rWWkxEqixrCoBk4U3M9miBEkn/product/SWL41? My idea being to free up the DPDT part of the neck tone pot for something else, without more "guitar surgery" at the selector switch location. I'm also considering doing the internal series/parallel/cut options for each pup with separate switches, maybe with phase reversal for each pup on another small toggle. Decisions, decisions. -- Doug C. |
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Post by mlrpa on Dec 3, 2005 21:23:43 GMT -5
Ok, first off, what kind of guitar are you going to try to shove all of that into? I recommend a simple push pull for series /parallel for each p/u, with maybe a phase switch added.
I sometimes think keeping it simple is best. Why? Well, I had a '62 Gibson Melody Maker SG with a Lawerence XL500 neck, Danelectro single in the mid, and a Dimarzio X2N in the bridge. Each of the hums had series/parallel, coil phase, & coil taps for each coil. The guitar was wired stereo, with the mid p/u wired to be panned either left og right. Yea, I could get anything from the tele twang, to the growl of an old paul. The problem was that during a live gig, the switching was a PAIN! Remembering the switch positions was annoying, and the time between to switching was noticible.
Think about it.
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Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Dec 3, 2005 22:31:35 GMT -5
Ok, first off, what kind of guitar are you going to try to shove all of that into? It's a Memphis LP copy. The humbuckers that it came with are apparently not the originals, and were wired in parallel. The wiring job on them wasn't great (taped but not always soldered connections in the control cavity), so there's an immediate improvement I can make. The ones I'm putting into it will be about 65% hotter, but not so much that the wax will be running out of the coils.  Two of the pots are linear taper, so I think those'll have to go, too. Well, then, it was that stereo/panning thing that pushed you overboard. ;D But, yeah, simplicity is a good thing, too. That's why I was looking to combine the series/parallel into the pickup selector, but I haven't seen a four-position LP-type switch yet. There's a Tele switch with four positions, but I think it might be a little large (and involve some "bodywork" on the guitar) to fit where the usual LP switch goes. This or any of my creations will mostly be for jamming around at home or at a friend's place. I don't expect my first World Tour and Three-State Crime Spree to happen for at least another couple of years.  |
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Post by mlrpa on Dec 5, 2005 16:19:33 GMT -5
Have you thought about dumping the 3 way, and making it a rotary 5 way? Since the guitar is mostly for studio work, selection speed isn't an issue. I have a diagram, or a link that shows how to use a rotary 5 way on 1 pickup. Think of having two of these suckers, with a master volume and tone. You could even put a pre amp where the three way is!
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Post by UnklMickey on Dec 5, 2005 16:27:27 GMT -5
....Well, I had a '62 Gibson Melody Maker SG .... do you mean a Melody Maker solid body or a Melody Maker with the "SG" shape? |
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Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Dec 5, 2005 16:46:02 GMT -5
Have you thought about dumping the 3 way, and making it a rotary 5 way? Yeah, I've been looking into that. I'm still weighing all kinds of possibilities for the least drilling of the guitar body, least cluttered, and most intuitive operation. It's tough to get a balance of all that. Sometimes ya just gotta collect all the information, and make a list of Givens and Druthers.  That sounds interesting, too. I would probably go with one switch to select either or both pickups, with both series/both parallel and maybe "unphase" in the same switch. I'll probably go with individual humbucker series/humbucker parallel/coil cut switches (mini DPDT on/on/on) for each pup. Having a choice of north or south coil for the cut option of any pup doesn't excite me much. Ah, decisions, decisions . . . |
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Post by mlrpa on Dec 5, 2005 23:00:23 GMT -5
Yes, it was the solid mahogany Gibson Melody Maker SG with the stupid big white pick guard, and the cheesy single coil. Out of the 100 or so guitars I've had since, THAT was my favorite and most missed guitar. (I hope the junkie who stole it, my 66 ES330 & 67 Danelectro Coral Vincent Bell Firefly, got a bad batch of dope that was cut with draino!  ) Here is the link, same place where you got yours. guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/product/WDUH5R0001And tho it may not sound exciting, the north/south option is quite nice! A Vantage X88 I had had that, and the sonic possibilities were near endless. And keep the 3 way if you go for two of the above diagram. (I didn't think ahead when I suggested the pre amp. DUH-OH! ) |
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Post by UnklMickey on Dec 6, 2005 10:32:43 GMT -5
Yes, it was the solid mahogany Gibson Melody Maker SG with the stupid big white pick guard.... ya learn somethin' new every day. before this, i thought that shape in the Melody Maker started in '67. |
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Post by mlrpa on Dec 6, 2005 12:27:37 GMT -5
No my friend, you can see them as early as 65 or so on ebay. But the 62 was a "copy" of the Paul Custom. (They were basically SG's. Les hated the guitar so much, that he told Gibson to remove his name from them!)
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Post by UnklMickey on Dec 6, 2005 12:42:32 GMT -5
... Les hated the guitar so much... referring to the SG, or Melody Makers in general? on yours, was the headstock full, or was it narrow with straight sides. |
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Post by mlrpa on Dec 6, 2005 19:27:13 GMT -5
He hated the SG.
It was narrow with straight sides, and the Gibson logo in gold silkscreen. Ahhhh, how I miss that guitar! I ran Martin Marquis 80/20 Bronze 12-56, and still had action at about 3/16th at the 22nd fret.
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Post by UnklMickey on Dec 6, 2005 20:03:31 GMT -5
as well he should. it was nearly, but not competely symmetrical, and those devil like horns of the cutaways -- pure evil. the serial numbers should have started with 666. .:lol:. that diagram you mentioned for the 5-way sounds interesting. i was toying with the idea of creating a diagram for a 3 x 3 matrix of mini-toggles for a strat. on-off,phase,series-parallel. then that morphed into 3 superswitches to accomlish the same thing. i wonder if that's the same basic architecture in that drawing. link me up bud! unk |
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Post by Mini-Strat_Maine on Dec 6, 2005 21:17:58 GMT -5
as well he should. it was nearly, but not competely symmetrical, and those devil like horns of the cutaways -- pure evil. the serial numbers should have started with 666. .:lol:. I've got a catalog here on my desk from a company called "What On Earth." Among their t-shirt designs is one with a picture of a couple of rows of guitars, and the words "Instruments of Rebellion." They also have one that says " 333 -- I'm only half evil." Now we've got some ideas for UnklMickey's birthday present. ;D |
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Post by UnklMickey on Dec 6, 2005 21:26:42 GMT -5
sounds almost right, but i've been told the number for me should be 499.5
(is this too cryptic?)
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) and tell me if the bridge tone pot is reversing the phase of that pup, or both, or . . . ? I'm mostly wondering if the player would have a sudden loss of signal if all the planets weren't aligned right, i.e. if one pup was cut, or the series/parallel pups selection was "wrong," or whatever.
)