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Post by merseymale on Jan 28, 2016 20:36:57 GMT -5
HI y’all!
I’ve fitted a 4way using the Fender recomendation for 2 of my 3 teles and while I really like and use the sounds its just… I dunno how to explain… ‘Counter Intuitive’?
I been looking for a way round this when I saw the following video:
...now what would be IDEAL for me (and perhaps a few others too?) would be Position 0NE/Back: Bridge neck in series Position TWO: Bridge ALONE Position THREE: Bridge & neck in parallel Position four: neck alone
is this possible? Well, after looking at the aforementioned video I think it could be sorta by switching the neck & bridge pups but I can’t quite get my head around it!
Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance! P.S: just to help those only know about 3 or 4 way switches BTW:
F E N D E R: Position 0NE/Back: Bridge ALONE Position TWO: Bridge & neck in parallel Position THREE: neck ALONE Position four/Front: Bridge & neck in series
(what I want to do is basically the usual/F E N D E R way, above but with the series position 4 right at the back & with the other 3 selections shuffled forward. IF that makes any sense!)
The above YouTube VIDEO: Position 0NE/Back: Bridge ALONE Position TWO: Bridge & neck in series Position THREE: Bridge & neck in parallel Position four/Front: neck ALONE
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Post by newey on Jan 28, 2016 22:38:06 GMT -5
Sorry, MM, but I had to move this thread to here. The short answer to your question is that, yes, it can be done. The 4-way "Baja" switch is a 2P4T switch, meaning that each of its positions is independently wire-able. So long as these 4 combos are what is desired, they can be placed in any order. Our own sumgai came up with this version, presented here in schematic form. The positions he presents are just like the YouTube video, with the series at position 2 and parallel at position 3. However, note that sg reverses the numbers of the switch positions, calling the neck position "1" instead of "4". Fender tends to number the positions from the bridge forward, as you have done, but there's really no convention on the numbering, and even Fender themselves haven't always been consistent. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/5073/switch-gives-series-parallel-combosIn sg's schematic, it may be easier for you to "see" how to rewire the positions into the order you would like. If you still can't work it out, I'll get a diagram to you, but it might be the weekend. To me, the YouTube guy's mod seems the most intuitive, as the switch lever, if batted quickly in the heat of the moment, will tend to go from bridge alone to neck alone. IOW, the two extreme positions are where the switch lever will naturally end up; the series and parallel two-pickup combos have to be more or less intentionally selected. So, if a quick flip over from neck to bridge is one's more-usual choice, the guy's mod makes sense. But if you'd rather have the switches "defaults" be the neck and the series, then your way would do that.
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vinnie1971
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by vinnie1971 on Feb 18, 2016 6:40:17 GMT -5
Sorry, MM, but I had to move this thread to here. The short answer to your question is that, yes, it can be done. The 4-way "Baja" switch is a 2P4T switch, meaning that each of its positions is independently wire-able. So long as these 4 combos are what is desired, they can be placed in any order. Our own sumgai came up with this version, presented here in schematic form. The positions he presents are just like the YouTube video, with the series at position 2 and parallel at position 3. However, note that sg reverses the numbers of the switch positions, calling the neck position "1" instead of "4". Fender tends to number the positions from the bridge forward, as you have done, but there's really no convention on the numbering, and even Fender themselves haven't always been consistent. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/5073/switch-gives-series-parallel-combosIn sg's schematic, it may be easier for you to "see" how to rewire the positions into the order you would like. If you still can't work it out, I'll get a diagram to you, but it might be the weekend. To me, the YouTube guy's mod seems the most intuitive, as the switch lever, if batted quickly in the heat of the moment, will tend to go from bridge alone to neck alone. IOW, the two extreme positions are where the switch lever will naturally end up; the series and parallel two-pickup combos have to be more or less intentionally selected. So, if a quick flip over from neck to bridge is one's more-usual choice, the guy's mod makes sense. But if you'd rather have the switches "defaults" be the neck and the series, then your way would do that. It's doable just needs an adjustment on the jumpers. I want my both on in the middle so going from 1 to 4 (1 is switch at the bridge end) 1 bridge 2 bridge + neck in parallel 3 bridge + neck in series 4 neck I got the 4 way switch from northwest guitars for £7 and it Is CRL / Oak Grigsby type rather than the import switch. I am upgrading to CTS pots while I am in there. You can by a control plate prewired from £40 to £70 with a series parallel arrangement ( not like the one I want though)
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Post by sumgai on Feb 19, 2016 13:45:14 GMT -5
... note that sg reverses the numbers of the switch positions, calling the neck position "1" instead of "4". Or one could just as easily transpose my labeling of Neck and Bridge. After all, my choice was arbitrary, which means that anyone can label it any way they wish. But I did (and still do) stick with the original Fender numbering scheme of 1 representing the Neck position. Yes, they've swapped the numbers around over time, first one way and then the other, and I blame that instability on various draftsmen doing their drawings, over the years. Proofreaders can do only so much, before the product has to ship. But even so, those of us who were in Leo's camp when he was still alive, we know how it's supposed to be done. And while I'm at it.... By standardized reference, moving the pickup selector switch "forward" or "backward" is a non-starter, as are such references as "front pickup" and "back pickup". On most mainstream guitars, said pup selector moves up and down, the two notable exceptions being the Telecaster and the Jazzmaster. In the guitar world, "front" refers to the top of the axe, not some imaginary pickup position. "Bridge", "Middle" and "Neck" are the appropriate monikers, for no other reason than to keep everyone on the same page. By further example, when Gibson first started making the Les Paul, they labeled their switch positions "Rhythm" and "Lead". Of course either pickup can be used for either job, but nonetheless, that styling remains in force, right up to this day. None of this "front" or "back" noise for them, eh? </rant> sumgai
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Post by ashcatlt on Feb 25, 2016 12:51:43 GMT -5
Yeah. The front of the guitar is the part that gets scratched by your pick. The back is the part that gets scratched by your belt.
sumgai's version of the Baja switching has the advantage of shorting the unused coil in the bridge-only position, rather than leaving it hanging from hot. This makes somewhere between a good bit and a whole lot of difference noise-wise.
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Post by sumgai on Feb 25, 2016 15:36:20 GMT -5
.... The back is the part that gets scratched by your belt.
Not if you're using one of these babies:
Found mostly on Jazzmasters or Jaguars, the Fender Bodyguard (made by Parker) was also available on Strats. I've never seen or even heard of them on any other Fender axe. They came in clear, black, white and red. But the point being, this validates ash's declaration just above - the back of the guitar is not a "backwards" pickup - don't confuse the real thing with an imaginary thing!
(The above image was taken from this page: Intricacies Of The Fender Jazzmaster. You might wanna read the whole page on JMs, or even the whole site on guitar history, this guy has done a helluva lot of research.)
Also, there are other images out there of these things, but this is one of the better ones I found.
sumgai
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