Post by marshallwatt on Apr 25, 2016 18:02:38 GMT -5
Hello! I just joined and I was wondering if someone might have some advice on re-wiring a Squier 51. They used to have boards dedicated to this but they seem to have all dried up. What I'm doing is making it much simpler. I'm putting a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder Strat pup in the neck, and a Gibson 500T humbucker in the bridge. The 500T has a metal-sheathed single hot wire, I believe. I used a mini-toggle switch because I couldn't find anything else that would fit in there, and a standard CTS 500K potentiometer for the vol pot. I will add that this was my first wiring project other than watching my friend change the vol pot on my '76 hardtail strat for me.
So, after doing tons of research I finally jumped in and spent about 4 hours trying to put it together. In the end, I got one pup to work. I assume it was the single coil neck pickup, for no other reason than that it hummed and made a little clicking noise when I tapped it. There was no sound in the middle position, maybe for a second or two. I have provided a wiring diagram of what I did as an attachment. Any thoughts? My suspicion is that I wired the mini-toggle wrong, because the middle position should have at least produced some sound due to the fact that there was sound in another position, or I may have ruined the switch. My soldering is in a more or less pre-natal stage. I will add that the one pup that worked made a very nice sound, clear and strong.
In order to have an electrical circuit, we have to have two wires to make that circuit. In the case of your Gibson HB, it is still made in the "vintage" style where the metal braid does double duty- it functions as a shield as well as carrying the signal "ground". Your diagram shows both the metal shield and the inner "hot" wire going to the same place on the switch- i.e., no circuit. And thus, no sound from the Gibby HB.
The braid needs to be wired to your grounding point, and the inner "hot" wire goes to the switch. You will have to separate the braid from the inner core wire, and often, you will need to solder an extension to the shield wire to be able to get it to the back of your pot, which you show as your grounding point.
Also, we need to be sure that you have the right sort of switch. Your diagram is fine, provided that your switch is a 3-position "on-on-on" type (sometimes called a "center on"). If it is an "on-off-on" switch, your diagram won't work. If you don't know which type you have, you will need a multimeter or a simple continuity tester to verify this.