I'm not certain that we've ever had anyone (successfully) post images from goo.gl before.... I can't help but wonder, does ProBoards not permit image links from that particular site? It wouldn't be the first time that PB has pulled a stunt like that....
Anyone here have a better clue on this topic?
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I played around with it,but couldn't get the photos up.
Two thoughts come to mind. First, I believe the forum software only supports certain image formats. I couldn't tell whether fiddler's pix were jpegs or not, but I think photos have to be either .jpeg, .btmp or .png files.
Second thought is that the site's url is an "https" (i.e., secured), not sure that plays well with the forum software.
Not sure if this will work, but here's a try. I clicked on the first three pics in the link of the OP, then right-clicked on the images displayed and selected "view image". Then I pasted the address into the dialog box of the insert image function on the create post interface. Btw, the address is extremely long. Yikes!
This nut is going bye bye and will be replaced with a tusQ XL nut...
If you're going to keep the existing bridge, or replace with a different vibrato bridge down the road, I would suggest the Black Tusq XL nuts over the white ones. Reason being, the Black Tusq nuts are impregnated with PTFE...better known as Teflon to those of us who slept through chemistry... Aside from a roller nut, these are about the best solution to maintain some consistency in tuning when whammying...
I have the neck taped off ready for polishing the frets with the Dremel and jeweler's rouge...
I used to use polishing rouge, until I tried rubbing compound on a Dremel wheel. Faster, cleaner and shinier. The rubbing compound is also good for removing the last of the stubborn file marks left over from leveling and recrowning.
Good work. Now, if you ever had measured actual fretboard/frets radius vs bridge radius, any saddle shimming/trimming would definitely have a place at this stage.
You're probably not going to want to match the fretboard radius with your bridge radius. Typically, you're going to want the bridge radius to be flatter than your fretboard radius. For example, Gibson typically put a 10" radius on their fingerboards, but the Tune-O-Matic is at a 12" radius. Part of the theory is to have a flatter radius at the point you're picking the strings. On your bridge, with individually adjustable saddles, this becomes a non-issue.
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I see, for picking it makes perfect sense. But for uniform (across the strings) string height, not exactly. For me (for a shredding axe), bridge radius should match exactly the fretboard radius, maybe with the low string shimmed for slightly higher action to prevent buzzing. But that's just me. Anyway that was just an idea for fiddler.
Last Edit: Sept 2, 2016 23:59:44 GMT -5 by Deleted