Ibanez RG120 Project...

[fiddler]

Soooo I found me an Ibanez RG120 (2007 vintage) on Craigslist the other day. She is a bit neglected, but in purty good shape considering. $50 and she was mine.

Phase 1 of the project is to disassemble and clean. Until I can figure out how to show photos in the post, here is a link to that process:

RG120 Project



Phase 2, with qualified help, will be to replace the stock plastic nut with a TusQ XL Nut. I considered the bone nut option but "on the cheap" is a condition of this project...for now :-)

-Fiddler

[fiddler]

Testing photo link...

[sumgai]

I'm not certain that we've ever had anyone (successfully) post images from goo.gl before.... I can't help but wonder, does ProBoards not permit image links from that particular site?   It wouldn't be the first time that PB has pulled a stunt like that....

Anyone here have a better clue on this topic?

[newey]

I played around with it,but couldn't get the photos up.

Two thoughts come to mind. First, I believe the forum software only supports certain image formats. I couldn't tell whether fiddler's pix were jpegs or not, but I think photos have to be either .jpeg, .btmp or .png files.

Second thought is that the site's url is an "https" (i.e., secured), not sure that plays well with the forum software.

[reTrEaD]

Not sure if this will work, but here's a try. I clicked on the first three pics in the link of the OP, then right-clicked on the images displayed and selected "view image". Then I pasted the address into the dialog box of the insert image function on the create post interface. Btw, the address is extremely long. Yikes!

[col]

I'm not sure of the cause, but it is possible to display the image:



Go here:

photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPiVhNQow85_fqyZHydc9qTxVXY0dwqKih1HTjcdYCt1daKrPJ1-i_Z2rknnnp9_g?key=MmF2emlFb0RnODl1NmM4MkpVclpTZWVPalhhTGlR

Then, click the image. And then, right-click and select 'view image'. And, ONLY THEN, copy the generated URL here, inserting within an img tag. It should go without saying, it should not be this hard.

[col]

Damn you, reTrEaD!

[fiddler]

Nice! You guys rock! I will use this method if I plan to continue using the goo...

[fiddler]

Ok testing the method for the goo...

This nut is going bye bye and will be replaced with a tusQ XL nut...



I am replacing the black oxide fasteners for the bridge components with Stainless steel - for corrosion resistance and looks cool too!



I have the neck taped off ready for polishing the frets with the Dremel and jeweler's rouge...



more to come...

-Fiddler

[Deleted]

Good work. Now, if you ever had measured actual fretboard/frets radius vs bridge radius, any saddle shimming/trimming would definitely have a place at this stage.

[fiddler]

Thanks for the suggestions greekdude. I will consult with my "qualified guitar guru" on those!

[cynical1]

Sept 2, 2016 0:57:56 GMT -5 fiddler said:

This nut is going bye bye and will be replaced with a tusQ XL nut...

If you're going to keep the existing bridge, or replace with a different vibrato bridge down the road, I would suggest the Black Tusq XL nuts over the white ones. Reason being, the Black Tusq nuts are impregnated with PTFE...better known as Teflon to those of us who slept through chemistry... Aside from a roller nut, these are about the best solution to maintain some consistency in tuning when whammying...

I have the neck taped off ready for polishing the frets with the Dremel and jeweler's rouge...

I used to use polishing rouge, until I tried rubbing compound on a Dremel wheel. Faster, cleaner and shinier. The rubbing compound is also good for removing the last of the stubborn file marks left over from leveling and recrowning.

Sept 2, 2016 8:36:02 GMT -5 @pyrros said:

Good work. Now, if you ever had measured actual fretboard/frets radius vs bridge radius, any saddle shimming/trimming would definitely have a place at this stage.

You're probably not going to want to match the fretboard radius with your bridge radius. Typically, you're going to want the bridge radius to be flatter than your fretboard radius. For example, Gibson typically put a 10" radius on their fingerboards, but the Tune-O-Matic is at a 12" radius. Part of the theory is to have a flatter radius at the point you're picking the strings. On your bridge, with individually adjustable saddles, this becomes a non-issue.

Happy Trails -

Cynical One

[Deleted]

I see, for picking it makes perfect sense. But for uniform (across the strings) string height, not exactly. For me (for a shredding axe), bridge radius should match exactly the fretboard radius, maybe with the low string shimmed for slightly higher action to prevent buzzing. But that's just me. Anyway that was just an idea for fiddler.