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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2016 8:21:25 GMT -5
Hello comrades,
a friend of mine offered to make a guitar with the above specs for me, for free, but I'd have to provide materials and the template(s).
So the question is, is there any source I could get a template for 26.5" 7-string neck-through ?
The way I imagine the final product :
- 7 string, RG or (RGA or RGD) shaped
- 26.5" neck-trough, 5-piece maple/wenge (or equivalent) neck with titanium rods, double-action truss rod, very thin neck RG-type
- Ash body or alder (basswood is ultra cool as far as tone is concerned but needs enhancement around bushings )
- Floyd Rose (or equivalent)
- white body (parchment, cream-like)
- maple fretboard
- chrome hardware
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 2, 2016 12:49:44 GMT -5
So the question is, is there any source I could get a template for 26.5" 7-string neck-through ? There are quite a few places offering guitar plans\templates. Some are good, some are just bad or vague references where nothing is to scale or aligns in final construction. I used to have a link on a company that made pretty good MDF templates on a CNC machine, but that was a computer or so ago and I'm going to have to dig around a bit to see if I can find them again. I'm not sure how many good 7 string templates are available out there. I found one in a quick search, but it had fanned frets and a fixed bridge. This is one of those areas where you just have to do your homework on who is providing the drawings\templates. You can pretty much count on getting what you pay for here. A good set of plan drawing can cost a few bucks but are worth the expense. Full template sets are more expensive but save you quite a bit of time when you just have to see sawdust flying everywhere. Famous last words... That should make it easy as that's a pretty popular shape. Since you're going neck-thru the "wings" can be anything you want, since they're glued on after the fact, as it were. Worst case scenario is you take a big sheet of paper to the local Ibanez store and do a quick trace. Don't be afraid to modify this. Remember, you determine where the contours go. Maybe moving the belly around balances better for you....etc... This is the part where I ask you how many guitars your friend has built. Building a standard bolt-on neck is tricky enough build. When you add the modifier of a neck-through design it requires a bit more precision. I know I made some very nice firewood on my first neck-through attempt. Going 5 piece is a good idea. As you found out on the UV70p, there is a significant amount of additional stress put on the neck with that extra string...and don't forget the FR fulcrum at the bridge end multiplying that stress. Ibanez is certainly famous for thin fast necks. I wouldn't go any thinner. Maple has a nice predictable history in neck construction. Wenge, while sexy for the moment, is going to pricey. As the graining is so dissimilar between wenge and maple your friend may wind up with a fair amount of grain filler on the back to maintain a smooth surface across the 5 pieces. Your friend, if he's never worked with wenge, might not enjoy the splinter\sliver part much unless he's got good leather gloves. It does glue reliably as it's not an oily wood. You might want to use that money spent for wenge on some of the more pricey things you're going to be buying for the project. Shopping around for walnut or mahogany would not be an engineering compromise, as mahogany is about as stable as any wood you're about to find, and might help take some of the bite out of the 7 string FR bridge with the money you can put back into the project by dropping the wenge component. This is the ghost of Ibanezes past coming out here...    Since you're going with a neck through design you just need to make the bridge end of the 5-piece wide enough where the FR mounts to hold all the hardware. The sides can be anything this way. You can get creative, like Conklin, with all kinds of flashy woodworking. You can go lighter by chambering the "wings", or just go with basswood or poplar to take some of the stress off your back due to all the hardwood in the 5 piece neck-through. The only consideration, or concession, in choosing the body wood is to make sure it balances with the neck. In that, I mean, you don't want a neck diver... This is the part where you have to explain to your children exactly what Daddy did with their college money... Since this is a deal breaker for you, the only suggestion I would make is to find the absolute best 7 string FR bridge you can find. This is a very critical piece in your design, and many things will hinge on this choice...no pun intended... Go big or stay home. How did you want to handle the painting on the neck-through? Interesting choice. I like it. If you really want to go sexy on this part, see if you can score a nice piece of birdseye maple for the fretboard. In fact, a mahogany and walnut 5 piece neck, with a birdseye maple fingerboard...and maybe a snakewood headstock plate sounds very sexy indeed... Here is where I think I can save you some misery and pain. Luthiers Mercantile International, Inc. sells fingerboard blanks, as well as a shop that can radius and cut all your fret lines, so all you have to do is open the box, glue it down and install the frets. I've used this service twice, and you can't do it cheaper, faster or more precise than the ones I got back. Hardware. Yes. Like I said above, now is the time to go as big as you can when it comes to buying everything but wood for this guitar. Before you grab your chest, let me explain. This is a custom guitar. There will only be one of these, and it's made to your specification. There will probably never be another guitar like this in your life. Again, go big or stay home. You don't have to buy everything brand new. eBay can be your friend here. Tuners, roller\locking nuts, preamps and pickups are popping up all the time. If you're patient you can save 50%-70% of what you'd pay for new. I have always found this to be a great way to drive a Ferrari on a Trebant budget. The 7 string FR...that's probably going to be a new purchase, as there just aren't that many out there that are any good. This purchase may or may not involve a trust fund to finance... I get the impression this is going to be a a sturdier and more enhanced 7 string with a bit of a vintage Yngwie-esque take. Stealth guitar. I like it. At this point I would encourage you to haunt every music store that sells 7 string guitars and play them all. Get a feel for what you like or don't like. Take notes. Start searching the net for similar builds, or for technical reviews of different designs. Learn all you can about 7 strings before any wood gets butchered. Done right, this will be a guitar that outlasts your fingers. This should be fun. More "Guitar Adventures with the Greekdude". I see a reality show in your future, young man. Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2016 13:27:10 GMT -5
Hey Cyn1,
you got the concept just fine! this is supposed to be smth between modern and yngwie, spot on!!!
About white I don't know, no idea. I am thinking painting the neck as well. I don't know.
About woods I'll do whatever you advice. If wenge is expensive, then why not maple/walnut? Is mahogany stiffer or lighter? Here it is considered rather "classy" and expensive. I am afraid mahogany will sound like LP and I want more the RG tone -> midrange.
This friend of mine is located 500km away in the border with our northern neighbors. He is very young but determined! Maybe I can get some cheap wood from him or some friends I have even more northern than him.
About trem, i'd love a fixed bridge, hmmmm but it would be a crime to not have a floyd on this particular one.
Will keep you posted my friend!
PS
young man me? I have double the years of the luthier!
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 2, 2016 17:06:25 GMT -5
- 7 string, RG or (RGA or RGD) shaped - 26.5" neck-trough, 5-piece maple/wenge (or equivalent) neck with titanium rods, double-action truss rod, very thin neck RG-type - Ash body or alder (basswood is ultra cool as far as tone is concerned but needs enhancement around bushings ) - Floyd Rose (or equivalent) - white body (parchment, cream-like) - maple fretboard - chrome hardware That is a neat project GreekD, loving it! Specs are not without reminding me a little of that Schecter Hellraiser 7 string - besides the shape, maple fretboard (that s an interesting idea too btw, and might look vintage indeed) Sup with titanum rods (is it lighter than carbon rods?)  Indeed with a cream white and maple neck it s gonna have that Yngwie vintage touch, could look not bad. Cool project, keep us posted! Thanks for the tip Cyn, interesting lead.. |
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 2, 2016 17:38:10 GMT -5
About woods I'll do whatever you advice. If wenge is expensive, then why not maple/walnut? Is mahogany stiffer or lighter? Here it is considered rather "classy" and expensive. I am afraid mahogany will sound like LP and I want more the RG tone -> midrange. The neck through is never going to give you the same tone or feel as the RG, regardless of what you make the neck out of. Think about it. You're taking 5 pieces of stable hard wood and creating a direct connection from the pegs to the bridge. You have eliminated the issue of energy loss at the bolt-on connection and into a softer body wood and allowed the string energy to transfer through in one unified entity. It's going to be brighter, more dynamic and your sustain will increase. I have a 6 string bass that is neck through and that thing will hold a note forever, but it is a fixed bridge and the strings run through the body. You can try chambering the wings, but that's a tricky proposition to tune in. Wherever you buy your wood, make sure it's completely cured. Maple, walnut and mahogany are all known for their stability once dried completely. Where you have to be careful is choosing woods that are stable and not prone to twisting and splitting as they cure. For example, in the Pacific NW we have a species known as madrone (Arbutus menziesii). It has nice clean tight graining and it's harder than most maples you'll find these days. Unfortunately, it has a nasty tendency to twist or split while it cures. At one time, Carvin used to store wood for years prior to actually fabricating anything with it. Along those lines, looking for architectural salvage business can lead to some really nice finds. It allows you the chance to score 100 year old wood with graining you'll never find again that is as stable as any piece of wood is likely to ever be. I understand why you want the Floyd on there. It's almost a requirement for your style. As with most designs, there is always a trade-off. A fixed tail would allow you to employ fanned frets on the fingerboard. It would improve tuning stability and sustain. It would also allow you to easily add MIDI capability to the guitar...but you're going to give yourself an injury playing Satriani on it... Decisions, decisions... So I see no need to reflect on my age in relation to your luthier... Keep in mind that this is your chance to get exactly what you want out of a guitar. Steal all that works and discard the rest. Happy Trails Cynical One EDIT: I had a really twisted thought... What about an 8 string, fixed bridge, fanned frets with Midi saddles...Ghost boards...maybe a pair of Bartolini soapbars...BMT on the preamp...now that's sexy... |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 8:34:42 GMT -5
That is a neat project GreekD, loving it! Specs are not without reminding me a little of that Schecter Hellraiser 7 string - besides the shape, maple fretboard (that s an interesting idea too btw, and might look vintage indeed) Sup with titanum rods (is it lighter than carbon rods?) Indeed with a cream white and maple neck it s gonna have that Yngwie vintage touch, could look not bad. Cool project, keep us posted! Thanks for the tip Cyn, interesting lead.. hey, you guessed RIGHT!!! Most extended range 7-string Ibbies and Schecters are 26.5" scale! And indeed if this schecter had maple board I would have sold the UV70p to buy this!! You ppl are in my mind!! About Titanium vs Carbon, I dunno, luthiers traditionally have used carbon reinforcement rods till Ibanez and ESP introduced the Titanium rods. I miss all the technicalities here, but Mac-Stewart say that Carbon needs epoxy gluing and has excellent weight/stiffness ratio whereas titanium has "shape memory", is very stiff, and enhances overtones/harmonics. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2016 8:47:14 GMT -5
EDIT: I had a really twisted thought... What about an 8 string, fixed bridge, fanned frets with Midi saddles...Ghost boards...maybe a pair of Bartolini soapbars...BMT on the preamp...now that's sexy... That would be a killer ... BASS!!! Kidding ... that would be very interesting indeed. I dunno, I have small-ish hands (unlike my son), van-halen category, I don't know if I can cope with the 8-string. What's ghost boards? Hmm I get what you say about mahogany and you are right. My all maple Carvin is so brittle and trebly it hurts! You are spot on once again. So you imagine this like : mahogany - walnut - mahogany - walnut - mahogany (the greater pieces being mahogany) ? |
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 3, 2016 18:40:47 GMT -5
That would be a killer ... BASS!!! Ouch... The improved ergonomics is supposed to be one of the perks with fanning the frets. I tried a 6 string bass once with fanned frets, and while it took about 10 minutes to get used to it, I was surprised at how natural it felt once I just relaxed with it. It's probably quicker to show you: You can read about it here: Ghost Modular Pickup SystemI've got a Fernandes sustainer guitar and fretless bass conversion that will eventually get this treatment. It is amazing what can be done with this system. I had a Gibson Ripper bass back in the 70's. Maple neck and solid maple body. It was articulate and clean, but had no bottom end whatsoever. I did a fretless conversion on it, which is where it shined, but I could never get used to the thinness of the low end. I believe it's the only bass dolphins can appreciate. It is now on the "damn, I sold that too soon" list after I saw Mike Dirnt playing one... Yep. That's how I'd do it. The Balkans still produce some very nice walnut, so you shouldn't have much problem finding some nice pieces. Speaking of local woods in your part of the world...figured or burl olive would make a beautiful top if you decided against painting the body...and it's a lot cheaper there than in the US. Sweet chestnut, several poplar and alder species all grow in your back yard. These would all make very good candidates for the body wood. The Mediterranean has some interesting hardwoods as well. After all, it is the Greekdude Stealth Guitar...might as well put a little Greece in there... Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by sumgai on Oct 3, 2016 23:45:44 GMT -5
I dunno if I can cope with the 8-string. The improved ergonomics is supposed to be one of the perks with fanning the frets. I tried a 6 string bass once with fanned frets, and while it took about 10 minutes to get used to it, I was surprised at how natural it felt once I just relaxed with it.
Years ago, I came across a feller who had a Dingwall bass with fanned frets. Played like a dream, but it cost something on the order of $3,000 USD.  A tad pricey, even now, let alone back then.
That led me to do some googling, and I found this: (Clue - it's a link, so treat it like one.)
The player who commissioned this goes by the name of Charlie Hunter (which is again, another link). He has several good videos, you should check 'em out.
BTW, cynical1, I see where Novax is now located in beautiful downtown Eugene, OR., complete with a small showroom. Fancy a road trip and a bit of a chat with The Man himself? 
sumgai
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 4, 2016 16:45:15 GMT -5
BTW, cynical1, I see where Novax is now located in beautiful downtown Eugene, OR., complete with a small showroom. Fancy a road trip and a bit of a chat with The Man himself? Already checked...110 miles due south of me. I would love to see the fixtures they use for the fanned fret fingerboards. Just to add to the current ergonomic insanity, ever seen a Torzal Twist  HTC1 |
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 4, 2016 20:42:17 GMT -5
It's probably quicker to show you: You can read about it here: Ghost Modular Pickup SystemI've got a Fernandes sustainer guitar and fretless bass conversion that will eventually get this treatment. It is amazing what can be done with this system. That thing is quite incredible.. 3 sounds on one string just by moving strumming hand? Have you try it? |
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 5, 2016 16:39:05 GMT -5
That thing is quite incredible.. 3 sounds on one string just by moving strumming hand? Have you try it? I've never used the Ghost system for anything more than the 5 minutes you can play with anything you're not buying at a trade show, but I have played with the Roland version on a few occasions. Sumgai should really handle the MIDI technical end of things, but there are, to me, some clear advantages and disadvantages to both the Ghost and Roland systems. The Ghost MIDI saddles can be easily retrofitted into almost any high end fixed bridge system. The Roland is still about the best option for Floydesque type bridges. The only hole you drill in the Ghost system is to get the small wires into the body. No additional MIDI pickup to mount and try to figure out the cleanest way to route the cable to Roland Borg guitar mounted controls. You are probably going to have to hog out some room for the Ghost boards, but it's minor, as the boards are quite small. Routing for the battery and your MIDI out connector is typical for both. There are some aftermarket very nice, well engineered, prewired MIDI harnesses that don't require the square corner routing\chiselling to fit to your guitar\bass. Having had to hog out the right angle corners to flush mount the Roland 14 pin jack I can highly recommend this option. As with any system, you're going to have those with zealous devotion to the system of their choice. Roland has been around for a long time and have a very good system. IMHO, from what I've heard, the Ghost system does seem to track better on the low end...more of a concern for bass players, granted. Another cool thing about the Ghost system is the Acousti-Phonic preamp: I heard this thing on a Fender Jazz bass back in Chicago. If you didn't know it was electric you'd never guess it wasn't a big unwieldy upright bass. That's what pumped me up about putting one of these into a fretless conversion project. This thing can also be chained in with the Hexpander MIDI board. One caveat on the Axon MIDI controller they use in the video. Sadly, what they were once, they are no longer today. Sumgai can fill in the blanks, as I'm getting too judgemental to remember this stuff anymore. I spend most of my time just recording at home now. To me, these systems offer so much potential in filling in the gaps and allowing for almost endless experimentation that it's almost a no-brainer that at least one guitar\bass in the arsenal should be equipped for MIDI. I guess I've derailed this thread far enough now. Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 6, 2016 14:07:47 GMT -5
Nice project Cyn - functional midi-basses are not common, i d like to hear your review when you re done.
- I like the acoustic side of these saddles indeed
- also the "string splitting" (Bass on low strings - piano on high ones) is nice
- although the part of the system that impresses me the most is the splitting of the "strumming area" in 3 different sounds (4"40' on video)
=> I cannot seem to find any info on this feature. Wondering how this is achieved, looks quite surreal actually..
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Post by sumgai on Oct 7, 2016 0:48:24 GMT -5
- although the part of the system that impresses me the most is the splitting of the "strumming area" in 3 different sounds (4"40' on video) => I cannot seem to find any info on this feature. Wondering how this is achieved, looks quite surreal actually..
That's a wholly owned technology of the Axon unit(s)*. The ability to use zones is dependent on the pitch-to-MIDI converter, not on the pickups/sensors themselves. Roland's GR-55 is only part way there, but at least it can handle picking dynamics in order to send MIDI messages for changes, that's a great improvement over previous generations of Roland units. (This is the Nuance feature.)
I'm sorry to have to say that my Google-fu is very weak on Axon's current state of affairs. It was first made by TerraTec, then taken over by Blue Chip Technologies, as far as I know. But everything I now find on the web says either that all of Axon's products have been discontinued, or they're really old reviews. My guess would be to visit the various forums dealing with this kind of thing, the most obvious being www.vguitarforums.com.
As always, I stand ready to answer questions of this nature, but I do try to not derail a topic that didn't start out with that particular intent.
HTH
sumgai
* Technically, I do know how this is done, it's all covered in patent filings... which pretty much explains why Roland (and others) don't bring out equipment that can do this too. But the time will come, I'm sure.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2016 9:02:03 GMT -5
Ppl modeling/MIDI/computer sound signal processing is indeed such an interesting topic. I am happy this thread gets attention and contributions in any form  In the meantime I am idle on this, didn't take the time to focus on what Cyn1 suggested about the templates. OTOH the e-friend of mine (a shepherd and sheep breeder from Macedonia) must have been busy as of late. So I am still searching lazily on the web for some 7-string kits. |
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 7, 2016 15:21:40 GMT -5
Sumgai -
Thanks for knocking the cobwebs off for me. I thought it was something terminal, but as I become more judgemental these days the details tend to fog over...
Strat80hm -
eBay is still your friend. They don't show up everyday, but the old Axon units are still out there. As sumgai points out, this feature will be available once the patent expires, or someone offers the right figure to the patent holder.
Greekdude -
I've been doing a little digging around for templates on the Internet myself. I noticed a few of these places offered custom work, which is what you're looking for. An e-mail to a few of these places may lead to what you want. Since all CNC files work from what are essentially just mapping points on an XYZ axis, it ain't hard to modify parameters. Usually it's just a flat upcharge to edit a file since the actual cutting of the templates is the same regardless of how many strings are on the instrument.
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 7, 2016 15:35:15 GMT -5
So this is real and Axon has it, wow..
Does this "split across string-length" technology have a name?
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 7, 2016 19:19:41 GMT -5
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Post by sumgai on Oct 7, 2016 22:38:06 GMT -5
^^^^ The author of that page/site, Joel Christian has been around for more than 20 years... meaning that he predates even me, on the MIDI scene! 
He used to keep things current, but I get the feeling that it's been more than a few days since he last spent time on his own site. Nonetheless, his stuff is a good resource for questions of this nature, and his Axon material seems to be right on. But be aware that his links on that page don't pan out - you can't sell what's not being manufactured, so Manny's Music and the others will come up short, sorry to say. (Unless they happen to have recently received a unit on trade-in.)
And at this very moment (10/7/2016), eBay has two units up for grabs, at what I might call decent prices.
HTH
sumgai |
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 8, 2016 16:26:29 GMT -5
Indeed, pretty old page haha.. i had seen the ebay offers yup, tempting, now that i ve discovered that string-splitting function - "...the ability to translate picking position (string distance from the bridge) into controller information to modify sounds or effect splits and crossfades.."
I m considering equipping an acoustic guitar with midi capacities.. but will open up a new post for that - this one s about GreekD 7 string beast!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2016 8:02:23 GMT -5
No problem pls go on!
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 9, 2016 14:13:03 GMT -5
I'm considering equipping an acoustic guitar with midi capacities... This is one of those times when I'd advise buying over modifying. In this case, the nylon string Godin Multiac ACS-SA: Steve Stevens uses one of these: He has a long history with Roland MIDI guitars and gear since Billy Idol. These Godin guitars are all over eBay between $700.00-$900.00 all day, everyday. Derail complete. Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 9, 2016 17:29:56 GMT -5
Haha, ok GreekD, let s crash your party here!
Good lead Cyn- i always loved what Steve Stevens manage to do with his mix of traditional+midi guitar approach - there s that rig rundown where he shows is very in depth, so instructive.
Q: why do you advice buying over modifying here?
Wont it be simple to fit a couple of piezo/midi saddle in a flamenco guitar?
Note:
That be for studio use only, i m not bringing any midi on stage anytime soon (hmm..never say never..)
I m not a big fan of those thin Godin nylon
I wish i could enter midi datas with a full-bodied guitar
I hear you about the fact that the Godin comes with pre-installed 13-pin output for 700-900 used, but wont i be able to get similar result for less? (I m DIY cheap butt mofo, dont forget)
The most pricey part of the setup is still going to be the box converting 13-pin datas into midi anyway, right?
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 9, 2016 19:32:32 GMT -5
Wont it be simple to fit a couple of piezo/midi saddle in a flamenco guitar? You need a way to interpret the input from the saddles out to a MIDI port. Look at the Graphtech diagram:  There's that pesky Hexpander preamp board. If you just don't like the Godin model, you are stuck doing it yourself. No one does it better for the money than Godin, though, IMHO. By the time you're done you'll be less out of pocket than by purchasing the Godin, but it's not as much as you'd think for all the work that goes into making the conversion. Remember, the standard "bar" type piezo most acoustic\electrics come with will not work worth a damn as you need to isolate the individual strings as much as possible to preserve the 6 individual signals. There's always some crosstalk in any system, but the standard bar acoustic piezo pickup would resemble looking for lost ear rings in the Mississippi. Notice how the Godin has individual saddles for each string:  I did a quick look to see who actually sells these bridges in the aftermarket. There are a few, but from what I saw, they ain't cheap. Sharpen your Google-Fu... And yes, Virginia, the actual Roland or Axon box is where most of the coin goes in these setups. I have an M-Audio Delta 1010LT soundcard that allows two MIDI inputs. In this case I could go directly into the computer to any MIDI capable software sequencer\synthesizer...which is probably the way I'll go, as I don't play out anymore. Greekdude: I have to correct a statement I made earlier. Graphtech DOES offer a Floyd Rose MIDI capable bridge: PN-0080-C0 : Ghost LB63 Floyd Rose Style Bridge - Chrome  It'll run you around around $250.00-$300.00, but with the Graphtech boards it's a plug and play option. They also sell the individual Floyd Rose replacement saddles. ...just to drag this thing part of the way back to the rails... Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by sumgai on Oct 9, 2016 20:49:46 GMT -5
Long shory stort, c1 hit the nail on the head - crosstalk between the strings is a game destroyer, if a build doesn't take this critical detail into account. Godin has been doing this for years, and as far as they're concerned, they're still only "good enough", meaning that they think there's still room for improvement. No other acoustic maker has invested a fraction of the same time and effort into getting an instrument nearly as far along the road as Godin.
That said, I concur with c1 - it's probably gonna cause fewer Excedrin Headaches to simply bite the bullet and squander some of Mrs. Ohm's butter-and-egg money on a used unit than to try this yourself. Unless you have a complete guitar building workshop in your backyard, then I don't think you're gonna get results that will make you smile. And even used, any outfit's hex pickup (not a MIDI pickup, such a thing doesn't exist) and their attendant circuit board(s) is gonna cost you at least a third of that $700 to $900 that c1 mentioned... probably more. It's your time and money, no denying that, but if you do go for it, I'm gonna start a betting poll as to how long before you give up in disgust.
Now, I have to say that there are after-market devices which are made to fit down into the bridge saddle slot, and they may do an acceptable job, that'd be up to you to judge whether or not such a doohickey meets your criteria. Google for 'acoustic hex pickup' or 'acoustic guitar hex pickup' and see what happens. (You might substitute 'hexaphonic' in there instead of simply 'hex', that might get you more pages to consider...)
After scratching my head for a few moments, I want to bring you this final thought: If you isolate each bridge saddle in order to reduce crosstalk, you are also isolating that saddle from conducting sound vibrations through the bridge and into the guitar's body.  What's that do for your acoustic tone, eh? 
Food for thought, no? 
sumgai
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2016 3:37:54 GMT -5
This Godin is a lovely shred stick. Cyn1, funny thing yesterday I was searching the forum for this "neil young" song about powder finger, when I stumped across some threads about spagheti western where you posted vids by this Steve Stevens guy, he is quite good. (as most heavy rockers from the spandex hairspray era ) |
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Post by cynical1 on Oct 10, 2016 12:50:54 GMT -5
...this Steve Stevens guy, he is quite good... If you've got time to kill, check out Black Light Syndrome and Situation Dangerous. Terry Bozzio, Tony Levin, Steve Stevens. HTC1 |
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Since you're going with a neck through design you just need to make the bridge end of the 5-piece wide enough where the FR mounts to hold all the hardware. The sides can be anything this way. You can get creative, like Conklin, with all kinds of flashy woodworking. You can go lighter by chambering the "wings", or just go with basswood or poplar to take some of the stress off your back due to all the hardwood in the 5 piece neck-through.
A tad pricey, even now, let alone back then.
What's that do for your acoustic tone, eh? 
