a90s2cs
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Post by a90s2cs on Feb 2, 2017 15:12:51 GMT -5
WiringDiagram3.pdf (158.45 KB) So here's what I came up with for a guitar I'm building that only has one humbucker in the bridge position. I put this set up together to maximize tonal variety from a single pickup. I'm hoping to get some feedback on wether its a solid design or if it will even work. Thanks
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Post by reTrEaD on Feb 2, 2017 16:01:17 GMT -5
It should work, but not particularly well. I think you'll be very unhappy with the volume control.
We normally draw pots from the backside, as you would see them with the shafts pointed away from you. From that point of view, you'll have the following results:
1 - The Volume control will be at maximum volume when the pot is rotated counter-clockwise. To make matters worse, connecting the input to the volume control to the wiper is not a good thing. You'll have more effect of dulling the tone than you do reducing the volume, as you rotate from maximum.
I suggest connecting the ground to the right-most terminal on the volume control, the orange wire to the left-most, and the red wire that leads to the output jack will connect to the wiper (middle lug) of the volume control.
Also, the treble bleed network you drew is the Kinman variation. It's better than just a capacitor, but I believe the version with the capacitor and resistor in parallel is better. In any case, that should connect between the wiper (middle lug) and hot (left-most lug) of the volume control.
2 - The tone (treble-cut) will operate as expected if wired as you've drawn it. Fully clockwise = no cut. The jumpers on the push-pull aren't necessary, but they don't hurt anything. You might find it more convenient to skip the jumpers and use the other lugs of the P-P switch as places to connect the ground end of the capacitors. Just a thought.
3 - The bass contour is wired correctly. Clockwise will cut the bass.
4 - The Series / Coil cut / Parallel switch will work. However, please note that minitoggles work such that when the toggle is down, the lugs at the top are the ones doing the work. As you've drawn it, when the toggle is down, you will be in series mode.
Also, the coil cut position has the South coil being chosen. If your south coil is closest to the bridge, that will be the more brittle sounding of the two coils. Personally, I prefer using the coil that's farther away from the bridge as a single. But your mileage may vary.
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a90s2cs
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Post by a90s2cs on Feb 2, 2017 17:20:39 GMT -5
Thank you very much, that is just the kind of feedback I was looking for. I guess I should have mentioned that its also a left-handed guitar.
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Post by newey on Feb 2, 2017 19:29:28 GMT -5
a90s2cs-
Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!
Sorry, but I decided to move your post. It was a close call, since it is indeed a complete diagram, but you were also asking questions, so it's more appropriate in the general wiring area. If you wish, feel free to repost a final version in the schematics section for the reference of others.
ReTrEaD's response as to the pot wiring was based on the assumption of a right-handed axe. If it's a lefty, your volume control will work in a left-handed fashion and is fine (other than the wiper, as RT mentioned). However, your tones will be righty as shown, again, with the assumption we're looking from the backside of the pickguard.
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a90s2cs
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Post by a90s2cs on Feb 2, 2017 20:57:20 GMT -5
So I revised it.
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Post by reTrEaD on Feb 3, 2017 16:39:49 GMT -5
Your wiring looks correct for having reverse taper pots in all three locations.
The treble bleed component values should be changed. I'll suggest a resistor value of 120k and a capacitor value of 1nF (1000 pF)
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