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Post by solderburn on Oct 23, 2018 0:24:51 GMT -5
I apologize for this long post. This is my first post on this forum, and I have to say I'm humbled by the knowledge, creativity, generosity i see here on Gearnutz2. There are so many cool and helpful modifications shared by truly brilliant folks here. Big respect to the major contributors and those who keep this wonderful site going. Could someone please post a link for donations to this site? I'd like to make a donation if possible. I can't afford much right now, but i know every little bit helps. I've been lurking for a while, and not until now have i had a good reason to reach out to this community: I'm in the midst of heavily modifying a Squire Mustang Bullet as a fun project with my little brother, and we're aiming to get a wide array of tones available through pick-up selection. Some other details of the build: It has a stetsbar vibrato tailpiece (super ugly), but I'm hoping this project turns out to be a shredder with some crazy tones when it's done. The PUs are cobbled together with the bridgePU and neckPU being from a squier jaguar, and the middlePU is a RW/RP middle PU taken from a squire bass VI, so all the pickups have a jaguar style "claw" enclosure. Other features will include Arcade style killswitch in the place of the volume knob, series/parallel toggle in place of the tone knob. And Jaguar upper control plate using the roller knobs as the main volume(1MEG) and tone(1MEG) and a strangle switch in place of the original "rhythm/lead circuit" switch. I'm relatively new to doing mods on my guitars, but at this point i feel like although i don't understand the 'why', i can still follow directions well and solder the necessary connections. Just to give you an idea of my current level: my small list of electrical accomplishments include: building some Surfybear FET reverb kits, soldering in new jacks and pots on guitars, replacing damaged pick-ups, and series/parallel mod on Jaguar. So i know a little, but i must say this site has inspired me to try to make this guitar a total tone monster by getting the most out of the pickups and switches. I've always loved the sound of guitars with all three pickups on. I also really dig the in/out of phase tones. I'm not using any of the Mustang's original electronic components and have started anew with parts from other guitars and new switches according to the diagram below. So far i have the pick-up switching circuitry wired up per a diagram by Andrew Roberts i found online. It's seems to be a variation of Brian May's Red Special guitar wiring. (I recently bought a Brian May limited edition in Baby blue, and i must recommend these guitars!) As mentioned above... i would also like to add (in true guitarnutz style) a Kill switch, and strangle switch to all of this crazy mess. Front layout. Right now everything is temporarily mounted on a cardstock mock up of the pickguard. I'm just waiting to finalize the electronics before we order the real one. Here's a pic of the claw connection i'm unsure about. In a previous series/parallel mod i did on my Jaguar it instructed me to sever this connection. I wasn't sure why it needed to be done, or if it would need to be done in this case. Worst scenario: i hook it up before cutting it then if there are any issues i could cut it. Here are the instructions for that mod that i was referring to... linkAnd my main reason for this post is that i was hoping someone could help me by drawing in the proper connections over this drawing i made. I have the complicated PU selection part soldered thanks to that diagram, but i've been trying to draw in the the rest of the connections to the these components and i know each of my drawings are wrong because i get very mixed up. So if it's not too much trouble, maybe someone here could complete the circuit. I'd be grateful for your help. Thank you for your time, Dave
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Post by thetragichero on Oct 23, 2018 8:26:11 GMT -5
hey guy, to our forum! not in front of a pc to help with the wiring diagram but I can weigh in on the claw: if it is like most tele/covered humbucker pickups, that solder joint connects the metal claw to the pickup lead that goes to ground in normal parallel wiring (I think black wire is pretty close to standard). (relatively) big piece of metal being what it is (basically an antenna), ground is a great place for it to go... except when you're wiring out of phase or series, where that big horkin metal bit is injecting your sweeeeeet guitar tones with the local AM station (I had a homemade fuzz face that really spoke to me... in Spanish from a talk radio station). so severing those connections and soldering wires from the claws to circuit ground (usually a central location such as the back of a pot or a star grounding point) is something that you'll want to do any idea of the tonality or how hotly wound each pickup is? generally you'll want the hottest wound pickup at the bridge (a shot where you'll pick up less of the string vibration and a lot of treble) and the weakest wound pickup at the neck now that I've further complicated this for ya...
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 23, 2018 10:11:03 GMT -5
now that I've further complicated this for ya... And unfortunately I'm about to add to that... And Jaguar upper control plate using the roller knobs as the main volume(1MEG) and tone(1MEG) and a strangle switch in place of the original "rhythm/lead circuit" switch. How close do you want that to be to the original Jaguar lead circuit? It's a strange one. Firstly the strangle switch is wired prior to the tone control, meaning it behaves interactively with it -- as the tone is lowered the cutoff frequency of the strangle high pass filter is increased, cutting more mids. The other peculiarity is the presence of a 56k resistor across lugs 2 & 3 of the tone control itself -- this is shorted with the tone control fully up, but is introduced in series with the signal (again prior to what one would normally consider the tone control) as the control is rolled down., this changes the response of the control quite significantly cutting a much wider range of frequencies, thus acting a bit more like a volume control. At the very lower limit we have roughly an additional 53k series resistance (56k in parallel with the 1Meg pot) making the tone control's low pass cutoff frequency much lower than one might expect with a 10nF tone capacitor.
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Post by solderburn on Oct 23, 2018 10:21:43 GMT -5
Hi thetrajichero! Happy to be here. Thanks for your fast and helpful response about the pick-up and claw question, much appreciated.
I'm confident this bridge PU has the highest output out of these 3, but the neckPU might be hotter than the middle PU. Since the neck PU and Bridge PU are from the same guitar i know they are well balanced and sound good together, and the middle PU is from a Squier Bass 6. I would've just used a full set of the Bass VI PUs, but previously my cat peed on the that bridge PU from that set, so now i'm left with what i'm currently planning on using. Maybe i'll keep looking for a complete set of the Squier Bass VI PUs. They seem more similar to original Jaguar PUs compared to the Squier Jaguar "vintage modified" PUs and when they're available they are very cheap. I have a basic multi-meter and i'll see what readings i can get from the PUs once i get home from work.
Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge.
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Post by solderburn on Oct 23, 2018 10:35:20 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply Yogi B! I'd like to retain the same interactivity as the original Jaguar lead circuit. I have that 56k resistor that i can add. Thank you for clarifying about this esoteric circuit, i kept trying to follow more traditional examples when i was trying to figure this out and i was getting more confused the more i looked at various diagrams. Good to know that it is a strange circuit. Very helpful information!
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Post by newey on Oct 23, 2018 18:39:48 GMT -5
First of all, HELLO AND WELCOME TO G-NUTZ2!Well, have you tried it since then? Maybe the stuff has some magical tone mojo, about which you could then expound in a lengthy blog . . . Trage and Yogi seem to have you on the right track, so I won't step in at this point, other than to say "Welcome A'Board".
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Post by solderburn on Oct 23, 2018 23:12:49 GMT -5
Greetings Newey! Thanks for the warm welcome. I appreciate all the help so far, i feel refreshed.
Haha. No, i think that bridge PU was thrown away, it was my brother's. And it stunk. It was fried. I tried cleaning it with deoxit and it sat for months and still didn't work. Maybe the proper mojo just hadn't bloomed yet. I'll never know.
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 24, 2018 7:17:09 GMT -5
There is another weirdness that I forgot about, since I was concentrating on the Jaguar lead circuit, that is: the rhythm circuit uses linear taper pots.
That in itself isn't a problem, but because a linear taper is symmetric it allows the controls to be wired 'backwards' with no effect to the sweep of the control. Normally when a pot is rotated fully clockwise (when viewed from the top) that's the full volume or full treble position, in the traditional Jaguar rhythm circuit this is reversed, i.e. spinning the rollers towards the bridge (which is clockwise) lowers the volume and treble.
Normal logarithmic taper pots would require the controls to work in the opposite direction in order to avoid the sweep of the control becoming an on/off switch. This may or may not be an issue for you. Using reverse log pots allows 'normal' operation, but you may have difficulties to acquiring them.
This is redundant for the volume pot if you're using a linear taper there (which is down to preference), but the tone pot definitely should be one of the two varieties of logarithmic.
(The original rhythm circuit got away with a linear tone pot because it only had a maximum resistance of 50k. This is okay in the context of the separate circuit specifically designed to sound darker, but is not something you would likely want when limited to only a single set of controls.)
So the question is: what taper are the pots you have?
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Post by solderburn on Oct 24, 2018 10:43:16 GMT -5
Yogi B, thanks for taking the time to share this great info. I appreciate your patience and ability to explain it so well.
I believe both my volume and tone pots are linear taper.
I know both are 1 MEG as i was trying to replicate the lead circuit, but of course still trying to fit into the place of the rhythm circuit. I couldn't find any logarithmic 1 MEG mini pots, especially any with the right shaft dimensions to fit in the upper jaguar control plate. I know i've made this complicated for myself.
I'd rather have acquired a 1MEG logarithmic mini pot, but i couldn't find any, so i settled on a 1 MEG mini pot with linear taper with the idea that i was most concerned with how it sounds when the tone is on 10. As you stated above, since the Jaguar rhythm circuit's original tone pot calls for 50k, which gives a darker tone even when not engaged, i wanted to avoid that as i prefer the 'cleaner' sound of the 1 MEG.
When it comes down to it, I'm more concerned with how the tone pot sounds when it's on 10, than how it rolls. I hope i can still use the tone pot that i already have which i believe is linear taper. I bought it on ebay and the seller didn't list if it was linear or logarithmic, but i assumed it was linear since during my initial search i couldn't find any logarithmic pots that would physically fit in that weird housing. Maybe i need to keep looking or modify my 'design'. haha
My end goal is to have it sound the same as a Jaguar lead circuit, at least with the volume and tone on 10.
Thanks again for lending your brain power and experience. It's a pleasure for me to learn these details that make up our guitars.
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 24, 2018 16:38:27 GMT -5
I couldn't find any logarithmic 1 MEG mini pots, especially any with the right shaft dimensions to fit in the upper jaguar control plate. That's something else I neglected to think about, that the USA spec roller pots use specialised 4mm shafts, or maybe that's 5/32", obviously with matching holes in the roller wheels too. Others use the standard 6mm shaft mini pots, which have a wider range of values and tapers commonly available, I believe the mounting bracket may also be slightly different. It's therefore probably impossible to find ready made alternatives for sale, as, in general, Jaguar/Jazzmaster wiring tends to be either pretty much 100% true-to-vintage, or something radically different, usually ditching the separate rhythm circuit in its entirety. Well you can still use it, but there won't be much of a sweep at all from 10 down to about 1, virtually no difference will be audible, then of a sudden all the treble will be gone at once. With the roller wheels this might be a little more controllable than with a regular knob, but it'll still be very touchy.
I'm struggling to find detailed dimensions of the 4mm shaft pots, but I think the body, or more importantly the resistive element, of the pot is identical to that other 16mm miniature pots (of the same manufacturer). Can anyone confirm this?
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Post by solderburn on Oct 24, 2018 21:09:07 GMT -5
Yogi B said... I agree.
Okay, thanks for explaining that. It's fine with me, i think i'll still use the linear pots. The tone knob is on 10 almost all the time. If we really miss the practical sweep then maybe i'll reconfigure things in the future.
I've come upon 3 mini pots with the same general size except for the shafts. Although i've never opened one up to see the actual resistive element. I know that Squire and Fender each use different mini pot shaft sizes on Jaguars. And I believe Fender uses two different shaft sizes, depending on where it's made, i believe the ones made outside of USA have the thicker shafts. I just happened to be using parts from a USA Jaguar wiring kit so i have the wheels that will fit the thinner shaft.
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 25, 2018 10:14:17 GMT -5
I forgot the most important bit of that last section:(In case you didn't get where I was going with that). It's fine with me, i think i'll still use the linear pots. Okay then, all your waiting on now is that diagram...
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Post by solderburn on Oct 25, 2018 13:02:37 GMT -5
I forgot the most important bit of that last section:(In case you didn't get where I was going with that). It's fine with me, i think i'll still use the linear pots. Okay then, all your waiting on now is that diagram... TOO COOL! Thank you so much, Yogi B!! This is awesome! Such a nice diagram! I'll wire it up this weekend, if all goes as planned then i'll have this done before my little brother's birthday in November. I've actually been savoring this project since February. Haha And it's interesting, the part i thought wouldn't be as challenging was quite difficult for me. I came to the right place! And i did see where you were going with your hint of opening up the pot to replace the resistive element with one from a mini pot that is reverse logarithmic. I really appreciate how you and the others on this site really help us learn things. It's really an honor for me to interact with this community. I will practice the art of 'pot element swapping' and once i get it down then i plan to change out that linear pot. But for right now i don't trust myself. That's next level. Thank you very much for opening the doors and shedding light how you do. Once this beast is making noise then i'll post a video of my brother playing it. Thanks to all for your welcomes and ponderings. It's a total pleasure to be here.
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Post by newey on Oct 25, 2018 15:57:12 GMT -5
SB- Sorry, I meant to respond to your original post but neglected to do so, specifically: We have (so far) not needed or accepted any donations here. Our hosting is free through ProBoards, so we don't really have any expenses. Things may change in the future, though, and we have looked into a number of different options if it becomes necessary to fund things in the future. So, on behalf of the staff here, we appreciate the offer but not necessary to do so.
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Post by solderburn on Oct 29, 2018 12:37:49 GMT -5
Update: I tried wiring the whole guitar together but it's not working as it should. I have full confidence in the wiring diagram i received in this thread, it seems my switching portion must have issues. Looks like i'll be savoring this project for longer than i anticipated.
Feeling totally defeated. Although i assumed it wouldn't work the first time, anyway. I must take time to regroup my thoughts and muster some confidence and patience.
I haven't strung it up, i've just been tapping the magnets with a screwdriver to see what comes through. Seems like i probably wired all my switches upside down. Plus loud humming and quiet humming in some positions, and what seems like no sound at all in some positions.
Thinking i'll just have to buy another $100 worth of on/on/on switches since i don't like reusing pieces with old solder all over them, and these were tough enough for me to solder when they were new and clean.
The circuit with the tone, volume, strangle, and killswitch seem to work as they should, i can hear them affecting the 'noise' coming from my poorly put together pick-up switching system.
There are no obvious visual clues that i can see, i've re-checked numerous times that things are where they should be. Next step will be testing connections with a multimeter.
Oh boy.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 29, 2018 13:54:17 GMT -5
Sorry to hear that! but I suggest to just take a breath!
Complex wiring like that almost never works first time. It's usual that some troubleshooting is needed, and we can help. You will need a multimeter, which will be a good $15 investment (for a basic but perfectly adequate one)
We should also review that wiring diagram for the switching since it is not 'GN2 QA stamped'. We have similar designs here though (I did a couple of Brian May series/parallel ones).
Your switches are likely to be fine and not needing to be replaced. They can be checked with that meter.
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Post by solderburn on Oct 29, 2018 14:32:38 GMT -5
Sorry to hear that! but I suggest to just take a breath! Complex wiring like that almost never works first time. It's usual that some troubleshooting is needed, and we can help. You will need a multimeter, which will be a good $15 investment (for a basic but perfectly adequate one) We should also review that wiring diagram for the switching since it is not 'GN2 QA stamped'. We have similar designs here though (I did a couple of Brian May series/parallel ones). Your switches are likely to be fine and not needing to be replaced. They can be checked with that meter. Thank you for you encouragement and advice, JohnH, it's a pleasure to hear from you. It's totally encouraging to know that folks here are willing to help me with this challenging project. In fact it's because of this forum that i even tried to do this project. I do have a multimeter, just the cheapest kind, but i plan on getting one with an easier to read screen since it I think i'll be needing it a lot. And i think "a good investment" is a bit of an understatement. You guys are too nice. haha If I'm not mistaken, i believe the switching diagram i was trying to follow was a variation of one of your Brian May inspired circuits. And i'll dive back into the ones i saw here on Guitarnutz2. Yes, i agree. I need to take some deep breaths and proceed to take it one small step at a time. I'll definitely test before i buy new toggles. Here it is. I put 'liquid electric tape' on anything that i thought looked exposed, so i guess my first step will be trying to peel that stuff off. I'll probably not use that product again on guitars. Smells terrible and pretty messy.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 29, 2018 15:21:12 GMT -5
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Post by solderburn on Oct 29, 2018 15:57:06 GMT -5
Sweet, thanks! Those are the exact threads i was looking for! Perfect.
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 29, 2018 18:49:18 GMT -5
We should also review that wiring diagram for the switching since it is not 'GN2 QA stamped'. Well, looking over it again I come to the same conclusion as before: almost everything works as intended, the exception being with the series/parallel toggle in the centre position switching the middle pickup to "off" ( Edit: and the neck to either "on" or "oop") prevents the bridge pickup from being grounded when switched on (in either phase orientation), leaving it hanging from hot. (Thankfully, QCoils agrees). solderburn, looking back I don't see you explicitly stating whether you were using an on/on/on switch for the series/parallel toggle, in order to realise that centre position. In either case it is still a fairly obscure problem, not something that would be found almost immediately. Based on your reaction something more extreme is wrong. Unfortunately, your images aren't high enough resolution for me see what you've actually soldered. However my first question wouldn't be the soldering anyway, but rather whether you checked that the centre connections of the on/on/on switches you used matched those shown in the diagram (with 4PDTs there's at least four variations of centre position I've seen, well five counting on/off/on). I got bit by that once and now make a point of checking whenever it could be an issue, prior to any soldering.
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Post by solderburn on Oct 29, 2018 19:42:26 GMT -5
We should also review that wiring diagram for the switching since it is not 'GN2 QA stamped'. Well, looking over it again I come to the same conclusion as before: almost everything works as intended, the exception being with the series/parallel toggle in the centre position switching the middle pickup to "off" prevents the bridge pickup from being grounded when switched on (in either phase orientation), leaving it hanging from hot. (Thankfully, QCoils agrees). solderburn , looking back I don't see you explicitly stating whether you were using an on/on/on switch for the series/parallel toggle, in order to realise that centre position. In either case it is still a fairly obscure problem, not something that would be found almost immediately. Based on your reaction something more extreme is wrong. Unfortunately, your images aren't high enough resolution for me see what you've actually soldered. However my first question wouldn't be the soldering anyway, but rather whether you checked that the centre connections of the on/on/on switches you used matched those shown in the diagram (with 4PDTs there's at least four variations of centre position I've seen, well five counting on/off/on). I got bit by that once and now make a point of checking whenever it could be an issue, prior to any soldering. Yogi B, thanks for your insight! And thanks for re-checking the diagram too. I have a feeling it might be the configuration of the switches i used. I'll try to find a link to the ones i have. I remember when i was shopping being overwhelmed by the amount of variations of switches available. And Yes, i did use an on/on/on for the series/parallel toggle. I used the same kind as the ones i used for the PU on/off and in/out phase switches. I will post more pics with better detail. I'm also going to string it up then really try to hear what's going on while i'll write down a description and what i think is happening in each position. I'm getting some confidence back now. Thanks guys. I need to learn to chill out, I immediately started sweating bullets when the guitar first didn't work as it should, even though i anticipated issues. haha
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Post by solderburn on Oct 29, 2018 20:57:55 GMT -5
Here's a link to the same kind of switches i have: www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4-Pole-Toggle-Switch-On-On-On-12-Terminals-/392074145480?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0About this product Product Identifiers GTI N0645208007507 BRAND Allparts MPN EP4362000 UPC 0645208007507 eBay Product ID (ePID)1300427840 Product Key Features ModelON-ON-On 4 Pole, Toggle Switch But I didn't see anything specifying how the center connection is configured. I noticed on the diagram i followed there are red arrows between the lugs, i wasn't sure exactly what they signified, perhaps my switches run differently. Close up pics of my work coming as soon as possible.
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Post by solderburn on Oct 30, 2018 12:54:15 GMT -5
I'm fairly confident i followed the diagram correctly as i really took my time when putting it together, first with a model then "dry wiring" and also re-checked it several times after i soldered it. Sorry for the 'Frosting'. It's embarrassing actually. I don't think i use that again. And i understand even though these are clear pics and the resolution is probably okay, it's very hard, pretty much impossible, to tell where things are coming from or going to due to the bundling. If need be i can undo it and try to pry the wires back for a better view of the connections. Although it's hard to see, i think the wiring is accurate to the diagram. My biggest doubt is about the type of switches i used. I have a feeling i'll be re-doing almost all of this. I've haven't yet had the time to properly sit down and make a description list of the symptoms and related positions. Will do hopefully tomorrow. This part seems to be functioning as expected. This is the series/parallel on/on/on switch which is wired as per the diagram Pick-up switches. NeckPU selector is to the left and bridge to right.
Side view of the PU selector switches. Thank you, to all the folks here that are taking the time to help.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 30, 2018 14:26:38 GMT -5
Looks like your wiring has been decorated for Christmas!
The simplest best most informative tests you could do now are with the multi meter. Set volume and tone to max, strangle to normal mode. Set the meter to a 20k Ohms range (use 200k if it goes off scale) connected between hot and ground at the jack. Then just methodically cycle through each setting of pickups on or off, in series or parallel. That's 16 (out of the possible 81) readings, write down and post them here.
As you do them, just confirm that 'on in phase' and 'on out of phase' never makes any difference to the resistance. Don't worry about the middle setting of series/parallel, we will consider that later.
In one setting, try sweeping the tone pot, it should make no difference. Then sweep the volume pot from max (as readings above) to min. The resistance should rise to around 250k (if you have a 1M pot, use the 2M ohms scale) then fall to zero at min volume.
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 30, 2018 16:27:54 GMT -5
Via a bit of contrived searching, via Googling the part number printed on the side of the switches F4TPA11 and also F4TPA01 (the small lever version), leads me to this datasheet ( Edit: updated link 2021-10-23). It's in Japanese but the important information is still discernible, and can be seen towards the very end of the images, though I'll attempt to recreate the relevant bit here as best as possible. To the right of the page is the terminal numbering reference (as viewed looking from the bottom): 1 4 7 10
2 5 8 11
3 6 9 12
The text below the switch indicates that this side (i.e. one adjacent to terminals 3, 6, 9 & 12.) is where the keyway groove (in the switches mounting thread) is positioned. In the adjacent table, under F4TPA1[ ] , we find that in the centre position terminals (1, 2), (5, 6), (8, 9), and (10, 11) are connected. Visually: |1| 4 7 |10| | | | | |2| |5| |8| |11| | | | | 3 |6| |9| 12
N.B. the orientation of the switch is important (it doesn't have rotational symmetry, unlike those in aroberts8089's diagram), hence being sure to orientate the switch in relation to its keyway is important.
RE the frosting I recently saw images from a guitar mod shop (who've done work for some notable names) that applies what appears to be the same black goop that you might find on pedals, seemingly as standard on their rewires, albeit much more liberally than what you have done here. I'd be interested to see if they've ever give their explanation for this, again there is a language barrier, so it'd have to come via Google translate. Though, based on the website, itself, which stops you from right clicking on the page or selecting text, I can hazard a guess. I'm definitely not advocating this, as you immediately discovered it's against your best interests should something need changing/replacing down the line -- in my (limited) experience issues of shorting out usually come from putting too much in tight, shielded, cavities: to which the answer is electricians tape; the normal, non-liquid, variety thereof.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 30, 2018 16:53:41 GMT -5
Good catch Yogi!
That arrangement will partly stuff the working of the original diagram! ARobert assumes a switch that,in middle position connects down-up-down-up, where this one is apparently up-down-down-up.
But still do the tests above, which do not use middle positions. We now will not expect the reverse phase settings to work, but the others may work fine.
Check that, then hopefully the total fix will be just a couple of wires swaps on each switch
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Post by solderburn on Oct 30, 2018 21:03:06 GMT -5
WOW! JohnH and Yogi B, thank you for giving me this vital information! Without your insights and guidance I'd be lost in this project. SUPER helpful!
I'll start doing the testing soon and report back with the 16 readings. Thanks for the great test instructions!
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Post by solderburn on Nov 9, 2018 2:18:25 GMT -5
At first i thought I was doing something wrong with the multi meter, I'm getting readings of 0 on every setting. The number fluctuates then drops down to O. When i touch the tips of the multimeter together i also get 0. When the tips are apart I get a reading of 1. It's set to 20k and the same thing happens in the 200k setting. I'm touching the red tip to hot, and the black tip to ground. Then when i tried checking a spare neck PU that i had sitting around i got a reading of 6.08, so it seems the multimeter is working. The rules of this forum don't allow me to express how messed up my wiring situation is.
I'm not going to use these toggle switches. It'll be too messy to move things around, I'm going to try to re-do this with the correct switches i thought i had in the first place. I appreciate the idea of making these switches work but i don't see myself being able to fix it due to the complexity of the problem and my frustrating inability to even get a simple reading.
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Post by solderburn on Nov 9, 2018 2:33:08 GMT -5
Could someone please recommend a mini toggle switch or slide switch that would work in this situation as intended in the diagram? As YogiB stated before, it seems I managed to pick up some that were "up, down, down, up" instead of the ones i need which are "up, down, up, down".
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Post by thetragichero on Nov 9, 2018 8:22:07 GMT -5
that multimeter looks like one I got free with a coupon at harbor freight. I'm pretty sure I trashed a perfectly good pickup because it gave me a faulty zero resistance reading (meaning that there was a break somewhere inside the coil). I don't think the meter even turns on for me anymore
what I'm getting at is that a cheap meter may create more headaches than solve problems (even my $20 radio shack meter gives faulty readings instead of tell me that the battery is almost dead...)
beyond that, make sure batteries are good and that you're clicked on the right range (otherwise it may give a faulty reading)
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