don't know if they come finished or not, but I have a birdseye maple with jumbo frets on my jazzmaster and had a j neck on my bass looks like they have a compound radius that should be close to what you're looking for
Post by thetragichero on Aug 24, 2019 22:23:44 GMT -5
i use this: www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Clear-Gloss-Water-Based-Interior-Polyurethane-200041H/100193658 sprayed through a LVLP spray gun (set to <20psi at the gun, fan off) attached to my compressor. I'm a bit heavy-handed so I'll do one side at a time and lay horizontally to dry because i get the least amount of runs that way. each coat i spray until it looks kinda opaque. this stuff dries super fast so if you do lighter coats than i do you could probably spray every 20-30 minutes or so. i do it about every hour/when i remember to. build a few coats, let dry for a few hours and wet sand with 400 grit. if there are any shiny parts then it's not level and I've gotta build more coats. if there aren't, i still diary a few more coats. let dry for 24-48 hours/when i have time to finish sand. wet sand 400-500-600-800-1200-2000, dry off and hit with 0000 steel wool. then it's time to get my buffing mitt out. rubbing compound, polishing compound, and finally swirl remover (all purchased at auto parts section). then i hit it auto wax and it's ready to rock!
not hard it expensive (besides getting the spray setup... you could certainly wipe/brush on this stuff but spraying is so much easier), just time consuming
edit: there are folks that tout a thin tung/danish/whatever oil, but a hard waterproof finish taken down by hand will give you just the fastest surface ever... and look pretty!) only downside is that it's perfectly clear, so no yellowing like most finishes. I've had to experiment with dyes for maple necks
I got this spare body , a guard wired up with Super Seven Switching. Binary pickup selection with 7 switches. A couple EMG-HZ 03 and 04 screwed into a black pearl plate on 500k Alpha's. In my junk drawer there was a TBX tone kit rolling around. Threw that in. 5 staunch springs, and a FATT brass block hold the bridge. Suspended on a sexy spaghetti strap and maxi pad sling. Finished with the confidence of Dunlop strap locks.
Prolly go with a diver down Kramer style head stock, keep it black on black. I want Jumbo's , big ones. On at least a 24 fret with as close to a 16" deck as I can. Looks like im going to be using Hipshot locking tuners.
Last Edit: Aug 24, 2019 23:20:23 GMT -5 by markuser
What is it that people paint the neck with to make it glass like? So that it feels smooth like glass.
I have seen something that flakes off the fingerboard or peels, like a lacquer on old Fenders.
the most commonly used finish is Lacquer.. at least on up-scale guitars.... Followed by PolyUrethanes.. there are some very high quality waterborne lacquers and other finishes used on better guitars, but Lacquer is the number one go to for most...
what makes finishes flake, is the improper application of the finish.. for instance, with Nitro Lacquer the application of multiple coats is usually necessary... with a controlled time interval between coats.. this allows the new coat to melt into the preceding coat, becoming one contiguous coat...
If one allows a coat to dry too much, and the next coat is a timid very thin coat.. it can dry faster than it can melt adequately into the preceding coat... while it may preform adequately for a while..at some point the different coats can separate and the flaking begins.... Or.. if succeeding coats of poly are applied... or applied incorrectly, the same thing can happen, or in some cases the poly never adhere to the wood.. and the whole mess can peal or flake off..
“It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.” Mark Twain
Post by thetragichero on Sept 14, 2019 20:47:03 GMT -5
I've heard local cabinet makers are a great place to get veneer scraps for free I've always just used scrap cardboard you may want to make sure it's not a nut/fret/something else issue before going the shim route