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Post by ourclarioncall on Apr 15, 2020 10:05:12 GMT -5
Appreciate you are probably busy with original and want to test, make sure everything is working, so no rush , but here’s a question you can tackle sometime in the future i was just wondering if the circuit you made for me could be simplified so that the two cap switches are converted into one switch with only two caps instead of four. and the caps would both be on the same pickup, either neck or bridge. One for series and one for parallel. if it’s too complicated just forget about it just now, just stay on track with what your currently doing, I’m happy to try and figure out what’s going on with this one I’m using now . also keen to see what your one can do
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Post by perfboardpatcher on Apr 15, 2020 14:32:08 GMT -5
i was just wondering if the circuit you made for me could be simplified so that the two cap switches are converted into one switch with only two caps instead of four. and the caps would both be on the same pickup, either neck or bridge. One for series and one for parallel. I need to think about this.
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Post by ourclarioncall on Apr 15, 2020 15:09:22 GMT -5
i was just wondering if the circuit you made for me could be simplified so that the two cap switches are converted into one switch with only two caps instead of four. and the caps would both be on the same pickup, either neck or bridge. One for series and one for parallel. I need to think about this. One last creative thought was having another similar switch for resistors . Both resistors would be either off or on. When they are on the neck one would be used for when selecting neck pickup and the bridge one for bridge pickup. I wouldn’t be using both at the same time , just individually and my final fantasy is both switches being able to work together so you can have both cap and resistors at the same time 😊 that’s basically where my creative imagination will end up so might aswell just throw it out there I have ordered some new switches so I can have another go at wiring the original you gave me. It’s quite probable it’s not your circuit , it’s my bad soldering skills 😖😉
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Post by perfboardpatcher on Apr 17, 2020 13:19:18 GMT -5
Just had another test In parallel mode , when I turn the bridge pickup on by itself, it’s not working , but the amp is making some noise. Not extreme , but you can hear it. But when I play around with S5 and S6 , one of these settings turns the bridge pickup off completely , no more noise. It’s as if the bridge pickup was in the off position but it isn’t , it’s still in the on position. So it's just an ordinary day in the life of a tweaker, ourclarioncall! If the toggle of S5 is in down position then the caps aren't in the circuit. You could measure the resistance at the output jack for: 1. neck on - bridge off - S2 down (in series) and neck on - bridge off - S2 up (in parallel) -> result should be the same 2. neck off - bridge on - S2 in series and neck off - bridge off - S2 in parallel -> result should be the same 3. both pickups on - S2 in series -> resistance sum of 1 and 2 4. both pickups on - S2 in parallel -> resistance somewhere close to quarter of 3 How about sound for 1 to 4 ? Neck, bridge, series, parallel? (S1 down should give in phase combinations) If the lugs become hot they are easily bend. Also happens to me. That doesn't necessarily mean that the switch is kaputt. Anyway, you can still check by multimeter if the switche(s) make and break contacts.
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Post by perfboardpatcher on Apr 18, 2020 8:10:40 GMT -5
I have ordered some new switches so I can have another go at wiring the original you gave me. It’s quite probable it’s not your circuit , it’s my bad soldering skills 😖😉 If it were my project I would make lugs for the resistors and caps first. I make these lugs out of cut off leads of resistors with the use of a pointed pliers. (See picture) Then I would solder all the wires. Only then there is the fun part: experimenting with the Rs and Cs to achieve the result you're after! Be sure to make the lugs just big enough to remove and install the components without too much effort. Easiest way to install a component: Don't put too much effort on soldering the first leg of the component firm and secure, lightly soldered at the right position is good enough. Then solder the second leg firmly and the go back to the first leg and this time solder it firmly. Removing a component: If the component is to be removed by pulling it upwards, hold back the lug with the tip of the soldering iron from above. So at the same time you're melting the tin, holding back the lug and pulling up a leg of the component.
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Post by ourclarioncall on Apr 19, 2020 21:41:08 GMT -5
Thanks Perf
Good tips
Unfortunately my multimeter is at work.... 10 miles away 😖
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Post by ourclarioncall on Jun 26, 2020 14:19:49 GMT -5
Greetings , it’s been a while 😁
Just thought I would touch base again and record a few sounds with the wiring which half works . Really pleased with some of the sounds that I’m getting , even through a cheap tiny little amp. It sounds better in real life but the audio quality is an ok representation. It can only get better as the amp gets better
Bought a few tools for fret levelling, crowning , polishing , and had my first attempt at it , went pretty well
I also modified the nut and cut the slots deeper
And got some new strings
The combination of these things as left me really happy and really impressed. The nut cut along produced a significant difference, then the fret level allowed me to get the action really fast and much lower than normal , and the strings have really impressed me
Here’s a quick demo
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Post by ourclarioncall on Jun 30, 2020 12:22:01 GMT -5
Just did a test recording using the iPhone app called “AmpliTube”
It’s brilliant! You buy a cheap interface for less than £5 to plug your guitar lead into then it plugs into your iPhone . Simple , even I can do it . Then plug your headphones into the interface and you get some really great audio quality. Lots of amps , cabinets , effects , recording , looping, drum machine, daw, guitar tuner , metronome !
I recorded this with two iPhones. One filmed me then the other recorded the audio and I brought them both together in iMovie . Unfortunately the audio of me talking and describing the switch settings didn’t work but I know why do it can be resolved.
I’ve wanted something like this for a long time , as in a better soloution than recording a little cheap amp in a bedroom. I can’t afford a nice fender amp and a sm57 at the moment but this a pretty good second choice
The sound your hearing is their free Marshall stack type sound. I’ve set it pretty CLEAN with no effects and no reverb so you can hear all the good bad and ugly detail . I will try and record with a bit of overdrive and possibly distortion and maybe throw on a splash of reverb. I won’t add in any effects.
I’m tempted to buy one of their fender amps for about £5 to get a nice fender clean . Anyway here’s some audio
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Post by ourclarioncall on Jul 7, 2020 20:27:14 GMT -5
Revisiting this again. Just wondering if I have managed to successfully change the hoop switch into just a cap on /off switch ? the first pic I got rid of two switches, an oop and a hoop. I can’t see any reason why this wouldn’t work fine but haven’t checked it. second pic is me tweaking it slightly by adding in an extra pole , a couple of jumpers and moving the cap leg a wire. Trying to get rid of the out of phase part so it just puts the cap on or off , then I can use the actual oop switch if I want to change the phase reTrEaD what you reckon ? Have I managed to crack the code ? It appears to me that everything works but I don’t have a lot of faith in my judgement so would appreciate some eyeballs on it .
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Post by ourclarioncall on Jul 7, 2020 20:36:42 GMT -5
To add a bit of clarity, here’s the pickups in parallel with cap switch on. And here with pickups in series with cap switch on
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