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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 18, 2020 1:01:28 GMT -5
I recently specified: Neck/screws and bridge slugs for coil splitting? Your tap tests confirm that this is what you have, unless you flip the phase switch. And, we know that the screw coil is red/white, slug coil is black/green- if it wasn't, you wouldn't be getting the coil split results indicated by your tap test. Previously, you had said that you were getting hum when both HBs were "on"(and not split), but that flipping the phase switch made the hum go away. I had said that I could not explain that. But as per your post #65, it appears that has now gone away as well, and that you are only getting hum when a single coil is selected. If so, as ashcatlt pointed out, that is as expected. So, just to clarify things here, I am assuming that all problems with your wiring are now solved, and that you are only questioning which coils are North vs. South? This knowledge is, as I have repeatedly pointed out, entirely irrelevant to your wiring. It can be ascertained with a toy compass, but as has been said, manufacturers vary as to which way they designate North vs. South anyway. It seems that the confusion as to wire colors between reTrEaD and you comes down to a difference between PRS's US-made guitars and pickups, and those used in its Korean-made guitars, which are the pickups you have. 1. I think what you are saying is the resistance between start and finish points? On mine I get a resistance reading around '5' when I connect green and red; and also when I connect black and white. There is nothing between black/green OR red/white. Therefore green/red & white/black are paired. 2. yes, that is correct! 3. yes, that is correct! 4. I think so(?) - yes. many thanks! |
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Post by newey on Jul 18, 2020 6:45:02 GMT -5
1. I think what you are saying is the resistance between start and finish points? On mine I get a resistance reading around '5' when I connect green and red; and also when I connect black and white. There is nothing between black/green OR red/white. Therefore green/red & white/black are paired. Well, the resistance readings do tell you which pairs belong to one coil, but they don't tell you whether that pair is screw or slug. We know you have the correct (meaning the ones you want) coils when split based on 3 pieces of information: - Your tap tests confirm that you have the screw coil on the neck and slug an the bridge when the phase switch is set to "in phase". - Your guitar is wired according to the diagram you posted. It works as expected. - The diagram shows the coil split switch, for the bridge pickup, shorting the red/white pair, leaving the black/green pair active, which is therefore the slug coil as per your tap testing. The neck pickup shows the opposite, unless the phase switch is flipped. Therefore, red/white is the screw coil. QED. No resistance measurements necessary. |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 18, 2020 7:39:25 GMT -5
1. I think what you are saying is the resistance between start and finish points? On mine I get a resistance reading around '5' when I connect green and red; and also when I connect black and white. There is nothing between black/green OR red/white. Therefore green/red & white/black are paired. Well, the resistance readings do tell you which pairs belong to one coil, but they don't tell you whether that pair is screw or slug. We know you have the correct (meaning the ones you want) coils when split based on 3 pieces of information: - Your tap tests confirm that you have the screw coil on the neck and slug an the bridge when the phase switch is set to "in phase". - Your guitar is wired according to the diagram you posted. It works as expected. - The diagram shows the coil split switch, for the bridge pickup, shorting the red/white pair, leaving the black/green pair active, which is therefore the slug coil as per your tap testing. The neck pickup shows the opposite, unless the phase switch is flipped. Therefore, red/white is the screw coil. QED. No resistance measurements necessary.  Oh! ~ still don't get that part - Sorry!  ...but the tapping tests show which coil has greater activity on the DMM for any given pair of wires. The wires that don't belong to any given coil will show that coil with very little DMM activity, and far greater activity for the coil the wires are connected to (on the DMM). Cheers! |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 18, 2020 14:56:38 GMT -5
my latest screwdriver pull off tests: (using the 'above' wiring diagram)...  |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 20, 2020 2:02:08 GMT -5
JohnH Yogi B reTrEaD...should I now do the pull off test with just each individual coil connected to the output socket? i.e. green/red & black/white, OR the 'full' HB with a green/white series link, red as hot and black as ground? No other electronics involved. many thanks!
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 21, 2020 12:01:09 GMT -5
JohnH reTrEaD Yogi Bmy latest screwdriver pull off tests: (using the individual coils, one at a time)...  ..hope someone can tell me their findings/results/analysis of this test now that I have indicated which wire is connected to the tip of the output jack? Coils straight to output jack without wiring harness/circuit! many thanks!
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Post by newey on Jul 21, 2020 14:27:39 GMT -5
Your testing confirms that both screw coils are the same, as are both slug coils. This rules out the prior speculation that PRS might have made the bridge an neck coils opposite from each other. But, since you already confirmed that the scheme was wired as per the diagram, and worked as per your wishes, we already knew that the coils, screw and slug, were the same on the bridge and neck. I dunno, call me lost here, but it is unclear to me what remaining problem you are trying to solve? Seems to me all the questions have been answered, your scheme works as intended. In your other thread, we have addressed changing to SD pickups, which involves simply swapping wire colors around. What are you still trying to achieve here?  |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 21, 2020 18:56:00 GMT -5
Your testing confirms that both screw coils are the same, as are both slug coils. This rules out the prior speculation that PRS might have made the bridge an neck coils opposite from each other. But, since you already confirmed that the scheme was wired as per the diagram, and worked as per your wishes, we already knew that the coils, screw and slug, were the same on the bridge and neck. I dunno, call me lost here, but it is unclear to me what remaining problem you are trying to solve? Seems to me all the questions have been answered, your scheme works as intended. In your other thread, we have addressed changing to SD pickups, which involves simply swapping wire colors around. What are you still trying to achieve here? still trying to resolve the north/south, start/finish. plus/minus issue of the G&B pickups, but I don;t know what else information I can provide? I think I should have now provided enough info. and tests to resolve this issue, but still no one can complete the chart! Seems odd to me? I even dissected the bass pickup to discover that the green wire is on the outside of the coil, and the red wire is on the inside of the coil. Unfortunately, this broke the red copper strand and now I will have to send it away for repair, costing £30+ reTrEaD said you all needed to know which wire was connected to the tip of the jack socket, which I have now provided and am still waiting for this chart completion!  please tell me what else I can do? |
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Post by reTrEaD on Jul 21, 2020 19:42:49 GMT -5
still trying to resolve the north/south, start/finish. plus/minus issue of the G&B pickups You can't resolve the north/south or start/finish issue unless you know the magnetic polarity. ie: whether the slugs are North-seeking up and the screws are South-seeking up ... or vice-versa. You can't even resolve the plus/minus issue of these pickups relative to SD or DiMarzio. What you DO know is both Bridge and Neck in the G&B are consistent with each other. IF you use the Red as (+) and Green as the (-) for the screw coil, you will use the White as (+) and the Black as (-) for the slug coil. But I would be hesitant to include that in your chart, as it implies these will be in-phase when wired that way, with a SD or Dimarzio using their recommendations. We don't know that to be true. |
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Post by newey on Jul 21, 2020 20:46:12 GMT -5
I even dissected the bass pickup to discover that the green wire is on the outside of the coil, and the red wire is on the inside of the coil. Unfortunately, this broke the red copper strand and now I will have to send it away for repair, costing £30+ No one suggested that you do this. I am sorry you broke the pup. It was not necessary. RT said: ^^^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^^^^^ As we have said previously in this thread, you could use a compass to designate one coil as being "North" and the other "South", but there's no guarantee that DM or SD is designating their North or South in the same way. So, a chart purporting to translate SD to PRS or whatever does not mean that you could wire an SD pickup together with a PRS pickup simply by translating wire colors and have the result be in phase. The value of the wire color charts you are posting lies only in this: If I am replacing, for example, 2 PRS HBs that were properly wired in phase with 2 SD HBs, I can translate the wire colors from the PRS chart over to the SD colors, and by wiring it that way, my new SD pickups should be in phase. But we can't "Mix and match" different types without doing the testing (or by taking the 50-50 chance that we get it right the first time) "plus" and "minus" have no more meaning in this context than calling one end the "start" and the other end the "finish". Take your pick, you don't need both. IIRC (and it's been a while), I believe that, despite having the same wire colors and coil designations, that SD HBs and Fender OEM HBs are out of phase with each other. This has apparently tripped up many a modder who wanted to put one SD pickup into their guitar alongside the stock OEM Fender, even though the wire chart for the two would be identical. But I could be wrong on that and it's too late for me to be a'googlin' |
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Post by reTrEaD on Jul 21, 2020 21:04:49 GMT -5
you could use a compass to designate one coil as being "North" and the other "South", but there's no guarantee that DM or SD is designating their North or South in the same way. I can say with 99% certainty: SD, Dimarzio (except for a few special pairs they made for Ibanez that had one of the magnets flipped), and Schaller all have the magnets in their HBs oriented as such: Screw coil - South-seeking up Slug coil - North-seeking up. If you place one of their HBs flat on a table with the face up, then hover a compass (face-up) over the middle of HB, the North seeking end of the needle will point toward the screws. |
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Post by JohnH on Jul 22, 2020 17:45:26 GMT -5
Not sure if this thread is all resolved? or are we still hanging by this thread? I think there's probably enough to know everything now, I just thought I'd check. If there's still uncertainty, perhaps you could check the following: 1 The intended base diagram is reTrEaDs?:  which as shown, uses SD colours. 2. Does it show the right placement of screw and slug coils? I assume it does. 3. When phase switch is at in-phase, coil cuts are Neck screw and Bridge slug. I think this is as intended? When phase is pulled, bridge changes to screw. All good. On your Korean PRS pickups, I think we know that: 4. red-green is screw? 5. black-white is slug? 6 Screwdriver pulloff tests have established that both pickuos are the same in terms of phase, colours vs slug/screw. 7. We know that a normal humbucker wiring could be red to hot, black to ground, green&white joined. This is consistent with above statements.(note, that's only 1 of 3 ways to do it thst all sound the same with full hb's) If all those points 1 to 7 check out, then as I see it, wiring placement on the diagram should be, top to bottom, as follows: neck: red green white black bridge: white black red green Anyone agree or disagree? Note that none of that needed to know things like start and finish, or absolute North and South. Although these parameters are important they are sidestepped by all the other info so we don't need to be hung up on them. |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 22, 2020 17:50:35 GMT -5
More info. & more tests: got this:  the red end points to the screw and the blue end points to the slug. Does this help? (with the chart) OR anything? As I said the red wire went the inside of the coil and the green wire went to the outside of the coil. Surely it must be possible for at least one expert to make an informed and calculated guess as to how these wires should be labelled ? I know no one asked me to dissect the pickup, that was my own choice! I've always been this way all my life. i.e. I take things to bits. esp. when I'm looking for answers to questions (lol). Apparently, this is how to do it: click linkcheers! |
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Post by unreg on Jul 22, 2020 18:57:00 GMT -5
thedoc, you should probably give up on trying to complete your diagram. As this post will back me up: you could use a compass to designate one coil as being "North" and the other "South", but there's no guarantee that DM or SD is designating their North or South in the same way. I can say with 99% certainty: SD, Dimarzio (except for a few special pairs they made for Ibanez that had one of the magnets flipped), and Schaller all have the magnets in their HBs oriented as such: Screw coil - South-seeking up Slug coil - North-seeking up. If you place one of their HBs flat on a table with the face up, then hover a compass (face-up) over the middle of HB, the North seeking end of the needle will point toward the screws. You said you liked this post so I’m sure you read it.  1.) North is positive... South is negative. 2.) Magnets work universally the same way. Opposites only attract... which means, same charges will always separate. 3.) Since the screw coil is placed “South-seeking up”, that would mean a negative charge from the screw will only pull a positively charged point on your device. That’s what your new interesting device just reported. Therefore, since SD and DM pickups, unless DM is Dimarzio, are made by different manufactures AND each manufacturer may determine their own idea on how to label “North” and “South”... you will have to contact each company and ask them their perspective on their North/South desiginations. My “unless” is bc if DM is Dimarzio, then retread’s post explains everything... no need for phone calls. (Please forgive me if I am not being helpful. I’ve read pieces of this thread over its lifetime, but my memory isn’t great.) |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 22, 2020 19:02:19 GMT -5
Not sure if this thread is all resolved? or are we still hanging by this thread? I think there's probably enough to know everything now, I just thought I'd check. If there's still uncertainty, perhaps you could check the following: 1 The intended base diagram is reTrEaDs?: which as shown, uses SD colours. 2. Does it show the right placement of screw and slug coils? I assume it does. 3. When phase switch is at in-phase, coil cuts are Neck screw and Bridge slug. I think this is as intended? When phase is pulled, bridge changes to screw. All good. On your Korean PRS pickups, I think we know that: 4. red-green is screw? 5. black-white is slug? 6 Screwdriver pulloff tests have established that both pickuos are the same in terms of phase, colours vs slug/screw. 7. We know that a normal humbucker wiring could be red to hot, black to ground, green&white joined. This is consistent with above statements.(note, that's only 1 of 3 ways to do it thst all sound the same with full hb's) If all those points 1 to 7 check out, then as I see it, wiring placement on the diagram should be, top to bottom, as follows: neck: red green white black bridge: white black red green Anyone agree or disagree? Note that none of that needed to know things like start and finish, or absolute North and South. Although these parameters are important they are sidestepped by all the other info so we don't need to be hung up on them. 1. yes, this one but not yet approved by him:  Neck = reverse phase pickup. In-phase: Neck - Screw coil Bridge - slug coil (not affected by phase switch) Out-of-phase: Neck - Slug coil Bridge - Slug coil (not affected by phase switch) 2. yes 3. according to initial diagram - yes! But I wanted the neck to be the phase switch (as stated in point #1) 4. yes 5. yes 6. I'll take your word for it! 7. yes. You mean like this: (given that red/green were connected to the screws prior to dissection)...  ...however, this looks like red/green to slugs? Cheers! |
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Post by reTrEaD on Jul 22, 2020 21:42:45 GMT -5
1.) North is positive... South is negative. I can't say this emphatically enough ... NO. You should NEVER refer to North or South as Positive or Negative. Never. Under no circumstance. Just. don't. do. it. |
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Post by sumgai on Jul 22, 2020 22:37:30 GMT -5
What reTrEaD said!
I've been doing this electricity stuff since the 1950s and not once has any mentor, teacher, manager, superior officer, or any other knowledgeable person in my career ever said that electrical property labels are directly equivalent to magnetic property labels. I rate the chances as pretty darn high that there's a good reason for why this is so.....
Remember too, property labels are nothing more than references. Sometimes a reference is a permanent thing, and sometimes it's only an instantaneous 'snapshot' in time. That last implies that the label is subject to change from one moment to the next. Which then means, depending on such a label to remain steady will only result in tears, I wholeheartedly assure you.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by unreg on Jul 23, 2020 14:54:16 GMT -5
I’m sorry thedoc735. reTrEaD and Sumgai, thank you!
Why have electricity property labels? Magnetic property labels can’t be confusing... positive is just a positively charged ion.
Electricity property labels seem to not be cemented to anything... no foundation... they are confusing to me.
Sorry for this slight derailing doc.
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Post by sumgai on Jul 23, 2020 17:03:46 GMT -5
Why have electricity property labels? Magnetic property labels can’t be confusing... positive is just a positively charged ion. While that single ion is charged to only one state, literally any physical item you can put in your hand for your use has trillions upon trillions of ions. When no current is flowing, who can say which ion might have a charge, positive or negative? An external stimulation must be applied in order to put a charge on one or more ions. Whereas, magnetic molecules don't have the luxury of "changing their mind about which direction they want to face" like electrons do, but magnetic fields can be influenced, almost as easily as electrons. While a magnet itself is hard to change, the field surrounding the magnet can be easily influenced - that's why we don't want to attach permanent labels. Make sense? HTH sumgai |
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Post by Yogi B on Jul 23, 2020 22:38:09 GMT -5
You should NEVER refer to North or South as Positive or Negative. Sorry  A snippet from the ever delayed Qcoils: class MagneticPolarity(IntEnum):
NORTH = N = +1
SOUTH = S = -1
I did that such that when paired with a similar definition for WindingDirection I could then do: self._output_level = output_level * magnetic_polarity * winding_direction
and have the in phase / out of phase combinations fall out naturally.
By convention a vector representing magnetic field density or magnetic field strength is defined to be in the direction that a compass points, that is from the compass's south pole towards its north pole (in other words from the north pole and towards the south pole of the external magnetic field in which the compass is situated). As a vector quantity this can be signed, positive or negative, but that does not indicate that the field is 'more north' or 'more south', just which direction the field is orientated. Why have electricity property labels? Magnetic property labels can’t be confusing... positive is just a positively charged ion. An ion is an electrically charged molecule, and has no effect on the magnetic field (unless it is moving). The other problem is that there is no such thing as magnetic charge, in the sense that anything producing a magnetic field cannot have a net excess of either north or south polarity. As far as anyone has thus far been able to prove magnets only exist as dipoles -- a north pole cannot exist without a corresponding south pole of equal magnitude. Magnetic monopoles, which would not observe this rule, are theorised to be possible, but as of yet no-one has proven their existence. When no current is flowing, who can say which ion might have a charge, positive or negative? I'm pretty sure I could tell you which end of a fully charged capacitor was which.I don't know what you're implying with molecules in italics, but the magnetic domains within the steel pole pieces in my humbuckers are pretty indecisive as to which way they align, depending on how I orientate the neighbouring AlNiCo magnet. And I'd be wary of that also 'changing its mind' if I introduced it to a much beefier neodymium magnet. |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 24, 2020 1:16:40 GMT -5
I’m sorry thedoc735. reTrEaD and Sumgai, thank you! Why have electricity property labels? Magnetic property labels can’t be confusing... positive is just a positively charged ion. Electricity property labels seem to not be cemented to anything... no foundation... they are confusing to me. Sorry for this slight derailing doc. OK mate, no probs! |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 24, 2020 1:26:05 GMT -5
JohnHwhen you have a moment, please answer post #104. many thanks!
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Post by JohnH on Jul 24, 2020 2:49:18 GMT -5
JohnHwhen you have a moment, please answer post #104. many thanks! My opinion is that to get what you want, you should follow the top to bottom colours that I posted, onto you amended version of reTrEaDs diagram. Ie, it is currengly drawn with SD colours and the changes amount to swapping blacks with whites. As you have already noted, your last diagram in post 104 is not right . BTW My belief is that its not reasonable to ask anyone to approve a diagram, that implies taking some form of responsibility for it . What we can do is review and offer comments, which we are happy to do. |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 24, 2020 3:36:30 GMT -5
JohnH when you have a moment, please answer post #104. many thanks! My opinion is that to get what you want, you should follow the top to bottom colours that I posted, onto you amended version of reTrEaDs diagram. Ie, it is currengly drawn with SD colours and the changes amount to swapping blacks with whites. As you have already noted, your last diagram in post 104 is not right . BTW its not reasonable to ask anyone to approve a diagram, that implies taking some form of responsibility for it . What we can do is review and offer comments. 1. I am not using retreads' diagram with G&B pickups! I am using it with SD pickups! You state: "wiring placement on the diagram should be, top to bottom, as follows:
neck:
red
green
white
black"...You mean like this: (given that red/green were connected to the screws prior to dissection)... ...however, this looks like red/green to slugs? I wanted to see how you placed your findings on the above chart? Not retreads diagram! 2. I was just swapping the bridge pickup for the neck pickup as the reverse phase pickup, other than that it is the same, other than that it is correct. 3. ReTrEaD HAS now approved his diagram on another thread with the neck as phase. He is responsible for his own diagram, so I don't understand why you imply that asking for approval is unreasonable? Cheers! |
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Post by JohnH on Jul 24, 2020 8:09:08 GMT -5
seems like there are no questions left here. You know where the wires to each coil on your prs pickups go, red green to screw coil as you stated. But anyway, now you aren't using them at all so it all seems moot.
I havent anything else to offer.
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 24, 2020 15:11:51 GMT -5
seems like there are no questions left here. You know where the wires to each coil on your prs pickups go, red green to screw coil as you stated. But anyway, now you aren't using them at all so it all seems moot. I havent anything else to offer. No! ..it is not a moot point because I am intending to use the G&B pickups on another project quite soon! Once the dissected pickup is repaired. Frankly I still DO NOT have the pickup wiring chart completed. I thought that following your initial input it looked very promising when you said we now have enough information to complete the colour coding chart. You asked me extensive questions which I diligently answered, and other members question too. I completed all the tests that members asked of me, e.g. resistance, pull off, tapping etc. but still you haven't been able to complete the chart despite now having enough information! Puzzling to say the least? You have nothing further to offer? So, you are unable to complete the chart despite having enough information? What was the point in me providing all the data asked for if you can't help? Basically I did all that for nothing! Still inconclusive? I even dissected the pickup and performed north/south polarity tests to add to the mix! In that case, with respect, perhaps it would have been better if you had just said: "interesting dilemma, but no one here will be able to help you with that enquiry because in our collective opinion there are too many arbitrary variables; in spite of there being plenty of charts showing colour coding for SD, DM, Gibson, Fender, GOTOH, BK, etc. all over the internet. Unfortunately, no PRS (G&B) pickups are (as yet) included in those charts". Not surprising then that I feel somewhat deflated and let down, as my hopes had been unrealistically built up to expect an imminent solution! You may have peoples best interests at heart, but are you sure you can actually deliver on those terms? Maybe (like me) you, are simply letting other people down with false reassurances? Please don't be too quick to wade in with almost certain answers, but then go quiet and disappear, which doesn't bode well for the image of this forum! |
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 24, 2020 15:44:27 GMT -5
Based on this, the original OEM factory wiring:  I think this is how the colour code chart should look:  ...anyone agree? Cheers! |
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Post by JohnH on Jul 24, 2020 16:07:02 GMT -5
For someone seeking free help on an internet forum from people who also work full-time you seem to get rather demanding.
Lets have one more go.
I was trying to see if we could figure out how to wire your PRS pickups into you wiring diagrams. I believe that what I suggested should work for both versions of your diagram, ie phase on neck or phase on bridge. Needed to ask those questions to see if id followed it right. So I understand now that you will use SD pickups instead for your first version, but maybe you might use a similar wiring for the next one with the PRS''s?
What we know
I think we know enough to wire up the two PRS pickups that you have, in any scheme of two humbuckers.
We know both pickups are the same in terms of polarities, colours, screws/slugs etc
We know red/green is screw black/white is slug
We know one (out of actually four) ways to wire up a simple standard in-phase wiring would be red to hot, black to ground, green/white joined
EDIT: I just saw your last post with the OEM wiring , and it confirms that this is OK
What we dont know:
I don't think I can definitively fill in the diagram of Dimarzio, SD and PRS equivalents, which to be correct would imply that if you had say a guitar with two SD pickups, you might be able to take one out and drop in a PRS and have it all match up with full compatibility. In such a situation, Id always need to do the tests and checks to figure them out together as a new set. This may reveal differences in things like polarity and phase. It should always be possible to figure out any scheme of two different humbuckers, but it may result in differences such as screw/slug choices needing to be swapped.
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Post by thedoc735 on Jul 25, 2020 11:54:37 GMT -5
For someone seeking free help on an internet forum from people who also work full-time you seem to get rather demanding. Lets have one more go. I was trying to see if we could figure out how to wire your PRS pickups into you wiring diagrams. I believe that what I suggested should work for both versions of your diagram, ie phase on neck or phase on bridge. Needed to ask those questions to see if id followed it right. So I understand now that you will use SD pickups instead for your first version, but maybe you might use a similar wiring for the next one with the PRS''s?
What we knowI think we know enough to wire up the two PRS pickups that you have, in any scheme of two humbuckers. We know both pickups are the same in terms of polarities, colours, screws/slugs etc We know red/green is screw black/white is slug We know one (out of actually four) ways to wire up a simple standard in-phase wiring would be red to hot, black to ground, green/white joined EDIT: I just saw your last post with the OEM wiring , and it confirms that this is OK What we dont know:I don't think I can definitively fill in the diagram of Dimarzio, SD and PRS equivalents, which to be correct would imply that if you had say a guitar with two SD pickups, you might be able to take one out and drop in a PRS and have it all match up with full compatibility. In such a situation, Id always need to do the tests and checks to figure them out together as a new set. This may reveal differences in things like polarity and phase. It should always be possible to figure out any scheme of two different humbuckers, but it may result in differences such as screw/slug choices needing to be swapped. Without Prejudice (Sincerely)… Many Thanks for the reply – “BUT!” ~ Demanding? Excuse me? I think I have the right to defend my honour? I thought you had nothing further to offer on this matter? But now you are responding again? A contradiction in terms! It’s your prerogative to think I’m demanding! I feel I have a clear conscience in that respect. I was curious to know the colour coding of the G&B pickups and respectfully requested help. Members were good enough to respond with question which I diligently answered and asked for the results of tests which I diligently supplied. I don’t believe I was demanding and never said: “you must reply immediately” or anything like that. I said reply when you have a moment, when you have time available – meaning at your personal convenience. How is that demanding? I even offered to pay reTrEaD for his diagram but he politely refused and said that the forum may introduce a donations page, and I said I would donate to the forum! I feel this is a very unfortunate misunderstanding and I would like to publicly apologies to you for anything that offends you in what I have requested; very Sorry! Anyway, I’ll give you one more go. As to your latest questions: 1. Yes, correct and affirmative. 2. What we know – affirmative. 3. What we don’t know – agreed, but I’m not going to do a mix and match pickup swap. i.e. Sticking with same pickup manufacturer on any instrument! 4. “I’m not confident to fill in the diagram of Dimarzio, SD and PRS pickups”. OK, no probs! I’ll patiently wait and see if anyone else can shed ‘new light’ on the issue. I asked PRS for this information but got no reply. Many thanks! |
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Post by newey on Jul 25, 2020 17:31:42 GMT -5
doc-
JohnH, RT, YogiB, and I, as well as others, have patiently tried to answer every inquiry you have made across 4 pages of this thread, and in your separate thread regarding using SD pickups instead. You have a diagram for your PRS pickups which apparently works, per your own statements. You have a diagram to use for the SD pickups. You have all the info on the PRS pickups here, from JohnH:
You seem to be fixated, for some unknown reason, on "filling in your chart" for the PRS pickups. You can make a similar diagram for the PRS pickups based upon this information. But what RT, myself and JohnH have all told you is that you can't imply that, knowing the coils and colors,you could wire one SD pickup with one of your PRS pickups and have them be in phase (there's a 50-50 chance they will be, but you won't know for sure).
RT said:
JohnH said:
I said:
Three of us have now told you exactly the same thing about the problem with your chart. We're going around in circles here. I don't know whether you are being purposefully obtuse here or what, but nothing you are doing here has any relevance to your chart.
We are happy to try to help, but I am frustrated by this thread, as I am sure others are, since we have given you all of the info you need and have answered all of your questions so far as we are able to do so.
Note that, taking the PRS pickups out of the picture, your chart implies that one SD and one DM could be wired together according to the chart, but we don't know that even that much is true without more information. RT provided that info when he noted that both SD and DM designate their coils the same way magnetically. Without that extra knowledge, your chart isn't even valid for SD and DM pickups.
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