cmscss
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Post by cmscss on Oct 25, 2020 22:58:18 GMT -5
Hi There, Have decided to break up the previous (ambitious) wiring plan into smaller chunks – ignore my previous thread sorry. Stage one: Reversible kill switch. I had a go at translating power wiring diagrams that used similar switches, does the attached look correct? - Kill Toggle Down = Kill Switch Normal (signal cut when momentary pressed)
- Kill Toggle Up = Kill Switch Reversed (signal on when momentary pressed)
Disclaimer: I can solder but have no clue about electronics sorry.
Any pointers much appreciated.
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Post by newey on Oct 26, 2020 6:23:43 GMT -5
cmcss- Sorry, but it's back to the drawing board . . . In order for the SPST toggle to switch the momentary from one mode to the other, both ends of the toggle switch need to connect to the momentary switch. You show only one connection to the momentary switch. The other lug of the toggle shorts the hot line to ground at the jack, killling all output regardless of whether you push the momentary switch. Not what you want. I can't tell you how to wire the momentary switch without a designation of the lugs on it. But, if I'm recalling correctly from earler in this thread, these switches have both a normally-open ("NO") and a normally-closed ("NC") lug (actually, 2 of each, since they are double-pole switches, but you only need to use one pole). To do this, the red wire stays wired to the middle lug of the SPST toggle, as you show it. Wire the upper lug of the toggle to the NO lug on one pole of the momentary. Wire the lower lug of the toggle switch to the NC lug on the same pole of the momentary switch. Wire the common lug of that pole on the momentary to the jack ground/sleeve. Actually, you can reverse the wiring of the upper and lower toggle lugs, it won't matter unless it matters to you whether "up" on the toggle is "kill open" or "kill closed". And, if thst does matter, you could always just rorate the switch as you installed it, assuming the wire leads are long enough. IIRC, the momentary switch is labeled as to which lugs are which, but if you are unsure, a meter (or continuity checker) will tell the tale.
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cmscss
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Post by cmscss on Oct 26, 2020 15:50:46 GMT -5
OK, assuming I got the lugs correct from the other thread, I've had a go re-wiring based on your instructions. Does this look better? Thanks agin for your patience, much appreciated!
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Post by newey on Oct 27, 2020 6:01:46 GMT -5
That should do it. You probably should double-check the continuity between the NO and NC lugs and the common lug, just to be sure that you're using the same pole of the switch. Since the switch lugs, as the mfr. says, aren't numbered, we are making an assumption- a reasonable one, but an assumption nonetheless- that the common lug operates the lugs directly above it, and not the ones across the switch from it. It's also a good idea, in general, to test all components before wiring them. I learned the hard way- had a push/pull pot that was defective from the factory, brand new, but it took me quite a bit of frustration before I found the problem. If I had tested it first, I would have saved hours of my time and a few gray hairs . . .
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cmscss
Meter Reader 1st Class
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Post by cmscss on Oct 27, 2020 13:52:24 GMT -5
Thanks for that, have just checked the switch with a multimeter and yes, each com lug operates the lugs above.
Thanks for your help much appreciated.
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