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Post by newey on Jun 15, 2021 12:27:47 GMT -5
Glad to hear you got it done despite the trials and tribulations involved. That custom switch was a bit of work, nice job on that!
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Post by gckelloch on Jun 15, 2021 14:51:41 GMT -5
I bow to your superior OCD, sir.  Pickup heights can't be adjusted? Are they surface mounted? Otherwise, you could use some of that clear tubing on the height screws to hold them in place where you set them. Incidentally, I think I'll try this tubing in my guitars with trem springs because it should damp better than plastic tubing: www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-79-21491-93-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing?gclid=CjwKCAjwn6GGBhADEiwAruUcKlhL13dx_IwLhT7HhxT5sAxHHn1MmnY4HuELZSJvBJu1Se-nK6BoOxoC_loQAvD_BwEI didn't realize what was causing some subtractive wolf tones on a few guitars until recently. You might get some high end loss from adding R in series with pickups, but it's fine if you like the tone. Glad it was worth the effort. I once spent ~40 hrs conceiving of and drawing up a complicated switching scheme for one guitar. It worked just as expected, so no regrets. |
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Post by newey on Jun 15, 2021 15:51:26 GMT -5
I was going to mention that as well, but gc beat me to it. Even if they are screwed into the body a la EVH Charvels/Jacksons etc, you can use a shim underneath (nonconductive material, natch) and longer screws to raise them a bit.
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Post by gckelloch on Jun 15, 2021 23:12:49 GMT -5
I bow to your superior OCD, sir. Pickup heights can't be adjusted? Are they surface mounted? Otherwise, you could use some of that clear tubing on the height screws to hold them in place where you set them. Incidentally, I think I'll try this tubing in my guitars with trem springs because it should damp better than plastic tubing: www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-79-21491-93-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing?gclid=CjwKCAjwn6GGBhADEiwAruUcKlhL13dx_IwLhT7HhxT5sAxHHn1MmnY4HuELZSJvBJu1Se-nK6BoOxoC_loQAvD_BwEI didn't realize what was causing some subtractive wolf tones on a few guitars until recently. You might get some high end loss from adding R in series with pickups, but it's fine if you like the tone. Glad it was worth the effort. I once spent ~40 hrs conceiving of and drawing up a complicated switching scheme for one guitar. It worked just as expected, so no regrets. The pickups are mounted with wood screws and plastic spacers. Tbh, I prefer to keep them that way and take advantage of the electronics instead. I've never liked how woobly direct mounted pickups get with springs, or the wear on the wood. Plus, it's really nice to have them a bit lower, since I hit the middle pickup less with my pick. The trim pots are not in line with the pickups, so no tone suck. They're in line with a signal that determines the amount of boost. It works in reverse. Uninterrupted signal = no boost. Signal totally cut off = max boost. Ah, I am so finicky about pickup and pole screw heights that I adjust them to less than 1/8 a screw turn on a few sets. It's crucial for the note timbre and dynamic feel I want. Seriously, 1/8th a turn on the coil height can audibly affect the lower string harmonic strength (as well as the false 2nd generated from asymmetry). 1/8 on a pole screw affects the upper harmonics depending on the field strength. More string pull not only increases intermodulations but also increases the 3rd+ string harmonics depending on the pickup position. It's largely why a C8, A8, or A5 powered pickup sounds brighter than A2, A3, or A4. Is the boost system active? Otherwise, adding R in any way to the circuit will affect the high end to some extent. |
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Post by gckelloch on Jun 16, 2021 4:57:28 GMT -5
Ah, I am so finicky about pickup and pole screw heights that I adjust them to less than 1/8 a screw turn on a few sets. It's crucial for the note timbre and dynamic feel I want. Seriously, 1/8th a turn on the coil height can audibly affect the lower string harmonic strength (as well as the false 2nd generated from asymmetry). 1/8 on a pole screw affects the upper harmonics depending on the field strength. More string pull not only increases intermodulations but also increases the 3rd+ string harmonics depending on the pickup position. It's largely why a C8, A8, or A5 powered pickup sounds brighter than A2, A3, or A4. Is the boost system active? Otherwise, adding R in any way to the circuit will affect the high end to some extent. Since having balanced volume between pickup combinations is really important to me, I've always adjusted single coils as close to the strings as string pull would allow. Then I set the humbucker to match. I usually put the humbucker in parallel (or split it) and use that to match to the singles. Yep, the guitar is active. Passive pickups and tone control, but everything else is active. Buffered output too. I use a Wilde RWRP L280SL (3.6H) & L298SL (5H) on a 1P2T switch in the bridge pos of my Parker NiteFLy V1. Sounds really nice in parallel at ~2H. I have a master: Wilde "Q-filter"; tone control; and midrange focusing treble bleed on the volume for many useful tone combinations. All passive and I use a ~160pF 10' Sommer Spirit LLX cable -- not that there's anything wrong with onboard active circuitry at all. Just one less thing to think about. |
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big1966
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 1 
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Post by big1966 on Jul 27, 2022 9:53:07 GMT -5
Hi man ! A little help request : do you own the original schematic of the HH LUKE III guitar ? I bought the TRANSITIONS , but….how to cable them? Can u please indicate me the best 5 way mega switch ? Thank u in advance . BIG1966
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Post by newey on Jul 27, 2022 11:09:39 GMT -5
big1966-
Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!Wehaven't heard back from guitarnerdswe since May, but hopefully he will see that I have tagged him here and respond |
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