advani
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Post by advani on Sept 15, 2021 5:55:58 GMT -5
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Post by newey on Sept 15, 2021 11:40:36 GMT -5
advani-
Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!
OK, we've got 4 different diagrams showing different things, so I'm a bit confused. First, you said 4 pots- 2 Vols, one tone for the mag pickups, plus a volume pot for the piezo. But then the third diagram down shows the piezo with both a V and T pot of its own. Is there going to be a piezo tone pot or not?
To have 2 volumes but only a single tone pot for the mag pickups, you should plan on using a dual-gang pot for the tone, so that each pickup can have its own gang (i.e., it will be wired just like a regular LP with dual V and T pots, but both tones are combined on one pot shaft.)
What is meant by "MID" and "FASS"? Your push/pull looks OK to switch between the two, but without knowing more info, I can't really tell you whether that will work or not.
But my biggest question mark is the output jack. The diagrams from Acousti-Phonic seem to show this as a switched jack, with 4 connections (i.e., a TRRS jack). One of these presumably disconnects the battery negative at some point internal within the preamp/buffer, so that the battery is disconnected when no cable is inserted, to save the battery. The other three are wired into the preamp. Since we don't really know what all is happening inside the preamp, I can't tell if it is possible to use a stereo cable to split the mag and piezo signals as you want to do- it depends on the internals of that preamp. Although it seems doubtful, given that the "QSW" (whatever that is, "quick switch", maybe???) allows for piezo/both/mag switching, which then feeds into the preamp in some fashion. Does the Acousti-Phonic literature address using a stereo cable to separate the piezo and mag outputs?
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advani
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Post by advani on Sept 16, 2021 0:46:29 GMT -5
advani- Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!OK, we've got 4 different diagrams showing different things, so I'm a bit confused. First, you said 4 pots- 2 Vols, one tone for the mag pickups, plus a volume pot for the piezo. But then the third diagram down shows the piezo with both a V and T pot of its own. Is there going to be a piezo tone pot or not? To have 2 volumes but only a single tone pot for the mag pickups, you should plan on using a dual-gang pot for the tone, so that each pickup can have its own gang (i.e., it will be wired just like a regular LP with dual V and T pots, but both tones are combined on one pot shaft.) What is meant by "MID" and "FASS"? Your push/pull looks OK to switch between the two, but without knowing more info, I can't really tell you whether that will work or not. But my biggest question mark is the output jack. The diagrams from Acousti-Phonic seem to show this as a switched jack, with 4 connections (i.e., a TRRS jack). One of these presumably disconnects the battery negative at some point internal within the preamp/buffer, so that the battery is disconnected when no cable is inserted, to save the battery. The other three are wired into the preamp. Since we don't really know what all is happening inside the preamp, I can't tell if it is possible to use a stereo cable to split the mag and piezo signals as you want to do- it depends on the internals of that preamp. Although it seems doubtful, given that the "QSW" (whatever that is, "quick switch", maybe???) allows for piezo/both/mag switching, which then feeds into the preamp in some fashion. Does the Acousti-Phonic literature address using a stereo cable to separate the piezo and mag outputs? Dear Mr. Neweey, Thank you for your response. Sorry for the confusion. I was trying to be as brief as possible. Let me try and clarify what I hope to accomplish. 1. Have 2 Volume controls and a common tone control for the magnetic pickups . The push-pull switch of the 2 volume pots will be used for phase and series wiring. (as in the first picture) 2. Have the 1 Volume control for the piezo pickup and use the push-pull switch of this pot (I have referred to it as the "4th pot") to act as a quick switch. (as shown in the second picture). I am confused here as the quick switch in the third picture has a centre position when both mag and piezo are on but the push pull switch on the potentiometer has only 2 positions. 3. Have push pull switch of the common tone pot be used as a mid-dark switch for the piezo pickup as shown in the image below. I don't need to have tone control for the piezo. Mid-dark selection is enough.  4. From the manual: "Acousti-Phonic detects whether you’ve inserted a stereo or mono plug into the 1/4” jack and automatically switches to Stereo (separate) or Mono (blended) mode" The manual for this preamp can be found here: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2372/8913/files/ghost-installation-manual.pdfgraphtech.com/pages/ghost-wiring-diagrams |
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Post by newey on Sept 16, 2021 4:56:39 GMT -5
4. From the manual: "Acousti-Phonic detects whether you’ve inserted a stereo or mono plug into the 1/4” jack and automatically switches to Stereo (separate) or Mono (blended) mode" OK, that answers my main question. Do they supply you with the TRRS jack? A push/pull pot just can't do what a three-position toggle can do. With a push/pull, it would be either piezo or mag, but not both together. The "stock" Acousti-phonic wiring, as you said above, can apparently use either a mono cable or a stereo cable, but we're treating the preamp as a "black box" here, it does what it does but we don't know all the internal connections and logic, etc. Logically, those "QSW" connections from the three-way switch to the board must internally affect the stereo/mono thing. Presumably, if a stereo cable is plugged in and the switch is set to the center position, you'd have both outputs at once; flipping the switch to either side would give either piezo or mag output by itself. Without more info from the manufacturer or more detail of the innards of the preamp, there's no way to tell if using a push/pull instead of a three-position switch will work. You can certainly try it and see; I can't imagine you'd hurt anything by doing so. Best case scenario is that, with the push/pull, and always using a stereo cable to your splitter box (i.e., no mono operation), the preamp would internally give you both signals in stereo at all times, leaving you to use the splitter box to switch between the two signals (You'd need a splitter box with "ABY" switching, which isn't what is shown in your picture). But I'd suspect it to be more likely that, with the push/pull, you'd get either piezo or mag signal, but never both together. I say "more likely" because, presumably, the switch when used with a stereo cable still allows one to switch between piezo/both/mag settings (thus implying that the QSW internal wiring is integrated with the stereo/mono thing). If this is so, then with the push/pull, you'd never get both signals at once, it would only be one or the other. As for the "mid/dark switch", I still don't know what "MID" and "FAAS" are supposed to do here (and my willingness to click through a bunch of links to find this info is limited). The diagram shows the FAAS connection wired straight to the volume control, and doesn't show the MID connection as being wired to anything, so again, too little information to know anything for certain. |
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advani
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Post by advani on Sept 16, 2021 5:18:00 GMT -5
4. From the manual: "Acousti-Phonic detects whether you’ve inserted a stereo or mono plug into the 1/4” jack and automatically switches to Stereo (separate) or Mono (blended) mode" OK, that answers my main question. Do they supply you with the TRRS jack? A push/pull pot just can't do what a three-position toggle can do. With a push/pull, it would be either piezo or mag, but not both together. The "stock" Acousti-phonic wiring, as you said above, can apparently use either a mono cable or a stereo cable, but we're treating the preamp as a "black box" here, it does what it does but we don't know all the internal connections and logic, etc. Logically, those "QSW" connections from the three-way switch to the board must internally affect the stereo/mono thing. Presumably, if a stereo cable is plugged in and the switch is set to the center position, you'd have both outputs at once; flipping the switch to either side would give either piezo or mag output by itself. Without more info from the manufacturer or more detail of the innards of the preamp, there's no way to tell if using a push/pull instead of a three-position switch will work. You can certainly try it and see; I can't imagine you'd hurt anything by doing so. Best case scenario is that, with the push/pull, and always using a stereo cable to your splitter box (i.e., no mono operation), the preamp would internally give you both signals in stereo at all times, leaving you to use the splitter box to switch between the two signals (You'd need a splitter box with "ABY" switching, which isn't what is shown in your picture). But I'd suspect it to be more likely that, with the push/pull, you'd get either piezo or mag signal, but never both together. I say "more likely" because, presumably, the switch when used with a stereo cable still allows one to switch between piezo/both/mag settings (thus implying that the QSW internal wiring is integrated with the stereo/mono thing). If this is so, then with the push/pull, you'd never get both signals at once, it would only be one or the other. As for the "mid/dark switch", I still don't know what "MID" and "FAAS" are supposed to do here (and my willingness to click through a bunch of links to find this info is limited). The diagram shows the FAAS connection wired straight to the volume control, and doesn't show the MID connection as being wired to anything, so again, too little information to know anything for certain. Yes sir, they did supply a TRRS jack as part of the kit. Yes, I to understand that a push-pull pot would be missing it's centre option (both Piezo and Mag together). I guess I can try it, and report back. I have exams and 2 papers due as well as a weekend trip coming up so it may be a few days before I can complete the wiring. From what I understand the FAAS and MID connection offer a coarse 2 position tone control " This switch selects either the EQ’d ghost® acoustic sound, or a second EQ curve with a boost in the mid range" which might be all I need if I want to tone the brightness of the piezo down. Thank you Mr. Newey for your time and patience. I will report back once I get time to finish this wiring. |
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Post by newey on Sept 16, 2021 10:01:21 GMT -5
" This switch selects either the EQ’d ghost® acoustic sound, or a second EQ curve with a boost in the mid range" which might be all I need if I want to tone the brightness of the piezo down. Hmmm. Their diagram (at least the one you posted) doesn't show any such switch. Is there a diagram of theirs showing those two connections being switched? |
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advani
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Post by advani on Sept 17, 2021 0:45:47 GMT -5
" This switch selects either the EQ’d ghost® acoustic sound, or a second EQ curve with a boost in the mid range" which might be all I need if I want to tone the brightness of the piezo down. Hmmm. Their diagram (at least the one you posted) doesn't show any such switch. Is there a diagram of theirs showing those two connections being switched? Does this help? The guitar is not a Les Paul but the Mid Dark switch wiring would be the same. i.postimg.cc/Vsh7NFMY/acousti-phonic-Black-Magic-Wiring-Diagram2.jpg |
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Post by newey on Sept 17, 2021 7:24:59 GMT -5
The guitar is not a Les Paul but the Mid Dark switch wiring would be the same. Yes, then your wiring of that will be the same. The only issue here seems to be your desire to use a push/pull for the piezo/mag switching. As I said, you can try it but I have serious doubts that it will work as you want it to, for the reason I said above. The company's diagram (second one you posted) shows the QSW as a push/pull on the piezo volume, but then says it's "piezo/both/mag" which makes no sense (since a push/pull has only 2 positions). In that second diagram, was that "push/pull" designation from them, or did you add that in because you planned to use a push/pull? All their other diagrams show a toggle for the QSW. If that is the company's diagram, you might drop their tech support folks an email and ask that question. If you added that "push/pull" designation to that second diagram, then what I said earlier applies. As I said, if you added the push/pull, it probably won't work, you'd need a 3-position switch of some type. So, it may be time to get a bit creative. Obviously, the easy solution is to drill a hole and install a 3-position toggle, just as shown on their other diagrams. But if you don't want to drill another hole, one possible solution (which came from our member JohnH) is to use a 3-position slide switch mountted on the back of the guitar, on the plastic disc cover that hides the hole for the pickup selector switch. Or, there are very tiny 3-way toggle with very short levers that could be used in a similar mounting. The downside is that it's not so easy to access the switch. By the way,did that QSW switch come with the kit? If so, you could test the operation of that switch (I'm wondering how it is configured, On-On-On or whatever), that would provide us with some more information. Another thought here, since you didn't say anything about using this in a mono configuration, you should be able to wire the QSW connections together (and, apparently, ground them both) so that you always had both piezo and mono coming out of the stereo jack/stereo cable, then use an ABY switch in the splitter box to switch between the 2 outputs. But that would mean you'd always need to use a sterao cable with the splitter, you wouldn't be able to use the guitar in a mono situation- well, you could use it, but both piezo and mag would always be on, with no way to switch between the 2. Even with that, since there are separate volumes, you could use the volume controls to turn piezo or mag all the way down- maybe not ideal, but an option if you're mostly (or always) going to be using it in stereo mode. |
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advani
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Post by advani on Sept 20, 2021 6:13:37 GMT -5
The guitar is not a Les Paul but the Mid Dark switch wiring would be the same. Yes, then your wiring of that will be the same. The only issue here seems to be your desire to use a push/pull for the piezo/mag switching. As I said, you can try it but I have serious doubts that it will work as you want it to, for the reason I said above. The company's diagram (second one you posted) shows the QSW as a push/pull on the piezo volume, but then says it's "piezo/both/mag" which makes no sense (since a push/pull has only 2 positions). In that second diagram, was that "push/pull" designation from them, or did you add that in because you planned to use a push/pull? All their other diagrams show a toggle for the QSW.If that is the company's diagram, you might drop their tech support folks an email and ask that question. If you added that "push/pull" designation to that second diagram, then what I said earlier applies. As I said, if you added the push/pull, it probably won't work, you'd need a 3-position switch of some type. So, it may be time to get a bit creative. Obviously, the easy solution is to drill a hole and install a 3-position toggle, just as shown on their other diagrams. But if you don't want to drill another hole, one possible solution (which came from our member JohnH) is to use a 3-position slide switch mountted on the back of the guitar, on the plastic disc cover that hides the hole for the pickup selector switch. Or, there are very tiny 3-way toggle with very short levers that could be used in a similar mounting. The downside is that it's not so easy to access the switch. By the way,did that QSW switch come with the kit? If so, you could test the operation of that switch (I'm wondering how it is configured, On-On-On or whatever), that would provide us with some more information. Another thought here, since you didn't say anything about using this in a mono configuration, you should be able to wire the QSW connections together (and, apparently, ground them both) so that you always had both piezo and mono coming out of the stereo jack/stereo cable, then use an ABY switch in the splitter box to switch between the 2 outputs. But that would mean you'd always need to use a sterao cable with the splitter, you wouldn't be able to use the guitar in a mono situation- well, you could use it, but both piezo and mag would always be on, with no way to switch between the 2. Even with that, since there are separate volumes, you could use the volume controls to turn piezo or mag all the way down- maybe not ideal, but an option if you're mostly (or always) going to be using it in stereo mode.Thanks Newey, Sorry for the delay in my response. I have been having some trouble with my new laptop (screen died for a second time in a month - it seems to be some software issue) so was unable to access the web till I got to another machine. The "push-pull" is from Graphtec (the company that sells the Ghost Acousti-Phonic system). I did not modify their diagrams in anyway as that would mislead you (if I do every modify a diagram I would use another colour and mention it so that those who are tying to help me can do so). see link. cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2372/8913/files/push-pull-as-a-quickswitch_1.pdfI have written to Graphtec but got no response which is why I approached this forum. I accept that a push-pull switch would have only 2 positions and would not be able to have all 3 positions of the quick switch. Hence I would not get 3 positions however I am happy with 2 positions. I would never use the the piezo only option as that sound is bright and brittle. If I wanted to "Go Acoustic" I would use an acoustic guitar. I do not expect a piezo bridge on an electric to perform like an acoustic guitar but was only looking to experiment with more tones in addition to the tones I get from the magnetic pickup. If I can get the "jangly" sound of a thin-line telecaster by blending the piezo with the magnetic pickups I would be more than satisfied. a. Mag + Piezo b. Mag only They did not supply a QSW switch with the kit I ordered. They have other more comprehensive kits that do come with a QSW switch and other electronics. see link. graphtech.com/products/ghost-acousti-phonic-preamp-1I would like to know how to wire the "QSW connections together" or have only 2 positions on the push-pull switch. I am comfortable using the volume control of the piezo to turn the piezo pick up in and out of the sound if I have to. The primary reason to have a break out box is that a electric guitar amp is not capable of accurately reproducing sound from a piezo. An acoustic guitar amp would do this more accurately. Hence having 2 amps, one for the magnetic pickups and one for the piezo, makes most sense. I could not find a suitable schematic on Graphtec's website. (see link). graphtech.com/pages/copy-of-ghost-wiring-diagramsThanks again for your time and energy. |
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Post by newey on Sept 20, 2021 11:45:37 GMT -5
OK, so the link there says, as to the push/pull: Which is what I said above, you won't get the "both" setting. Could it be rewired as you want it, so as to do "both/mag"? Maybe. First off, their push/pull diagram only shows 3 lugs being used, and doesn't say which ones- the drawing doesn't look like a P/P switch, so I'm guessing a bit. But it shows the piezo wired to one side, the mag wired to the other, and the center lug grounded. The diagram using the 3-way toggle switch shows the same wiring, so somehow grounding both connections seems to give both outputs (odd, but we don't know what is happening internally in the preamp, so who knows?). So, with those assumptions (which may be wrong), you could try wiring the P/P like this:  My confidence level that this is going to work correctly is about 65% or so. This should give you both mag/piezo when the P/P is "down", mag only when pulled. You had mentioned using the piezo volume to turn off the piezo, but I think you really meant to say that you would use the mag volume to turn the mag down, as the magnetic pickups are the ones you wanted to be "on" in both positions of the push/pull. |
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Post by advani on Sept 21, 2021 3:30:43 GMT -5
OK, so the link there says, as to the push/pull: Which is what I said above, you won't get the "both" setting. Could it be rewired as you want it, so as to do "both/mag"? Maybe. First off, their push/pull diagram only shows 3 lugs being used, and doesn't say which ones- the drawing doesn't look like a P/P switch, so I'm guessing a bit. But it shows the piezo wired to one side, the mag wired to the other, and the center lug grounded. The diagram using the 3-way toggle switch shows the same wiring, so somehow grounding both connections seems to give both outputs (odd, but we don't know what is happening internally in the preamp, so who knows?). So, with those assumptions (which may be wrong), you could try wiring the P/P like this: My confidence level that this is going to work correctly is about 65% or so. This should give you both mag/piezo when the P/P is "down", mag only when pulled. You had mentioned using the piezo volume to turn off the piezo, but I think you really meant to say that you would use the mag volume to turn the mag down, as the magnetic pickups are the ones you wanted to be "on" in both positions of the push/pull. Thank you so much for this. This is super. I have access to volume controls for all 3 pickups hence would be able to blend in as much Piezo tinny-ness as I feel. I doubt I would ever use a "full Piezo" output. I did not like the sound of just the piezo pickup and it definitely was far from sounding like an acoustic guitar. But I have a friend who has a Thin-line Squire Tele which has a nice "jangly" sound. Maybe the piezo (blended in with the magnetic pickups) can produce something that resembles the Thinline Telecaster. Thanks again. Let me open up the Les Paul and commence my "butchery". I will report back what I think of the sound. |
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Post by newey on Sept 21, 2021 4:31:50 GMT -5
Well, please let us know if this works or not, too. There's a bit of guesswork in this.
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advani
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Post by advani on Sept 21, 2021 4:50:11 GMT -5
Well, please let us know if this works or not, too. There's a bit of guesswork in this. For sure. That's the least I can do, besides any other guitar players who may be googling for this might benefit. I'll get some time over the weekend so by Monday I should be able to have some results. |
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Post by advani on Sept 22, 2021 3:15:04 GMT -5
OK, so the link there says, as to the push/pull: Which is what I said above, you won't get the "both" setting. Could it be rewired as you want it, so as to do "both/mag"? Maybe. First off, their push/pull diagram only shows 3 lugs being used, and doesn't say which ones- the drawing doesn't look like a P/P switch, so I'm guessing a bit. But it shows the piezo wired to one side, the mag wired to the other, and the center lug grounded. The diagram using the 3-way toggle switch shows the same wiring, so somehow grounding both connections seems to give both outputs (odd, but we don't know what is happening internally in the preamp, so who knows?). So, with those assumptions (which may be wrong), you could try wiring the P/P like this: My confidence level that this is going to work correctly is about 65% or so. This should give you both mag/piezo when the P/P is "down", mag only when pulled. You had mentioned using the piezo volume to turn off the piezo, but I think you really meant to say that you would use the mag volume to turn the mag down, as the magnetic pickups are the ones you wanted to be "on" in both positions of the push/pull. Hi Newey, So I tried the above wiring and got the following: Push-Pull switch down: NO Sound Push-Pull switch up: ONLY Magnetic pickups BTW while I was doing all this I realised that since I use magnetic pickups 90% of the time is there a wiring option where I can have magnetic output available even if there is no battery in the preamp? I tried adding an additional wire from the output of the "3-way-switch" of the Les Paul directly to tip of the output jack but that killed all volume so I removed the wire. The wiring diagram (made by me) as it stands right now.  |
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Post by newey on Sept 22, 2021 5:00:23 GMT -5
Hmm. As I said, a bit of guesswork here, since we don't know what's happening inside the preamp with respect to the 2 signals.
I'll assume you've check the connections to the switch and that it's not just a loose wire. I don't have any other ideas. You might try just disconnecting the QSW connections entirely, see if that gives you both signals together, or nothing. Apart from that possibility, you may have to use a 3-way switch as the manufacturer suggests.
As for running the mag output passively, bypassing the preamp, you would need to take the preamp out of the circuit, so you'd need a switch to swap the two outputs. I believe the diagrams that Acousti-phonic has in the link above include one to do just that; I didn't look at that one but I'm sure it has a switch to do that.
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Post by advani on Sept 23, 2021 2:39:54 GMT -5
Hmm. As I said, a bit of guesswork here, since we don't know what's happening inside the preamp with respect to the 2 signals. I'll assume you've check the connections to the switch and that it's not just a loose wire. I don't have any other ideas. You might try just disconnecting the QSW connections entirely, see if that gives you both signals together, or nothing. Apart from that possibility, you may have to use a 3-way switch as the manufacturer suggests. As for running the mag output passively, bypassing the preamp, you would need to take the preamp out of the circuit, so you'd need a switch to swap the two outputs. I believe the diagrams that Acousti-phonic has in the link above include one to do just that; I didn't look at that one but I'm sure it has a switch to do that.  I am checking for loose wires. I suspect the summing wire from the piezo might have shorted. Would shorting the MAG and TIP (Green and Blue) connections give me an option of getting a signal even if there is no battery and hence the preamp is off? |
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Post by newey on Sept 23, 2021 5:20:58 GMT -5
This: And this: Are electrically the same. So you already tried that. Here's how the company shows it being done. As I said, you need a switch to bypass the preamp:  As an aside, the diagrams with this thing are confusing. It's generally not a good idea to confuse one's customers. Note how the diagram is captioned, says it's using a push/pull switch to bypass the board, then the diagram shows a SPDT toggle switch being utilized to do so. Someone unfamiliar with different types of switches would be scratching his or her head looking at that. Of course, a push/pull can be easily substituted into the diagram, but don't tell me one thing and then show me another . . .  . Also, the resistor on the negative battery lead going to the switch is there to minimise an audible "pop" when switching between passive and active ouputs- but they don't list a value for the resistor, although they do give a value for the cap on the mag output. ( . . .climbing down off soapbox now . . . ) |
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Post by advani on Sept 23, 2021 5:44:31 GMT -5
This: And this: Are electrically the same. So you already tried that. Here's how the company shows it being done. As I said, you need a switch to bypass the preamp: As an aside, the diagrams with this thing are confusing. It's generally not a good idea to confuse one's customers. Note how the diagram is captioned, says it's using a push/pull switch to bypass the board, then the diagram shows a SPDT toggle switch being utilized to do so. Someone unfamiliar with different types of switches would be scratching his or her head looking at that. Of course, a push/pull can be easily substituted into the diagram, but don't tell me one thing and then show me another . . . . Also, the resistor on the negative battery lead going to the switch is there to minimise an audible "pop" when switching between passive and active ouputs- but they don't list a value for the resistor, although they do give a value for the cap on the mag output. ( . . .climbing down off soapbox now . . . ) Good news and some weird news. 1. Found the loose wire. It was the summing wire as I suspected. 2. The connection below seems to work. I get all 3 pickups on in one position and just the magnetics on in the second position  |
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Post by advani on Sept 23, 2021 5:56:33 GMT -5
This: And this: Are electrically the same. So you already tried that. Here's how the company shows it being done. As I said, you need a switch to bypass the preamp: As an aside, the diagrams with this thing are confusing. It's generally not a good idea to confuse one's customers. Note how the diagram is captioned, says it's using a push/pull switch to bypass the board, then the diagram shows a SPDT toggle switch being utilized to do so. Someone unfamiliar with different types of switches would be scratching his or her head looking at that. Of course, a push/pull can be easily substituted into the diagram, but don't tell me one thing and then show me another . . . . Also, the resistor on the negative battery lead going to the switch is there to minimise an audible "pop" when switching between passive and active ouputs- but they don't list a value for the resistor, although they do give a value for the cap on the mag output. ( . . .climbing down off soapbox now . . . ) I found that if I shorted the MAG and TIP connections I was able to use the magnetic pickups without a battery connected. They still work with a battery connected but at a much reduced volume so maybe I need some way to use a push-pull to switch from MAG MODE to PRE AMP MODE. My new schematic looks like this  Maybe I can use the same push pull I used for the QSW?  |
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Post by newey on Sept 23, 2021 12:01:43 GMT -5
If you do that, you would lose the ability to switch between the mag pickups through the preamp, and the mag pickups without the preamp. The "down" position of the push piull, which is now giving you the mag pickups alone through the preamp, would no longer be attached to the tip because the other half of the push/pull is breaking the tip connection.
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Post by advani on Sept 24, 2021 0:32:16 GMT -5
If you do that, you would lose the ability to switch between the mag pickups through the preamp, and the mag pickups without the preamp. The "down" position of the push piull, which is now giving you the mag pickups alone through the preamp, would no longer be attached to the tip because the other half of the push/pull is breaking the tip connection. Thanks, This is what I understand (I am not an engineer). 1. Down Position would: (a) short the Piezo output and (b) connect the TIP of the output jack to the magnetic pickup hence I would get only magnetic sound but without the preamp in the chain. 2. Up Position would: (b) "un-short" Piezo Output and (b) connect the TIP of the output jack to the TIP connection on the Acousti-Phonic which I assume carries either the magnetic signal or a blend of the magnetic and piezo signal. Hence in Down Position I assume I would get only Magnetic output bypassing the preamp and in Up position I would get a blended piezo+mag output via the preamp? Is this correct? If so I am happy with these options. For me, this guitar will be used primarily as an electric guitar without any piezo. The piezo just is something I want to experiment with. I have included a wiring diagram of what I am hoping to do. I don't know if it will work. Thank you!!!  |
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Post by newey on Sept 24, 2021 6:51:24 GMT -5
OK, if that's all you want. If so, however, your wiring of the push/pull switch is unnecessarily complicated. You can just use one-half of the push/pull switch to connect the tip to either the green passive mag output or to the blue tip wire from the preamp (which you show as wired to the left-hand pole of the push/pull). There is no need to wire the red QSW wire to the right-hand side of the switch or for the ground wire. That wiring was there (from my earlier diagram) to give you the mag pickup, by itself, through the preamp. But it's not doing anything now because when the switch is set to connect the red wire to that ground connection, the switch is simultaneously disconnecting the board from the tip, and connecting the mag pickups directly to the output.
However, your battery is still connected with this wiring when the magnetic pickups are being used. So, a better option, if the guitar is to be primarily used without the preamp or piezo, would be to use the right-hand side of the push/pull switch to disconnect the battery, so that the preamp isn't being powered when it's not being used.
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advani
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Post by advani on Sept 27, 2021 6:49:55 GMT -5
You can just use one-half of the push/pull switch to connect the tip to either the green passive mag output or to the blue tip wire from the preamp (which you show as wired to the left-hand pole of the push/pull). There is no need to wire the red QSW wire to the right-hand side of the switch or for the ground wire. However, your battery is still connected with this wiring when the magnetic pickups are being used. So, a better option, if the guitar is to be primarily used without the preamp or piezo, would be to use the right-hand side of the push/pull switch to disconnect the battery, so that the preamp isn't being powered when it's not being used. Thanks, Good idea. Once I get some free time I will use the other half of the push-pull switch to disconnect the battery. I have a crazy 2 weeks ahead so maybe after the 9th of September. |
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. Also, the resistor on the negative battery lead going to the switch is there to minimise an audible "pop" when switching between passive and active ouputs- but they don't list a value for the resistor, although they do give a value for the cap on the mag output.