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Post by MattB on Dec 8, 2021 13:22:36 GMT -5
Hey everybody. I'm fairly new to guitar modding, but I've been lurking here for a while and learning as much as I can. Without this site I wouldn't know half as much as I do, and I really appreciate all the work put in to share so much knowledge. I still have a lot to learn, so I hope you guys won't mind answering a few questions and sharing a little more knowledge with me. In this thread about the Gibson Varitone, I found some brief discussion about wiring a cap selector in series. Here's the most relevant parts: On the 10M resistors, anti pop, but also they are going to eat a little into the treble. Probably one of them is not significant on its own, but 5 togther is 2M extra load, and that will carve a db or two off the treble. If I had one, Id work out the cap values I wanted, then re-calculate them as a series chain of caps, which can then be all drained at once with a single 10M resistor, if pops are found to be significant. John, I believe the series chain is an inherently good idea. However I would recommend a 10Meg resistor across each individual capacitor. When you fold a series chain of capacitors upon itself, the net voltage becomes zero but the voltage across any individual capacitor is indeterminate. You could find yourself with an "equal but opposite" situation of trapped charges. And since the resistors would essentially be in series when the full chain is used, the loading effect of the resistors would never be less than 10Meg. In most cases, greater than. I think I understand the basic idea, but I have a few questions. First, here's my attempt at a diagram: 1)Will the diagram work as intended? Are there any changes or improvements I should make? 2)Could I use smaller resistors? My understanding is that a lower value of resistor will allow the cap to charge and discharge quicker, which means it should track the hot signal more closely. Would using smaller value resistors- maybe something like 2-5M- be more effecive at stopping pops? Would there be any downsides other than slightly reduced treble at one end of the chain? 3)Is there any reason to prefer a MBB or BBM type?
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Post by reTrEaD on Dec 8, 2021 14:58:05 GMT -5
1)Will the diagram work as intended? Are there any changes or improvements I should make? Your math looks right. Personally, I would have targeted a full 2:1 ratio for each step but what you have is okay. 2)Could I use smaller resistors? My understanding is that a lower value of resistor will allow the cap to charge and discharge quicker, which means it should track the hot signal more closely. Would using smaller value resistors- maybe something like 2-5M- be more effecive at stopping pops? Would there be any downsides other than slightly reduced treble at one end of the chain? You could use smaller resistors, but I should think that isn't really necessary. 3)Is there any reason to prefer a MBB or BBM type? Definitely MBB if you have a choice. Let's take a for instance ... You're in position 2, moving to position 1. With BBM, you essentially go to position 6 for the brief moment before actually making the connection at position 1. That's far less desirable than just making the change directly. If you can only get a BBM, that wouldn't be a deal-breaker but MBB is inherently better for this application.
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Post by MattB on Dec 8, 2021 17:05:50 GMT -5
Thanks for the help. Your math looks right. Personally, I would have targeted a full 2:1 ratio for each step but what you have is okay. I will actually be putting a 12 way version in the guitar, but I didn't want to make the diagram any more complicated than it needed to be. To be honest I didn't put as much effort as I could have into picking these values, and looking at it again I agree that what I have here isn't ideal. The full version should be a lot closer to an even ratio between settings. Definitely MBB if you have a choice. Let's take a for instance ... You're in position 2, moving to position 1. With BBM, you essentially go to position 6 for the brief moment before actually making the connection at position 1. That's far less desirable than just making the change directly. If you can only get a BBM, that wouldn't be a deal-breaker but MBB is inherently better for this application. I have one of each, but I already bought a really cool knob for the MBB, so that works out great.
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Post by JohnH on Dec 8, 2021 17:16:28 GMT -5
The diagram looks good to me and I agree that a MBB switch is whats needed.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2021 1:16:00 GMT -5
Does the 10M work for stopping the popping sounds, even on the lower capacitor valuee.?
I am guessing can't stop the pop from bypass to Capacitor
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