translating 3-way selector for series/parallel DPDT diagram

[greyson]

Hi everyone! This is a *fantastic* forum you've got here, so a quick "Thank you" to y'all before I get to my first post. [/font]

Now, I know what you're thinking: "we've answered this series/parallel switch stuff a billion times..." but I did a search and came up empty on the specific thing I want to do...  

I'm rewiring a jazzmaster so that I have the standard 3-way selector, but instead of the rhythm circuit, I'm just going to have that slide toggle go series/parallel. 

I was looking through this post: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/7876 - specifically this diagram that someone named "Ace" has created:

Feb 2, 2017 19:42:18 GMT -5 newey said:

I thought I would repost Ace's diagram so we can discuss it without having to click back and forth.

That is exactly what I want, but I'd like to use this Gibson-style DPDT (4 pole) toggle: www.bitterrootguitars.com/toggle-switch-switchcraft-l-angle-dpdt-p/081375ch.htm - There is a schematic on that site, but it's basically (2) SPST 3way switches together (A, A+B, B) instead of the DP3T in Ace's diagram (A, B, C).

The questions: 1) is there a 3-way Gibson style switch that is DP3T (that is NOT the free-way switch, hehe), or 2) is there a way to translate the DPDT (4 pole) to work with Ace's diagram? 

I've been scouring for days, and clearly I can't figure out the logic... if anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them! 

[Deleted]

nice looking switch

sadly all i could think of is
Down
1) N
2) N+B
3) B

and UP
1) NxB
2) NxB
3) NxB


I can get start 1 or 2 .. 2 .. 2 or 3

[MattB]

Hi, greyson, and welcome to the forum.

I think I know what model of switch you need, but I'm not 100% sure, so I'm going to show my working and hopefully it will all make sense.

First, here's the diagram again:

The top pole of SW1 has the black wire connected to grey in position 1, and blue in positions 2&3.

The bottom pole of SW1 has the red wire connected to purple in positions 1&2, and green in position 3.

That means SW1 doesn't need to be a "true" DP3T, like the blade or rotary switch suggested in the diagram. A DPDT centre-on switch will work.

By DPDT centre-on I mean a switch like this, where both poles are connected in the middle, and pushing the switch to either side switches one pole to the opposite connection:

I have coloured the switch lugs to match the wiring colours in the diagram above.

The toggle switch you linked to is also a "DPDT" which is on in the middle, but as you correctly point out, it's really two 3-way pickup selctors in one, which isn't the same thing, and can't do what you need.

Here is a link to the Switchcraft Engineering Design Guide. It's a 333 page PDF, so it's a big file and might take a while to load. It has the full range of Switchcraft products, with diagrams and schematics.

www.switchcraft.com/Documents/EDG4.pdf

Go to page 294 of the catalogue (page 299 of the PDF). This is the start of the lever switch section. Take a look at the Basic Contact Forms section at the bottom of the first coulmn. These forms are the basic building blocks which are combined together to make up a full switch.

 

Note that Form B is an SPST and Form C is a SPDT.

Now scroll down to page 297. The two tables show the switch function of each model. The table for three-postion switches has two columns, pos. 1 and pos. 2. As far as I can tell, each column describes one side of the switch.

The switch you linked to is a 12015 model. The 12015 entry on the table tells us pos. 1 and pos. 2 are both 2-B . And looking at the diagram in your link, we can see that it does have two SPST (aka Form B) contacts on each side.

Model 12036 is listed as 1-C/1-C. I think that means each side of the switch is an SPDT. As far as I can tell, this is the switch you want.

I would expect that in the centre position the middle and inner lug on each side would be connected, and pushing the switch to one side would switch the opposite side from "middle and inner connected" to "middle and outer connected". Like a regular 3-way toggle with an extra contact on each side. That gives you the centre-on switching that you need.

You need to add an L to the model number for a locking switch, so the model you want is (probably) a 12036L.

Here's an Ebay listing:

www.ebay.com/itm/143776879369

[greyson]

Well then! This is exactly the stuff I need to know... Thank you! Dang...

I can also call Switchcraft tomorrow and ask them if that switch (12036L) behaves the way you mentioned. It's *just* pricy enough for me to want to be sure... 

Then I will probably buy 3 if it works because my luck is such that I find the thing that works, it gets discontinued, my *one* thing breaks and then I'm SOL for repair. LOL. 

I will report back for sure... More to follow... 

(but seriously, thank you! I really appreciate the help!)

[sumgai]

greyson,


First, to The NutzHouse!


Second, in their desire to help you, the above posters have omitted an important question: Do you want to have series no matter what position the pickup selector is in??  Or do you want series (interchangeable with parallel) only in the middle position?

For reference, asmith's (I'm the one who first called him 'Ace') diagram is for the second option, Ser/Par in the middle position only.  But you can have it either way, as you wish.

Am I to understand that you'll be pulling out the standard Jazzmaster pickup selector, and replacing it with something else?  You do realize, do you not, that for either way I've asked about (above), you can leave the stock switch in place.  Your linked switch is vast overkill, but perhaps there was another reason you chose it, I'm not certain.  If you want it, fine, that's your call.  I'm only alerting you to the fact that your wallet is about to undergo a rather severe dollar-ectomy, all things considered.

HTH




sumgai


(For other members wondering if I've lost my marbles, here's a hint: Unklmickey's Modules.)

[greyson]

Apr 20, 2022 0:57:35 GMT -5 sumgai said:

greyson,


First, to The NutzHouse!


Second, in their desire to help you, the above posters have omitted an important question: Do you want to have series no matter what position the pickup selector is in??  Or do you want series (interchangeable with parallel) only in the middle position?

For reference, asmith's (I'm the one who first called him 'Ace') diagram is for the second option, Ser/Par in the middle position only.  But you can have it either way, as you wish.

Am I to understand that you'll be pulling out the standard Jazzmaster pickup selector, and replacing it with something else?  You do realize, do you not, that for either way I've asked about (above), you can leave the stock switch in place.  Your linked switch is vast overkill, but perhaps there was another reason you chose it, I'm not certain.  If you want it, fine, that's your call.  I'm only alerting you to the fact that your wallet is about to undergo a rather severe dollar-ectomy, all things considered.

Hello Sumgai!

It is the latter situation you describe (sorry angellahash, hehe) - series/parallel in middle position only, other positions are neck (top) or bridge (bottom) regardless of where the slider lands. In my Jazzmaster, I'm taking out the rhythm circuit (I just don't use it), but using that upper slide switch for series/parallel (which is much more useful to me). 

Some historical semi-relevance: I already tried doing this on another Jazzmaster guitar using the standard jazzmaster/gibson 3-way switch (a variation of this: www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/series_howto.gif) - it works how I want in all positions EXCEPT in position 3 when the slide switch is in series (the neck pickup loses ground connection, which is what I find happens in all of these scenarios). Thus my hunt for a solution that uses the same style 3-way toggle, but does what Ace's diagram does above. A unicorn situation it seems, hehe... The 12015 switch link I found was the closest thing to the switch in Ace's diagram that my unfamiliar brain could find in a Gibson-style toggle, prompting my query to see if it could be translated somehow OR if there was another switch I just didn't know about... 

But to the task at-hand: From what I can tell, If MattB's comments are correct, and a 12036 does that type of switching in his drawing (btw, seriously thank you for the color coding and everything, hehe), it seems like it would work... Are you saying that I don't need that type of switch to achieve series/parallel in middle only? I'm open to any ideas... I'm not as worried about spending extra for the right product - but yes, to your point, I don't want to go bankrupt in my quest for a switch, hehe. 

Any thoughts there? Thank you in advance! :-)

[newey]

sumgai-

Am I to understand that you'll be pulling out the standard Jazzmaster pickup selector, and replacing it with something else? You do realize, do you not, that for either way I've asked about (above), you can leave the stock switch in place. Your linked switch is vast overkill, but perhaps there was another reason you chose it, I'm not certain. If you want it, fine, that's your call. I'm only alerting you to the fact that your wallet is about to undergo a rather severe dollar-ectomy, all things considered.

OK, now I'm all confused. The stock JM pickup selector is a regular Gibson-style three-way toggle (i.e., SPDT), right? With that switch, the center position is just shorting the two outside positions together. IIRC, some few months ago we had a discussion on doing a series/parallel switch in conjunction with this type of toggle, and the only solution (again, as I recall) was to have the series setting work in either the neck position or the bridge position but not in the center?

I'm thinking that greyson needs a 2-pole selector if he is going to have the series setting in the center as opposed to at one of the end positions. If I'm thinking wrong and it is possible with a SPDT, I guess I'll need to see a diagram . . .

[greyson]

I called switchcraft and it went to voicemail for every directory option they gave me.

I'll do a little digging and get back to y'all - stay tuned!

[greyson]

One thing I came across... this old thread on talk-bass: www.talkbass.com/threads/dpdt-center-on-gibson-style-toggle-switch.773998/

scroll down to the last-ish post and he talks of modifying the Gibson style switch he has by combining parts of multiple switches... Anyone ever tried that?

I'm not stranger to pulling apart CTS pots and swapping wafers, but switches are a different animal... hehe. I'm pretty handy and meticulous though... it is tempting...

[greyson]

And just like that, switchcraft sends me the schematic for the non-locking version (but said it shows the schematic).



I think this is all I need to pull the trigger... I did ask them if there's a straight/vertical version of this (I'm doubting it, but maybe they can make one?) - cause if there is, I will be a very VERY happy boy. hehe.

[sumgai]

greyson,


Hold the phone, I'll have a diagram for you later tonight. Promise.

---

newey,

I don't recall that earlier discussion, perhaps I was out to lunch at that moment? But if so, then you/I/we/someone need(s) to go back and point the OP to this new thread for a solution.

Again, I have the diagrams for both ways already designed and built. But I'm using a different computer, whereby I'll need to dredge the old one out of the closet, copy the relevant files to my backup drive, and then hook that to my new laptop. But right now, the wife is putting the arm on my time. You understand. I'll be up late tonight to get this thread squared away.

HTH





sumgai

[sumgai]

greyson,


It doesn't pay to get old, trust me. (Despite cynical1's platitude about privilege and denial....)

I'm done with making the diagrams, but I've run out of steam. (It's one in the morning.) I'll post them tomorrow morning, when the wife is gone for a doctor's appointment and can't impede my progress. I know, it should take only a moment to post them, but I've run into a snag with my new setup. I'll explain later.

Sorry!





sumgai

[sumgai]

Why am I still here......



greyson, I found an error in my diagram. I had posted it many years ago, and no one jumped up and claimed the error. I'm somewhat surprised.

Anyway, I have to head out for a short while, I'll be back later today to finish up this on-going saga. I know, I know, I promised last night. Ask the other members, they'll tell you that I'm good for it, but sometimes life gets in my way. While on the road, I'll think about how to get past my mistake.... shouldn't be too hard, right?





sumgai

[greyson]

I wait semi-patiently, hehe... Although when it comes to parts, it is a bit frustrating these days, though, yea? I used to be able to go to my local instrument shop and get parts or ask questions - now they direct me to their website, even though their warehouse is down the block, and then I wait for parts in the hopes that they don't break in transit (CTS pots in particular don't travel well - have had several wafers break in soft packaging, used because the pots are "durable" - yea; under a pickguard, not in the hands of the USPS!).

It's hard to be a dinosaur... ANYWAY - long-winded way of saying I appreciate the efforts here among an unexpected adventure. and that I am over-caffeinated today. ;-)

[sumgai]

greyson,


Well, here we go..... but not in the correct direction.

Sadly, I have to give up and admit that I misspoke when I said that a standard Jazzmaster pickup selector could be used to obtain either ser/par in middle only, or series in all three positions. Or more precisely, I was wrong on the first count - I can do the all-three positions circuit without breaking a sweat. But that's not what you want.

So go ahead and purchase that hefty switch from on-line, because the drawback that's preventing me from accomplishing the mission is the missing terminal that Ace portrays in his diagram.... we need that terminal, or all is lost.

I'll save my diagram, and adjust it to fit the switch you purchase. Let us know what you end up with, OK?

HTH

---

newey,

If you do happen to trip across that previous thread on this same topic, keep it in the back of your mind. I'm planning on starting a thread somewhere like in References or somewhere, wherein I'll detail all of the possible permutations of this experience. By that I mean for rotary, blade, and 3-position toggle switches, both series-dominant and ser/par middle-only. But I want to include whatever switch that greyson buys, so I'm gonna wait until that particular sojourn is completed.




sumgai

[greyson]

hey - thank you! I went into overdrive quickly and did a quick illustrator job to visualize your now-deleted post, and think I came up with the same conclusion - there's always a position or 2 that renders something non-working.

What I can say is this: I ordered 2 of those 12036L switches... I'm betting that moving forward, if it works (I'm optimistic, though), we'll have to do a tutorial on modifying gibson style switches to have extra poles, per the talk-bass link I posted earlier... I might make a video for how to do that - the 12036L is NOT an easy switch to find, and that eBay vendor will only have a few left soon, hehe. Also, for a vertical version (not the right angle one), there was never a 1-c/1-c version made at all, so a home-made version is the way to go...

I'll get the switch next week, and also need to make a new pickguard (did you know the custom guard makers are all slammed? current one is cracked and will not go back together once I pull it off the guitar, so I gotta route my own - I'm very DIY, hehe), so it'll be a minute until I can verify it, but I will report back! :-)

Any extra thoughts? ideas?

[Yogi B]

Apr 22, 2022 20:19:56 GMT -5 sumgai said:

Well, here we go..... but not in the correct direction.

Ah good, you caught it. I was about to point out that you had series in all three positions (I have an equivalent diagram to that you did briefly post, adapted from reTrEaD's image of how to do the same with a regular 3-terminal SPDT).

---

Additionally, though it's a bit late now, here's your regular reminder that the Electroswitch JT-1601 also exists. Note as the switches body suggests, it has a clickier feel / shorter travel closer to that of a mini toggle switch than the full-size Switchcraft counterpart which you may or may not prefer (and although it is a DPDT ON/ON/ON, it comes prewired with a jumper converting it to SP3T operation as it's primary intended use is 3-pickup guitars).

[sumgai]

Apr 22, 2022 21:58:38 GMT -5 Yogi B said:

Apr 22, 2022 20:19:56 GMT -5 sumgai said:

Well, here we go..... but not in the correct direction.

Ah good, you caught it. I was about to point out that you had series in all three positions (I have an equivalent diagram to that you did briefly post, adapted from reTrEaD's image of how to do the same with a regular 3-terminal SPDT).

I kept looking at it, and saying to myself "This'll work, no problem!". After about 2 hours (off and on) of bashing it together, I had to see it "in print" for the proverbial light bulb to start glowing - without those third terminals, it's a series dominant setup.  Geez.... didja ever have one of those days where you just know that your college instructor was correct when he said: "One 'aw crap' resets all attaboys."

(My earlier remark about a circuit that I had designed and posted for someone had a different error, but the net effect was the same - not what the customer ordered.   I think I sense a pattern here....)

I can't say as everything is ship-shape in sumgai-land, but you know the old saying: "Any day that I wake up, everything after that is a bonus!"  I"m gettin' by, but the ratio of good days to bad days is subject to change, ya know what I mean?




sumgai

[greyson]

Apr 22, 2022 21:58:38 GMT -5 Yogi B said:

Apr 22, 2022 20:19:56 GMT -5 sumgai said:

Well, here we go..... but not in the correct direction.

Ah good, you caught it. I was about to point out that you had series in all three positions (I have an equivalent diagram to that you did briefly post, adapted from reTrEaD's image of how to do the same with a regular 3-terminal SPDT).

---

Additionally, though it's a bit late now, here's your regular reminder that the Electroswitch JT-1601 also exists. Note as the switches body suggests, it has a clickier feel / shorter travel closer to that of a mini toggle switch than the full-size Switchcraft counterpart which you may or may not prefer (and although it is a DPDT ON/ON/ON, it comes prewired with a jumper converting it to SP3T operation as it's primary intended use is 3-pickup guitars).

Yes! I did see that, and even have a version of it that a buddy gave me (it's on-on, though - but you are right in that the click feel is more similar to that of a pedal toggle)... I've just gotten so used to that Gibson style switch that I'm willing to make a fool of myself trying to find such a unicorn!

We've exhausted all possible scenarios where a typical gibson style switch is involved... Asmith/Ace has drawn up the diagram that works, and we may have found the gibson style switch that works (or subsequently, we will learn to modify the switches actually available for purchase) - we're going to solve the internet's biggest mystery of the last decade once and for all! ;-)

[newey]

we're going to solve the internet's biggest mystery of the last decade once and for all! ;-)

Bigger than finding Carmen Sandiego?

[greyson]

I received the switches, and they function as MattB thought they would! These will work!

The bad news: 1) switchcraft said the 12036L switch is discontinued. 2) one of the 2 that I ordered doesn't work right (but I think I can tweak it to work, and I got 2 so I'd have an extra), so that kinda sucks... BUT...

Looking at how the switch works, it would not be hard to modify any switchcraft switch to operate the same way - which I'm going to do to achieve a vertical/straight version of this switch for another guitar. Yay!

I made a diagram of how this might look with wires...



I'm excited to get this wired up and see if it's working... more to follow!

[MattB]

That's great news! I was fairly hopeful it would work, but it's good to know for sure.

Apr 25, 2022 20:10:19 GMT -5 greyson said:

Looking at how the switch works, it would not be hard to modify any switchcraft switch to operate the same way - which I'm going to do to achieve a vertical/straight version of this switch for another guitar. Yay!

I would love to see some pictures when you do. I have a Jaguar/Jazzmaster-ish design that's been sitting on the back burner for a while because I haven't been able to work out a switching scheme I'm happy with. If I can custom build something I have a lot more options.

[greyson]

Apr 26, 2022 4:41:37 GMT -5 MattB said:

That's great news! I was fairly hopeful it would work, but it's good to know for sure.

Apr 25, 2022 20:10:19 GMT -5 greyson said:

Looking at how the switch works, it would not be hard to modify any switchcraft switch to operate the same way - which I'm going to do to achieve a vertical/straight version of this switch for another guitar. Yay!

I would love to see some pictures when you do. I have a Jaguar/Jazzmaster-ish design that's been sitting on the back burner for a while because I haven't been able to work out a switching scheme I'm happy with. If I can custom build something I have a lot more options.

here's some pictures of the switch in all 3 positions (this is the semi-broken one - on the right side, you can see the middle pole is bent a little funkier than the left... it sticks in that position and has bent the pole a bit, but you can still get the gist here).







The metal strips are all held together by those wafers between them and a couple of flathead screws. You could (theoretically, anyway) easily sacrifice one switch to add an extra metal strip and spacers on both outer sides of a standard gibson switch, vertical/straight or right-angle, with maybe a dot of solder or something to create a connection point and a couple longer screws from a hardware store. (not sure if that made sense, but it stands to reason that this would have no issue working).

Food for thought - or if you have a couple laying around, you could give it a whirl and let us know! hehe...

[MattB]

Apr 26, 2022 10:52:00 GMT -5 greyson said:

[here's some pictures of the switch in all 3 positions (this is the semi-broken one - on the right side, you can see the middle pole is bent a little funkier than the left... it sticks in that position and has bent the pole a bit, but you can still get the gist here).

Thanks, that's very helpful.

Apr 26, 2022 10:52:00 GMT -5 greyson said:

The metal strips are all held together by those wafers between them and a couple of flathead screws. You could (theoretically, anyway) easily sacrifice one switch to add an extra metal strip and spacers on both outer sides of a standard gibson switch, vertical/straight or right-angle, with maybe a dot of solder or something to create a connection point and a couple longer screws from a hardware store. (not sure if that made sense, but it stands to reason that this would have no issue working).

Food for thought - or if you have a couple laying around, you could give it a whirl and let us know! hehe...

It looks like it wouldn't be too hard to fabricate a new strip from scratch, so a second switch might not even be needed. My old Hondo Les Paul might still be in the attic at my parent's house- next time I visit I'll try to dig it out and see what kind of switch it has.

[greyson]

Apr 27, 2022 6:57:49 GMT -5 MattB said:

Apr 26, 2022 10:52:00 GMT -5 greyson said:

The metal strips are all held together by those wafers between them and a couple of flathead screws. You could (theoretically, anyway) easily sacrifice one switch to add an extra metal strip and spacers on both outer sides of a standard gibson switch, vertical/straight or right-angle, with maybe a dot of solder or something to create a connection point and a couple longer screws from a hardware store. (not sure if that made sense, but it stands to reason that this would have no issue working).

Food for thought - or if you have a couple laying around, you could give it a whirl and let us know! hehe...

It looks like it wouldn't be too hard to fabricate a new strip from scratch, so a second switch might not even be needed. My old Hondo Les Paul might still be in the attic at my parent's house- next time I visit I'll try to dig it out and see what kind of switch it has.

You are correct! doesn't have to be one of their parts, per se... I suppose it would just look nicer, but at $25-30 a switch, that's quite a cost when combining multiple, hehe... THAT BEING SAID...

here's a few pics of what it looks like to take one apart (I'm getting a replacement, so I figured I could see how it ticks):







More to follow once I get the vertical/straight ones...

[greyson]

Hey everyone - finally bit the bullet and wired this up yesterday... AND THE RESULT IS... almost perfect, but mixed. WOMP.

Everything works EXCEPT when the on-on toggle is in series and the 3-way switch is on the neck pickup. it works as expected in every other position, though, so that's the furthest I've gotten with it, hehe.

I really couldn't tell you WHY, either, because the switch literally connects the bridge positive to its own ground first - and yet, I'm getting signal from both pickups. The wiring is exactly as it was on my diagram, and there's no physical connection problem on the actual switch (it wouldn't work in all 3 positions when on-on is in parallel if there was a connection problem) - anyone have thoughts or see an error in my diagram above that I'm just not seeing?

*sigh*

I might try to do this with LEDs on a breadboard and see if I can troubleshoot it - this way I spare myself and my poor guitar another round or 2 of lifting up the pickguard.

would love thoughts... we're on the cusp of a breakthrough - I CAN FEEL IT!!! ;-)

As always, thank you in advance! (oh, and here's the guitar - made the pickguard over the weekend at a co-worker's garage... lookin good! well, to me anyway, hehe)

[MattB]

May 9, 2022 8:11:46 GMT -5 greyson said:

Everything works EXCEPT when the on-on toggle is in series and the 3-way switch is on the neck pickup. it works as expected in every other position, though, so that's the furthest I've gotten with it, hehe.

I really couldn't tell you WHY, either, because the switch literally connects the bridge positive to its own ground first - and yet, I'm getting signal from both pickups. The wiring is exactly as it was on my diagram, and there's no physical connection problem on the actual switch (it wouldn't work in all 3 positions when on-on is in parallel if there was a connection problem) - anyone have thoughts or see an error in my diagram above that I'm just not seeing?

I think the problem is most likely the switch connection between the bridge hot and it's ground.

Your switch would work fine in parallel mode even if the bridge hot isn't grounded in the neck only position, because parallel mode also breaks the bridge pickup hot connection when you switch to the neck.
It's only in series mode that shunting the bridge pickup is needed, because in series mode the bridge hot is always connected to the neck ground.

I would double check the connection between the bridge ground and lug B3 on the switch (following the numbering on your diagram) and the connection between lugs B2 and B3 when in the neck only position.

I like the guitar, very cool. That pickguard looks great against the white body.

[greyson]

May 9, 2022 12:09:54 GMT -5 MattB said:

May 9, 2022 8:11:46 GMT -5 greyson said:

Everything works EXCEPT when the on-on toggle is in series and the 3-way switch is on the neck pickup. it works as expected in every other position, though, so that's the furthest I've gotten with it, hehe.

I really couldn't tell you WHY, either, because the switch literally connects the bridge positive to its own ground first - and yet, I'm getting signal from both pickups. The wiring is exactly as it was on my diagram, and there's no physical connection problem on the actual switch (it wouldn't work in all 3 positions when on-on is in parallel if there was a connection problem) - anyone have thoughts or see an error in my diagram above that I'm just not seeing?

I think the problem is most likely the switch connection between the bridge hot and it's ground.

Your switch would work fine in parallel mode even if the bridge hot isn't grounded in the neck only position, because parallel mode also breaks the bridge pickup hot connection when you switch to the neck.
It's only in series mode that shunting the bridge pickup is needed, because in series mode the bridge hot is always connected to the neck ground.

I would double check the connection between the bridge ground and lug B3 on the switch (following the numbering on your diagram) and the connection between lugs B2 and B3 when in the neck only position.

I like the guitar, very cool. That pickguard looks great against the white body.

Thanks for the compliment! PG took a little time, but I'm pleased overall...

I went ahead and breadboarded this using LEDs as my "pickups" and a battery as my "pots/output" - it worked perfectly, and I'm including a picture of it because it's slightly hilarious.

So yea, I must've crossed a wire someplace... I'm also realizing that I went back and forth to the slider a couple more times than necessary, so a general clean-up is in order... Anyway: VERDICT - ALL OF THIS WORKS!!! Also... PICTURE!

[greyson]

hey everyone! Just a quick THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU (especially to mr. MattB ) for helping me figure this one out!

I reworked my wiring and can verify officially that this wiring works! The 3-way selector in position one is always bridge, and in position 3 is always neck, while the middle position is both pups in either series or parallel. WOO!

The switchcraft switches I ordered were sticking a bit, so I took my old non-switchcraft SPDT version and modified it to the 12036L setup - now that I know, it's REALLY easy to modify pretty much any of these switches, which is good because the 12036L is discontinued. Takes a little patience, but I can do a separate thread on it at a later date.

While I didn't use the rhythm circuit much on the jazzmaster, it is a nice feature - the series switch kind of does a similar thing, warming/fattening up the tone a bit (though not as extreme, but far more useful for my needs).

Here's my updated wiring, which was streamlined a bit to use less wires and whatnot. Thanks again, and happy modding!

[greyson]

Not to resurrect a dead animal, but I wanted to say I successfully used this wiring in 2 of my guitars now - and one of them used the straight-style gibson jack.

I took pictures of the end results of merging switches (doing it step-by-step was impossible because of some troubleshooting), but you can see that it was a matter of just taking 2 switches and merging 2 wafers onto the outside of a 3DPT toggle.

The TRICKY part was the tubing that goes through each wafer and spacer that keeps the pieces from touching ground. After looking carefully at what switchcraft themselves did, the answer is HEAT SHRINK! Der... I had plenty of it! 

Got that in, got a couple of new screws and bolts, tightened everything up, adjusted the bends on the wafers and it works like a charm!

Thanks again for ALL of you help on this one... it's a pretty cool switch to have. :-)