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Post by warmstrat on Apr 13, 2008 15:41:18 GMT -5
Ok, so I got my hands on a luffly old Charvel acoustic ("Model 550M" says the sticker in the soundhole) from a friend of mine's mum - it had suffered rather badly in their moving house, and needed some love and attention, so I've taken it in and will be returning it when it's feeling a little less sorry for itself. Here's the deal: It's pretty. I get 'wow's at the finish and the grain and the colour of the wood - but I have no idea what it is. It's nothing like anything else I've ever seen, anyway. Does anyone know what this is? One of the machine heads was broken, so I took it out along with another one (so's I could show the music shop salesman what I was looking for) and discovered to my horror that the little hexagonal nut/bolts that hold the peg into the head have in most cases split - this being what caused the first one to snap clean out. So unless anyone else has any good ideas, I'm gonna have to buy a whole new set of tuners. Does anyone know what this guitar is worth, how old it is, etc when well-repaired? The guitar was also left out of a case whilst heavy renovations and building took place and as such was covered with a thick layer of grey (mostly cement) dust. This dried out the untreated fretboard and bridge, so after dusting it down I applied a nice coat of household Teak Oil to both (it works a treat, by the way, and also leaves your frets clean and sleek). ... I wish I had before and after pictures to show how amazing that transition was. Teak Oil is also useful, my father pointed out, for repairing small dings in the varnish where the varnish has gone yellow or milky - the oil soaks between the cracks of varnish and darkens them (mostly) back to the correct colour. On the subject of polishes, there is a furniture polish we have in South Africa called 'Mr. Min'. This is an aerosol polish/cleaning agent for varnished or otherwise treated woods, and on the gloss body finish of both this acoustic and my own guitars, it works just as well as any "Guitar Polish". On a whim, I rubbed down the strings with the now-polish soaked rag, and whadda you know? It removes corrosion from strings and leaves them sleek and shiny and lovely to play on, too. All in all, a rather productive day!
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Post by newey on Apr 13, 2008 17:02:25 GMT -5
Yes. This usually happens due to over-tightening. I've done the same thing with these hex-nut style retainers several times, until I learned that, just because it has a hex nut on it, doesn't necessarily mean it wants a hex wrench put on it. So, now I finger tighten, then give it a little extra twist with a needlenose pliers- just enough to bring it snug to the washer. As far as the wood, value, etc, I have no clue. You might post it on VintAxe Forums, see if anyone knows anything about it.
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Post by cynical1 on Apr 13, 2008 18:55:40 GMT -5
warmstrat -
From what I've been able to find out, the 550 should be a spruce top and a mahogany bottom. Some reports suggest its a plywood body, others state they have a solid wood guitar. Your results may vary. Either way, everyone agrees the manufacturing country was Korea.
Resale is not particularly high, seems to run in the $150-$250 range, although from what I read the sound far eclipses its resale value. Sort of like Peavey...
It almost looks like someone used a heli-coil to fix that tuner. Either way, eBay would be my first stop to look for replacement tuners. Shouldn't cost you more then 20-25 bucks for a decent used set.
Happy Trails
Cynical1
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Post by lpf3 on Apr 13, 2008 19:10:31 GMT -5
Warmstrat-
From here that top looks like a porous , open grain like mahogany , a little light for mahogany but that's my final ansah .
As for the tuners , I agree your'e probably lookin at a new set . If you can't find 'em used Stew Mac's got em from $20 & up
Good luck -
lpf3
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Post by sumgai on Apr 14, 2008 2:00:52 GMT -5
ws,
The top wood is definitely mahogany, or a very close facsimile thereof. I do note the interesting direction in which the grain of the rosewood runs, on the fingerboard.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by warmstrat on Apr 17, 2008 17:05:20 GMT -5
Thanks, guys... That sorts out my curiosities, anyway. The top and bottom woods are the same, by the way...
Will be investigating prices for tuners in the near future.
Thanks again...
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Post by warmstrat on Jun 21, 2008 10:16:57 GMT -5
So I got the parts... But here's a problem. Can you spot it? Making new screw holes isn't a problem with me, but I don't know how I'm supposed to seal up the old holes. I don't want to have to refinish anything Any ideas? P.S. Is it necessary to drill new screw holes, or will merely screwing the screws in suffice?
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Post by ccso8462 on Jun 21, 2008 12:58:08 GMT -5
I'm a big fan of pilot holes if you're not re-using what's there. Just to relieve some strain on the wood. If the new screws have enough "bite" into the wood in the old holes, I don't think new holes are necessary.
JMHO
Carl
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Post by D2o on Jun 21, 2008 13:16:35 GMT -5
If new holes are necessary, seeing as you've established that it's not a particularly valuable guitar, and the compliments you've been getting likely are not about the back of the headstock, why not just just use a similar colour wood wax putty stick to fill in the holes? It won't be hard and durable, but who cares?
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normh
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by normh on Jul 19, 2008 1:03:51 GMT -5
What I do to fill tuner screw holes is to coat a round toothpick with wood glue, press it in the hole as far as I can by hand and let it dry. When Dry, I cut the toothpick with an exacto knife and do a spot refinish.
The finish looks like it is lacquer. A spot finish repair is easy on something as small as those holes.
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Post by D2o on Jul 19, 2008 13:57:00 GMT -5
Hi norm, First off - good idea. That sounds pretty easy and pretty durable ... and likely no less pretty than plain old putty Second - just wanted to wish you a warm WELCOME! to the GN2 forum Stick around! DD
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andrew
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Post by andrew on Jul 19, 2008 14:18:37 GMT -5
i havnt seen a charvel acoustic before.... wow.....
looks like the pickgaurd is aftermarket.. or has come off and been put on badly.... should line up with the paint around the soundhole....
you HAVE to pre drill whenever working with guitars..... you drive those screws straight into that headstock and i garuntee it will split.....
to cover up the old holes in the headstock.... shove a matchstick in... cut it so it goes into the headstock then fill over it with epoxy....araldite.... you can also colour it with a brown texta to try and match the grain.....
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Post by warmstrat on Jul 20, 2008 13:13:46 GMT -5
I screwed 'em in a few weeks ago with no pre-drilling and it worked like a charm. Pity you didn't put any money on your guarantee. The pickguard does look a little skew, now that you mention it - but I'd never noticed before. I think it looks worse in the picture for some reason. I left the holes as is, rather than do a bad patch job, and have had no complaints from the guitar's happy owner. None at all.
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