~Maxx
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Post by ~Maxx on Feb 24, 2011 21:24:01 GMT -5
Hi folks. I'm setting up a partscaster with some Lace Sensors (neck & mid are Golds, bridge is Red/Gold dually) that I had lying around. I've never had active electronics before, and don't know much at all about them - but figured this might be a good occasion to try them out. I'm looking at the Neovin PRE-1 Active preamp from Guitar Fetish. I had intended for this guitar to have only two knobs (master vol & master tone), and I believe (based on the pic at the website) I can still accomplish this while using this preamp. There are some things I'm not sure of though. I'm debating weather I need the full kit, or just the preamp ($5 less - not that that makes much difference). I already have a 250k push/pull pot, and I'm using toggle switches instead of the 5-way. Is 250k alright for this setup? Or are 500k pots required? If I have to use 500k, what effect will that have on my sound when the active circuit is bypassed? Also - I see that the switching output jack in the full kit is rather large. There's no way that it will mount on the back of a standard recessed Strat jack plate without drilling out the cavity (which I'm not opposed to doing - but it's just more work that I'd rather avoid). The preamp alone, however, appears to come with a standard size jack that has the extra connection on it for the battery lead. Anyone know what the difference is (if any)? It looks like the lead from the battery is just a ground. Do you even need a special jack for this? Or can I just solder the black lead from the battery to the jacks sleeve lug? Sorry for the rambling questions. I guess I just need some specifics on the components so I can decide weather I need the full kit or just the preamp assembly... Thanks for any input anyone might have!
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Post by ashcatlt on Feb 24, 2011 22:00:17 GMT -5
Welcome! I wouldn't bother with the kit. Is $5 worth the parts that you don't need for this project? I don't know, probably, but I'd imagine you've already got a spare 5-way laying around. 250K should work fine for the volume pot. 500K would make the output a touch brighter overall. You don't need a switched jack. You could just connect battery - to the sleeve of a normal jack, but then it won't turn off when you unplug the guitar. You'd have to remember to pull the switch every time. A stereo jack is usually used for this. They come in the more familiar (and smaller) open frame configuration. In fact, GuitarFetish sells them for less than half what you're saving on the kit.
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~Maxx
Meter Reader 1st Class
Posts: 67
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Post by ~Maxx on Feb 24, 2011 22:38:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the quick reply ashcatlt. I realized after I posted that the jack featured in both assemblies is actually a stereo jack. Didn't catch that before. Regardless of which one I order it will come with the jack though. One unfortunate part of using the switched jack though is that the shaft and bolt on my current jack are black to match the jack plate. Maybe I can find a black stereo jack. In any case - my intent is to reverse the function of the push/pull pot (from what the website lists), so that the circuit will be off when the knob is pushed down. That should make the switched jack next to moot.
Now that I've studied the pics on the site a bit more I have a better understanding of how these things work. The stereo jack makes perfect sense. But I realize too that if I want a standard master tone and volume for use when the guitar is in "passive" mode, I'll have to have three knobs rather than just the two I was planning on. Not the end of the world I guess. Or I could go with a tone/vol. blend pot. Hmm... Too many options. Anyway... Thanks so much for the info!
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Post by newey on Feb 24, 2011 22:52:57 GMT -5
un2maxx- Hello and Welcome! Ash has already addressed your questions. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by: If you mean using a concentric pot for V and T, that would solve the problem, although the knobs wouldn't match the preamp knob. Or, as you say, 3 knobs- it is the Strattish thing to do!
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~Maxx
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Posts: 67
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Post by ~Maxx on Feb 24, 2011 23:16:52 GMT -5
un2maxx- Hello and Welcome! Ash has already addressed your questions. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by: If you mean using a concentric pot for V and T, that would solve the problem, although the knobs wouldn't match the preamp knob. Or, as you say, 3 knobs- it is the Strattish thing to do! Yep... Concentric is what I had in mind. I used to have this same guitar wired with four (concentric) blend pots, so I could have a volume and tone for each pickup (splitable humbucker on the bridge). My goal was to simplify, but I think I'm slowly approaching the edge of over-complicating things again . Oh well...
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~Maxx
Meter Reader 1st Class
Posts: 67
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Post by ~Maxx on Feb 25, 2011 9:42:08 GMT -5
Heh... I realized last night that I have no choice but to use a 3 knob setup. Since there's no such thing as a DPDT push/pull dual concentric pot (imagine what that would look like!). I don't want any more toggles, and I need one pot to bypass/activate the preamp. Think I'll go with two push/pull pots and add in a dual tone cap. switch. Because God forbid we have a "normal" knob on our guitar!
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