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Post by newey on Apr 11, 2012 17:33:53 GMT -5
As I said, let's await independent confirmation before you start in anyway.
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spicynuts
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Post by spicynuts on Apr 14, 2012 17:07:09 GMT -5
Hey, Newey...so I've been studying this cuz I'm not going to have another weekend to do the wiring for a long time. I've got nearly everything soldered except the pups. I'm confused about your wire coloring. The lipsticks have three wires- red, white and bare wire. White and bare wire are ground, red is hot. In your diagram, which color is hot? Black? What is the grey and they yellow?
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Post by newey on Apr 14, 2012 19:08:38 GMT -5
Well, I didn't know what colors you had.
I used different colors for the different pickups for clarity on the diagram. The orange, red and yellow are the "hot" wires for the neck, middle and bridge pups, respectively- although the "orange" comes out sort of beige after saving the diagram as a bitmap. These, then, correspond to the red wires on your pickups.
Black is ground on my diagram, corresponding to your white.
The grey wires on my diagram represent the bridge ground as well as the ground wires connecting the pot shells. Depending on whether you are shielding the pickguard and cavity, you may not need to ground the pot shells but it's usually a good idea to do so.
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spicynuts
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Post by spicynuts on Apr 14, 2012 19:38:21 GMT -5
Awesome! Thanks, Newey. Control cavity, pickguard, pickup cavities are all copper tape shielded.
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Post by newey on Apr 14, 2012 21:12:26 GMT -5
To sort of finish the thought, also note that I have depicted a "star ground" point as a screw into the side of the cavity. This then also makes contact with the shielding. If your pots are then also touching the shielding on the underside of the pickguard, no real need to connect the pot shells to ground.
But D2o once solved a problem by grounding the pot shells even though the guitar was shielded, so sometimes odd things happen.
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spicynuts
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Post by spicynuts on Apr 15, 2012 18:33:30 GMT -5
Well, yeah they are, but I grounded em anyway. Essentially I used a blob of solder on the underside of the pickguard and grounded all wires to the blob.
So, it's wired up and working! However, I'm not 100% sure I've got the spec'd pup combinations. Is there any good way to be sure that I've got each position operating as it should? I feel like I'm not getting the bridge pup solo or the neck pup solo. What were the actual options again?
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Post by newey on Apr 16, 2012 5:49:46 GMT -5
The "truth table" for the OOP diagram (the one you used) is at post #12 above.
To test for the combinations, first thing to do is to make sure all the correct coils are operational in the various positions. You can use a screwdriver (or similar metallic object) to tap each coil for each switch position.
Plug the guitar in, turn the amp down real low, and tap each coil. You should hear a loud "thunk" for the ones which are active in a given position.
This won't tell you if two coils are OOP at position 6, but your ears will tell you if they're OOP there.
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spicynuts
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Post by spicynuts on Apr 16, 2012 8:45:54 GMT -5
Ah, ok post 12! Thanks.
I went past the screwdriver test..I strung the low A (strung the low E but it snapped!).
It seems like the bridge and middle are always on together but I'm not 100% sure. What I may do is unscrew the mid pup from the pickguard and pull it off to the side and screwdriver tap it from there.
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