phatmarx78
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Post by phatmarx78 on Mar 31, 2012 11:09:56 GMT -5
The bridge pickup works. Thats what I do not understand.
But anyway, if we were to use neweys diagram of up and down the position that would NOT work would be UP. In the down position, I get sound.
Do you think moving the pickup wires to the upper left and right lugs of the neck switch would work? This would leave the two center lugs of the neck switch unconnected to a wires/wires.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 31, 2012 11:50:06 GMT -5
The bridge pickup works. Thats what I do not understand. But anyway, if we were to use neweys diagram of up and down the position that would NOT work would be UP. In the down position, I get sound. Do you think moving the pickup wires to the upper left and right lugs of the neck switch would work? This would leave the two center lugs of the neck switch unconnected to a wires/wires. At this point, I'm totally confused. In my last post I referred to the upper switch as the neck, but I edited that to indicate that it's the bridge switch. Is this correct? I think we need to be sure that we're talking about the same thing. Is your wiring different than what the drawing shows? If so, how is it different? Moving the wires from the center lugs to the end lugs where the the guitar wiring is connected and leaving the center lugs with nothing connected, is a bad plan.
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phatmarx78
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I sling Fenders topped with Marshalls and Boss'
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Post by phatmarx78 on Mar 31, 2012 12:21:38 GMT -5
Bridge pup=Working all positions
Neck pup= Works in the "down" position, and not the "up".
We need to follow neweys diagram with my drawing in it to understand this.
Also, as an added confusion bonus, the second drawing I made with just the switches is not how I have it in my guitar. Please refer to the first full drawing of the pickguard to understand this.
The wiring that is in the guitar right now, is the wiring I used in the first drawing I have submitted. Nothing different than what I have in the drawing.
The only thing that is different is the ground that newey suggested should be on the input jack, connected to the volume pot. But that makes no significant difference that would be a causing factor, I'm sure.
Why would rearranging the pup wires (+,-) to the upper left and right lugs on the neck switch not be a good idea? Are you saying I won't have any sound after I do this due to interference? Im sure I have seen this technique used on switches before, but I'm sure their must be something you must see, that I cannot.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 31, 2012 13:46:20 GMT -5
Bridge pup=Working all positions Neck pup= Works in the "down" position, and not the "up". This is good information. Now all I need to do is compare this to the actual wiring. We need to follow neweys diagram with my drawing in it to understand this. Is this exactly how your guitar is wired? Also, as an added confusion bonus, the second drawing I made with just the switches is not how I have it in my guitar. Please refer to the first full drawing of the pickguard to understand this. In the first post? Is THIS exactly how your guitar is wired? Why would rearranging the pup wires (+,-) to the upper left and right lugs on the neck switch not be a good idea? If the neck switch is the one that has the out of phase "X", moving the pickup wires to that location would have that pickup always "on", regardless of the position of the switch. Or if one of the wires of the neck pickup is grounded somewhere else, you might have no sound all the time. Im sure I have seen this technique used on switches before, but I'm sure their must be something you must see, that I cannot. I'm sure you've seen something similar to this, where the pickup wires are connected to the "X' and the hot and ground of the guitar are connected to the poles (center lugs).
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phatmarx78
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Post by phatmarx78 on Mar 31, 2012 13:56:35 GMT -5
The first post, my first drawing, is how my guitar is wired currently.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 31, 2012 14:30:13 GMT -5
The first post, my first drawing, is how my guitar is wired currently. Like this, right? And in relation to this image, which way is the toggle pushed when the neck pickup works? Upper left or lower right?
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phatmarx78
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Post by phatmarx78 on Mar 31, 2012 14:35:27 GMT -5
Right, like this drawing.
I suppose, from that point of view, it would be the left.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 31, 2012 14:44:31 GMT -5
I suppose, from that point of view, it would be the left. In that case, the poles are connecting to the throws toward the lower right when it works. Either: The white wire of the neck pickup has a connection to hot that shouldn't be there. Or: The black wire of the neck pickup has a connection to ground that shouldn't be there. Either of these faults would explain why the neck pickup only works in one position but kills the signal in other position.
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phatmarx78
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I sling Fenders topped with Marshalls and Boss'
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Post by phatmarx78 on Mar 31, 2012 15:06:06 GMT -5
So what would be my solution??
Where could I possibly rearrange the wires so that they would be wired correctly? Their are no solder bridges, so what would I do?
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 31, 2012 17:24:08 GMT -5
Where could I possibly rearrange the wires so that they would be wired correctly? It's might not be a matter of rearranging wires. At least not from the standpoint of where they're connected to the switch. The bare parts of the wires might be contacting ground if your guitar is shielded. Or there might be a connection from the black of your pickup to ground at the baseplate of the pickup. So what would be my solution?? Step 1: Buy a meter. They're cheap. www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.htmlStep 2: Verify that there is a connection from one of the neck pickup wires to ground (or hot). If the pickguard is off the guitar, set the neck switch to the middle position and measure resistance from each of the center lugs of the switch to ground. If you measure any resistance at all, there is a problem. If you get the same reading as you do when the probes are not connected to anything, there is no problem. At least not when the pickguard is off the guitar. Get this far, and we'll know which path to take forward.
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phatmarx78
Apprentice Shielder
I sling Fenders topped with Marshalls and Boss'
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Post by phatmarx78 on Mar 31, 2012 18:08:21 GMT -5
Ok, that price is nice compared to local retailers!! I am going to find one on ebay like this, or just anyone who would take paypal, then once I have it, I will be posting again.
Thanks again for all the help you guys, I will get back to this situation asap.
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phatmarx78
Apprentice Shielder
I sling Fenders topped with Marshalls and Boss'
Posts: 49
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Post by phatmarx78 on Apr 4, 2012 23:34:31 GMT -5
Still no muti meter boys.. My tech says to take his to try this out... But right now I just want to play it... I know I will give this a go again, but Im not sure when. Im basically using that "on" position as a sort of killswitch.
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Post by merseymale on Apr 27, 2012 8:34:01 GMT -5
this is my 1st post EVER!
I am trying to get a schematic for...
2 HB with VOL & Variable Coil-Tap(instead of TONE pots) for each .
I want a push/pull on 1 'TONE' pot for master series/parallel when 3 way toggle is in center position.
Problem is I need a kinda 'D.I. switch' for the Bridge 'bucker...
By 'D.I. switch' I mean when you pull up the 'tone' knob everything's bypassed & the bridge pickup goes straight to the Jack with no loading.
I'd be great if the D.I. was always un-tapped HB too but IF the tap just HAS to be included if the 'tone' knob's set that way then so be it I suppose.
The frustrating thing about all this is that I honestly can do all these features seperatly but am having difficulty putting 'em all together on the 1 axe! HELP!
Both HBs have 4 core cable
THANKS IN ADVANCE, YOU GUYS!
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Post by reTrEaD on Apr 27, 2012 9:20:13 GMT -5
this is my 1st post EVER! I am trying to get a schematic for... 2 HB with VOL & Variable Coil-Tap(instead of TONE pots) for each . I want a push/pull on 1 'TONE' pot for master series/parallel when 3 way toggle is in center position. Problem is I need a kinda 'D.I. switch' for the Bridge 'bucker... By 'D.I. switch' I mean when you pull up the 'tone' knob everything's bypassed & the bridge pickup goes straight to the Jack with no loading. I'd be great if the D.I. was always un-tapped HB too but IF the tap just HAS to be included if the 'tone' knob's set that way then so be it I suppose. The frustrating thing about all this is that I honestly can do all these features seperatly but am having difficulty putting 'em all together on the 1 axe! HELP! Both HBs have 4 core cable THANKS IN ADVANCE, YOU GUYS! No, your first post ever was a few minutes ago, in your own thread: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=wiring&thread=6316&page=1Please do NOT clutter other threads by multiple postings of the same request like this.
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