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Post by sumgai on Sept 13, 2012 21:47:52 GMT -5
I guess this makes some sense. I assume browsers do not apply font-weight:bold if the font size is too small. That would require a helluva lot of intelligence on the part of the browser.... For instance, the first thing it would have to know is both the current screen resolution and the window size, but those are easy. Then there's the user adjustable (in the OS) aspect of Window Font Size, that often over-rides the browser's settings, or at least complicates it. Next it would have to know how the OS might be implementing such technologies as Clear Type, Retina and other tech's of a similar nature, not to mention any user adjustments there..... And to top all that off, I don't personally know of any browser that queries the OS for what the installed video driver is capable of doing - do you? (I'm open to new knowledge here.....) In short, it shouldn't be the browser that's monkeying with reTrEaD's visual reproduction of what's on the Boards..... my setup handles bold at size=1 and inside of a quote just fine: We return you now to your regularly scheduled topic, already interrupted! sumgai
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Post by newey on Sept 13, 2012 21:50:33 GMT -5
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Xochitl
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Post by Xochitl on Sept 14, 2012 18:43:24 GMT -5
col
I'd like all positions to be noise cancelling and I believe my 4th position is as it's connecting a north coil with a south one. Am I wrong?
reTrEaD
Thanks for your comments. They address some issues I was thinking about (but as I wanted to have first a global proper schematic I didn't ask further to avoid confusions - hey I may even like to try a blowswitch at some point) and others that I'm not skilled enough to rise (in other words I'd follow the advice of more competent people). Therefore I just sticked to the G&L diagram but actually i may change a few things.
Treble bleed: I understood there are three popular versions (just a cap, cap and resistor in parallel , cap and resistor in series). I was planning to go for the parallel as you suggested but the jury is still out.
Bass cut: I find it difficult to have proper, reasonably priced and good material and 1 Meg C more specifically so I've been looking for alternatives until I found a 1Meg C Alpha pot at Small Bear (no CTS as I first wanted but I guess that, as I may burn it anyway, it would do the trick, and I'd be back to more snobbery later. The kind of thing that kept me thinking were for example: - Joe Gore (Guitar Player, Tonefiend...) favored three 500 K pots to wire a 2H guitar. - I read once that you could mimick a 1 meg C taper with some cap and a regular 1 Meg linear.
Bridge coil suggestion: It's neat! I should try it if all the soldering doesn't screw my sanity patience.
Well, I guess I'll have to change my electronics order now.
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col
format tables
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Post by col on Sept 15, 2012 3:43:41 GMT -5
colI'd like all positions to be noise cancelling and I believe my 4th position is as it's connecting a north coil with a south one. Am I wrong? I don't know. I'm a Noob to all this. I assumed that the outside neck coil to be the coil nearest the neck; and the outside bridge coil to be the one nearest the bridge. So, if the pickups are identical (in polarity and wiring), I would expect the outside bridge pickup (the one nearest the bridge) to be the matching coil for noise canceling purposes. But, it I could be misunderstanding how your pickups are arranged/wired, or I could have misunderstood the nomenclature used here to describe inside and outside coils. I'm sure someone else will come along to clarify this. I have a feeling I've misunderstood something.
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Xochitl
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Post by Xochitl on Sept 15, 2012 6:47:04 GMT -5
col If you prefer, I'm connecting the neck slug coil with the bridge screw coil. I believe it's hum cancelling. If not, I'd be willing to change it.
reTrEaD I read again your diagram and it seems to me that the way you connect bridge green wire is what I was actually trying to achieve on my first diagram. Plus, I came to assume that you don't need to connect the bridge green wire to the 4th position of the A pole. I would only need to connect it to the 0, 5, 4 et 3 positions of the B pole. Would this be right? (diagram to come)
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Xochitl
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Post by Xochitl on Sept 15, 2012 7:50:34 GMT -5
I made a diagram but I won't show it for the moment as I'm finally not sure, reTrEaD, that your version is taking out the bridge coil as suggested. Doesn't it stay connected instead in positions 5, 4 and 3?
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col
format tables
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Post by col on Sept 16, 2012 1:39:16 GMT -5
colIf you prefer, I'm connecting the neck slug coil with the bridge screw coil. I believe it's hum cancelling. If not, I'd be willing to change it. Ah.Yes, that would seem correct. It makes sense. I understand now.
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Post by reTrEaD on Sept 17, 2012 12:10:14 GMT -5
I made a diagram but I won't show it for the moment as I'm finally not sure, reTrEaD, that your version is taking out the bridge coil as suggested. Doesn't it stay connected instead in positions 5, 4 and 3? The Bridge slug coil is used for positions 3, 4, and 5. In positions 3 and 5, we need the full HB (both coils). So the screw coil (green) is linked to the slug coil (red) in those positions, by the upper left section of the superswitch. The upper right section selects the white (screw coil +) to make use of both coils in series. In position 4, we don't need the screw coil at all. So the upper left section of the superswitch doesn't connect the green. The upper right section selects the red (slug coil +) only.
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Xochitl
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Post by Xochitl on Sept 29, 2012 21:16:53 GMT -5
Well, well... At last, I worked this afternoon on the wiring. Even if in the end it was a some kind of oriental bread,... er... I mean PITA, I had some kind of fun. It was my first time with a project of this kind and I knew it was too ambitious for me. I wired everything but the least I can say is the result is quite shaky. I used the las diagram suggested by reTrEaD and, it seems to have worked as I tap tested the coils before screwing the pickguard back. But the connections aren't sturdy enough and there seem to be some short-circuits and the pots (at least the volume) may be wired backwards. I don't know if the PTB is working; the treble pot is definitely acting on the right frequencies (noticeable even tap testing), though. I'll give it another try next week-end.
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