prolife
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Post by prolife on Feb 26, 2009 18:33:40 GMT -5
if i have to improvise with a 5 way switch, how do i wire it? i would just want neck, neck/ bridge and bridge. unless there are some no hassle extras with the 4 conductor wiring on both these pups and this switch. i just want 1,3 and 5 as normal. it's a 5 way import by the way, i vol and 1 tone. thanks.
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Post by newey on Feb 26, 2009 20:01:35 GMT -5
pl- Lots of possibilities there, with 4-wire HBs. I wouldn't be so quick to give up those extra switch positions! For example, you can treat one of the 2 HBs (N or B, your choice) as, in effect, 2 single coils, using all 4 wires to split the coils. The other HB would have its 2 coils wired together in series (std HB arrangement) and would not be split. Then wire it according to any import-switch regular Strat wiring diagram, it's just like a HSS Strat with the 2 SCs really close together. Assuming you split the neck pup, it would give you: 5-N top coil 4-N HB, coils in parallel 3-N bottom coil 4-N bottom coil+Br HB 5-Br HB Ah, but you say you want both pups on full HB at the "3" position? No problem, one of the classic Strat mods jumpers the 3 pups together at position 3, to give "all three" in the middle. Diagrams for that mod abound, and there's one around here somewhere that I'll find and dust off for you. Of course, this gives you the N HB in parallel, not series. I personally like that sound; you may not. Whether this arrangement could be done so the N HB coils connect in series at position "4", that I don't know. Leaving one of the HBs unsplit, and treating it as a single coil, you could also try this arrangement: HB and SC with 5-way switchAgain, using the N as the one to be split, this scheme would give you: 1. Neck series HB 2. Neck bottom coil, top coil and bridge coil shorted 3. Neck series HB with bridge HB in parallel with neck top coil 4. Neck top coil in parallel with bridge, neck bottom coil shorted 5. Bridge HB The diagram is drawn for a regular, non-import Strat switch, but it could be easily transposed to the import switch. I have an ulterior motive- I'm wanting someone to try that mod and tell me if they like it, as I plan on using it in the future.
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Feb 26, 2009 20:14:18 GMT -5
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Post by newey on Feb 26, 2009 21:50:44 GMT -5
On the thread you linked to, the last question asked whether the diagrams were using a regular 5-way switch. No one responded, and that's since April 2007.
I suspect that those are not standard 5-way switches. It's an Ibanez site, and those are Ibanez diagrams, and Ibanez often uses a different type of 5-way switch. One of the diagrams refers to an "SG" switch being used; my S-type Ibanez uses a distinct type of 5-way switch.
If you have a regular import-style Strat switch, it does look similar to the Ibanez ones, but internally it's different. Go to our reference pages and look for ChrisK's post on "Overseas Lever Switches" and compare yours to what you see there. If you're still unsure what you've got, check the switch with a multimeter to see "what connects to what" in the various positions.
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Feb 26, 2009 22:46:22 GMT -5
the only thing that comes up with those terms or a mix of them, in the search box, this thread. so i'm not sure where to look... i think i like that switching combo though. it's definitely a 5 way switch, but yeah i guess who knows how it's wired. then again i may try one of the pickups tommorow and see what i get!
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Post by ashcatlt on Feb 26, 2009 22:51:33 GMT -5
Yeah, the switching in that link can't be done with a standard 5-way. Here's the link for the Off-Shore Lever Switches, in case folks are feeling lazy. When I read your first post, I was thinking "This is exactly standard Tele switching." You'd end up with N+B in 2, 3, and 4, but...
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Feb 27, 2009 9:22:31 GMT -5
ahhh yes that diagram helps. i guess i can see whats out there and have a go. i do like the jem switching, but i have no idea which switch to get... it's from an ibanez RGA121. ebay don't carry these spares and anyway i'm too cheap to pay the earth for one! ;D
oh hey guys which coils usually get used when split using a push pull? inner or outer?
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Post by newey on Feb 27, 2009 10:24:03 GMT -5
That depends on several things. First, if the coil to be split is going to be combined with another coil, one can chose the coil that is RWRP with the coil it will be combined with, so as to be hum-canceling.
If the HB has one coil with adjustable poles and the other with slugs, the adjustable coil is usually chosen so as to maintain adjustability.
And sometimes the choice is made by the position of the coil to be split, e.g. closer to the bridge.
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Post by cynical1 on Feb 27, 2009 10:25:56 GMT -5
Yeah, the guy on eBay with the 5-way switches must have 3 kids in college... I found this link for switches: www.ibanezrules.com/parts.htm#MiscThe switches are listed towards to bottom of the age. There are 5 different model numbers listed and prices run from $12.00 - $30.00 each. I don't know what switch the drawing in question uses, but a quick e-mail to the the owner of this site should get you a quick answer. Happy Trails Cynical One
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Feb 27, 2009 17:44:59 GMT -5
oh well, i've been trying to find a more interesting combo than just plain b, b-n, n but i can't find one. so i'll add a push pull on it. so how do i wire a 5 way import as a 3 way import? do i just follow the 3 way diagram? they are said to be the same? ahhh! then again: www.torresguitars.com/guitartricks/twocoilcuts.htmli suppose that is a normal 5 way? i wonder what the cap on the vol is and what it's for?
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Post by newey on Feb 27, 2009 19:16:15 GMT -5
Yes, a regular 5-way. The cap, also including a resistor if you look closely, is billed as "The Torres Engineering Volume Circuit". It is apparently a treble bleed circuit.
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Post by ChrisK on Feb 28, 2009 0:35:15 GMT -5
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Feb 28, 2009 10:22:03 GMT -5
yes i've seen that duncan diagram. i like what it does, but i would have a hard time getting used to the neck in the middle... perhaps i'll try it though.
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Post by ChrisK on Feb 28, 2009 22:29:37 GMT -5
Ok, I thunk aboot it fer a minute or two. I can see how to get the following; 1. Bridge coils in series 2. Bridge coils in series, in parallel with Neck lower coil 3. Neck coils in series, in parallel with Bridge coils in series 4. Neck coils in series, in parallel with Bridge lower coil 5. Neck coils in series The "lower coil" is the one on each humbucker with the grounded wire. When these are selected, the "upper coil" on each is shorted. I modified a Duncan diagram in red. I do have to warn you though, it's very complicated.
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Mar 1, 2009 10:00:19 GMT -5
that looks good! but what would happen if you added extra wires from the red and white that go to the switch and soldered them to a push pull also? would anything work?
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Post by ChrisK on Mar 1, 2009 12:12:39 GMT -5
Ok, one doesn't ever get off easy after asking that kind of unloaded question. Here it comes...... "....added extra wires from the red and white that go to the switch and soldered them to a push pull doing what? What would you want the switch to do (we need more input)? Yes, they are the same electrical switch PCB with two additional mechanical positions. The Fender 3-way (make before break shorting switch) and 5-way switches share the same electrical switch wafer with two additional mechanical positions. These positions used to be added by filing notches in the switch mechanism. They were called, uh, well, um, the "notch" positions (#2 & #4).
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Mar 1, 2009 17:55:33 GMT -5
ahhh! did i read it wrong? 1. great stuff! 2. bridge hum+neck lower coil. does this means both split? or full bridge+neck split? still great stuff but if not can i use the push pull to split them? 3.great! 4. same here as 2. a neck full on and bridge split. or both split? 5. great stuff. hope you get what i mean.
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Post by newey on Mar 1, 2009 20:34:36 GMT -5
#2 is the full Bridge Humbucker with the neck split, #4 is the Neck full HB with the bridge split. #1,3 & 5 are the 3 you wished for, with the 2 HBs at #3.
You could interpose a push/pull to split one or the other of the HBs before the 5-way switch. This would give you 2 SCs in the #2 position, if you wired the bridge HB to the push/pull, and some other possibilities depending on which coil was split off.
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Post by ChrisK on Mar 2, 2009 0:24:46 GMT -5
Yep, newey's got it.
Now, with one pole on the DPDT push pull switch for each pickup, there are some things that we can do to both for a symmetrical structure.
Before I get to any form of a GeDankengang on this, I have a few questions.
First and foremost; do you have easy access to the wiring of the guitar after it's tuned up? In other words, what make and model is it?
If you have easy access (which infers rear route and a screw-fastened rear cover), it's easy to try different things without a lot of restringing/retuning.
This is the way to begin this journey as you might find that you like the push pull to do one thing for the neck pickup and something different for the bridge pickup.
Empirical is.
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prolife
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Post by prolife on Mar 10, 2009 10:45:38 GMT -5
it was for the strat style guitar, which can be a pain. i will have another look at things and a rethink before getting back to it...
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Post by ChrisK on Mar 11, 2009 18:35:23 GMT -5
Well, ya know, it isn't all that hard to get a cheap Strat pickguard and cut off the control area. Mount the pickups and the larger part of the guard to the guitar and use the cut-off control part as an easily removable control cover. You don't even have to detune to change wiring. On an automobile we call this the hood (bonnet).
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