|
Post by genmce on Aug 27, 2015 14:08:04 GMT -5
Hey all, I have been looking at this and wanting to wire some on on on switches for an hhh guitar. My switches came from China via ebay and they do not match the standard layouts I have seen. It looks like this when the switch is in the middle. I want a way to have the up position be coil cut, the middle be parallel and down be series. This layout makes more logical sense to me. Is this possible? Thanks
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Aug 27, 2015 15:16:28 GMT -5
Hey all, I have been looking at this and wanting to wire some on on on switches for an hhh guitar. My switches came from China via ebay and they do not match the standard layouts I have seen. It looks like this when the switch is in the middle. I want a way to have the up position be coil cut, the middle be parallel and down be series. This layout makes more logical sense to me. Is this possible? Thanks
That does seem to be a mirror image of what we usually expect from these on/on/on toggles. Thanks for pointing it out!
But either way, wiring these up to do series, single, parallel, the single always has to be in the middle. the wiring is the same as for a two position series to parallel switch, and the middle position is an in-between setting that shunts one coil for single. To get single in the middle would require a more cpmplex and as yet un known toggle, or a rotary switch with three positions (a 3-way Tele switch could do it)
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Aug 27, 2015 15:58:16 GMT -5
I haven't done the math but I reckon a 4PDT on-on-on might be able to have the necessary functions with locations desired by this gent.
|
|
|
Post by newey on Aug 27, 2015 22:19:29 GMT -5
I took that as a bit of a challenge. This, however, has the series in the middle. I suspect that can probably be switched around to the exact desired sequence. And, there may well be a more elegant way of doing this, I kept looking at doing it with only 3 poles but couldn't make that work.
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Aug 28, 2015 11:52:10 GMT -5
Yep, that seems to work. Apparently it's a little easier to put the Parallel in the middle position of the switch. Of course the easiest would be to use a DPDT on-on-on and put the north only in the middle position of the switch. But where's the Nutz in that?
|
|
|
Post by cynical1 on Aug 28, 2015 12:20:05 GMT -5
Of course the easiest would be to use a DPDT on-on-on and put the north only in the middle position of the switch. But where's the Nutz in that? I've used this one a couple times, using the DPDT ON-ON-ON switch you mentioned, and it works like a charm: HTC1
|
|
|
Post by genmce on Aug 28, 2015 20:29:20 GMT -5
Yep, that seems to work. Apparently it's a little easier to put the Parallel in the middle position of the switch. Of course the easiest would be to use a DPDT on-on-on and put the north only in the middle position of the switch. But where's the Nutz in that? So it can be done with 3pdt on on on. Cool! The 4pdt on on on looks expensive. Yeah ok so it doesn't seem very practical, I just like the idea of up single/ para/ series, like that is how it should be.
|
|
|
Post by newey on Aug 28, 2015 21:04:20 GMT -5
I don't think any 3P On-On-On toggle switches can be found, at least not in a size you could use in a guitar. So I think you're stuck with a 4P, if you just can't abide the SC in the middle switch position .
Sent from my SM-G900V using proboards
|
|
|
Post by genmce on Aug 29, 2015 18:48:01 GMT -5
I don't think any 3P On-On-On toggle switches can be found, at least not in a size you could use in a guitar. So I think you're stuck with a 4P, if you just can't abide the SC in the middle switch position . Sent from my SM-G900V using proboards Peer pressure - I acknowledge that my request, while interesting to me, is rich with impracticality. Thanks to all for this brief indulgence. Back to your regularly scheduled thread.
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Aug 29, 2015 20:07:37 GMT -5
It's good to figure out ideas, you never know when you might stumble across a good one.
Just on options, if you like the idea of something similar to the SPhss, but with hhh and pickup switching options:
1. If you go with the on/on/on switches (2 pole, or 4 pole if crazy), you would have to commit to one of the two coils being the single coil option, which could be different for each pickup.
2. Another version says that you don't do local parallel, just series and single, and then all the coil cutting could be done with one 3 pole toggle - but all at once
3. You could have one pickup that knows which coil to cut to for humcancelling but with no parallel option, as with the bridge humbucker on the SPhss, and the other two have to cut to a set coil and can have a parallel option if you want
If it was mine, Id do the following:
Use the SP hss diagram, exactly as you now have built, we know that works for you. Delete the phase switch if you don't want it, and adjust for wire colours/polarities of new pickups.
Use 3 simple dpdt sub-miniature toggle switches. These are my favourite little switch, just a bit smaller and neater than a normal mini-toggle, they mount in a 5.5mm hole instead of a 6mm hole. being two position, they are much less fiddly than three-position toggles.
One of these replaces the coil cut switch on the wiring, but is wired the same, to coil cut the bridge pickup
The other two cut each of the other humbuckers, directly after the pickups so what reaches the wiring diagram is just two wires, coil cutting has already happened. THeses latter tow switches could also be combined as just one switch.
By careful arrangement of all that, all single coil combos can be hum cancelling, except maybe NM out of phase if you have it.
Or, maybe just do all series/parellel for each pickup, no single coil sounds, three submin toggles and the SP diagram.
|
|
|
Post by genmce on Aug 30, 2015 11:25:45 GMT -5
|
|