I've got a guitar that previously had Jimmy page wiring as per a Seymour Duncan diagram which I successfully installed a few years ago. I have since decided that I'd prefer a master volume rather than the standard 2 volumes, so I found a diagram again from Seymour Duncan promising this. (See below)
The problem is, there seems to be a few errors. The bridge pickup section of the circuit doesn't seem to work. I've wired it all up and only the neck is coming through. I think I see part of the problem: the lead from the bridge pickup to 3 way switch is connected via the series switch. This means it is only connected when the series switch is in the down position!
Does anybody have any ideas how to correct this diagram? I'm not sure how. I've tried a few things, but no joy.
Alternatively are there any other diagrams about that offer Jimmy Page features with just 3 push-pulls? I couldn't find any!
That diagram does seem to be all kinds of messed up, which is very unusual for SD. I don't know of a pre-drawn JP diagram with master tone, but it is definitely possible.
I think a better way to do the S/P switch is that it completely overrides the main toggle. So in parallel mode, you use the toggle as usual, then pull the S/P and you get full series in all toggle settings.
Thanks for replying. That's a good point. I did that very mod to a friend's guitar a few years back. I think I see how I can modify this circuit to work in that way. That would in fact improve things so there are no dead positions. Time to experiment again!
In the unlikely instance someone else wants to solve this problem, I have come up with a solution. See diagram below. As suggested by JohnH it also uses a master series/parrallel that bypasses the toggle.
Last Edit: May 9, 2016 10:01:45 GMT -5 by bobwidget
Not sure if you've wired this up yet or not, but I see some issues with your diagram. First, the neck pup black wire goes to the tone control, then to the toggle switch, and from there the output to the volume control is switched by the toggle. So, you haven't bypassed the toggle; the S/P will only work when the toggle is set to the neck position. In a series "chain", you have 4 wires, two per pickup (ignoring the coil split wires). One of those 4 wires is permanently wired somewhere, making the fixed end of the chain. Usually, one of the grounds is the fixed end. But you've got both of the grounds switched, and the neck black as the fixed end- which won't work because it's not fixed but goes to the toggle switch.
Generally, one of the green wires would be permanently wired to ground to start the series chain and that pickup's black wire would be switched by the S/P switch. The S/P switch is then wired to the toggle in parallel mode, and to output in series mode.
(Note that black vs. green wire colors really don't matter since you have a phase switch to reverse things; I've just used the colors by way of illustration. But if you want the normal phase to be in the "down" position on the phase P/P pot, then we should pay attention to the colors.)
Second, as wired, when in series mode the bridge tone pot will control both pickups, and the neck tone will control the neck. Not sure that's what you wanted. Each pickup's tone pot should be the first thing after the its pickup, IOW go from the bridge pickup to the bridge tone, then to the phase switch, then to the series/parallel switch.
Also, you may want to consider that the coil split switch currently splits both HBs to the same single coil (as shown, the black/white coil will be operative). When both pickups are on, the resulting combination will not be hum-cancelling. This can easily be solved so as to select the opposite coil (green/red) for one pickup, giving hum-cancellation with both pickups split. To do so, rather than shunting both red/white pairs to ground, shunt one to ground and the other to the "hot" side. Lose the blue jumper between the two halves of the coil split switch, and wire the other half to the output instead of to ground.
I will need to take another look at this. Some other things came up and I never got round to wiring it. I hope to soon, so I'll re-work my diagram based on your comments in the mean-time. Thanks for the tips!