Removing and replacing GB10 Pots

[guitargazza]

Hello all, I have a lovely Ibanez GB10 (Japan manufactured) that I have had for some years and the pots are beginning to sound a bit scratchy.

It seems to me that removing them to clean them and then re-installing them is quite a tricky job.

Is there anyone on here that has done the removal, clean and re-install the pots that might be able to pass on some tips on how to do this and avoid disaster?

Many thanks in advance for any help.

guitar_gazza

Sydney, Australia

[newey]

guitargazza:

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

Jan 19, 2023 0:42:57 GMT -5 guitargazza said:

It seems to me that removing them to clean them and then re-installing them is quite a tricky job.

(for the benefit of others, the GB 10 model is the George Benson signature model, so it's a big hollow-bodied jazz box)

Yes, it's tricky. I assume there is no rear-side access panel for the electronics?

I'm sure there are YouTube videos you can look at, but basically you're going to have to remove the entire wiring harness and the pickups, everything comes out through one of the pickup holes. Reinstalling it after repairs is the hard part, you run pieces of string from the outside, into the sound box, and out through the pickup holes. You do so for each of the components, pots, switch, output jack. Then each piece of string gets tied to its component, and you pull the components through and into place with the string, then secure them into place one by one. It's also adviseable, with 4 pots, to label which ones are which so you get them back into the proper holes.

Frankly, if you do decide to do this job, I'd recommend buying new pots and replacing the existing ones. First off, you won't know if your cleaning has done any good until after you've reinstalled everything and played it. Even if you manage to get the scratchiness out, they're old pots, you'll probably end up doing the job again in 5 years or so. Replace them and it should be good for life- your life, anyway. Pots are fairly cheap, much cheaper than your labor to do this, unless you count your time as worth 10¢ per hour . . .

And, finally, you may find that once you get a look at the old pots, they may be of the sealed type where you can't get access to spray any cleaner in there anyway.

In short, this is a huge P.I.T.A. I, too, have an old hollow body electric with scratchy pots. I elected to live with it, since I don't play that guitar much anyway.

You might also try rapidly turning the pots back and forth, this sometimes helps a bit. But if you really can't live with it as is, taking it to a professional luthier may save you a lot of grief and frustration.

[cynical1]

Jan 19, 2023 0:42:57 GMT -5 guitargazza said:

Hello all, I have a lovely Ibanez GB10 (Japan manufactured) that I have had for some years and the pots are beginning to sound a bit scratchy.

As newey said, this is a hollowbody electric. Very pretty.



I don't know about Australia, but in the States a clean Japanese model brings in around $2500.00 USD.  (Just North of $3600.00 in Australian Dollars)

These was also a blond version as I recall.

It seems to me that removing them to clean them and then re-installing them is quite a tricky job.

I see you possess a gift for understatement.

Is there anyone on here that has done the removal, clean and re-install the pots that might be able to pass on some tips on how to do this and avoid disaster?

Yes, a few of us here have done it. It's not impossible, but it does resemble building a ship in a bottle.  Essentially, everything has to come in and out the F-holes or the pickup routes as you have no access to the controls from the back.

There are videos all over YouTube on how to do this.  Here's two:




Here's a link to StewMacs walkthrough on Fishing a volume control out of a semi-hollowbody for soldering

One thing I found that works great is waxed cord.  It's just polyester cord with a wax coating...you can pull a car out a ditch with this stuff...but more importantly, it doesn't come untied from pots and switches inside of the guitar as strings can do...and the knots don't catch on things like rubber bands can.   Any craft or jewelry supply house will have it.  Don't use thread...and don't ask me why I know this... 

Aside from lost strings in the control cavity, scratches are another collateral annoyance.  3M BLUE low tack masking tape...accept no substitute.  Cover anything on the guitar where a tool or sharp edge may want to plow a furrow in your finish.  Double up around the F-holes

I would suggest replacing the pots versus cleaning.  It's the same misery getting them in and out...  Make sure the finish is protected if you do decide to clean them.  That stuff goes everywhere and certain finishes can react poorly if they come in contact with it.

A rubber mat or pad is a plus as it keeps the guitar from moving around while you work.

For reference, here's your wiring diagram...you may need this:


Click for link

Here's the part where I try and scare you off.  

If you had a Samick I'd encourage you to move forward with reckless abandon.  You, however, have a valuable instrument, which is only going to increase in value over time.   If you do this work you'll need to take your time and act with care.  Watch and read everything you can and make sure you have a clean and quiet workspace to do it.  If you are not comfortable doing this, there is no shame in seeking professional help.

Still sound like fun?

Happy Trails -

Cynical1

[sumgai]

gg,


Well, I'm gonna make it three Staffers who want to warn you off of this project. In my opinion, there are only two valid reasons for not taking this to a guitar tech (or better yet, a bona fide luthier):

a) You don't have the cash to pay for the job, in which case, how did you afford the axe in the first place? As cynical1 noted, this is decidedly not a cheap instrument.

b) You live more than 300 miles from a tech or luthier. This is a valid excuse, though I'd still counsel that you need to strike a balance between your personal time and labor to do the job, versus the cost of a professional job. Add to that latter the cost of gas and travel time. Add to the former the 'cost' of your headache potential, which increases logarithmically as your experience level nears the zero mark.

Have I/we scared you yet? Good, it just means that we're confirming your suspicions that you were right, there might be more to this job than you first thought. I also have one more condition for you:

c) If you need to get this done by the weekend for an upcoming gig, then we have one word for you: DON'T DO IT! There's a reason why we have the word 'procrastination' in our language - it means that you haven't damaged anything.... yet. It's the antonym for someone who's always in a hurry to do it now, but doesn't have the time to do it twice when the fan becomes inundated with smelly stuff. Instead, put this on the back burner and use another axe for the gig. It shouldn't need to be said, but I'll say it anyway: Cooler heads always prevail. "Heat of the moment" is an excuse best left for your lawyer to try as a defense.

HTH




sumgai

[newey]

If you do have a gig, rather than use another guitar, use this one and just don't turn the knobs. If you do have to adjust something mid-song, use your amp, a volume pedal, give your sound guy the high sign (assuming there is a sound guy)- IOW, you have other options, scrathy pots are an annoyance, not a crisis. Or, just turn the knob and deal with the scratchiness, if the bass and drums are rolling along probably no one will notice anyway.

[thetragichero]

i'll pop in to say that i replaced the entire wiring harness in my `65 guild freshman hollowbody (besides horrible pots the tone cap had dried out). it wasn't particularly fun but it was one of my first projects during covid so i didn't exactly have a timeframe to do it in

it is doable, you will use language that is not appropriate for a family-friendly forum such as this one. just wait until after the gig so you're not rushed. something as fiddly as this will be incredibly less fun if you're doing it in a rushed state. if this were a cheap import strat then sure have at it before the gig but this is a durn fine instrument that you'll be super bummed for a long time if you screw up

in my case i replaced the entire wiring harness with new pots, new cap, and a new jack because 1. it was easier and gave me a template to follow and 2. it's better for resale (although i have had this guitar since my father purchased it at a yard sale when i was all of 8 years old and it's the instrument i learned on so it is one of two instruments that holds way more sentimental value to me than its $$$ value)

[stevewf]

As for fishing the components through, I used nylon aquarium tubing instead of string. I got the stuff that just fits over the knobless pots and switch. I turns out that the mounting washers and nuts also fit nicely over the tubing. Fish a piece of tubing tubing in through the control's hole, and then out through the f-hole (or pickup hole). Use a piece that's comfortably long enough so both ends are sticking out and won't fall in, but short enough to avoid being cumbersome. Insert the control's shaft into the end of the tubing that's sticking out of the f-hole. Do that for each control being fished.

Caution; it can become spatially confusing when arranging the controls outside of the guitar for insertion - when inserting the tubing (or whatever fish tool you're using), you have to keep it from getting tangled or crossed over each other inside the guitar, or your wires will be likewise tangled once you pull the tubing back through.

Next, pull the tubing back out through the controls' holes, gently keeping all the controls moving along together via their tubes. Get them sticking out of their holes, but not firmly in place yet (lest the tubing get detached). Then, one control at a time: put a washer then a nut on the free end of the tubing and let them slide down near the other end; tug the control into place so that its threaded bushings emerge; place the washer, and finger-tighten the nut. Get all controls in place and then tighten the mounting hardware.

For the output jack, I made a hook from coathook wire. I made sure to coax the jack through the guitar in such a way as to prevent it from getting tangled. I've seen fish tools made out of plug parts for this, too, inserted into the jack.

Note: I did this on my $250 hollow body kit guitar; not on an expensive classic!

PS - though now I see that TheFretWire has discontinued the kit! The value will no doubt begin skyrocketing soon