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Post by frets on Oct 31, 2023 20:57:52 GMT -5
I recently had to buy some solder that is not my normal brand. Well the stuff sucks. So I wanted to share the absolute best inexpensive solder on the market, Whizzo Tech 60/40. A pound goes for $27.  Cant go wrong with this stuff. |
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Post by ssstonelover on Nov 3, 2023 2:08:04 GMT -5
Do you remember where you bought it?
eBay shows this out of stock, as does Amazon.
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Post by frets on Nov 3, 2023 14:11:35 GMT -5
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Post by unreg on Nov 3, 2023 17:02:25 GMT -5
Newey, I buy mine from the same guy on EBay. I looked on other sites and is is also temporarily unavailable. I hope this does not mean they’re out of business. It is the best stuff for a moderate price. What I like about it is it won’t run like other cheaper 60/40 solders. In other words, there is less probability of freezing a blade switch. The consistency is just a bit thicker. I did find a person on EBay that had one for $30. The vendor is cathysyntx. The price included shipping. Here is the link. www.ebay.com/itm/266213905589I bet that link I just edited works. Usually, you can remove the ‘?’ and everything following bc that is specific information to just your computer or phone or whatever.  My tiny opinion is that I prefer 62/36/2 solder bc it has 2% silver and kester’s site says: Personally, I extremely disliked the plasticness (it was way too thick for me) of my 60/40 solder. But only 36% lead makes my solder super easy to apply without having a big marble of dried solder when I’m through. Perhaps, I’m weird, but I don’t care. My guitar sounds just fine with its 62/36/2 solder. 👍 EDIT: My guitar doesn’t have a blade switch. |
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Post by ssstonelover on Nov 3, 2023 19:40:55 GMT -5
I did find a person on EBay that had one for $30. OK, I bought it, thanks |
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Post by blademaster2 on Nov 3, 2023 23:01:16 GMT -5
I recently had to buy some solder that is not my normal brand. Well the stuff sucks. So I wanted to share the absolute best inexpensive solder on the market, Whizzo Tech 60/40. A pound goes for $27. Cant go wrong with this stuff. What I have learned (from a NASA soldering inspector) indicates that the solder itself, even with rosin core, works better if you use good quality rosin in addition to what is in the core. He preferred mildly-activated rosin if you are in a position where thorough cleaning afterward is not practical (and yet he insisted on thorough rosin flux removal afterwards, regardless, but the mildly-activated rosin cleaned off easier). He also recommended cleaning the solder wire itself by wiping with alcohol on a lint-free wipe to remove oxides before using it. Both techniques gave me soldering results that were beautifully wetted and filleted, and acceptable for spaceflight applications (and my soldering is still in orbit right now and working). He did not say that switching to any particular different alloy was needed, but this is usually indicated by the type of metal and/or plating used for the contacts being soldered. For example, gold-plated contacts are not good for high reliability solder connections since it causes solder embrittlement, and usually needs several repeated cycles of solder being applied and removed so that the gold layer is at least partly removed before the soldering job is performed. Pure tin contacts are not permitted for aerospace applications, and neither is lead-free solder, due to tin whisker growth concerns (which I have seen myself) although it is mandatory for non-military and non-space. That changes the flux type and soldering temperature as well but I do not think the above photo shows a lead-free type. |
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