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Post by jdl on Apr 6, 2006 23:50:17 GMT -5
Hey guys;
I've been following runwalker's post on p90's, and i've decided to attempt to build something with 3. So far im thinking an SG, or maybe a double cutaway LP from warmoth. So, what do you guys think? Any experience's with this idea? Also, if anyone one has a body they can sell me for this project i'm more than willing to buy it from ya!
james
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 7, 2006 16:16:55 GMT -5
Hey guys; I've been following runwalker's post on p90's, and i've decided to attempt to build something with 3. So far im thinking an SG, or maybe a double cutaway LP from warmoth. So, what do you guys think? Any experience's with this idea? Also, if anyone one has a body they can sell me for this project i'm more than willing to buy it from ya! james Glad you share the interest. The main reason I selected the strat is that for a prototype build they are just so much easier. Not necessarily my preferred aesthetic for the P90s. A second reason is the mystery of the quack. I have come to suspect serendipitous geometry since the 'quack' is diminished in the N/B Para combo, and Leo never thought you needed combos. I want to test the P90 version of that geometry, knowing the dimensional differences will not make a precise match to the strat geometry. And supposedly the P90 vib window is less focused, so that also may affect duckiness. Curious minds want to know. The third reason is the P90 is raunchier than the strat pups, and sometimes ya just gotta. Finally, P90s in a strat are a little heretical, which of course makes it that much better. Someone will be offended The good news is several mfg make P-90s in reg and RWRP versions. Either of the Gibs are more authentic, and would be monsters. They off course will require routing the mid pup. Until the concept is thoroughly tested though I am sticking with the Strat ..... unless...... I find a convertible Jag, which in my mind is the perfect destination for this beast. Convertible Jag means that it is routed like a Strat, none of that Jag trem stuff, and is top routed with that massive pickguard. The Pickguard would then have to be a custom. Custom paint would be a decision as well. Here's one I let get away. Too disciplined? Nah, too many other projects. (link will eventually disappear) cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7401834982&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
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Post by jdl on Apr 7, 2006 17:04:51 GMT -5
How well would they fit in a strat? Would the distance between the pups be too small? and would this cause a lack of variety in different pickup combo's? I'm just thinking out loud here, so by all means tear my questions apart!!! james
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 7, 2006 21:52:56 GMT -5
How well would they fit in a strat? Would the distance between the pups be too small? and would this cause a lack of variety in different pickup combo's? I'm just thinking out loud here, so by all means tear my questions apart!!! james Here's a pix from Warmoth with a number of diff configs on a Strat pickguard: Its a little fuzzy as I blew it up 150% to make it bigger. www.warmoth.com/pickguards/pickguards.cfm?fuseaction=pickguards_stratThe link will show diff control hole options as well. The key thing is seeing these relative pup sizes. The P90 is not as wide as a standard humbucker, and about as long as the routs for the bracket ears on the Strat Singles and humbuckers. There may need to be minor Dremel adjustment, but not much. The ideal Strat bod (for some) would be a 'swimming pool' rout, but that gapeing hole bothers me. My preferred option is the Strat style bods that are HSH, Meaning some hogging out of the mid position is necessary. A little woodwork, yes, but not as much as a SSH or SSS. Most of the HSHs I have seen are long enough to accomdate the bracket ears, and dont have the small bracket routs that Les Pauls do, rather it is small bathtub rout for the whole pup, with deeper holes for the adjusting screws of the plate brackets. In this and the similar pup cut options at Terrapin the P-90s fit. So this has been tested. RW
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Post by jdl on Apr 7, 2006 23:01:19 GMT -5
you think you could reverse angle the bridge p90? could make for some interesting sounds......
James
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Post by sumgai on Apr 7, 2006 23:17:54 GMT -5
James, Before you tear into that reverse angle business, remember that harmonics plays a key role in pickup placement. I need to get on the stick and write that up, I've been putting it off for too long. (sigh) But keep it up, I like the way you're thinking. sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 7, 2006 23:25:36 GMT -5
Rune, In January of 2005 I sold a Vista Series Jagmaster on eBay for more than the price of a new one at the local GC! The main reason I got rid of it was the neck, it was an odd, very short scale (something like 23 1/4"). For an experimenter's ax, these things are ideal. But be aware, the body is made of basswood. I don't care what the bigwigs say in their hype literature, basswood just does not sound as good as alder or ash. The sustain is way down, I suspect because the wood's too light - no resonance. The parts were all good, just like a MIJ Strat, so that didn't enter the equation of why the sound was so much less than you'd expect from an ovesize body (it is the size of a Jaguar or Jazzmaster). Still, for making like Dr. Frankenstein, anything like this would be ideal. There's more of them on eBay, and on craigslist, so keep your eyes peeled. sumgai
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 8, 2006 0:41:57 GMT -5
you think you could reverse angle the bridge p90? could make for some interesting sounds...... James The reverse angle on a regular Strat pup would seem to make sense, as the standard articulation emphasizes even more treble frequencies. What, the Strat single coil bridge position doesn't shove enough ice-picks through your ears already. I plan on building one soon with the reverse angle (Hendrix). However, I could also argue just for it being parallel to the others. I think we have seen that angle so much it is inculcated in our visual expectations, so parallel pups look "weird." In the P-90 Strat I think parallel makes more sense. I also never got why Kramer and some others bothered with angling a humbucker. String to pole coverage would necessarily be compromised. Sumgai:Harmonics 3/4" from the bridge saddles? not much of a multiple to work with. Harmonic placement and the neck pup I can buy, since that is right around the 24th fret position, and the mid would be around the second octave G or A. I have read that some folks feel strongly that putting the pup under that 2nd octave position is muy no good -- some argument about competing and canceling oscillations. Some 24 fret guys argue that the 24 fret config pushes the neck pup out of the geometry of the harmonic distress points. Don't know about all of that. Not sure I can hear the differences, but I don't play often without grind and saturation, so the subtleties easily escape me, in guitars and life. That's why I play Electric guitar. RW
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Post by jdl on Apr 8, 2006 1:03:53 GMT -5
So, if i find enough money this will be my first full project (one of many more i hope!). From what you guys have said, the strat body would be the easiest to do it on right? Would this be a good beginner project? Or will i be way out of my league on this one? James
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Post by sumgai on Apr 8, 2006 4:21:53 GMT -5
James, Why limit yourself to a Strat body? When considering a bed for a trio of P-90's, it's not so much the style of the body as it is the amount of wood available between the bridge and the neck - pretty much the same on nearly all electric guitars (with necks of less than 24 frets). You might wanna check out other options, once in awhile you can score bigtime, leaving you with more moola for nicer pickups, hardware, or whatever. sumgai
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Post by jdl on Apr 8, 2006 11:04:23 GMT -5
Hmm;
I guess i'll keep searching ebay for something cool. I sorta want to try it on an SG body but i'm still not too sure.
Have you guys heard anything about those Rio Grande pickups they sell on warmoth.com? They sound pretty good on the company's website.
James
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 8, 2006 12:05:52 GMT -5
So, if i find enough money this will be my first full project (one of many more i hope!). From what you guys have said, the strat body would be the easiest to do it on right? Would this be a good beginner project? Or will i be way out of my league on this one? James because this is not a drop in project it is likely to require some comfort and facility with wood working skills. The reason I tried to clarify that the gibby conversions would be more daunting is that there will be significant routing in converting a 2 pup model, will little to no room for error. I thought that Agile made a LP clone with 3 P90s, but after looking I could not find one. So there are not a lot of chassis' out there pre-configured. In my opinion (so you know it is worth nothing) Strats with the HSH rout are the easiest to mule with different experiments in design. I have one that is a mule test bed I have wired and rewired so many time, the current switches will just not take another solder strip and re-solder. It is about to be redone (simply) and sold. So Strat Styles are my first nominee for a first project. Aftermarket, and clone bodies are cheap and plentiful so you minimize your risks against mistakes, and most of us make a few as we learn. Also the component nature of the bolt-ons make for a number of differnent options in final form. If this is your first project, and you are not moderately skilled in woodwork, then there will be challenges. If you have to rout that is a (relatively) precision machining moment and requires some esperience in moving a high-speed router within a timeplate using guide rollers and straight bits. OR an incredibly steady free hand (not recommended). That is part of the attraction of a Strat. If you must hog out a little wood then hand managing a Dremel will work. I have even seen it done with a cylindrical sanding drum on a drill bit. Or careful use of a SHARP chisel. As long as you don't go chainsaw lumberjack that pickguard can cover a lot of ugly. Same could be said of these Squire Jags, they are inevitably more expensive it would seem. You can easily get in under a $100 for a Strat Chassis, yet move into the $160 - $300 just for a Jag chassis, unless you get a Stagg, and I have not experience with that Asian brand. Most of our focus on this board is the wiring schemes. So the other part of your question, "Would this be a good beginner project?" is then dependent on your Selected wiring approach. My intent in this P-90 project is to build the JH TM-II. I have thoroughly tested that design, and had real musicians test it --- it is a universe beyond the standard 5-way. But I will not suggest it is easy. It requires a number of very small solder joints, complex routeing (Not routing) of wire paths, attention to detail, and magnifing reading glasses that taken out into the sun in on a Texas prairie would easily promote wildfires. If however you wanted to do a conventional 5-way strat wiring, or one step up (and it is a pretty credible step up) -- the wiring diagram of J.Atcheley's Strat Lover Strat that Mr. John H has graciously converted into a wiring diagram (see the Schematics under the Electroncs and Wiring Board) --- that would be appropriate for the beginner level. There may be other simple designs. A small word on that StratLover scheme. It gets almost all the true keeper sounds of the Strat 3 pup conversions. The one it does not get, that is important for folks that really have to have that fat neck humbucker sound, is the Seri N/M. It however gets close with a Seri N+M*B. A little gain adjustment and tone roll and you can emulate that setting pretty well. It also does not get all 3 pups, which are real low output in Para, and thick, almost wooly in Seri --- unless you have a blender, which this mod does not. Most people coming from Strats have no experience with those settings anyway, so they will not be missed. The TM-II is a different animal, because with the blender infintesimal mixes of the between tones are available in combos. So that the blender becomes an advanced tone control. Players I have built these for that put the time into really learning it's capabilities become addicted, using the blender as the first order of tone adjstment within a combo, and the master tone as a last resort.. So, if it is your first project, then think about your wood working skills, and whether you want that part of it easy or hard. That will lead you to a chassis. Then think about what wiring scheme you must have for your new baby. One last comment. When I first starting getting into this, having a history of 'excess is best' I had to do builds that did every concievable combo. Turns out after I got that out of my system, I was reminded I actually want to play the guitar. Having 96 options full of redundancies, dead spots and elaborate switching motions was just a pain in the @ss. When you are playing, you want to wail, not refer to a matrix grid to map your sound destination. That led to more thought about which of the combos are "keepers" then how do I configure them to get to them fast, naturally and with a minimum of distance motion and actuation motion. Those objectives were much harder that "I gotta have it all". They are the thought though behind JH's and my elaborate, thinking- out-loud TM-II thread (which he did all the heavy lifting on), and JH's interpretation of that discussion into a working and tested TM-II design ---- then this latest revisiting of the Zen-Simple-yet-Rich choices of the Strat Lover's design. If you don't have any experience with how the character of a strat changes when you suddenly have System series options, or finally grab that lost sound of the Bridge/Neck combo, I don't know if it is life changing, but I was blown away. It was disorienting to suddenly have a Strat roar like a Les Paul and ruiined me for a conventional strat ever again.
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Post by jdl on Apr 8, 2006 15:15:47 GMT -5
Hey guys; Thanks for the responses. I think I will stick with a strat for this project. I like the shape, and i'm used to it. At this point I think i will buy a Jay turser strat, most of the pawn shops around here have them, so that will probably be my best choice unless i can find a cheap squire. What do you guys think of a jay turser for a modder? I was wondering if the neck pocket will accept a strat replacement neck from warmoth or one that i find on ebay?
James
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Post by sumgai on Apr 8, 2006 17:07:56 GMT -5
James, What would that Jay Turser cost you? Did you know that GC will sell you a brand new Squier Strat for $99 May not be too much quality to start with, but there's hidden gold in there. If you're not near one of them stores, then check out American Musical Supply, where you can get the same deal, except for having to pay for shipping. Just a thought. sumgai
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Post by jdl on Apr 8, 2006 17:15:19 GMT -5
Sumgai;
The Jay Turser would be about $150 Canadian. And thats the problem for me, many American stores wont ship to Canada, and if they do shipping is very costly, and the duty is even more.....so it turns into a very expensive "cheap" guitar. I've searched the Jay Turser site and they don't seem to have any thing that I like in an H-S-H configuration. I'm sure i've seen one though.
James
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 8, 2006 18:46:55 GMT -5
Hey guys; Thanks for the responses. I think I will stick with a strat for this project. I like the shape, and i'm used to it. At this point I think i will buy a Jay turser strat, most of the pawn shops around here have them, so that will probably be my best choice unless i can find a cheap squire. What do you guys think of a jay turser for a modder? I was wondering if the neck pocket will accept a strat replacement neck from warmoth or one that i find on ebay? James James: The mule I described up earlier was a Turser Strat. Called a mule because I flogged it through so many prototypes during the TM-II development. It is HSH and the neck pocket fit is pretty universal. That said, always get the dimensions.. These "standard" necks range from almost 2 1/8" to 2 5/16ths, most in the 2 1/4" to 2 5/16". I've seen fatter. I prefer a nice snug fit. The Turser served me well for prototyping, and out of the box played pretty respectable. My opinion is that these private label distributors - Turser, Squire, Winter, entry lines of the names, all go to the same jobber factories in Indonesia, Taiwan, and China. Next step up tends to be Korean. Japanese are going to be as expensive or even more than Stateside. So the brand at that price point is pretty immaterial. My bias is against the bathtub routs, so if that is important to you than try to get a peek under the pickguard. One other thing to be aware of. Turser uses some sort of Asian very, very light wood. I am at this moment leveling frets on a Turser and a Gibby spec Les Paul. Both have pups removed and the LP is 3-4 X heavier. Demonstrable difference. The Turser is also lighter than my other Strat bods, so it is not the inherent weight diff between S and LP. It is the reason I am building it back out to sell. A Warmoth neck might be cost twice as much as a used complete Turser I also tend to like the Turser pups better than the cheap line Squires, which can sound brittle and harsh. The Tursers, while ceramic, have a more credible strat sound. Enough that I am building the T with Squire pups, because some want the "Fender" name, regardless how far removed. Finally, many low line Squires have laminated, dense plywood bodies. Heavy with resin. I have built nice sounding guitars out of these but many do not like them. RW
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Post by jdl on Apr 8, 2006 19:21:31 GMT -5
Hmm... Good stuff Rune, I guess i'll have to go shop around a bit on Monday to see what's out there. What about the actual p90's? I've seen some GFS soapbars on ebay for $30 each i think. I don't know how good they are though. Do you have any recomendations?
James
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Post by sumgai on Apr 8, 2006 23:11:12 GMT -5
Hey, we still got Canadians in here? I thought we sprayed for them! j/k! ;D Yeah, I understand about that over-the-border thing, Customs really has you guys over a barrel. Where do you live, I'm in Seattle. I'd be willing to drive up to Abbotsford and meet you at Tim Horton's, if you get my drift. Otherwise, the Turser's I've seen around here have all been pretty good values for the asking price. I guess I can only say "go for it". sumgai
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Post by jdl on Apr 8, 2006 23:29:17 GMT -5
Hey Sumgai; What a lucky coincidence! I live in South Eastern Alberta, but at the end of the month i'll be going to White Rock to visit family. So, in order to avoid wonderful Vancouver commuter traffic i'll be passing through Abbotsford twice. So, i think we may have a potential "covert operation" on our hands!!! I'm going to check out some local stores here Monday, and if i can't find anything i'll let you know, and maybe we can work something out..........let's say an extra large "double double", and honey crueller for a custom deluxe p90 strat with gold plated hardware? !!!!!......... James
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 8, 2006 23:36:48 GMT -5
Hmm... Good stuff Rune, I guess i'll have to go shop around a bit on Monday to see what's out there. What about the actual p90's? I've seen some GFS soapbars on ebay for $30 each i think. I don't know how good they are though. Do you have any recomendations? James That is where I am at a quandry. Polly'sHero did a thorough review of of GFS's Humbucker form-facton sized P-90s and those were Strat sized single coils in a humbucker shield case, which is a type of dishonesty or at least re-direction that irritates me, unless it was fully disclosed. The character of the P90 is different in part because of its form factor. So I want the real sized P90 bobbins and plate and mags. Also, I prefer Alnico to Ceramic. Just a personal preference because I have had a bunch of less than stellar ceramic pups, and few poor sounding Alnicos ---not to say that can't happen. I am leaning towards Jon Moore's custom wounds because I can specify the wind and importantly, the pole spacing, critical with a three pup array. These will then be more expensive than GFS's ($34/ on Jay's website). But I probably will do this only once, so want it done right, meaning spending a little more for a keeper is OK. I have thought about Kent Armstrongs. But they are no longer inexpensive. They used to be a pretty good value. Once you get to that price point then may as well look at the majors (Duncan and Dimarzio). Fralins and the boutiques are way outta my wallet range. There is an expensive one on Ebay called Diesel, no info about it, and I don't think they have RWRP. Finding the soapbars with RWRP is not easy. GFS' don't have that in their soapbars from what I can see. You could concievably take them apart and reverse the mag, and use the wire in reverse, but seems like most of the mags are securely glued? I am no expert on that comversion, or much of anything else. So this is a decision in process. The Moore's are where I lean. Anyone else know inexpensive or at least value P90s, alnico and with a RWRP option?
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Post by jdl on Apr 9, 2006 1:14:53 GMT -5
Hey rune;
Is their a website for those Jon Moore pickups? When i google it all i get is links to harmony central.
james
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 9, 2006 9:30:13 GMT -5
Hey rune; Is their a website for those Jon Moore pickups? When i google it all i get is links to harmony central. james I have not tried any of these, this is just my research on the subject. I am actually surprised anyone is interested enough to give me a chance for a brain dump. Jon's just one guy who winds these himself from what I can tell. He has until recently always put up one P90 set and one -hum set on Ebay at a loss leader price. I've been trying to get these for weeks, and am always sniped beyond my bid. When you snipe me I'm coming to gettcha. The thing he does that is very interesting and unavailable anywhere I know except maybe coil re-winders, is he will under custom order, put taps on the coils. Not the 4-wire lead thing on humbuckers, but breaks in the continuous winding that allow you to get for example a vintage or a modern hot wind on the same bobbin. I read about a Nashville studio musician who once had pickups built with 6 taps per bobbin, connected a rotary for different tapped sounds. Not sure these ears would hear all of that. But it would be nice, especially in these P90s to have a vintage wind and a hot wind, at least at the Bridge. I am very curious about that, but I have not mentioned it to the brains of this operation since it means more wiring and switch design. Oh boy. I already have a one Strat with 7 switches. He also will do -hums with disparate winds to emulate the poor quality control of Gibson in the early days and have one coil hotter than the other on a -hum for 'vintage' Mojo. Not having tested something like that I won't venture an opinion, but some guys are seriously into it. Another company towards this direction and with wind to spec customization is Vintage Vibe. Pete Biltoft is the name on the site. He may or may not be the one guy doing the winding on his pups. They look bigger on his site, but maybe he just has an HTML friend. No prices on his site so that makes me nervous. Although I have seen him list on Ebay at around $120 a set, starting bid. He does an added feature. He provides multiple magnet sets. So if you like Alnico V or ceramic you can mix and match. You might even be able to get Alnico 2, 3 or 4. Pete builds his P-90s with 3 conductor wiring, which is a plus for Nutz. Pete also has on Ebay a humbucker sized form factor, that looks like it might have larger bobbins than the GFS style fake P90s in a Humbucker package. To get the form factor means they would have to make the bobbin wider and shorter, so that may change the flux window, or whatever it is called. But it is intriguing. If it gets a genuine P90 sound, I have to say that is awfully tempting, because, at least in the Bridge and Neck, they are drop ins, no wood hogging required. Both of these guys get raves on HarmCent. There's a guy on Ebay selling a brand called Manlius that seems in the same direction, no customization though. Don't know anything about them A hybrid route balancing cost with requirements might be to buy a set of GFS or Diesel (Chopper Music on Ebay - somehow buying P90s from a shop that sounds like a vendor to bikers, seems appropriate) for value then order one from Jon or whoever, that specs to match the cheap one's but is RWRP. That may be your least expensive alternative. I prefer hotter pickups mostly, and 20% of the time might mellow to vintage sound. But the GFS and Diesel give you vintage or vintage. Ebay Store The Fret Shop sells some inexpensive Alnico P0s from G&B PICKUP CO --- don't know that name. Not calibrated, both N/B at 9K. Finally, Bill Lawrence might also be looked at. His relatively new L-609. Not much info on his site about them. He is crotchety as hell, but recognized by everyone as a type of genius in pickup design. Has done work for the majors, designed the Fender noiseless. I had an odd pair of his on a Gibson and they were unlike anything I have ever had. He tends to like Ceramic and will tell you to your face where to go if you don't like it. But his pups are state of the art, and really reasonable for name pups. Not to be confused with Bill Lawrence USA, which is a company he sold his name to a long time ago and their is some sort of contentiousness between them. Bill and Becky and Kids are direct link. He emphasizes hum canceling, so his P90s are probably some sort of hybrid or stacked -hum. I don't know and have not found out alot, but will put him on my investigation list. Websites: Jon Moore:www.tonefordays.com/Vintage Vibewww.vintagevibeguitars.com/pickups.htm[a href=" cgi.ebay.com/New-Soapbar-P-90-style-pickups-for-electric-guitar_W0QQitemZ7404322150QQcategoryZ22670QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"] cgi.ebay.com/New-Soapbar-P-90-style-pickups-for-electric-guitar_W0QQitemZ7404322150QQcategoryZ22670QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/a] Bill Lawrence[a href=" www.billlawrence.com/Pages/NewPickups05.htm"] www.billlawrence.com/Pages/NewPickups05.htm[/a] Choppers' Diesel P90[a href=" cgi.ebay.com/AGED-ALNICO-P90-DIESEL-GUITAR-PICKUP-SOAPBAR-CREAM_W0QQitemZ7379940649QQcategoryZ22670QQcmdZViewItem"] cgi.ebay.com/AGED-ALNICO-P90-DIESEL-GUITAR-PICKUP-SOAPBAR-CREAM_W0QQitemZ7379940649QQcategoryZ22670QQcmdZViewItem[/a] cgi.ebay.com/Humbucker-size-P-90-style-pickups-for-electric-guitar_W0QQitemZ7404997763QQcategoryZ22670QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemManlius[a href=" cgi.ebay.com/Manlius-Guitar-Pickups-Hot-Howlin-Goat-P90-P-90-New_W0QQitemZ7404988048QQcategoryZ22670QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"] cgi.ebay.com/Manlius-Guitar-Pickups-Hot-Howlin-Goat-P90-P-90-New_W0QQitemZ7404988048QQcategoryZ22670QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem[/a] Fret Shopcgi.ebay.com/GUITAR-PARTS-P-90-PICKUPS-ALNICO-5-MAGNETS-G117_W0QQitemZ7404368666QQcategoryZ22670QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemObviously the Ebay listings will eventually disappear if anyone reads this monologue in 60 days. RW
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Post by jdl on Apr 9, 2006 11:14:51 GMT -5
wow, thanks for that info rune, this will be very helpful in my search!
james
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 9, 2006 11:19:00 GMT -5
D'Nada James.
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Post by ChrisK on Apr 9, 2006 16:37:26 GMT -5
I'd looked at making a P-90 guitar for some time. I almost bought a Jaguar body routed for 3 P-90's and a Wilk Vibrato, but someone beat me to it. I looked at LPS bodies for a while to no avail.
Then I bought a PRS Soapbar SE for $390. A sunburst finished body, wide-fat set neck (both mahogany), gig bag, and somewhat pedestrian pickups and tuners. Unplugged it's fantastic. And it cost the equivalent of just a finished body.....
I've got a DiMarzio DLX Plus bridge pickup that will be tried (mid-scooped, an anti-typical humbucker that may complement the "middy" mahogany nicely). Additionally, an SD P-90 Stack will be tested in the neck. (And then there's the thought of routing for a middle pickup.)
I do notice that most bridge P-90's are farther from the bridge than many single coils and humbuckers.
sumgai,
I did an AutoCAD drawing some time ago to plot the respective harmonics (thru the 14th) of a note as a function of pickup position. It was quite interesting, and lent arguement to the 24th fret location issue of most neck pickups. For open strings....
However, once you fret upwards, things change.......
I then did some tests w/my VG-88 on pickup rotation. These SOFTWARE interpretations seemed to make some sense.
However, I could place a pickup at the 12th fret and still play at the 20th! Hmmmm.....
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Post by Runewalker on Apr 9, 2006 18:56:26 GMT -5
CK:
Very interested in your eval of the stacked P90, especially since you have reference tones for the P90 sound.
That little Jag that got away still sounds like the perfect match for a 3 banger P90 Juggernaut.
P90s Growl.
My favorite P90 signature tone? Hands Down......
Leslie West: Mountain, Climbing and Nantucket Sleigh Ride. Scenes from an Imaginary Western, scorched earth. Untouched, Untouchable. Clapton only wished he could 3-way like the Man Mountain Les. Is that a LP Jrl or a toothpick. Felix, I don't care if you believed you were Cream. What a butt. RIP. Where's that Mississippi Queen, you know what I mean?
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Post by sumgai on Apr 9, 2006 19:56:19 GMT -5
Runewalker channels my Walter Mitty-ism in secretly desiring to be the next Leslie West! sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 9, 2006 19:57:40 GMT -5
Chris,
I just had a phone call while writing my response above, and now I've got to sky up. I'll answer you more fully later tonight, or possibly it'll be tomorrow morning.
sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 9, 2006 19:58:17 GMT -5
James,
Expect a PM in a short while.
sumgai
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Post by ChrisK on Apr 9, 2006 20:34:12 GMT -5
Oh yeah! Leslie West and Mountain. Must of played that album 1,000 times while stationed in northern Alaska. My 'bro in law went to see him in Pittsburgh a while back. It wasn't all just "Mountain-climbing", but some real growth in other genre's as well. Yepper doopers, ain't nuthin' like a couple of P-90's in a light weight slab mahogany body/set neck (oh wait, that WOULD be my PRS soapbar SE!!!!!!!!!!!). If I could have only one guitar, it would be thus.
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