Removing tremolo studs...any suggestions?

[cynical1]

Greetings -

I've got a project body I'm looking to perform the "Hardtail conversion" on.

www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm

The problem I have is I don't have the screws for the tremolo studs. (It was an eBay GTX body)

Any suggestions on an easy way to get the threaded studs out of the body?

Thanks

Cynical1

[newey]

Cyn-

Given that you're going to be sanding and fitting 2 wood blocks as per your conversion link, with all that filling and sanding, what's 2 more holes? My thought would be to just get a carbide steel hardened drill bit and drill 'em down to about 3/8" below the surface, and then glue a couple of pieces cut from a dowel rod in place, filling and sanding just as your doing with the rest of the mod.

Of course, you need to make sure that the mounting screws for your hardtail won't have to go into the same place as the patches. As I'm visualizing it, shouldn't be a problem, the hardtail's holes should be well to the rear of that. But I'd rough-measure where that bridge needs to be first, so as to avoid a problem later.

[cynical1]

newey -

Drilling them was my first thought, but I don't have access to a drill press...and don't exactly trust my aim with a hand drill anymore...

I was toying with the idea of heating them with a soldering iron to loosen the glue and just using an EZ-Out, but I'm concerned that since they're so close to the humbucker routing I might split the wood.

You're right, the body won't show the scars after the surgery. I'm not trying to preserve the finish...I just don't want to run a router bit into a metal stud insert...that strikes me as a bad thing...

Happy Trails

Cynical1

[newey]

I just don't want to run a router bit into a metal stud insert...that strikes me as a bad thing...

Ok, I see from the tutorial link that those stud holes would be right in the path of your router, didn't realize at first glance that they had you routing out that much material.

Perhaps you could take the rout right up to the studs, say within a 1/4' or so, stop routing and chip the wood away from the side of the stud inserts with a chisel, or sand down to them with a sanding drum on your drill, prise out the inserts, then finish your rout thereafter.

Just thinking out loud here, hard to visualize without looking at the body to see exactly where that rout ends.

[cynical1]

newey said:

Just thinking out loud here, hard to visualize without looking at the body to see exactly where that rout ends.

Ask and you shall receive...




This isn't off of the project, (no digital camera...Luddite) but it gives you a good idea of how close the tremolo route is to the humbucker route.

If you don't sand the cavity paint off it measures 1/8" (3mm) from the humbucker route to where the plug route will end, although there is about a 1/2" (8mm) from the edge of the humbucker route to the center of the tremolo stud.

The stud is recessed about 1/8" (3mm) into the wood, and the hole depth measure about 15/16" (23.5 cm).

The body is basswood, so I'm guessing it'll be soft enough to allow the stud to come out without splintering...but I may be wrong...

Funny, all the post on the Net referring to trem studs all complain about them loosening up...go figure...

Happy Trails

Cynical1

[sumgai]

c1,

Why not just go down to the local hardware store (a real one, or a box store), and buy a bolt that will fit into those elongated nuts? (The inserts that receive the studs.)

An easy-out may work, I've never tried it myself, nor have I heard of it being done, but what the hey, there's always a pioneer in every crowd, right?

Basswood is softer than other guitar body woods, but it's still pretty hard, in comparison to say, pine. You probably won't split anything, if you don't exert a ton of pressure in a single blinding flash of explosive power. Slow and easy is the name of the game for operations like this.

Heat might work to break an adhesive bond, but remember that heat also causes both wood and metal to expand, making the joint even tighter. If the job still feels like it needs too much brute strength, try this: Both wood and metal shrink as they get colder, so put the body in the refrigerator overnight. Then, in the morning, hit the inserts with a shot of propane - that'll make them shrivel up like a prune! The resultant gap between the wood and metal should be significanly larger, meaning the adhesive should be a lot weaker, or the bond may even be broken entirely, without any force being applied at all.

SAFETY NOTE:

If you mess with propane like this, wear gloves!! Ventilate the area too, and until it's completely clear, avoid anything that might cause sparks.



Good luck!

HTH



sumgai

[cynical1]

Greetings -

The inserts are out.

Plus one to Sumgai for a flash of inspiration...(no propane was used in this solution, so there was no literal flash...)

Heat and cold...we used to do this to press fit tight bushing back in the day with a torch and a fire extinguisher...ah, those were the days...lethal force for fun and amusement...

Here's how it worked. Taking Sumgai's thought I used a soldering iron to heat the insert and break the glue bond. Then I took a can of Dust-Off and pasted it pretty good. With the insert now cold I took a square EZ-Out and just broke it loose and pulled it right out. Came out with very little force, no splinters or cracking involved...

Anyone interested in some used Floyd Rose inserts...

Happy Trails

Cynical1

[newey]

Cyn-

That's a lot closer than I imagined- 3mm?

I'd try the easy-out, if you splinter and/or "break on through to the other side", then you can make the plug bigger such that it goes to the rear of the humbucker rout, no? Or are you thinking the plug needs to have wood on all 4 sides for stability's sake?

Humbucker mounting rings can cover a lot of sins . . .

[sumgai]

c1,

You can aim a fire extinguisher that precisely? Who woulda thunk it?

Good, clean All-American fun, who can beat that? Your work here is done, you may now leave the building. ;D


sumgai

[cynical1]

sumgai said:

You can aim a fire extinguisher that precisely?

This was back about 100 years ago when I worked in the steel mills. You remember, back when an American made Stat cost under $500.00 new...

Back then aiming wasn't a requirement...even being able to focus was optional...

Thanks again Sumgai

Cynical1