Carl
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
|
Post by Carl on May 3, 2005 19:29:57 GMT -5
What make and model of strings does everyone use? I use Elixir polywebs-light gauge on my electric and the same for acoustic. I play mostly Rock. Any good suggestions?
|
|
|
Post by bam on May 3, 2005 20:12:12 GMT -5
Darco Acoustics light gauge (.012s), Yamaha Classic or Fender Black Nylon light gauge (.042s), and local-brand Magic Strings light gauge (.009s) - Made in Indonesia, not exported; nickel-wound 4,5,6 and 100% stainless steel 1,2,3. Very cheap and it can last up to 4-5 months without rusting. I usually changes 'em because of "string notches" development, not rust.
|
|
|
Post by mr_sooty on May 3, 2005 20:13:11 GMT -5
I use Ernie Ball cos they're the only ones that seem to make my guage. It's the 'Power Slinky' set. 11, 14, 18, 28, 38, 48.
I like to have the tone of the slightly heavier top (high)strings, but don't like to have me bottom strings too heavy. This set suits me really well.
Plus, one of my guitars has kinda small holes for the ball ends, and some brands have big ends that don't fit. Ernie's fit OK (though they are snug).
I'm less fussy with my accoustic, but usually Martin phospher bronze 0.12-whatever they go to.
|
|
|
Post by bam on May 3, 2005 20:18:22 GMT -5
The Darco Acoustic (also made by Martin,Inc.) is the cheaper version of Martin Phosphor Bronze. Almost half the price without a big difference in quality.
|
|
|
Post by StratLover on May 3, 2005 22:35:36 GMT -5
For me it all depends on the guitar, and a little trial and error. After spending a bunch of years with experimentation and the advice from others telling me I needed to use brand "X" because they are the best or the only strings the real pro's endorse or any other excuse, reason or other "BLAH, BLAH, BLAH".
I have found that Elixer(tm) custom light's .011-.052 work and sound fantastic on my Ovation(tm) acoustic. They are extremely bright and tend to last a little longer thanks to the polyweb coating.
On my Tele's(tm) I use Earnie Ball(tm) Power Slinky's .011-.048 simply because of the fixed bridge. The heavier top of this particular set gives the extra punch and tone a Tele(tm) is famous for and I like as well.
On my Strat's(tm) I use Earnie Ball(tm) Extra Slinky's .008-.038 because I am able to get a full 2-4 note bend depending on neck position. I use a roller trem on these three guitars and this really helps prevent string breakage from friction at the trem (when using lighter guage strings) dive bombing or reaching for the clouds on reverses. A roller nut is also emplemented on these guitars which all-in-all helps with string breakage from friction at the nut as well as assist in retaining the integrity of tuning. On the other two older models I use D'Addario Phosphor Bronze .010-.047 because of the quest for that all-evasive "VINTAGE TONE" that all of us Nut's search for so habitually.
On my Explorer(tm) I also use Earnie Ball Extra Slinky's .008-.038 with a fixed roller bridge and the same ability to bend applies here.
I myself have found out that there are several factors that apply to the choice of strings each player in particular uses.
1. Remember that comfort and playability are first and foremost on this list. If your fingertips start to ache from half an hour of solid playing, then it is pretty obvious that playing the same strings that Zakk Wilde plays, or trying to replicate SRV's #1 is not a real smart choice.
2. The sound you are after is not always in the strings. That sound is conducive of the guitar itself, then the strings come into the mix. Nut and bridge setups make a huge difference in overall tonal quality too.
3. The Genre or more simply put, the style of music we play is the least, most likely variable in the choice of strings. I can get the same sound from a overall heavy set of strings as a extra light set by simply adjusting amp, effects, and onboard volume, tone and pickup selection.
4. Finally if one is on a tight buget as most of us aspiring shreaders are, then a slightly and I do mean slightly heavier guage is probably a more economical choice, with singles readily available from most music stores. This is referenced back to comfort and playability.
The real truth about string selection has always been about personal preference and the comfort and playability that "YOU" the player are familiar and relaxed with. It makes absolutely no sense at all, to damage your fingers, guitar or worst of all cut your playing time down because of discomfort or aggravation. Always remember our best friends are attached to the end of our arms.
|
|
|
Post by GuyaGuy on May 4, 2005 2:35:23 GMT -5
HERE'S MY ANSWER: my friend once claimed that electric strings sound a lot better on acoustics so i took his theory to the test. i found i agree. i'm sure many won't, especially those who want a mellow jazzy tone, but for those who like sparkle and shimmer, you should try em!
i started buying musician's friend brand cuz you can get em in a 10 pack at $2 a set and they're probably just as good as other basic strings out there. even made in USA! the other reason for choosing musician's friend is tension. i play 10s and the string tension on musician's friend 10s is less than that of 10s from d'addario, my previous brand of choice, but not as slinky as ernie ball 10s. and that leads me to my question...
AND HERE'S MY QUESTION: what causes one string to have a different tension than another, if they both are of the same gauge? i believe that the brands i've been using all make their strings basically the same--nickel-plated, steel core, etc., but each one has a different tension. so what causes the difference? number of windings? if that's the case is the different tension only on wound strings? what is it? please, for the love of god, please tell me what it is!
|
|
|
Post by dunkelfalke on May 4, 2005 7:24:14 GMT -5
thomann value strings - 1 euro/set ;D
|
|
|
Post by RJB on May 4, 2005 8:59:27 GMT -5
Guy, The timbre or tuning of a string is determined by length, tension and mass. I don't have the exact equation but for a fixed length different string will have a different tension due to the EXACT mass of the string. Pure Nickel, Nickel/steel alloy, Nickel plated steel, Plain Steel, Stainless steel all have slightly different masses. String manufactures try to keep the tension on each string in the set equal by balancing the string size/material (mass). This reduces neck twist and uncomfortable transistions between strings.
As far as which string materials would lean towards less tension, not sure. I'd need to talk to a materials guy, rather than an electron pusher.
I use EB regular slinky (.010) pure nickel on one Tele, and Fender Super Bullet (.009)pure nickel on the other. Second one came setup for 9's and it plays real good so I'm not tinkering with it.
|
|
|
Post by RandomHero on May 4, 2005 16:12:56 GMT -5
Ernie Ball's power slinkies and regular slinkies. The power slinkies I use on my 6 string, and regulars on my 7.
|
|
|
Post by GuyaGuy on May 5, 2005 2:51:10 GMT -5
RJB, thanks for the reply. so it seems the mass of the strings causes the difference in my example. the makes/models i'm comparing all have steel hex cores w/ nickel plating--d'addario xl, ernie ball slinky, musician's friend. since steel is an alloy, i'm assuming it can be made to be more malleable, have more iron content, be denser, etc. so i'm guessing these attributes must figure in--as well as the thickness of the nickel plating.
when i first started playing, i played classical. classical strings are sold according to gauge AND tension. i find it odd that electric and western acoustic strings aren't.
|
|
|
Post by GuyaGuy on May 5, 2005 2:56:53 GMT -5
and another thing (just to stir things up...)
every good guitar book tells you to play the heaviest gauge you can because you get better tone, more sustain, better bending, etc. well, i LIKE the sound of light gauge strings! so there! probably for the same reason i use electric strings on acoustics and electrics alike--more sparkle, shimmer, and sizzle. heavy gauges, esp acoustic strings, sound dull and thumpy. me no likey.
|
|
|
Post by Trey on May 5, 2005 5:39:46 GMT -5
I use DR Pure Blues 11s.
|
|
|
Post by RandomHero on May 5, 2005 11:44:51 GMT -5
Heavy guages have their good points. When I first started playing I went really heavy; I was tuning .13s E to e. It helped the strength in my left hand to develop, now these standard and slightly heavy sets feel like rubber bands!
Heavier guage = more tension = less vibration = less fret buzz at lower action = longer sustain. Which is great if you play metal. But bends and other such tricks become rather a hassle.
|
|
wixedmords
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
|
Post by wixedmords on May 5, 2005 14:10:30 GMT -5
D'Addario 10's (Normal Bottom) in most of my electrics.
D'Addario Extra Light Acoustic
|
|
|
Post by GuyaGuy on May 7, 2005 1:38:27 GMT -5
randomhero: i know what you mean cuz i started on classical guitar, which has big thick nylon strings. so when i started on electric i couldn't tell when i was even fretting a string!
|
|
emerlin
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
|
Post by emerlin on May 7, 2005 17:45:59 GMT -5
I don't have any acoustics.
On my electrics I use D'Addarios. Usually XL 11-49s, but I keep a couple strung with an XL 10 set for when friends come over.
|
|
dinis64
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
|
Post by dinis64 on May 7, 2005 20:40:29 GMT -5
Well, I know there aren't many Gibson fans here (which I can understand even thought I like the stuff that's made well), but a few months ago I got some Gibson Brite Wires, .11's.
I was at a stage where I didn't particularly care about brand, only the size. But when I got the Brite Wires, I was kind of surprised to get so excited over strings.
Since then a friend gave me a set of GHS .11's (Boomer's ?) and I thought they were supposed to be great. I broke two of them in about two weeks. And I didn't like the sound or feel as well as Brite Wires. I know I need to get graphite saddles, or try to work on mine, but I hardly ever break the Brite Wires.
I love the Brite Wires. I like the way they sound, feel, and they don't break as easy.
By the way, I saw at Guitar Center yesterday that they are selling 20 sets of some GHS strings for like $5 or something. That may just be a week-end sale.
|
|
damian
Meter Reader 1st Class
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
|
Post by damian on May 8, 2005 21:09:20 GMT -5
ghs guitar boomer 11 to 52 they hardly ever break sound great and thats what i carved my nut for so thats what i stick to. i agree with strat lover strings are pretty personal. also if your nut is slotted for 9s and you try to drop in 11s or 13s you might have a problem. this goes the other way also going down in guage say from 11s to 9s youll lose a little tone because your strings will rattle in their nut slots. it may not be super noticeable but you never know. something to think about peace, damain
|
|
|
Post by bam on May 8, 2005 21:19:18 GMT -5
Wha ? I think there were lots of LP/SG fans back then in GN1..
|
|
|
Post by StratLover on May 8, 2005 21:42:49 GMT -5
Explorer players as well ;D
|
|
|
Post by Trey on May 8, 2005 22:17:42 GMT -5
Wha ? I think there were lots of LP/SG fans back then in GN1.. I don't even own a Fender, nor do I like them, I'm a Gibson Man thru and thru. Wouldn't be caught dead without a 335 style guitar
|
|
marmora
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
|
Post by marmora on May 8, 2005 22:43:25 GMT -5
I just picked up some strings from www.webstrings.com but I haven't gotten a chance to try them yet. My friend's Aunt actually works at a factory where some strings are manufactured and she gives him a bunch of classical guitar strings that he can never use! haha
|
|
dinis64
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
|
Post by dinis64 on May 11, 2005 11:05:04 GMT -5
Cool! I didn't know that.
|
|
|
Post by erikh on May 11, 2005 11:46:38 GMT -5
On my Martin acoustic, Martin SP Light. Worth the little extra $$ IMO.
Electric's: Dean Markley or Dean Markley Blue Steel, either .009-.042 or .010-.046 (depending on the guitar).
I like Fender Bullet 150XL's too but have been sticking with Dean Markley for a long time now.
|
|
|
Post by GuyaGuy on May 12, 2005 4:25:15 GMT -5
well someone back there mentioned a brand of strings not even lasting a month, which seemed like a long time to leave strings on a guitar if you play it regularly. so, let me pose the question to go along w/ the current discussion of brands:
HOW LONG DO YOU GO BETWEEN STRING CHANGES? HOW LONG BEFORE YOUR STRINGS GO DULL AND WHAT BRAND/MODEL ARE THEY?
obviously "dull" is relative, and for some, those are 2 diffrent questions. for example, i've not installed locking tuners on my current guitars yet, and i hate (HATE!) changing strings w/out them. SOO...i may leave my d'addario XLs or musician's friend premiums on 3-4 weeks even though they lose their sizzle and snap before that. then again, i started using a string cleaner from gibson, and i've found that it does add a LOT to their life!
|
|
ShadowSong
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
|
Post by ShadowSong on May 12, 2005 8:10:49 GMT -5
the brand of string is alot less important than the materials used to make them. I use nickle wound 9-42s on my electrics. right now I'm using Martin Darco 9's because they're cheap.
on my acoustic guitars i use phospher bronze 10-47's i started out just using Kaman Adamas strings but now i get a three pack of d'addarios of the same guage.
if i buy my strings at the music shop instead of ordering them I use Peavey strings.
|
|
|
Post by erikh on May 12, 2005 8:28:15 GMT -5
HOW LONG DO YOU GO BETWEEN STRING CHANGES? HOW LONG BEFORE YOUR STRINGS GO DULL AND WHAT BRAND/MODEL ARE THEY? I'll go a month or more between changes. Granted, I don't play near as much as I used to or want to (2 year old daughter, selling house, blah blah blah) but even when I was playing more, I'd still leave strings on for more than a month. Been using nickle/steel Dean Markley's or Blue Steel's for years and they maintain good tone all the way, more so with the Blue Steels. I wipe down the strings and neck every time I put my guitars up. No locking tuners on any of them (no biggie to me anyway) but one has a Floyd Rose and I hate changing the strings on that one.
|
|
dinis64
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
|
Post by dinis64 on May 12, 2005 21:35:33 GMT -5
Erik H said,
When I was a kid, my guitar teacher stressed that I wipe down the strings and it became habit. I stopped playing for a while, and I no longer wipe down the strings. Recently, I had decided I was going to start doing that. I even put a rag in my case, but I don't think I've wiped them down once.
What's probably worse is, I leave my main guitar out of the case on a stand, because I've found that I play more, so they, and the guitar itself collect dust more(but I do play more). I haven't used a string cleaner in a long time.
Since I've started using the Gibson Brite Wires, my stirngs don't seem to sound near as bad after they have been on for a while, and they don't break near as often, either. The strings I have on now could stand to be changed, but I've been too busy. They still ring good enough for me (but I'm sure I'll change them soon). They have probably been on there for 5 weeks, and they have been played on a bit.
|
|
|
Post by jdtogo on May 14, 2005 6:18:38 GMT -5
I have try alot of strings ...... wow . anyway I use Gibson Electric Guitar Vintage Re-Issue Pure Nickel, .010 - .046 . for me they have a great all around good sound and i play mostly blues so it works for me . but on my stat I still use stock fender strings .
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on May 16, 2005 6:21:25 GMT -5
The other day I put on a set of Elixir 10-46 strings, with 'Nanoweb' coating. Anyone ever try these? They seem to be standard nickel plated steel with a polymer coating that stops gunk getting into the core of the wound strings, hence making last much longer. The initial sound is good, with a nice zing to them. Ill see if they do last longer.
John
|
|