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Post by sbgodofmetal on May 31, 2012 10:52:57 GMT -5
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Post by yakkmeister on May 31, 2012 22:12:56 GMT -5
Links aren't working for me ...
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Post by sbgodofmetal on May 31, 2012 22:41:46 GMT -5
They're not for me either just checked I get off work in 15minutes and ill fix it.
Ok links have been fixed and more have been added. Sorry bout that its been a long night at work.
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Post by andy on Jun 1, 2012 7:21:57 GMT -5
With a bolt-on neck and pine body your already moving away from the trad thunderbird construction, but there's no reason it shouldn't still sound cool. There seems to be a lot of interest in pine telecasters on the 'web, but I've not seen much about basses. I'll be keen to hear how it works out for you!
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Post by yakkmeister on Jun 1, 2012 7:34:34 GMT -5
You'll want void-free boards without all those knots in it ... though you won't see the knots if you're using an opaque finish, you're better off to use the best stuff you can instead of making more hassle for yourself.
Seems like a cool project - being a softer wood, I suspect it will have a warmer tone. Expect standard pickups to lose the chimey top-end; use pickups voiced to be a little brighter. Cynical1 may have a better idea about that than I though.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 1, 2012 13:28:26 GMT -5
I was planning on just hand picking it myself to ensure a quality board. But then I found this.... www.exoticwoods.com/product.php?productid=49&cat=71&page=1And wouldn't you know most of my work load is cut in half and its cheaper too... But there's one big trade off going with the sapele body Blank, it'll only produce one full sized guitar, were as the pine board would produce four.
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Post by andy on Jun 1, 2012 14:35:50 GMT -5
So is it actually cheaper? As in less than a quarter of the price of the four-body pine board?
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 1, 2012 14:45:05 GMT -5
So is it actually cheaper? As in less than a quarter of the price of the four-body pine board? There's a few $$$ difference, and less ill have to cut and glue so that takes out the extras id have to buy such as wood glue and clamps. So monetarily yes, productivity no. Besides that I'm staining the body not painting it and the sapele just appealed to me more than the pine.
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Post by andy on Jun 1, 2012 15:04:30 GMT -5
Yes, stained and polished it would take on that mahogany-like 'depth' which looks so good. It also swings you back into the territory of the original from a tonewood point of view, if you're looking to keep the sound closer to the typical Thunderbird one.
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 1, 2012 18:47:35 GMT -5
Sapele is a hard wood, a bit harder the Rock Maple, but a very pretty wood. A solid Sapele body will lean more on the brighter side. If you can find fiddle back Sapele it is beautiful for a cap.
While I have no particular hard on for pine, I feel it has too many inherent shortcomings to make a good guitar or bass. It's usually very soft, full of knots and can be a PITA to grain fill. Not to say a good piece of pine does not exist, but by the time you pay the full boat for a select specimen you may as well have gone for something else.
My preference for a bass is poplar. Sure, it's ugly, but it has a strange sort of bounce to it that other woods don't seem to possess. I prefer it, but YMMV.
That's a pretty good price on that blank, too.
HTC1
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 1, 2012 21:41:03 GMT -5
Price was the second factor for the choice of sapele. I really like the look of poplar and was concidering using it but still gotta cut glue and clamp. My church just built a new sanctuary out of 100 year old poplar and it looks amazing I'll try to get some pictures Sunday and post.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 1, 2012 21:49:48 GMT -5
One thing I know I'm going to do is add a piezo to it and throw in an extra on/on/on switch so you'll have Bridge Bridge/neck Neck
Bridge+piezo Brigde/neck+piezo Neck+piezo
Piezo alone
Plus my personal favorite- a 6way varitone
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 1, 2012 23:54:18 GMT -5
Although I may build one out of pine one day just for kicks and giggles lowes has some glued edge pine boards that are 1"x20"x36" for round about $10 a board and a knot free and the pores are pre filled, and its stain grade ;D
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 2, 2012 0:04:12 GMT -5
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 2, 2012 9:03:57 GMT -5
Does any one know were I can find those tiny little hex screws they put in knobs? Welcome to the wonderful world of wood knobs. You do love to over complicate things, don't you... First off, a set screw used in most woods, unless you're going with some ultra hard exotic, will not take repeated or over tightening very well. I have seen them with the star brass insert glued into the blind hole, but have no idea where you get those, unless you buy them in a large lot quantity. A search in Google may turn up something, though. I've done wood knobs before, on request, normally from horn scraps from the cap or body...and charged accordingly. Build your first set and you'll understand why the good non-import ones cost so friggin' much. What I would suggest is doing some research on finding threaded inserts, either 4-40 or 2-56. They look like this: You'll probably find 4-40 set screws easier, so I'd stick to those, plus they'll hold the shaft better then 2-56. They look like this: You will need a good drill vise and a drill press to get these right. Since you're buying rod stock that will simplify the process, provided you can get the diameter that suits your fingers. A small wood lathe is desirable as trying the SWAG a dome end by hand is a fool's errand. You can also use the lathe to cut grooves for o-rings, as finished wood knobs can be slippery for sweating fingers. This is the concept: That's a brief over view. And since seem to enjoy piling more work on yourself, ever see the Torzal Twist? Muahahahahahaa... Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 2, 2012 9:32:14 GMT -5
That helped a lot c1 I wouldn't have known exactly what size to get if you hadn't of posted that. I tend to like the straight and flat topped more than the rounded I was planning on cutting grooves on the side. Think screw threads I may just wind up buying a cheapo set of knobs and using the screws from those, and putting those knobs in the spare parts bin. Although it looks cool as hell I wouldn't have a guitar or bass like that one, I'm 24 and don't wish to get carpel tunnel syndrome by playing a twisted guitar!
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 2, 2012 10:48:27 GMT -5
Although it looks cool as hell I wouldn't have a guitar or bass like that one, I'm 24 and don't wish to get carpel tunnel syndrome by playing a twisted guitar! Actually, the design is a collaboration between Xavier Padilla and Jerome Little to alleviate Padilla's RSI. HTC1
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Post by andy on Jun 5, 2012 6:25:05 GMT -5
Owww. That looks like my back feels.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 6, 2012 20:20:14 GMT -5
Project one has been put on the back burner until further notice. He just can't act right so I'm not building it until he can show me he can behave
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 7, 2012 1:16:43 GMT -5
Ok thunderbird bass canceled. Jeez teenagers are such a pain in the a$$. project one is now an ibanez styled strat or rg whatever they call em now a days. So details... Maple body Birdseye maple set neck Sapele top and fretboard Semi hollow Rear routed ("non" pickguard) Tele bridge pup strat middle and neck Double barrel pup selecting Varitone passive Piezo under the bridge Walnut knob Bloodwood dot inlays More on this later gotta go to bed now... P.S. and yes I'm buying the template so no bs on measuring and tracing my st to get an rg... thank you
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Post by yakkmeister on Jun 7, 2012 6:03:40 GMT -5
Why not build the T-Bird anyways?
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 7, 2012 6:36:53 GMT -5
Why not build the T-Bird anyways? I'm going too cause I want one as bad as he did but I got other projects to get done as well. So it'll be built but it'll be for me and later on.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 7, 2012 10:11:56 GMT -5
Ok just priced the wood for the project altogether its $159.16.
That's body, neck, fretboard, top, head stock veneer, control cover, S.C. bobbins, S.C. mounting plates, knobs, fret dot inlays, and strap buttons!!!
Not a bad price when you get that much out of it and "still" have scrap left over ;D ;D ;D
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 20, 2012 2:54:49 GMT -5
Here we go, I call it the banshee_castor More info later still trouble shooting the setup but as it stands the body template is done. for now!!!!!!AFAICT the pickup cavities are accurate. 86mm long x 26mm wide, 10mm is the center line. The neck is a set neck so no worries there. large cavity for gawd knows what ill throw in it ("AFAICT= as far as I can tell")
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 28, 2012 21:09:50 GMT -5
Hey check this one out Found it on ebay Price: $79.95 Shipping: $29.95 Location: Mobile, Alabama Ships to: US Condition: Used
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Post by cynical1 on Jun 29, 2012 10:01:26 GMT -5
So, what is it?
HTC1
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Jun 29, 2012 12:23:20 GMT -5
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Aug 16, 2012 23:59:01 GMT -5
Well every one I hit the motherboard ;D and scored a job at a cabinet shop, within a few days project 1 will have officially started and I nearly hit the floor when I saw the price of the wood I had selected
wait for it...
$35+tax. For 3, 1"x12"X96"white oak boards.
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Aug 21, 2012 19:19:48 GMT -5
Progress as of today Now this is a poplar bridge I made using stewmacs specs for their oversized acoustic bridge. Progress day 2 OOPS!!! My G string slipped Starting to setup the template
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Post by sbgodofmetal on Aug 26, 2012 10:16:16 GMT -5
Fridays progress
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