spareribs
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 2
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Post by spareribs on Aug 19, 2014 18:32:03 GMT -5
Hello, I am trying to get advice on how to remove some of the black outer edge from this sunburst finish. I know the whole thing is completely covered in a clear coat. I am thinking that by sanding slowly using a 3.5"x7.5" finish sander I can remove part of the finish by keeping the sander parallel to the top and thereby removing the finish slowly down to the black, remove some of it and then either wax it or apply a matte finish. I have to imagine in the history of the whole world someone has either attempted this or at least thought about it. Any response would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by haydukej on Aug 20, 2014 14:17:49 GMT -5
Ribs, What's your end goal in attempting this? Are you wanting more of the burst/stain part to show? If that's the case, I would advise against it. Now granted I have only stripped/sanded one finish on a guitar, and it was only red paint to bare wood. But based on what I know for wood working, stains, and sealers, the margin between "aww crap" and "hey that looks cool" is very thin. If you were to work from the center out, I imagine you would end up with something of the burst/stain, followed by a faded ring where you sanded, followed by the original black edge. When I stripped off the clear coat and red paint on mine, I used the gel stripper from Home Depot. Straight sanding would have been next to futile. I think I had a good three applications with it to get it bare. My opinion, would be one of two options. - Leave the finish as is, take it on the road and play it straight for 40 years
- Strip/sand it down completely and start fresh for whatever you have in mind. Keeping in mind, that you might never get all of the original stain off and should go darker.
I'm guessing more advice will be on the way, so take mine for whatever it's worth. I wonder if anyone else will notice the Strat neck on an Epi?
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 20, 2014 15:17:00 GMT -5
Yeah I noticed that as well. I don't know what the scale length of the Epis is, was or should be- and with a wrap around bridge in the mix too. Figured it was probably a short scale neck but left the thought there.
e&oe
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spareribs
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
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Post by spareribs on Aug 21, 2014 20:11:34 GMT -5
Hello, The neck is a Warmoth, Gibson scale 24 3/4". I bought it for a different project that didn't work out. I bought just the loaded Epi body off craig's list minus the neck. After searching high and low for a replacement, I decided to use the Warmoth since I already had it. I removed the small piece of wood from between the neck pocket and the neck pickup cavity, installed it so the intonation was correct and it works really well. I addition to being the proper scale it is also of the correct radius too as the action is very low without rattling. Next was the making of the pick guard to mimic a Les Paul JR, remove the selector switch and replace with a 5 position 4 pole rotary switch that produces 5 different sounds 1. Series in phase (humbucker) 2. Single coil (north) 3. Parallel in phase 4. Single coil (south) 5. Series out of phase. The knobs are the Tele chrome dome type, tuning pegs are Grover. The bridge is a TOM using a stop bar tailpiece.
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Post by newey on Aug 24, 2014 22:31:05 GMT -5
Spareribs-
Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!
I have never tried to remove just a portion of the finish. Like haydukej, I tend to doubt you'll get good results. If you go in with the attitude that you're willing to refinish the whole thing from the wood up if you fail, then I'd say take a shot at your idea. If, in the event of failure, you're unwilling to strip it all down and start over, then I'd say leave it alone. The risk you run is the risk of having to redo it completely, so let that be your gauge.
Just my 2 cents, anyway.
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Post by cynical1 on Aug 28, 2014 19:07:28 GMT -5
Several things come to mind immediately. First off, using a power sander is quicker, but it also allows for a larger margin of error. And you're going to have to hand sand the cutout anyway.
I might have missed the reason, but I have to ask... Why?
Another thing to think about is what you'll find when you do strip the finish. The wood may be less that attractive so a natural finish may look like...something you don't want... The top you see now may very well be an .040" veneer.
Stripping the sides is always more time consuming that stripping the top and bottom. In for a penny, in for a pound, but if I'm pulling the 80 grit green stripping snadpaper out I'm doing the entire body.
I've never used the stripper listed above. I have used aircraft stripper, and that's about the only thing that cuts through the modern catalyst\epoxy\titanium\kryptonite coatings everyone uses these days. It is messy and can leave a discoloration on the wood, so if you're going au naturale that might not be your best bet either.
At least it looks like binding is not an issue to deal with.
HTC1
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