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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2019 13:08:46 GMT -5
I dont know where to start as been redesigning things. I've designed a SSS type and a 2Pickup (dont want to use SS as a word) with my own design of Switching Switching Side Using 4P4T Rotary Switch as a way to Flip the Middle/Bridge 5Way Switch (S-Type) has been Edited so the -Neck can link up to Ground, Ground, Middle,Middle & Bridge Middle links up to Ground, Bridge, Bridge, Ground, & Ground. Then leads on to a Hexadecimal Switch (basically 4xSPST switches) With a 500K leading on to a Bass Tone control (This is to make it so the Bass can be 250K/500K before hitting a 500K pot, this gives me a Range of 0-250K-750K and 0-500K-1M as i felt the last 250K didnt do much for the Bass line)One of the design down size is needs 6!! holes + 5way switch This is due to, i wanted to show off too much and i couldnt think what to leave out Tone/Volume Controls Here we have a Dual 250K Pot, with Push/Pull switching that works with a Hexadecimal Switch for a Range of Capacitors to go with it, the pot changes from 250K+250K to 1/((1/250K)+(1/250K))=125K.. So 500K/125K, but with the Hexadecimal Switch it lets you also tap the Middle to give you just a 250K Pot. The other parts of the Hexadecimal Switch that lets you pick by summing the Capacitors up 10nF, 14n7F, 22nF, 26n7F, 32nF, 36n7F, 44nF and 48n7F.. Hitting the 10nF, 15nF, 22nF, 33nF and 47-50nF common used. The Bass Part of the tone G&L used C1M with 2n2F, I've used 500K with 500K pot, this can be cut down to 250K with the Selection Pot before. Basically 1/((1/500K)+(1/500K))=250K, this gives me 0-250K-750K and 0-500K-1M. How to get the Zero, well is is down by a POT that is CUT near the 0 end of things, making is so that when the Knob is set on 0 this CUT Pot comes in to Play ONLY and By Passing the Bass Tone. The Volume is my own Bleed, that works off a Signed Wafer, that has 220pF on ALWAYS but from 10-7 also adds in a 820pF making it up to 1040pF (1n04F) after that another 820pF comes in to series with the first 820pF, what basically Halfs the Value to 410pF, add on the 220pF making 630pF, and then about 4, both the 820pF drop off leaving just the 220pF. This too is only turned on by a Push/Pull switch.Could put a Push/Pull on the bass line to Change the Capacitor, i think 1n8F was also suggested.
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Post by Deleted on May 29, 2019 11:47:14 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on May 31, 2019 8:52:31 GMT -5
ReTHINKING this, as the plan as it was, would mean CUTTING in to the Guitars Body But i think !!! that with just 5 HOLES (Pots/Switching) and a 5way Switch I could just replace the Jack socket for a Volume Pot and drill a hole on the side for a Jack Socket to go..
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Post by newey on May 31, 2019 14:06:06 GMT -5
If this is a traditional type Strat design with the so-called "canoe" jackplate, some woodworking of the jack socket will probably be needed in addition to the hole for a side jack. I doubt the "canoe" routing is deep enough to take a pot, although a "dime-sized" pot might fit.
If you replaced two of the pots with one concentric pot, no woodworking would be needed!
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