Lever Switch

[Deleted]

I've played around with some of the Alpha/S-Type Lever Switch .. Cheap and does the job
I am going a bit Crazy with this project and feel i am missing some thing with blinkers on my eyes


My DREAM was to get 4 POLE out of it, ie copy the sides and then DOUBLE it for the TOP and BOTTOM
The other DREAM was 6 and 7 Way









4P7+7T board, i did make one for the 5way too 4P5+5T using it on a standard lever i do get 2P5+5T because there is just Two Claws ever side but it lets me PICK to different States for each common


I had to cut in to the POST (i dont know i keep Mucking it up as i got it right on the first board i did!!) anyway the ones with the BLACK DOTS May have had their Tracks Damage so i expect no Result out of it really, but shocking some of them work think its C1 on the FACE side was Damaged but the Track still Connects!!


WOW i didnt know this was possible i just dragged this photos from my Phone and uploaded them so i i have two Photos Merged is kinda shocking


i am a Bit worried inside there as its hard to see but i would like the Lever to be More in the MIDDLE myself so may need to drop it down by 0.5mm


another worry is the SIZE of the ball that does the location points, i fear it maybe pushing it over. I've tried 2.5mm and 3mm both dont touch it. i cant remember what size i have in here but it isnt the ball that came with it.
you can see the empty space for 4 Pole, i figured fight for 2 Pole and then Move on to the 4 Pole later.


These Claws BEND So easy and fighting to put the PCB on top i fear can damage them dam easy
For another project i wanted to use BALLS to do the connecting bit. But I've noticed on other switches that the ball is normally spring loaded and DAM killer using springs and not much space. I was thinking maybe FOAM talking 0.1-0.5mm thick just to hold it in place but to take the bite when you push the board in to place and then SEAL it.
BUT also once i DITCH these Claws because they bend so easy and its costing me to buy TWO
SWITCHES just to make one 7Way and DITCH a lot. I would have to Design a NEW case to go with it.


So the black one is the 3/5 way switch
I am worried about the HIGH of mine for the Claws as i've used just Blue Tack Glue as i didnt want to GLUE these things in to place.


my 4P5+5T board that works as a 2P5+5T Meaning i can have ANY on each throw

[newey]

Did you have those PCBs made up for this?

What is it that you're missing?

[Deleted]

Jun 3, 2022 8:13:19 GMT -5 newey said:

Did you have those PCBs made up for this?

What is it that you're missing?

The problem is the CLAWS are not connecting as i wished
they work on the 5 way boards but the angle is a LOT bigger
90 Degrees where i had to Narrow this down to 72 Degrees for the 6 and 7 way to get the location holes
meaning i had to narrow down the PCB area to, but all it takes is the Claw bending a bit too much it could hit the other track

[newey]

Hmmm. Don't know what to tell you on the claws or how else you would do the mechanics of it.

A few years ago I bought one of Oak Grigsby's 6-way lever switches for a project but ended up not using it. It mounts into the same holes as a regular Strat lever switch but requires lengthening the slot. They didn't narrow the angle between each position on the switch as far as I can tell (didn't measure angles) because, if you mount it into a standard-sized slot, the switch won't go to position 6; you only get 5 positions. Not sure if extending the angles/slot would help in your situation though

[Deleted]

at the moment i want any Ideas Bumping o
my FEAR is the CLAW i cant control as it is, it may TWIST inside its hole, Bend too MUCH, Bend too LITTLE, each of the claws can bend on it



PCB say 1mm for easy maths (may increase depending on costs)
about 0.25mm Gap
1mm Ball x 3 too run over the 3 Tracks
Metal Plate to Join the 3 Balls as a Link 1mm (ive been Cutting open Drink Cans and Making it Flat, a bit of Tap and Breaking Thin Slivers off)
then FOAM to Replace the Spring, not sure how to do this
Then the Cog

have a Design a bit like this on another 5 way Lever Switch but it has Spring Loaded Balls Pushing on to a Track


========

Taken out some of the glue under the Claws
Front Side
1) A2, 2) A3, 3) A4, 4) A5, 5) A6, 6) A7, 7) NONE
1-7 NONE on C
Back Side
1) A2, 2) A3, 3) A4, 4) A5, 5) A6, 6) A7, 7) NONE
1) C3, 2) C3, 3) C4, 4) C5, 5) C6, 6) C7, 7) C7

Front Side A5 & C1 maybe damaged
Back Side A5 maybe damamge

[newey]

Just off the top of my head, I'm not visualizng how using foam will work. The ball bearings operate to give a "click" into each position, giving a tactile "feel" when using the switch. That "switch feel" is important, doesn't do any good to have it work electrically if the mechanics of it are iffy.

Same thing with pots. People prefer the 24mm pots to the 17mm ones, not because there is any difference electrically, but just because the bigger ones "feel better" as you turn them.

[Deleted]

Jun 3, 2022 9:02:01 GMT -5 newey said:

Just off the top of my head, I'm not visualizng how using foam will work. The ball bearings operate to give a "click" into each position, giving a tactile "feel" when using the switch. That "switch feel" is important, doesn't do any good to have it work electrically if the mechanics of it are iffy.

Same thing with pots. People prefer the 24mm pots to the 17mm ones, not because there is any difference electrically, but just because the bigger ones "feel better" as you turn them.

The CLICK is on the Side and it is Ok
What i think i need to do is replace the CLAW as that RUNS along the Tracks




This one using a Spring Pushing on to a Ball that Runs on the Track, i figured i could use a Foam to push the Ball and the Plate it is running on

[thetragichero]

i would not rely on foam vs metal spring to provide consistent mechanical feedback on a ball bearing. over time there's going to be a round indentation in that foam that will no longer "push" on your bearing

[Deleted]

I guess could figure out a SPRING like is used on the side of the Case
just a Metal Strip Pressed up on every sides

But you do KNOW that this isnt for the LOCATION ball, just to Connect Tracks together. So there it is only for the First Press of the PCB to make connection and for the

So would be a PCB pushing DOWN, Metal Ball and then Metal Strip to make the Connections. with the Foam just lightly pushing up.
If worried about Metal Balls Pushing down on to a Metal Strip to Make a Groove, it would have to bend and break the Metal Strip.


But the other way is to Arc a bit of Metal aiming for a target that is 1.350mm x 0.325mm first bit , that is my MAX Area to hit on a Arc
2.235mm x 0.710mm second bit .... so say 3.7mm x 0.3mm abouts and not forgetting the common so thats a 2.25mm so brings it to 6mm x 0.3mm
the depth i can go down is 4mm before it hits the PCB

so guess looking at 12.5mm metal strip to be pushed in to a 8mm hole to get the 4mm

[MattB]

I don't have any useful advice to offer, but this is a really impressive and ambitious idea. I hope you stick with it find a solution to the problems you're having.

[Deleted]

Got a NEW Cog done, looks good BUT




the dam POST have snapped so i dont think im using the Right Resin
I think the Cog in the switch is Nylon

I need new boards making as the Location Post are dam important
but the cog looks good
MIGHT want to increase the MASS around the ARM in the middle to take the force off the TWO post (now dimples as they snapped off)