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Post by b4nj0 on Nov 22, 2022 16:57:56 GMT -5
It's "blind" because if you hold it up and look along the threaded hole, you can't see right through.
Oops, doubled!
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Post by b4nj0 on Nov 17, 2022 5:34:26 GMT -5
Just check how deep the hole in the timber is. In the absense of a depth gauge, and anticipating that the probe on a caliper might be too wide, use a pin punch or something similar to gauge the depth. The hole in the timber may have been counterbored to within the skin of its teeth and that is not a happy place to exert such force.
I have used a short length of 1/4" thick mild steel flat bar with a suitable hole in the middle for the bolt. This I supported upon two corks from wine bottles, one at each end, but any non marring support would do and perhaps be more stable. There's a remote chance that the bush could be blind too- worth establishing before torqueing down on the bolt, but since that would prevent the air from exiting upon insertion it's pretty unlikely. Cyn1's approach follows the KISS tech and has much to commend itself in most instances.
Finally, I'm a strong advocate of pressing the replacement bushes in rather than hammering. It's surprising how much we apply a glancing blow with a hammer, and that can make the bush dig into one side of the hole. An ordinary drill press (called a pillar drill over here!) is acceptable even though it wasn't designed for such abuse.
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Post by b4nj0 on Oct 20, 2022 2:47:20 GMT -5
Did you mean you don't have a suitable size of drill bit? I have reservations regarding the possibility of routing when you drop the big one that you don't possess a drill let alone "Mole" / Vise Grips.
Good point though; if they are hardened steel it would (start to) become difficult to drill, but there again, if they are hardened rounding off seems less likely. You have companies like McMaster Carr over there? They carry enormous inventories of fasteners, certainly a better selection than over here.
Anyway, I get the impression that you've kind of committed to total replacement and I sort of don't blame you. Cyn1 has way more experience in this arena than myself, so I defer to him!
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Post by b4nj0 on Oct 19, 2022 17:56:23 GMT -5
Apologies in advance if I'm off target, or even unwelcome in the context of the thread development because I'm trying to second guess this from the images and text. I take it that the hexagonal recess in the tiny Allen cap head screw is rounded off and not the horizontal intonation adjusting screw? I've never had much luck with stud extractors, especially in such a small size, but that is an option. That being the case and going by the OFR image, after removing the adjacent saddle(s) you ought to be able to get sufficient purchase with a self grip wrench (AKA "Mole" grips or similar) to remove it, but failing that you could still drill off the screw head with an appropriate HSS twist drill? You'd need a drill bit just a fuzz larger than the thread diameter- not one as big as the cap head. The object is to separate the head from the thread. Maybe then you could lift the saddle off the remaining stud and said stud might then be removed with the same self grip wrench and a new screw procured. Maybe one of the screws from the new bridge might fit. Bottom line- I'd try first and retain the option of total bridge replacement as your fall back solution. $0.02 of course, and as per my caveat- my bad if I have misunderstood.
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Post by b4nj0 on Oct 8, 2022 12:31:41 GMT -5
In the 1970s when I actually WAS in a "band"(!) the Wishbone Ash track "Blowing Free" was the only worked out number we had, the rest was just three chords and the wig out truth.
In that video, it looks like Laurie Wisefield on guitar. Andy Powell always played a Flying V. Laurie Wisefield replaced Ted Turner on "second" guitar. Martin Turner was holding down the low end. I can't remember who the drummer was. Ted Turner left the band just as it was peaking, allegedly (according to the NME or the Melody Maker) to go in search of the pyramids. Such was the BS put about by music hacks in the 1970s. I imagine it would be trivial to find out what happened to him and where he is now. Ted and Martin Turner were not brothers.
Laurie Wisefield came from the band "Home" that had two albums, "Pause For a Hoarse Horse" (which was MEH) and later "The Alchemist" which at the time I liked so much I bought a second copy because I wore one out. About ten years ago I sourced it on CD too and played it once or twice ... go figure. About the same time, SWMBO bought me a Wishbone Ash compilation on CD. I don't know why, and moreover I don't even think I even got to the end of it. It sat on the shelf collecting dust and I eventually threw it in the trash. I know it's subjective but for myself I realised they were a zeitgeist and humanity had moved on. I still have Argus, Live Dates and posdibly a third vinyl platter of theirs under the stairs. Bear in kind that Andy Powell was always very much a "my way or the highway" figure in Wishbone Ash, and by all (printed ...) accounts backed it up with a less than salubrious attitude towards fellow members both past and present. I guess there's a reason why he's the only one left flogging the nag.
I saw Wishbone Ash in the 1970s, I suppose it was at the Finsbury Park Astoria, known better at that juncture as "The Rainbow". A school mate worshipped them and organised the trip (I levered him into that band I was in for a jam on the QT because he played bass and he knew Blowing Free like the back of his hand.)
Thanks for reviving some long suppressed memories.
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Post by b4nj0 on Oct 7, 2022 10:05:32 GMT -5
Yep. Top drawer. Rick Beato has interviewed Tim in the past year or thereabouts which is worth tracking down. Rick's is a pretty good YT channel, and he's no slouch on keys as well as guit fiddle in addition to a copper-bottomed knowledge of theory. I have 'The Beato Book" and it is way over my pay grade.
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Post by b4nj0 on Oct 5, 2022 3:32:49 GMT -5
Ah yes- the "C" word- must be culture. That means Sir Les Patterson, no contest. My first reaction to the OP was Kevin Wilson, but then the Tom Selleck look-a-like character climbing out of the swimming pool in "Don's Party" sprang to mind.
I've never been much of a royalist, but I always held The Queen with utmost respect given how she conducted herself and her office. Never having known any different, I find it strange now to have a male as head of (my) state, and somewhat ridiculously I'd rather EIIR remained on the currency.
I wonder what the response would be if the British were canvassed on what they'd like to see on the Nuggets and folding green beer tokens? Another Boaty McBoatface sans doubt? With the benefit of that hindsight, I reckon this needs to be a "you'll get what you're given" exercise, crikey we've had enough practice with that over here.
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Post by b4nj0 on Sept 28, 2022 16:25:35 GMT -5
You must be referring to "Feldgarbe" SG
;<D
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Post by b4nj0 on Sept 12, 2022 10:23:03 GMT -5
Nuevo NASA (as opposed to Viejo NASA, which was extant prior to Congress exerting its will over the purse strings, no doubt quite rightly.)
I too am fascinated with all things space related, and have the repeater frequencies programmed cross band in my dual band transceiver. I've lost count of the hours I've spent addictively craning my neck up at The I.S.S. fueled by NASA's timely location-centric heads-up eMails.
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 21, 2022 3:39:39 GMT -5
Ah, righteousness and humidity- a deadly cocktail.
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 18, 2022 6:56:59 GMT -5
Existentialism ...
"What's the sound of one hand clapping?"
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 17, 2022 9:54:27 GMT -5
I was not pointing a finger at the cable and I don't think newey was either, I was just highlighting an instance where it turned out to be a cable issue for me, and I didn't think AKG as microphone manufacturers would actually ship product with such an issue. With it plugged in and switched on, run your fingers along the cable to see whether that generates any noise. I would hate for you to rock up to a respected manufacturer and claim cable noise purely because some commentators on a forum suggested it! It's just something to exclude while trying to track down the culprit.
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 17, 2022 7:26:15 GMT -5
I have an AKG WMS40 wireless system. It had a crackly cable, so after buying an aftermarket cable from a large south American river which was wired incorrectly(!) and returned, I made my own from Klotz cable and Neutrik connectors. Fixed.
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 14, 2022 2:41:23 GMT -5
Well it crackles through my 'phone 'speakers too unreg, but like buzzing when you're not touching that's far from uncommon. That said, it appears to be good enough to warrant having a go myself. I have a colleague on another forum who us about to embark on the same trail. I think I'll shoulder my pack and join him after hearing that clip because I have no overdrives or distortions that sound similar. Cheers for the soundfile, I wish I was as good providing the same upon request!
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 13, 2022 6:52:23 GMT -5
unreg; your description of what you have done to "decouple" the incoming insulated DC connector battery positive terminal (read literally ...) seems perfect to me. I still think that the case should be connected to the DC ground tag at the point of entry into the enclosure which would have been a given if a more sensible (in my opinion) centre positive supply was used. Just be certain that none of the various rail voltages appear on the case by way of the PCB mounting system. I am reasonably sure that this will be fine, but I hate offering my take on things without the project in front of me, and any self-appointed advisor has to be cognisant of how advice would sound to anyone else. This is why I am a useless teacher! As I wrote previously, your noise issue appeared to have been largely addressed. The so-called "Pin 1 problem" refers to the issue of ground loops in balanced audio distribution systems, but ground loops can and do rear their ugly heads juat as regularly in unbalanced systems such as this too. If as you say the noise goes away when you touch the strings that is a very familiar experience to me and many others, and I would say that your totally reasonable search for audio nirvana should now follow the holy grail search that the rest of us are all on, because I reckon your Klon clone is by now delivering the best you can expect. What does it sound like though? Is it worth the effort? I'm interested for myself, even though I tend to give distorted sounds the swerve in old(er!) age. でつ e&oe ...
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 7, 2022 10:38:25 GMT -5
The resistor must be intended to counteract aluminium's positive coefficient of expansion.
I suppose I'd better get me coat then?
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 5, 2022 13:34:44 GMT -5
@cyn1, Zebrawood might work for a pickguard because you have those distinct dark grain lines running through it. Here's my 'bird for a taste: But as newey suggested: Which is a Warmoth celluloid guard on a Schecter one piece Koa body/Warmoth neck. The Warmoth guard is very slightly "brown" tinted. Maybe something a little less flamable though ... Fess up time; the attentive might spot the error I made in this thread (that frets initiated about opinions on a Schaller bridge) when I wrote that this guitar had a Callaham bridge? It's actually a Wilkinson, and the Callaham is on my '73 Strat. Advancing years and a surfeit of guit fiddles I guess? Choices choices! でつ e&oe ...
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 4, 2022 2:00:28 GMT -5
@yogi B, no I don't disagree, I'm guilty of thinking of everything in RF terms and especially VHF and up which clearly is nonsense for this application. That said, Neutrik (at least) have redesigned their bulkhead mounted XLR sockets to provide a solution to the "PIN 1" problem, so short is a good maxim in general terms.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 31, 2022 14:01:43 GMT -5
Another thumbs-up for Callaham. I have one on a Schecter/Warmoth with SSL1s. It's wired Mike Richardson. The Callaham bridge is a fine bit of engineering compared with the Fender and its many clones, but the main reason was because they do a narrow string spacing variant and I've always struggled keeping the unwound "E" on the fretboard. Also consider the various Wilkinson takes on a Leo bridge, but go for the premium range rather than the wallet friendly ones that also sport the Wilkinson logo. I have three of those and they're easily as good as Callaham but perhaps not quite as "original" in appearance. Trev Wilkinson was responsible for some pretty good hardware and left brain spot-on designs. See how extraordinarily simple he made perfectly functioning "locking" machine heads for one example. I have two 1980s Leo Trem bridges here some place that the Wilkinson and Callaham replaced. I don't see them getting any action anytime soon unless some magic mojo decides that they will become worth selling.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 30, 2022 4:37:13 GMT -5
Yeah that was kind of what I was intimating and @tradg is not alone on here! I only "know" some of these "things" because of other interests unrelated to guitar wiring, and although I make lots of electrical (and electronic things- there IS a distinction!) here at home, @tradg "walks the walk too" so to speak.
"Decouple" is a term used to describe bleeding off unwanted higher frequencies on a signal by taking advantage of the capacitor's ability to pass them to so-called "ground" while isolating the DC component, kind of like selectively assisting entropy! Basically, we are using a capacitor in this instance as a filter. Hence inside your Klon clone we can connect between live and "ground" safely FOR AC using a capacitor <of an appropriate voltage rating> while the wanted DC is unaffected. The unwanted AC (noise) sees a potential divider and takes the "easier" route to "ground" where it comes to an abrupt halt. Theoretically.
We could just as easily "Couple" (as distinct from Decouple) those high frequencies TO the next stage in (eg) an amplifier thereby blocking any DC component present, and that as interstage Coupling is common practice too (as @tradg knows). Again it is using the capacitor's characteristics as a filter. It only needs to get complicated (needing equations for theoretical objectivity) if you start to query how high is high (and I'm guessing you're wondering about that ...) This is why I began with the statement "Rule of thumb" because those values are a time proven good starting point for us tinkerers, but they are not set in stone.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 29, 2022 15:03:37 GMT -5
Rule of thumb for me would be a 470nF to 1uF from incoming socket live down to case. Since it's on a DC line there is no *toan* issue from introducing such capacitance. You may need a little ring solder tag under the insulated socket's retaining nut otherwise connection to the diecast case would maybe be problematic. I built a compressor from a kit more than ten years ago now (The ParaNormal) and writing this has prompted me to revisit that wiring! A disc ceramic capacitor would be fine and I tend to err on the side of higher voltage rated examples because the legs are more stable. If the legs are short enough (and they should be!) sleeving won't be necessary. Really really don't short +ive rail to "ground" directly anywhere, especially directly as a result of me assuming that you understand what I mean with throwaway comments like "decouple". Since you already have the noise thing sorted, what I suggested while good practice is not mandatory, but may prevent other problems arising in other locations or use cases, or as a result of some other interference cropping up close to or inside your home. Finally, there are much better informed contributors on here than myself, just sayin'!
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 29, 2022 4:10:58 GMT -5
Very late to this party. I have read through both in the Proboards Android app and now using a web browser too, but there's a lot to take in and digest.
In the photo of the internals, I see an insulated DC socket. The Klon schematic shows the "ground" connection immediately after the voltage enters the enclosure, but the internals photo seems to show the "ground" lead heading off to the PCB, connection to the case then being via the PCB and the input output sockets. This is a classic "Pin-1 problem" (google) I'm guessing this is why an insulated DC socket is used because no one wants rail voltage on the case, but whomsoever it was started the habit of centre ground coaxial ought to be on here defending his or her brainphart. Although happily the noise issue seems to have largely gone away, I would still short the centre "ground" to the case really close to the point of entry inside the case with insulated wire, and while I'm at it I'd decouple the rail voltage to the same point inside the case, again sleeving the capacitor's legs.
Also, just a thought- a multimeter will of course show the battery or cell voltage and I do it all the time, but whenever I do, in the back of my mind is the certain knowledge that it tells me zilch about the battery or cell under load which is where we actually expect it to perform ... those cutesy pads on Duracells that you touch to read the state of charge are in effect using skin/body resistance to gauge the cell's capacity under load.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 23, 2022 4:16:43 GMT -5
newey: Sure the bridge ground doesn't carry any signal, but it could be shorting to someplace that does, especially if it wanders around a bit to allow a little slack for manoeuvre. Am I the only one who crimps on a ring terminal and attaches the string ground under one of the spring "claw" attachment screws? So much easier than trying to solder to the claw. frets: sumgai is correct about your contributions, the much missed karma points were made for folks like you C. でつ e&oe ...
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 22, 2022 3:10:06 GMT -5
I went to bed in my Police "Tee" shirt last night and woke up walking on the moon.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 22, 2022 3:04:37 GMT -5
Since you have to wire a Leo-type with the pickguard off the guitar, did you tap test the pups on the bench and now it's in the guitar you have this manifest C? As a quick first step, do you think it's worth trying disconnecting the bridge ground wire? I suspect you have a short to "ground" somewhere and the process of assembly is introducing it.
Edit: I had this happen once with the simplest of single PUP wiring when I changed a hummer to a P90. The cause turned out to be that the guitar's manufacturer had used an amp type input socket for the guitar's output and the third contact was hidden behind timber in the snug rout, I had wired to the switching tab on the socket shorting the output to deck. That had me beat for ages because I visually assumed that the "simple" socket wiring had to be correct. Another gotcha was screening my 1973 USA Fender Strat and the tip of the plug was touching the football rout screening. That had me foxed for a while too.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 14, 2022 3:19:45 GMT -5
From my perspective this is a gross over simplification. Sure the string is "in tune", but then play (eg) an "E" chord up at the dusty end. Unless the bridge saddle(s) have been used to set the intonation, it's going to sound very angry indeed. Just ask pretty much any 12 string acoustic player or resonator player. Actually, getting closer to some ideal of "perfect" involves nut compensation too, and that in turn assumes optimum nut slot heights. Note that I did say "closer" ...
Without some attempt at intonation, cranking up to a tuner will see one first position chord (maybe) sounding sweet, but another not so sweet. Even if some acceptable degree of intonation is achieved, it all goes out of the window if you then retune to (say) an open tuning.
I have a mnemonic of my own design, I call it the *F* Word hint.
(Compared to the first harmonic) "If the 12th *F*retted note sounds *F*lat you have to *F*oreshorten the string" (hence move the saddle towards the nut.)
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 10, 2022 9:15:03 GMT -5
I guess that's why I was an employee rather than an employer. Tried both but the latter did not sit well with me. Harsh or not, when the "customer" inevitably finds out you were talking sense all along, you may garner long term business and a rep. for putting service before profit. Short term loss with longer term gain.
FWIW and to avoid continuing to tread on gumbo's toes, I wouldn't wrap pickups in copper tape for pretty much the same reason that I wouldn't use shielded (coaxial) wiring.
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 10, 2022 1:30:13 GMT -5
Maybe adopt something along the lines of "It has cost you nothing for my advice that it won't achieve the result you're looking for, perhaps you could use the money you've just saved to put towards paying someone else to carry out the work for you."
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 2, 2022 16:19:45 GMT -5
Tack cloth. It works a treat. It feels very slightly sticky but it's not sticky if you see what I mean. I don't know what it's called over your side. I learned that trick from the paint shop in the (loosely) aerospace interiors manufactory when I was still working. Compressed airline blowers were banned and in any event what comes up goes down and dust is no exception. If I put down a coffee in that place, within two minutes several dust motes would settle on the surface of the beverage, and yet we still drank it! So far as shooting goes, I suspend the body or neck in my garden shed on a bit of cord so I can rotate it readily and have at it with a rattle can. It's far from ideal and I've had to learn to include dust in the process, but I get results that match my tempered expectations with so little equipment. The last thing I did was rattle can a nitro finish, first tinted and then plain on a Warmoth neck. Warmoth absolve themselves of any warranty unless the part is finished, and last I knew they wouldn't accept an oiled finish either.
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Post by b4nj0 on May 16, 2022 6:54:19 GMT -5
I went to bed in my Miles Davis Tee shirt last night ...
So what?
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