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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 28, 2015 16:22:01 GMT -5
I could could I incorporate 2 500K push/pulls if needed in master volume and tone positions, like you were saying to reverse the winding direction of the dummy possibly. The pots that came with the guitar were all 500k log mini pots, the only issue I had with it was the hum. 500K should give me some cool sounds with the series connections as well, with the high range clarity from the larger resistance. (Does this high range clarity when increasing resistance apply for both tone and volume controls?)
I like your idea of putting a resistor (in series?) with the dummy coil to increase the impedance to match the other pups(if that is what you were suggesting when you said bypass". I'd have to find the formula and try to get it close to match, unless I do pickup surgery (which could end badly when unwrapping the delicate wire)
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 27, 2015 17:36:23 GMT -5
Resistance values (in K Ohms)
(Standard Squier Pups) Neck & Middle: 3.61 Bridge: 3.63
(Washburn Zebra Bridge Black Bobbin) Dummy: 4.7
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 27, 2015 14:19:40 GMT -5
I dont plan on running the passives with the ghost preamp, but if that is possible I would consider it. possibly with the installation of this. (but I prefer not to spend money, when possible) www.premierguitar.com/articles/Seymour_Duncan_Introduces_Blackouts_Modular_Preamp_to_Make_Any_Pickup_Activeand here is a forum with some interesting diagrams based on this premise, david schuab has some good info here: music-electronics-forum.com/t2358/Essentially, all an active pup is, is a passive pup (with a lower impedance) and a buffer or "amplifier" circuit added, but I have never done this, so it might be best to stick with the passives, and the 9v for the ghost. I see what you mean by there not being enough space on the switch for anti-him circuits, so like mentioned in the above forum, there could be a way to tie an active circuit to the output jack or master volume, causing similar effects like an active system. I will install a push/pull if necessary like we were talking about to engage the dummy. I have already modded one 250k pot to be no load, but you were saying that both tone controls need to be no load? I already have 2 500k log taper push pull pots left over from my super 7 scheme which are available. But like you said, modding these to be no load might be tricky, but ive never tried so I could be wrong. What do each of the values for the 3 pots need to be based on your recommendation? Vol:500K(push pull) Tone: 250K(No Load) Blend: 250K (no load)? Also, have treble bleed circuits ready to wire from the last project as well. The active circuit sounds like it would be a great idea, but like you said, after we get all of this mess sorted, then add it to the circuit at the end. Very interested in this idea. I cant thank you enough for this. Not a lot of people would be willing to sit down build an idea from the ground up, so happy to see there's people like you that are kind enough to help
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 24, 2015 18:56:45 GMT -5
200 dollars for a low impedance coil assembly sounds kind of ridiculous to me, which is why I was fiddling with the dummy coil idea. If there is any way we can come up with a design to incorporate the active ground circuit, that would be amazing. I could possibly start another thread on this exact topic to get some help from the awesome people here. If not, I will purchase a push push 250k pot to switch on the dummy coil, though I might place it in the tone position, rather than volume. As the volume will get used quite a bit compared. and there's no way to get the middle to be hum-free? I know I dont use it much, but it would still be nice to say all positions are hum-free. thanks again for putting up with my ignorance to some of these things, I'm starting to feel like the dummy here, but I'm learning a ton! music-electronics-forum.com/t26986/don't know if this helps, but it was mentioning combining active and passive circuits with a dummy coil.
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 24, 2015 16:35:39 GMT -5
I plan to install a Peizo Ghost System to replace my current saddles, and I will be incorporating a 9v battery in the back cavity where the springs usually are (I will be blocking the trem), so is there any way I can use this active preamp circuit to eliminate hum?
My main concern with this strat is going to be the dreaded hum that most (stock) strats get in single coil positions, and I haven't played strats for the longest time because of this. It drives me crazy! It blows my mind how many people put up with it saying "you can expect some hum, as EMI surrounds us, try moving around and stay still in the sweet spot"
I understand now that the dummy coil can actually cause more noise depending on the selected pickup, but I don't really want to add any switches (other than possibly a push-push/pull) for looks, but I do want as little of that 60 cycle buzz as possible. I have shielded the previously shielded cavity with 3 more coats of conductive paint, and i will be lining the inside cavities with conductive adhesive copper tape as well. I am either wrapping the coils in copper, or lining the inside of the pickup cover. I plan to add a grounded baseplate to each pickup (thickest steel one on the bridge, like old teles, and thinner ones to the M and N pups) for maximum shielding and tonal reasons.
My understanding is that the N3 or noisless pickups available through fender have a stacked dummy coil for each pickup, so would it be possible to do the same with three dummy coils, one dedicated to each pup?
If there are any other ways to quiet this thing (all I have found is shielding, dummy coils/humbuckers/RWRP, proper grounds, and active circuits) please let me know. I really don't want any hum on any audio tracks I record with it, and turning the noise filter up kills the recording tone.
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 24, 2015 5:04:15 GMT -5
just 1/2 of a humbucker, with magnets and pole pieces removed. Wrapped in electrical and copper tape that is grounded. 3 leads coming off total, positive, negative and ground. it was the adjustable side, so I have reason to believe it is NW/NP
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 24, 2015 4:13:35 GMT -5
I'll be keeping an eye out for the diagram to get started, I have ordered the Super Switch online, and am waiting on delivery, so no rush.
Could you tell me where to connect the leads of the dummy coil to the Super Switch (or show it in the diagram) so I get Hum cancelling in every position?
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 24, 2015 0:12:23 GMT -5
I understand now that I had it backwards, as the arrows represent rolling the blend pot to 0, rather than 10 like I was saying, so 1 and 5 were backwards. And I'm fine with position 2 and 4 to blend to just middle as well. It looks perfect.
I have modified a 250k pot to be no Load by scraping some conductive strip away at position ten (when fully rolled on), which should work right?
also, if you could draw a wiring schematic for me to follow, that would be awesome!
Thanks so much for all of the help
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 23, 2015 17:22:19 GMT -5
This way you get 5 sounds from the 5 way no matter where the blend pot is set. I see what you mean now, I think I would prefer 2 and 4 to both blend to just Middle. Though I don't see Myself using the middle too much, it will be nice to dial back the series volume to just the middle. Probably a stupid question, and Ignore it if it is, but would it be possible in positions 2 and 4 to blend one pickup to another, so in pos.2 blend the Middle to neck in series with the bridge, and in pos. 4 Blend the Middle to bridge in parallel with the neck, giving me B+N and BxN? and allowing the 3rd position to blend to just middle (blending out the bridge and neck) giving me a total of 10 positions? to be clear: 1)B+M -> B 2)BxM -> BxN 3)(B+N)xM -> M 4)NxM -> B+N5)N+M -> N if that is impossible I will go with what I said first, 2 and 4 blending to just middle. Thank you
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 23, 2015 16:43:33 GMT -5
The 3 series settings in positions 2, 3 and 4 can be wired to blend either to M alone or to B and or N. As shown. B+M will blend down to B, (B+N)x M with blend to B+N and NxM will blend to M. This way you get 5 sounds from the 5 way no matter where the blend pot is set. So, basically I will have 2 positions (pos. 2 and pos. 4) that are wired in Series, but blend down to just the Middle? so.. pos. blends to on 10 1) B+M ---> B (Blends Middle out) 2) BxM ---> M (Blends Bridge out) 3) (B+N)xM --> B+N (Blends Middle out) 4) NxM ---> M (Blends Neck out) 5) N+M ---> N (Blends Middle out) a total of 9 tones with blending in between?
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 22, 2015 17:32:04 GMT -5
That sounds perfect, with the middle position bringing in the middle pup in series with neck and bridge, I'm interested to hear the sound. If you can't figure out how to incorporate that into my blender wiring, just draw it however you think will be best. Again, do it on your time, there's no hurry on my end.
Thank you for your time!
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 22, 2015 16:48:43 GMT -5
Also, for position 3 (middle) I really want to have the Tele sound (Bridge/Neck), and the ability to bring in the middle in parallel so all 3
pups are selected, not starting with just middle and bringing them in because that removes 2 sounds that I really love.
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 22, 2015 16:33:16 GMT -5
Absolutely, No rush or worries! Don't spend too much time on me, just a sketch will get me flinging solder in no time, as my title suggests hahaa.
Thanks so much for the help. Im just sick of the conventional strat wiring, and looking to get some more tones than just 5. but I'm pulling my hair out drawing lines on this paper, with no Idea if they'd work or not.
Anything I can do for you, just let me know.
thanks again.
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 22, 2015 16:14:58 GMT -5
That setup sounds perfect! Thanks as always for the quick response JohnH, you are a true wiring wizard, I can't thank you enough for being so open and ready to help us out.
A little backwards from what I was thinking, but I understand why the blending has to work that way. I will run out and buy a super switch today, but I have 0 experience working with them, so I will definitely need some type of schem. or diagram to work off of. I can just modify and scrape a small amount of conductive strip from the inside of the 250k pots I have already to create a no load or true bypass pot correct?
If it's not too much to ask, I could really use a diagram to work off of. I have been trying to create my own, but I get frustrated from all of the moving parts, and I'm oblivious how to wire 1 pot to control all of the things I am trying to accomplish, especially the series connections. Also, with the super switch, I would still be connecting my dummy coil between the vol pot and switch correct?
so to clarify: rolling 0 to 10 Pos. 1) Bridge/Middle in parallel (blending to just Bridge) Pos. 2) Middle (blending Bridge in Series) Pos. 3) Middle (Blending Neck/Bridge in parallel) Pos. 4) Middle (Blending Neck in Series) Pos. 5) Neck/Middle in parallel (Blending to just Neck)
again, Thank you!
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Post by kaustinwright on Jul 22, 2015 13:34:34 GMT -5
Hey Guys, I wanted to thank everyone in this community for helping me out with my Super 7 modifications, the guitar turned out great with all of its switching power!
I have a new project, a strat I plan on wiring with a dummy coil and Blender mod. Using the Middle pickup (or bottom) tone control, to now act as a blender to bring the middle pickup in to the circuit, and the other 2 knobs acting as master volume and tone. Although I do want a position for series connections between the bridge/middle and neck/middle positions in my switch, so I can get some pseudo-hum sounds.
So is it possible to create a scheme with these 5 positions?
pos. 1) Bridge (with option to blend in middle p'up) pos. 2) Bypass blender with middle and bridge in series pos. 3) Neck and Bridge (with option to blend in middle p'up) pos. 4) bypass blender with middle and neck in series pos. 5) Neck (with option to blend in middle p'up)
I never use the Middle P'up, only in conjunction with the others, so I have removed it from the circuit (read p.s.). Any help with this circuit, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Not sure if this sounds ridiculous, but i would like to incorporate the blender knob in positions 2 and 4, possibly acting to blend the neck (pos. 4) or bridge (pos. 2) pickup out of the circuit, just leaving MIDDLE by itself when fully rolled back. that way I still have the middle p'up available, and can bring the volume down of one coil if the series connection proves to be too loud, without using the master (and sacrificing tone) while playing live.
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 29, 2015 13:44:25 GMT -5
Wolf, when I get this beast done I'll Email you some pics of the guitar and inside wiring, and I'd be honored for you to post them to 1728.org. That is, if I don't have a nervous breakdown trying to fit all of this in an Ibanez Saber! I would have intalled super 7 switching without altering the appearance of my guitar (other than 1 vol control, which I planned on installing anyway), and I'd love to show people the possibilities with push/pulls.
Thanks again to everyone, especially Wolf and John H!
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 28, 2015 16:01:51 GMT -5
The parts came in, and I'm not sure how to wire the other side yet.
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 24, 2015 17:39:24 GMT -5
I have attached a photo with your advice of changing the positive from pup directly to pot. Please let me know if this is correct. Yes, thank you for taking the time to check my diagram, I have 2 Duncan pickups, which is the main reason I decided to re-draw, based on my pups' color code. A diagram of the other side of the dpdt would be awesome, no rush though, I'm still waiting for parts to come all the way from China Attachments:
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 23, 2015 19:05:41 GMT -5
I will consider drilling a hole for the phase switch, why not right?? but I will use wolf's diagram to wire the first run, and I'm using push/pulls for the center switches, so I will inevitably have the dpdt that is necessary for your mod. As for using the other side of the switch, I'm not sure how to wire the dpdt as you were suggesting to cause the hot lead to be fully disconnected. Could you possibly elaborate or create a diagram that demonstrates how to do this? also, i created my own diagram to work from, I will attach it and if anyone can tell me if it's correct that would be awesome. THANK YOU GUYS FOR ALL OF THE HELP! Attachments:
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 23, 2015 12:49:25 GMT -5
As for the bridge portion of the diagram, when adding a pot to the circled portion, should I jump off of the positive lead from the pickup to the pot (as shown), or use the positive lead itself going to the pot and then to the 2 switches after the level is affected. (apologies for the poor quality, and ignore the bottom portion of the crappy paint program diagram) Attachments:
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 23, 2015 12:21:48 GMT -5
Also, I'm not sure how to wire in the tone pot based on the diagram.
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 23, 2015 12:18:27 GMT -5
As you mentioned, there may be problems with hum and other unexpected noise differences with all of the wiring going on, how can I avoid this before I begin soldering? I do plan to shield with the conductive paint method, but I worry there will be unusable combinations, defeating the purpose of the mod. (basically, are there any combinations that I should think about removing, or modifying in order to be more practical and useful) as i have found there may be issues with multiple treble bleeds.
In wiring the treble bleed circuit, would there be any differences in wiring the leads to the pot (outer and center lug) than wiring directly to the switch? Also, would it be worth it to have a switch controlling modern/50's wiring to get rid of some of the low end or a phase switch as suggested by the SS design? (That is If I can find the room for one)
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 20, 2015 13:06:09 GMT -5
I have also completed half of a wiring diagram that I believe is what JohnH was proposing. Note the colors are dimarzio, and the bridge pickup has not been completed yet Attachments:
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Post by kaustinwright on Apr 20, 2015 12:18:37 GMT -5
Hello, I am the one who sent the initial Email to Wolf in order to gain more control of the circuit and tonal possibilities that the Super Seven Scheme has. Thank you guys for the quick help, and thanks to wolf for being kind enough to create this thread for me. I am planning to install super seven (more like super 6 without the phase switch) into an Ibanez Saber that I am currently customizing. There is a small square hole routed in the top of the guitar where a 5 way blade switch is normally located. I plan to put 4 mini mini switches in, along with a custom plate to mount them, in order to control the coils "AB and CD"(as shown in the diagram). As for the other 2 switches (I do not plan to add a phase switch to the circuit, as room on my guitar prohibits this without drilling) I plan to use 2 push/pull 500K audio pots as the "neck pickup and bridge pickup" switches, also controlling the volume of the respective (full) pickups. I will be installing a 1nF and 150K resistor in parallel as suggested on each pot. I will have to drill a hole in between the current single volume/single tone design to add this other push/pull volume control for the bridge pup. Although at this point with JohnH's advice, I am slightly confused as to which leads to use. You stated connect the volumes where the phase switch location is between red and green leads (for dimarzio wiring). Though "Red/Green coming from the pickups are the outer volume lug connections, the ongoing red connection comes from the volume centre lug." confused me a bit. So Green and Red to oudside lugs and the output lead comes from the middle lug to the outside terminal of the respective pickup switch which then connects directly to a tone control from that terminal? So in both cases, neck and bridge, there is no ground connection to the volume pot casing, if so you mentioned the green wire acting as a ground and "floating in series" what does this mean? As for the connections that cause the coil to be disconnected at one end but still hanging from hot, I'm not sure the exact combinations you're talking about, but if there is any unwanted buzz in those positions then are you insisting it may not be wise to use this particular scheme? If you think I should go ahead with it then I would be glad to share my results in the future. Also, How do I wire the Master tone to both volume controls? Thanks again! Attachments:
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