Repairing my old Blade RH-4 electronics

[150cdm]

Hello,

English is not my language at all (I'm french), I'll try to do my best!

One month ago, I got back my youth guitar, a Blade RH-4 from the nineties, which has been asleep in a basement for nearly twenty years.

I loved this guitar, I played several hundred concerts with her, and have done a lot of recordings (as an amateur).

Great guitar, great sound, great "lutherie" (I don't have the translation).

So I decided to bring her back to life!

I disassembled her, cleaned every part, changed strings, and so on.

It sounds great, sustain is impressive, the neck is the best I have ever played (I owned a lot of other guitars since, Les Paul, Strat, Tele, PRS...)

But the electronic/wiring is broken.

The bridge pickup (that I replaced for a stacked Di Marzio humbucker when I was young) doesn't work anymore.

The preamp doesn't work either. Not a problem for me: I didn't like this feature, and never used it.

Some weldings seem to be torned.

So I want to try to repair this honorable guitar myself.

I don't know much in electronics, I just bought a soldering iron, and here I am!

Do you think I can repair her myself?

With the active preamp, the bridge pickup replacement (with a push-pull split on the tone pot), it is not a traditionnal wiring, obviously.

Thanks for your advices, bye,

Vincent

[cynical1]

Nov 2, 2022 22:52:32 GMT -5 150cdm said:

...English is not my language at all (I'm french), I'll try to do my best!

It looks significantly better than my French...and Welcome to the Nutz House.

One month ago, I got back my youth guitar, a Blade RH-4 from the nineties, which has been asleep in a basement for nearly twenty years...

Without seeing it, my first thought is corrosion. Does the VSC board have white build-up on any of the solder joints? I had a Fernandes sustainer guitar I picked up cheap where the sustainer board suffered from this. This was a guitar around 20 years old that had not been kept in a controlled environment for a good deal of that time.

Once the board goes, the output follows.

The bridge pickup (that I replaced for a stacked Di Marzio humbucker when I was young) doesn't work anymore.

I probably won't be the last to ask you this, but when you say "doesn't work", do you mean that there is no output when switched to ON, or is it dead when you put a meter to it?

The preamp doesn't work either. Not a problem for me: I didn't like this feature, and never used it.

I don't know how your preamp is built, but from my experience, the signal still must pass through it, even in by-pass mode. Just like the Fernandes sustainer board, even if I'm not using the sustainer, the signal still must leave the preamp board to get to the jack output.

For reference, is this what your guitar has:

Some weldings seem to be torned.

Yeah, your problem may just be that simple... Blade still appears to be selling the Variable Spectrum Control, if you want to keep it as it was originally. It's 89.00CHF, so feel free to factor in how much you could do with that money if you decided to pull all the original wiring and start from scratch with a passive setup.

So I want to try to repair this honorable guitar myself.

A quick look on Reverb puts these models in the $1500.00-$2000.00 USD range for your vintage. Yeah, I'd fix it, too.

I don't know much in electronics, I just bought a soldering iron, and here I am!

You appear to have all the qualifications of a legitimate Nut.

Do you think I can repair her myself?

We can definitely help you get output from your guitar.   More Nutz will be by soon with more questions.  I'm typically just the wood butcher around here.

Happy Trails -

Cynical1

[newey]

150cdm-

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

I had no idea what a "Blade RH-4" was, I had never seen or heard of that brand in the US. Looks like a nice guitar. If yours is as per the pictures on their website, then, this is a Strat-type guitar with 2 single-coil pickups and a bridge humbucker, single volume and tone controls, an active preamp and a regular 5-way pickup selector?

Do you think I can repair her myself?

Yes, you can. You will need some basic tools and some basic skills.

Some weldings seem to be torned

This is the only part of your post where the translation seems to have failed. But I take you to mean that some of the solder connections are broken.

Let's start with the basics. At a bare minimum, you will need the soldering iron you bought, and electrical (not plumbing) solder, and it will be useful to have a device to remove the old solder from the existing connections (a device we call a "solder sucker" is one type). It will also be useful, but not strictly necessary, to have a multimeter to test things.

If some connections have failed, and given that the guitar has just been sitting without anyone going inside the wiring, the failed connections are due to simple aging. If some have failed already, expect that the others will soon also fail. So plan on a complete rewiring of all the connections. Because you don't care for the preamp. eliminating that will simplify things considerably. How is that turned on and off?

I said you would need some basic skills, one of these is soldering. Are you experienced at all with soldering? If not, practice a bit to get comfortable with it before you dive into repairing the guitar. Find some old piece of electonics like an old radio (or just its components) and practice desoldering and resoldering the connections. There are probably dozens of YouTube videos you can consult for tips and techniques.

If the humbucker is not working, are one or more of its wires disconnected? If so, it's probably just a wiring issue and it just needs to be properly reconnected. If it looks to be still connected, it might still be a wiring issue, just one not visible to the naked eye, but it might also mean an internal defect in the pickup, meaning the pickup would have to be replaced (it might be repairable, but that's a higher level of skill needed to effect a repair). You didn't say whether you planned on keeping that pickup or not. If you want to keep it, a multimeter would be needed to test it, unless, as I said, it is obviously disconnected. If you plan to replace it anyway, then no need to test it.

With the active preamp, the bridge pickup replacement (with a push-pull split on the tone pot), it is not a traditionnal wiring, obviously.

If you are going to get rid of the active preamp, things are simplified. Does it already have a push/pull to split the bridge or are you wanting to add that?

Some well-focused photos of the existing wiring will help us help you, as will answers to the questions above (sorry for all the questions!)

Also, you said that you had "cleaned everything". With older guitars that have been sitting for a while, usually the pots get dirty inside and sound "scratchy" when you rotate them. If you did not already do so, get some spray-on electronics cleaner and try to spray the insides of the pots. Rotate the shaft, respray it a few tiumes. The other option would be to just replace the existing pots, they are not too expensive.

If the preamp is to be eliminated, then what you are wanting is a HSS Strat with a push/pull to split the bridge humbucker, with single volume and tone controls, correct? If so, that's not too tough to do, we should be able to get you there.

EDIT: cynical1 beat me to the punch while I was typing. I was assuming eliminating the preamp, but you may want to consider the value of this, and keeping the wiring as original.

[150cdm]

Welcome to the Nutz House

Thank you.

Without seeing it, my first thought is corrosion. Does the VSC board have white build-up on any of the solder joints? I had a Fernandes sustainer guitar I picked up cheap where the sustainer board suffered from this. This was a guitar around 20 years old that had not been kept in a controlled environment for a good deal of that time.

No, there is no corrosion at all. The basement where she rested is clean, dry and tempered. Apart from electronics, she is clean.

And here is why the electronics is broken: when I bought her (second hand) in, I think, 1990, I loved her, but I didn't like the mirror pickgard.

So I asked my brother, who is a graphic designer, to create a new design for me, on paper, then bought a sheet of Plexiglas, and built a replacement one!

But this new pickgard was not strong (thick) enough, and broke in several places. The tone pot was hanging when I got her back one month ago! The inside electronics didn't like this treatment at all!




Luckily, I found back the original mirror pickgard last week. So I sanded the mirror layer, then painted the back in white. No more mirror, just a plain chocolate color, some scratches, but it is OK for me!



I probably won't be the last to ask you this, but when you say "doesn't work", do you mean that there is no output when switched to ON


Yes I mean there is no output from this pickup when switched on, on the last two positions of the pickup selector. 4th position: only the middle pickup is heard, same sound as 3rd position. 5th position: no sound at all.

To have signal from the output jack, I have to set the preamp micro switch to its middle position, which is kind of a bypass. On the two ther positions: no output at all (which is logical, since there is no battery to power up the preamp).

or is it dead when you put a meter to it?

I can't say, I don't own a meter!

Blade still appears to be selling the Variable Spectrum Control, if you want to keep it as it was originally. It's 89.00CHF, so feel free to factor in how much you could do with that money if you decided to pull all the original wiring and start from scratch with a passive setup.

I never used the preamp, and I won't! I never liked the sound of it, too bright, artificial and agressive for my ears. And, the passive setup is very good, so I think this is completely useless for me.
If it is possible to take it of from my guitar, I'm OK to give it to whoever wants it.

You appear to have all the qualifications of a legitimate Nut.

Thank you again!

Vincent

[150cdm]

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

Thank you!

I had no idea what a "Blade RH-4" was, I had never seen or heard of that brand in the US. Looks like a nice guitar. If yours is as per the pictures on their website, then, this is a Strat-type guitar with 2 single-coil pickups and a bridge humbucker, single volume and tone controls, an active preamp and a regular 5-way pickup selector?

Yes, except mine was originally 3 single-coil pickups, just like a genuine Strat. But i had the bridge pickup replaced by a Di Marzio humbucker (stacked to occupy a single-coil space).

And, there is a three way micro switch for the preamp control (middle boost, off, high boost).

Some weldings seem to be torned
This is the only part of your post where the translation seems to have failed. But I take you to mean that some of the solder connections are broken.

Absolutly!

Let's start with the basics. At a bare minimum, you will need the soldering iron you bought, and electrical (not plumbing) solder, and it will be useful to have a device to remove the old solder from the existing connections (a device we call a "solder sucker" is one type). It will also be useful, but not strictly necessary, to have a multimeter to test things.

OK, I will buy a solder sucker. If I struggle, I will consider buying a multimeter.

If some connections have failed, and given that the guitar has just been sitting without anyone going inside the wiring, the failed connections are due to simple aging.

As I said in my previous post, aging is not the only reason! My poor replacement collapsing pickgard is mainly guilty!

If some have failed already, expect that the others will soon also fail. So plan on a complete rewiring of all the connections.

Fine for me. Quite exciting too!

Because you don't care for the preamp. eliminating that will simplify things considerably. How is that turned on and off?

By the micro switch I talked about above. And I'm totally OK to eleminate the preamp completely.

I said you would need some basic skills, one of these is soldering. Are you experienced at all with soldering?

Not at all!

If not, practice a bit to get comfortable with it before you dive into repairing the guitar. Find some old piece of electonics like an old radio (or just its components) and practice desoldering and resoldering the connections. There are probably dozens of YouTube videos you can consult for tips and techniques.

OK.

If the humbucker is not working, are one or more of its wires disconnected?

I don't think. Like for other pickups, there is a big black wire going out of the pickup, which seems in perfect condition.

If so, it's probably just a wiring issue and it just needs to be properly reconnected. If it looks to be still connected, it might still be a wiring issue, just one not visible to the naked eye, but it might also mean an internal defect in the pickup, meaning the pickup would have to be replaced (it might be repairable, but that's a higher level of skill needed to effect a repair).

I don't know. My guess is the pickup is ok, and the connection seems strong. Perhaps there is a connection problem elsewhere.






You didn't say whether you planned on keeping that pickup or not. If you want to keep it, a multimeter would be needed to test it, unless, as I said, it is obviously disconnected. If you plan to replace it anyway, then no need to test it.

I want to keep that pickup! It sounded great!

Can the problem come from elsewhere? For example, this photo: the black wire ends nowhere, the green component has only one end connected !





If you are going to get rid of the active preamp, things are simplified. Does it already have a push/pull to split the bridge or are you wanting to add that?

The tone pot is already a push/pull to split the bridge humbucker.

Some well-focused photos of the existing wiring will help us help you, as will answers to the questions above (sorry for all the questions!)

Here are some photos of the multicolored noodle dish!


















Also, you said that you had "cleaned everything". With older guitars that have been sitting for a while, usually the pots get dirty inside and sound "scratchy" when you rotate them. If you did not already do so, get some spray-on electronics cleaner and try to spray the insides of the pots. Rotate the shaft, respray it a few tiumes. The other option would be to just replace the existing pots, they are not too expensive.



No scratches for me, but I will do that still.


If the preamp is to be eliminated, then what you are wanting is a HSS Strat with a push/pull to split the bridge humbucker, with single volume and tone controls, correct?

Absolutly!

If so, that's not too tough to do, we should be able to get you there.


That is great!

Thank you again.

EDIT: cynical1 beat me to the punch while I was typing. I was assuming eliminating the preamp, but you may want to consider the value of this, and keeping the wiring as original.

No, it is not a matter of value for me. Unless bringing back the preamp to life is easy and free.
I don't care much about the preamp.

Thanks again, bye,

Vincent

[newey]

Unfortunately, the wiring for the preamp makes enough of a rat's nest that it is difficulty to tell much from the photos.

The Green component is the capacitor for the tone pot. The fact that it is disconnected would not affect the brifge humbucker. It will mean that the tone control won't work properly, it will act like a crappy volume control. The unconnected end just connects to a ground point.

I can't tell from the photos whether the disconnected black wire is from the bridge humbucker or not. Since you are planning to eliminate the preamp, (and after doing some soldering practice, as I mentioned above), you should start by disconnecting everything and desoldering all the connections. You could "roll the dice" betting on whether the DiMarzio pickup is faulty or not, but I strongly suggest testing the pickup first, and also testing the switches to be sure they are operating properly. If you rewire the guitar and it turns out one of those components has aged beyond its lifespan, it can be devilishly difficult to pinpoint the problem. I test even brand-new components before wiring them into a circuit, and with used components the need to do so is even greater.

If you don't have a multimeter, do you have any electronics-nerdy friends that might have one that you could borrow? I am not sure about the costs for these in the EU, in the US a cheap one can be bought at most hardware stores for about $15-20 USD. While you can certainly rewire the guitar without a meter, you can save yourself a lot of grief by checking things first.

Without the preamp, a basic wiring diagranm for what you want is pretty straightforward, although a busy weekend out of town may mean that it's next week before I can get anything posted for you.

[150cdm]

[cynical1]

The only reason I know about Blade guitars is because of Keb Mo. You know you've been doing it too long when you go to a show...and you're looking at headstocks...

Newey makes a valid point, without a diagram or schematic it's pretty tough to determine where things fit. The broken solder connections are certainly an indicator that functionality may be compromised...and that's just the obvious stuff...

If that were my guitar...and I never liked the preamp anyway...I'd gut the electronics, keep the pickups...and start over. From my experience, it may likely take you more time to trace all the faults in the old components than it would be to just install new. That, and there appears to be no diagrams or schematics for Levinson guitars online to guide you through the existing maze of wires.

If you have a music store that does repairs they should have a meter. If you can pull the pickups, bring them with you...buy some strings...a couple picks...and ask if they can check your pickups. If it's a few Euros it's still cheaper than buying a meter you may never use again. I'd bet a can of Fast Fret the DiMarzio is still good.

And it doesn't need to be a flooded culvert for time to ravage your electronics. The corrosion could be nothing more than a haze or frosting you may need a magnifying glass to see. I've got a 35 year old Peavey bass that needs an organ transplant...and it never saw a basement, storage unit, back porch or attic in its life. These are all OEM components, sourced and spec'd for their cost...not necessarily their longevity.

Nice looking guitar, by the way. I've never had my hands one one. I liked Levinson's comment on his website,  "As a guitar builder I am dedicated to the creation of musical instruments, not furniture." Sounds like a keeper.

So, the question would appear to be, what features or functionality would you like in a rewire?  Everything from simple all the way up through wretched excess is likely contained within the bowels of this forum.

Happy Trails

C1

[newey]

The push/pull pot for the tone control looks a bit rusted, while the volume pot looks fairly pristine. I would definitely check that switch/pot before reinstalling. Once you rewire everything, if it doesn't work properly, it becomes difficult to know if there's a problem with the component or with your wiring.

I agree with cynical1, the odds are good that the DiMarzio pickup is fine. But he agrees with me that you should desolder everything and start fresh. If so, might as well check that pickup to be sure since you will have it unhooked anyway. And, yes, borrowing a multimeter from a music store or guitar tech is a good idea.

Before I do a diagram, a couple more questions: As the guitar was wired originally, did the 5-way switch select the typical Strat selections- N/N+M/M/M+B/B? I would assmue so, but just to be sure. Also, does it matter to you which coil will be the one operating when the coil split switch is pulled?

Also, if you are removing the preamp, you'll have an extra hole in the pickguard- and you'll have the switch from the preamp which could be reused. (again, I advise checking it before reusing it, but it's probably fine). Have you considered using that switch for some other function? You would avoid an empty hole in the pickguard and potentially increase the function. You indicated that it was a 3-position switch; we would need you to check the connections in the center position, as there are 2 possibilities for how that is internally connected. Or, you could replace that switch with a 2-position switch. Possible uses would include a phase switch, a series/parallel switch, or a "neck on" switch. My preference would be for the "neck on" switch, this would operate to turn the neck pickup "on" regardless of the position of the 5-way pickup selector, thereby giving you the N + B (like a Tele) option as well as the N + M + B option. But there would be a number of other options as well.

[cynical1]

A neck or bridge on switch is nice...(Gilmour thought so)...a coil split on your bridge humbucker makes the neck\bridge on switch more effective...and a phase switch is cool, too...(think Peter Green)...then there's the series\parallel thing...

The late great chrisk always preached about looking at a design as modules. Design your modules, then design your build. Much of that has already been done by the many that pass through here.

You are limited only by the real estate in the control cavity.

HTC1

[150cdm]

The Green component is the capacitor for the tone pot.

OK!

The fact that it is disconnected would not affect the brifge humbucker. It will mean that the tone control won't work properly, it will act like a crappy volume control. The unconnected end just connects to a ground point.

OK. I didn't test the tone pot, I almost never use it, always maxed up (on any guitar).

I can't tell from the photos whether the disconnected black wire is from the bridge humbucker or not.

I checked, and no, this black wire is not from the humbucker, but from the volume pot case.



Since you are planning to eliminate the preamp, (and after doing some soldering practice, as I mentioned above), you should start by disconnecting everything and desoldering all the connections.

Quite intimidating, but I will do that! I just ordered a multimeter and a solder sucker. I receive them on monday. This is getting serious! I love it!

You could "roll the dice" betting on whether the DiMarzio pickup is faulty or not, but I strongly suggest testing the pickup first, and also testing the switches to be sure they are operating properly. If you rewire the guitar and it turns out one of those components has aged beyond its lifespan, it can be devilishly difficult to pinpoint the problem. I test even brand-new components before wiring them into a circuit, and with used components the need to do so is even greater.

My arriving multimeter will be the judge. (I never used a multimeter, but I will figure it out!)

Without the preamp, a basic wiring diagranm for what you want is pretty straightforward, although a busy weekend out of town may mean that it's next week before I can get anything posted for you.

Man, absolutly no problem! You are already so far beyond my excpectations when I posted on this forum.

Thank you.

[150cdm]

The only reason I know about Blade guitars is because of Keb Mo.

Didn't know him. The guy can play! I think Chris Rea used a Blade RH-4 guitar at some point.

You know you've been doing it too long when you go to a show...and you're looking at headstocks...

Lol. This guitar, which I bought second hand when I was 16 or 17, was selled by the guitar player of Claude Nougaro, a big star here in France.

Newey makes a valid point, without a diagram or schematic it's pretty tough to determine where things fit. The broken solder connections are certainly an indicator that functionality may be compromised...and that's just the obvious stuff...

My future (next monday) multimeter will help.

If that were my guitar...and I never liked the preamp anyway...I'd gut the electronics, keep the pickups...and start over. From my experience, it may likely take you more time to trace all the faults in the old components than it would be to just install new. That, and there appears to be no diagrams or schematics for Levinson guitars online to guide you through the existing maze of wires.

OK! I'm ready to do the job, properly and completely. I have absolutly no time constraint. This guitar slepted for twenty years, she deserves some care.

If you have a music store that does repairs they should have a meter. If you can pull the pickups, bring them with you...buy some strings...a couple picks...and ask if they can check your pickups. If it's a few Euros it's still cheaper than buying a meter you may never use again. I'd bet a can of Fast Fret the DiMarzio is still good.

Lol. The meter is already bought.
I have another guitar that I would like to repair (less exciting, a Yamaha Pacifica PAC611VFM, but I like her to. Perfect daily, incredible quality price ratio. No more signal from output jack!). This multimeter will help too.
But this is an other story.
And I agree with you, I bet the Di Marzio is OK!

And it doesn't need to be a flooded culvert for time to ravage your electronics. The corrosion could be nothing more than a haze or frosting you may need a magnifying glass to see. I've got a 35 year old Peavey bass that needs an organ transplant...and it never saw a basement, storage unit, back porch or attic in its life. These are all OEM components, sourced and spec'd for their cost...not necessarily their longevity.

OK, let's figure it out.

Nice looking guitar, by the way. I've never had my hands one one. I liked Levinson's comment on his website, "As a guitar builder I am dedicated to the creation of musical instruments, not furniture." Sounds like a keeper.

What I can say: she has been my main tool for over a decade, in countless situations. The best guitar I ever owned.

So, the question would appear to be, what features or functionality would you like in a rewire?

Great question! At first, I was just aiming for a simple HSS with a splitable H.

But you and newey ask this question. It blows my mind! I never thought about that before.

Everything from simple all the way up through wretched excess is likely contained within the bowels of this forum.

I will stay simple. Let me think about this for a couple of days.

[150cdm]

The push/pull pot for the tone control looks a bit rusted, while the volume pot looks fairly pristine. I would definitely check that switch/pot before reinstalling. Once you rewire everything, if it doesn't work properly, it becomes difficult to know if there's a problem with the component or with your wiring.

On the photos I posted earlier of the push/pull tone pot, it seems rusted, I agree. But it is, I think, not that bad. Here are new photos of it.








I agree with cynical1, the odds are good that the DiMarzio pickup is fine. But he agrees with me that you should desolder everything and start fresh. If so, might as well check that pickup to be sure since you will have it unhooked anyway. And, yes, borrowing a multimeter from a music store or guitar tech is a good idea.

Like I said, I'm conviced! The multimeter and the solder sucker are ordered, and, after training, I will desolder and test everything.

Before I do a diagram, a couple more questions: As the guitar was wired originally, did the 5-way switch select the typical Strat selections- N/N+M/M/M+B/B? I would assmue so, but just to be sure.

Yes, I confirm. This is a typical Start selector, like you said.

Also, does it matter to you which coil will be the one operating when the coil split switch is pulled?

No! I assume the two coils are equivalent.

Also, if you are removing the preamp, you'll have an extra hole in the pickguard- and you'll have the switch from the preamp which could be reused. (again, I advise checking it before reusing it, but it's probably fine). Have you considered using that switch for some other function?

Absolutly not! This blows my mind!

You would avoid an empty hole in the pickguard and potentially increase the function. You indicated that it was a 3-position switch; we would need you to check the connections in the center position, as there are 2 possibilities for how that is internally connected. Or, you could replace that switch with a 2-position switch. Possible uses would include a phase switch, a series/parallel switch, or a "neck on" switch. My preference would be for the "neck on" switch, this would operate to turn the neck pickup "on" regardless of the position of the 5-way pickup selector, thereby giving you the N + B (like a Tele) option as well as the N + M + B option. But there would be a number of other options as well.

I never owned a guitar with a phase switch, nor a series/parallel switch. I think I don't need this.

"Neck on" switch, N+B, N+M+B, etc. I never played guitar able to do that. I need a few days to study those opportunities.

That is so exciting!

Thanks to you, once again.

[cynical1]

There is no shortage of mods available here and around the Internet. Some are useful...and some are genre specific...as in a momentary kill switch...and some are subtle...some are just plain useless...  Just because you have never used it doesn't mean you won't like it once you have it.

To me, these are the most useful mods:

SERIES\PARALLEL

You likely have your guitar wired in parallel. This is the default for a Strat type guitar. The best analogy I can make is that parallel is your inside voice, where series is your outside voice.

NECK\BRIDGE ON

This is typically a simple switch to turn the bridge or neck pickup ON, regardless of where the 5 way switch is positioned. By default you can't get that option of the bridge and neck pickups on together in standard Strat wiring.

OUT OF PHASE

This one is a matter of taste. I like to gain stack pedals, so the out of phase adds a completely different variation on that theme. Again, not for everyone, but a very simple mod to employ. Think of this as your library voice when in series. A whisper when in parallel.

COIL SPLIT

By this, I mean the ability to select one coil from your humbucker's two coils....North and South  The reason newey asked you which coil you wanted to split is because you want to maintain hum cancelling with whatever pickup you pair it with to maintain that North\South humcancelling relationship. For example, if it's typical Strat wiring through a 5 way, you would probably want to split the coil in the bridge pickup to pair with the RWRP middle pickup to maintain hum cancelling...or to keep that annoying 60hz buzz from coming through. If you only used it with the neck, you would select a different coil to maintain hum cancelling with the neck pickup.

________________


I didn't get into a lot of the details on these options. The Internet has volumes of pages and videos describing these in tedious detail, so I just tried to keep it simple. Feel free to go down this rabbit hole at your leisure...

Two final things to consider...since you've got it all gutted out. Shielding and star grounding.

Make sure your shielding is conductive. Aluminum and shielding paint can improve things, but copper foil shielding is my personal preference. Any online guitar site that sells electronics will have it.

Star grounding is another topic well covered by the Internet, so I'll be brief. Essentially, it's where you run all of your grounds to a central location, then out to the jack. You can do this to the back of the pot. I like to use a copper washer. If you are not confident with your soldering, this does make it a bit easier in you. Roughing up the copper washer with some sandpaper first helps improve the solder connection. Once all the grounds are soldered to it I just screw it into the side of the cavity against the shielding. You can also find metal tabs that lock under your pots to do this. They look like this:



There's also considerations for space inside the cavity and functionality of the switches in a real life playing scenario...read as minimizing points of confusion.  Do some research, see what floats your boat and come back and see us.

We'll keep a light on.

HTC1

[150cdm]

Now, I'm learning to use these!

[cynical1]

Nov 7, 2022 18:50:04 GMT -5 150cdm said:

Now, I'm learning to use these!

Don't worry, we can keep a secret...

Practice. Enjoy....Repeat...

HTC1

[newey]

Nov 7, 2022 18:50:04 GMT -5 150cdm said:

Now, I'm learning to use these!

OK, here's a bit of a quick tutorial. To test your DiMarzio pickup, it's helpful to know DM wiring colors, which are like this:



To test the North Coil, you would put one probe from your meter to the red wire, another to the black, doesn't matter which one is which. Set your meter for 20K Ohms ("Ω"), these look to be the lower yellow settings on your meter althought I can't be sure from the photo. You should get a resistance reading of about 4K-4.5KΩ. This is the DC resistance of the North coil by itself

Do the same for the South coil, with the green and white wires. The resistance should be roughly the same, representing the resistance of the South coil alone.

Then, tape (or hold) the white and black wires together, and test the green and the red. This will be the series humbucker of both coils The resistance should be roughly 9.0K to 10KΩ (DIMarzio makes several different models of these "Dual Rail" humbuckers, so we can't be more exact, but if you know the specific model, the DM website will have the specs.)

In any event, if the readings for one or the other coil is significantly off (or if there is infinite resistance*, meaning a total disconnection internally), that would indicate a problem with one or the other of the coils.


*On many meters, an infinite resistance (meaning no conection) is designated by "OR", meaning "out-of-range". That means any resistance is so high as to be beyond the meter's capability, thus disconnected (and infinite).

[150cdm]

OK! Thanks for these precious informations, newey.

Right know, I'm learning to desolder/solder, and I'm not quite ready yet!

And, at the same time, I'm studying those mods cynical1 and you suggested (this is exciting).

I will tell you when I feel ready to commit, and go desolder everything, to rewire this guitar.

Bye,

Vincent

[150cdm]

OK, here I am again. And I practised my soldering skills.

For my guitar, I decided to stay simple: classic HSS circuit, this is all I need.

I choose to forget, for the moment, the 3 way switch.

If you guys can give me a diagram, I'll go and try my best!

Cheers,

Vincent

[newey]

150cdm-

Good to hear from you again. It may be next week before I can get to drawing something up for you.

What I'll do is, I will draw a diagram without the 3-way switch and then draw a separate module of the 3-way switch that could be added in as desired.

(It's such a pretty guitar, I hate to think of it with that extra hole, it's like a pretty girl who took out her eyebrow piercing )

Since you got the multimeter, did you check the operation of that 3-way switch? If I'm going to include that as an option, I need to know whether it's On-Off-On or On-On-On. It'll be good practice for you to put that shiny new multimeter to use!

[150cdm]

Good to hear from you again. It may be next week before I can get to drawing something up for you.

That is great! I'm not in a hurry, and I thank you for doing this job of drawing a diagram for me, whenever you want/can.

What I'll do is, I will draw a diagram without the 3-way switch and then draw a separate module of the 3-way switch that could be added in as desired.

OK, that sounds good to me! So I can solder the HSS version, and then, if I want, going deeper with the 3 way switch. Great! Perfect!

(It's such a pretty guitar, I hate to think of it with that extra hole, it's like a pretty girl who took out her eyebrow piercing )

Lol. Don't worry! On my opinion, imperfection can be a strenght.

Since you got the multimeter, did you check the operation of that 3-way switch?

No, I confess.

If I'm going to include that as an option, I need to know whether it's On-Off-On or On-On-On.

Do not bother about this switch! I think I don't need it!

It'll be good practice for you to put that shiny new multimeter to use!

You are right! I'll try this tomorrow.

Thanks again for your precious help newey.

Vincent

[150cdm]

Hello newey,

If you can draw the diagram for my case, I take it!

If you don't have the time, I'll do otherwise.

Thanks,

Vincent

[newey]

Sorry to leave you hanging, I can probably take a look at this tomorrow.

[newey]

OK, here's a basic diagram with just the push/pull to split the bridge humbucker. I used DiMarzio colors for the humbucker, the single coil colors are arbitrary. And 5-way switches vary somewhat, I couldn't tell from your photos exactly what type you had, you may need to translate from your switch to the diagram. Also, I show the push/pull coil split switch as separate from the pot for clarity. You could use the push/pull for either the V or T pots, doesn't matter, your preference as to where you want that switch.

Without knowing the polarity of your middle pickup, it is unknown whether the split-coil will be hum-cancelling, as we have discussed above. To be sure that it is, we will need you to check the polarity of the middle pickup (a toy compass can be used to do this, or you can do the "screwdriver pull-off test".). If it has to be changed to be hum-cancelling, it is only a matter of moving the one black wire from that switch from ground (as shown, to the back of the pot) to the "hot" terminal of the volume pot.

[150cdm]

Hello,

Thank you, this is a great christmas gift!

My turn now, time to commit!

I'll keep you informed (and perhaps, once again, ask for your precious help).

Cheers,

Vincent

[150cdm]

Here I am again, with a lot of questions!

Neck Pickup

OK, I have, according to the diagram, my red and black (white in real life) wires. But what shall I do with the third, non covered wire? 




Middle Pickup

Exactly the same question.




Bridge (DiMarzio) HB Pickup

The colors match perfectly with the diagram. But once again, there is this extra, not colored wire, I don't know what to do with it!









Selector

The diagram is clear, but I'm not sure with the orientation of the piece! 

Here are photos of the selector, both sides.








And here is my guess to follow the diagram (on the left side).








Am I right?

Tone knob + Split




If B is the lower left connector on the diagram, and A the one above, am I right?

Volume knob




I'm nervous to have to solder seven wires on the case of this guy, but I'll try!

Output jack

Two slots on the diagram. Three on my case!




On which slot goes the red? And the black?

That strange black wire

There is an extra wire, hanging around. It is soldered to the vibrato springs system, and goes through the body.

Am I supposed to do something with it?








Thanks again for your help!

Vincent

[cynical1]

Jan 30, 2023 23:25:02 GMT -5 150cdm said:

Here I am again, with a lot of questions!

I'll take the easy ones

Neck Pickup

OK, I have, according to the diagram, my red and black (white in real life) wires. But what shall I do with the third, non covered wire? 

Middle Pickup

Exactly the same question.

Bridge (DiMarzio) HB Pickup

The colors match perfectly with the diagram. But once again, there is this extra, not colored wire, I don't know what to do with it!

Those are ground wires. Wherever you attach your grounds, these go in the same place.

Selector

The diagram is clear, but I'm not sure with the orientation of the piece!

I'm nervous to have to solder seven wires on the case of this guy, but I'll try!

Somewhere in this thread I mentioned "star grounding". I've used it for a while now and personally find it easier in execution. YMMV

Output jack

Two slots on the diagram. Three on my case!

That's a "stereo", or TRS jack. (Tip, Ring, Sleeve) Likely a design remnant from the old preamp. You only need the Tip and Sleeve without the preamp.


The SLEEVE is referred to as GND in this image.  Same same.

That strange black wire

There is an extra wire, hanging around. It is soldered to the vibrato springs system, and goes through the body.

Am I supposed to do something with it?

That is your string ground. Without that the guitar will buzz until you touch the strings. Solder to wherever you solder your grounds.


HTC1

[newey]

150cdm-

All of those bare wires are shield grounds, they ground out the frame/baseplate of the pickups. They all get attached to your grounding point. You mentioned being worried about soldering so many grounds to the back of a pot, and you're right to be worried. Consider using a "star grounding" scheme instead. You'll find numerous references to this type of grounding here, if you search the board. I use star grounding all the time, I use a washer to solder the grounds onto and then screw the washer into the side of the cavity (you have to sand or grind the washer a bit to roughen the surface so the solder will adhere). But there are other ways to do it as well.

The wire from your tremolo/bridge is the string ground. It, too, needs to be grounded. When we do wiring diagrams, we tend to omit all these grounds (as being understood to go to ground) for clarity, as I did on the diagram above.

Also for clarity, I showed the push/pull as separate from the pot. Just know that, when pulled up, the center lugs connect to the upper lugs, the ones closest to the pot itself. When down, center lugs connect to the lower lugs. So, you would wire to the upper lugs since I assume you want the coils split when the switch is pulled up.

Your output jack has extra lugs because of the preamp you have now omitted; the extra connection is to disconnect the battery when a cable is not plugged into the jack. So, you only need the 2 lugs. It's hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like "B" is the sleeve (or barrel) connection which is the ground. "A" would seem to be the tip, but double check that visually.

As for your 5-way switch, I can't tell from the photos, and these switches do vary, so testing the switch is your best bet. You said you didn't have a multimeter, but all you really need is a continuity tester, which are pretty cheap, or you can use your new soldering skills to make one from a 1.5V battery, a flashlight bulb, and a couple of pieces of wire. There are probably dozens of videos on how to do this. Just be sure that the bulb you use is the correct voltage- if the flashlight used 2 1.5V batteries, then you need 2 for the tester as well.

I found this one:



EDIT:Ninja'd by cynical1!