dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Jan 16, 2023 12:01:18 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by newey on Jan 16, 2023 20:50:41 GMT -5
Everything looks fine but I can't tell if the Bourns Blend pot is the same as YogiB's link. The Guitar Electronics one has a "SKU" number but not the Bourns Part number, at least not that I saw. So, I can't correlate the two. It's probably the right one but I couldn't swear to it.
|
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 26, 2023 13:31:54 GMT -5
I finally received all the parts needed for the HSH strat wiring plan generously provided here on the forum by YogiB:  I wired it up without issue (my first!) and everything seems to work as advertised, *except* that the neck humbucker north coil/south coil orientation is reversed when I split the neck humbucker, ie. I get the opposite coil from what is specified in the wiring diagram. So for example, with the coil split on in position 2, I get the neck humbucker south coil (not the north screw coil) combined with the middle pickup. I have both humbuckers mounted with the screw poles facing out like the illustration in the diagram. The bridge humbucker works as intended.  So my questions: 1) Should I switch the wires coming from the neck humbucker or just spin the pickup around 180 degrees so that the coil with the height adjustable screws is facing the opposite way? 2) Might this cause phase issues? I made a couple of parts changes: Pickups: Lollar Imperial humbuckers, Lollar Vintage blonde Middle Pickup Pot 1: CTS 500K Master Volume with Push-Pull for coil splitting and treble bleed circuit Pot 2: 250K Bourns Blend Pot (PDB182-GTRB1-254MN) Pot 3: 500K True Bypass Tone Pot Lollar Humbucker wire colour code: www.lollarguitars.com/single-conductor-vs-4-conductor-wire Treble Bleed: (100V-200V 0.001 uF cap with 150K Ohm 1/4 watt metal film resistor)   |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 28, 2023 12:57:50 GMT -5
Below is my attempt at a blend wiring. YogiB - Can I trouble you to weigh in on this? I assume that I've wired the neck pup backwards, but before I change anything I would like to know if I may be creating phase problems or some other problem. I haven't checked the circuit in a guitar yet - just tapped on the pups to check for sound - but it would probably work great the way it is; as I said, everything seems to be working perfectly except for the neck humbucker coil selections, which are opposite of what they are supposed to be on the diagram. I probably got mixed up interpreting the Lollar colour codes, which are completely different from the DiMarzio colour assignments. Thanks again for taking the time to solve my pickup problem and for drawing such a concise wiring diagram! It was very easy to follow and it made me feel like I know what I'm doing (which I don't)! I'm really excited about this guitar and this blend circuit. My neck is on order at Warmoth but I've got the body and now the electronics sorted out (see pics below). I mounted the knobs lower than is typical - I've never been a fan of the location of that top volume knob. I still need to take care of the shielding on both the pickguard and the body cavity, but I have work to do on the pickguard anyway and intended to remove the electrical components at this stage. Another question: Do I need to run a ground wire from the pots to the shielding in the body cavity, or will the grounding wire running from the bridge to the body cavity be sufficient? Cheers! dustin   |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 29, 2023 12:33:50 GMT -5
Thanks Newey - "red swaps with black, white swaps with green"; looks like that fixed it!
|
|
|
|
Post by Yogi B on Apr 29, 2023 13:25:43 GMT -5
1) Should I switch the wires coming from the neck humbucker or just spin the pickup around 180 degrees so that the coil with the height adjustable screws is facing the opposite way? 2) Might this cause phase issues? Assuming the Lollars are both as their colour code diagram specify (e.g. south screw coil, with the same wire colours), then having the wrong coil selected in say position 3 split will result in either: a combination which is out-of-phase, but still hum-cancelling; or a combination which is in phase, but not hum-cancelling. So in either case, you'll probably want to rewire it to sort out the coil selection. The puzzling thing is, from what I can see of your wiring, nothing obvious seems out of place. How does the level of hum vary across the split positions? I also don't know for certain what winding/polarity Lollar's middle pickups are in relation to their humbuckers. So the neck pickup being backwards might be 'correct' so far as its relationship to the middle is concerned, so instead we'd be thinking about reversing the bridge. In addition to tapping the pickups to see which are selected, with the use of a multimeter or an audio interface it is possible to use the The Screwdriver Pull-off Test to ascertain their phase. That information would also be helpful. I have work to do on the pickguard anyway and intended to remove the electrical components at this stage. That's also an opportunity to check the pickups' magnetic polarities (if you have no other means of doing so). The humbuckers should be attracted to each other in the way which orientates them with slugs of one pickup towards the screws of the other, and vice-versa. And also (the top of) the middle pickup should be attracted to the slugs of both pickups. Preferably the bridge grounding would have its own connection to the circuit's ground. However, if that's not already the case, then yes I'd run a wire either from the pots (or maybe directly from the output jack) to the point where the bridge ground & shielding meet.
I'd just finished the above when I noticed: Thanks Newey - "red swaps with black, white swaps with green"; looks like that fixed it! Yep, that is the solution to swap coils, literally just swapping the connections to the north coil with their equivalents from the south coil, but this still leaves me guessing as to why the swap was needed in the first place. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 29, 2023 15:10:04 GMT -5
How does the level of hum vary across the split positions? I also don't know for certain what winding/polarity Lollar's middle pickups are in relation to their humbuckers. So the neck pickup being backwards might be 'correct' so far as its relationship to the middle is concerned, so instead we'd be thinking about reversing the bridge. The humbuckers should be attracted to each other in the way which orientates them with slugs of one pickup towards the screws of the other, and vice-versa. And also (the top of) the middle pickup should be attracted to the slugs of both pickups. With the pickguard sitting on my table out of the guitar body, I would say that the humbuckers are humming a bit more than the coil-split combinations. From the Lollar website: "4-conductor leads are used in more complex wiring and switching configurations that involve humbucking pickups. With 4-conductor leads, each of the humbucker’s two coils has two leads. 4-conductor humbucker leads will allow you to use series/parallel, in/out of phase, or coil split switching. To use series/parallel or in/out of phase switching with single-coil pickups such as those for Strat or Tele, you can order your pickup with an additional third wire. With certain other pickups such as P-90s, we can build the pickup with a jacketed 2-conductor lead for using series/parallel or in/out of phase options. If you have questions about what pickup types can be used in this way, please contact us and we’ll help you out." I hope I didn't order the wrong type of middle pickup. That would be a real drag..! Should it have three wires? I'll do the coil attraction test you mentioned. That seems the simplest way to check given my limited understanding of multimeters. Thanks again for your help! Attached are some pics of the circuit with the wires switched as Newey suggested. The top picture is from the Lollar website showing wire colour codes. dustin       |
|
|
|
Post by newey on Apr 30, 2023 9:00:27 GMT -5
I hope I didn't order the wrong type of middle pickup. That would be a real drag..! Should it have three wires? No worries on this. If you have both HBs with 4-wire conductors (plus the bare ground wire), then either type of middle pickup will work, it only becomes a question when splitting the coils of the HBs, since you'll want both HBs to hum-cancel with the middle when the coils are split. As long as the pickups are out of the pickguard, perform the megnetic testing as Yogi B suggested, this will tell us if the coils of the 2 HBs are identical, or wired opposite, which will then determine which coils need to be split to maintain hum cancelling with the middle pickup. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 30, 2023 9:57:00 GMT -5
I hope I didn't order the wrong type of middle pickup. That would be a real drag..! Should it have three wires? No worries on this. If you have both HBs with 4-wire conductors (plus the bare ground wire), then either type of middle pickup will work, it only becomes a question when splitting the coils of the HBs, since you'll want both HBs to hum-cancel with the middle when the coils are split. As long as the pickups are out of the pickguard, perform the megnetic testing as Yogi B suggested, this will tell us if the coils of the 2 HBs are identical, or wired opposite, which will then determine which coils need to be split to maintain hum cancelling with the middle pickup. Great, thanks; I'll check this today. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 30, 2023 11:09:09 GMT -5
Okay, so I removed the electronics and did this magnetic polarities test. The humbuckers are behaving as they should, ie. slugs attracted to screws. However the middle pickup is attracted to the screws of both humbuckers. How do I correct this problem? |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Apr 30, 2023 17:13:05 GMT -5
it only becomes a question when splitting the coils of the HBs, since you'll want both HBs to hum-cancel with the middle when the coils are split. [/quote] So since my middle pickup is attracted to the humbucker screws, does this mean I need to change which coils need to be split? Thx |
|
|
|
Post by newey on May 1, 2023 5:03:32 GMT -5
So since my middle pickup is attracted to the humbucker screws, does this mean I need to change which coils need to be split? Thx Yes, if you want positions 2 and 4 to be hum-cancelling. Currently, as shown on Yogi B's diagram, you are splitting to the slug coils. Since the mid pickup attracts the screw coils of both HBs, those are the coils you'll need to get hum-cancellation. But as YogiB noted, something isn't adding up here. You started with the problem of the neck and middle coils being reversed, so I had you wire one HB "inside out", which you indicated solved that issue. But, if both HBs are wired identically (i.e., both screw coils are N, slugs are both S), then you should have been having the same issue when the Bridge and middle were combined. Are you sure this statement was correct? With HBs sometimes it can be difficult to tell which coil is active by tapping, since the tapping will induce a signal (albeit a weaker one) in the inactive coil. EDIT: For those who may notice a lack of continuity in this thread, this bit: "Thanks Newey - "red swaps with black, white swaps with green"; looks like that fixed it!" came about in a PM between dcgit and me, I then suggested he repost the matter here for general discusssion, which he has done. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 1, 2023 10:01:47 GMT -5
Are you sure this statement was correct? With HBs sometimes it can be difficult to tell which coil is active by tapping, since the tapping will induce a signal (albeit a weaker one) in the inactive coil. I could be wrong, but I am fairly certain that this statement was correct. As you said here, I did notice a weaker signal in the inactive coils, but one coil was clearly stronger than the other. I have since removed the pickups and pots from the pickguard. The neck humbucker slugs are attracted to the screws of the bridge humbucker and visa versa, so does that clear things up? (The middle pickup is attracted to the screws of both humbuckers.) It would be easy enough to switch it back to the way I had it wired originally if that helps. Having the south neck humbucker coil selected instead of the north coil is not too bad a result at the end of the day. I am guessing that it is more important to have the bridge coil assignments as outlined in the wiring diagram, since the south coil of the bridge humbucker is so close to the bridge. |
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on May 1, 2023 21:22:12 GMT -5
The neck humbucker slugs are attracted to the screws of the bridge humbucker and visa versa, so does that clear things up? (The middle pickup is attracted to the screws of both humbuckers.) It would be easy enough to switch it back to the way I had it wired originally if that helps. Having the south neck humbucker coil selected instead of the north coil is not too bad a result at the end of the day. I am guessing that it is more important to have the bridge coil assignments as outlined in the wiring diagram, since the south coil of the bridge humbucker is so close to the bridge. I've got several things going on right now so I won't have the time to do a deep dive into this one. If the face of the middle pole pieces (the end closest to the strings) is attracted to the screw heads of your HBs, it seems your middle pickup a north coil. Using a screw coil from a HB with a north single will hum-cancel. I see from the text on Yogi's diagram he was expecting the middle to be a south coil. At this point, it's probably best to do a screwdriver pull-off test on each coil and confirm you get a negative pulse on the meter when it's connected with the red probe of the meter connected to what you think is the hot. After that, someone should review Yogi's drawing to determine what changes need to be made to get the best combinations in the various switch positions. Having outers (south) of the HBs paired with the middle in positions 2 and 4 isn't a bad thing but using the bridgemost coil of the bridge pickup as a single in the bridge-only position should be avoided unless you're going for that icepick in the forehead kind of sound. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 2, 2023 13:15:45 GMT -5
At this point, it's probably best to do a screwdriver pull-off test on each coil and confirm you get a negative pulse on the meter when it's connected with the red probe of the meter connected to what you think is the hot. I did a screwdriver pull-off test on each coil as requested. I have a couple of (cheap) old multimeters and was only able to get a reading on the digital one. I set it to where I am guessing is the best setting and got a surprising result. With the coil split engaged, positions 2 and 4 are reading in phase (both with minus signs, see pics below), whereas with the two humbuckers engaged I get an out-of-phase result with the minus sign only on the bridge humbucker. I wish I had done this test as suggested by YogiB before switching the wiring - am I correct in thinking that this means it was properly in phase the first time? I tried with the analog meter before making the changes but wasn't able to get any readings so I decided to try the magnetic polarities method instead.     |
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on May 2, 2023 17:47:41 GMT -5
Wrapping wires around your meter probes is definitely a valid way to make a hands-free connection. However leads with alligator clips on both ends are dirt cheap and readily available at places like harbor freight or a hardware store. If you'll be doing any guitar wiring in the future you might want to invest a few bucks for something like that. To make it even more convenient you might like pair of minigrabber leads with bannana plugs on the other end. Pomona makes those and they sell for about twenty bucks at Mouser. Parts Express have a knock-off version that's nearly as good for considerably less. www.parts-express.com/Banana-to-Mini-Grabber-Test-Leads-39-390-328?quantity=1The grabbers expose a hook when you squeeze the end. You place the hook on an exposed wire or terminal. When you release, the hook will retract and hold the wire against the end.
A pickup produces a positive-going signal when the string moves near the pickup and negative-going when it moves away. We get a stronger signal when the screwdriver moves away because it has some time to become magnetized. That's why we pull off and look for a negative-going reading on the DC voltmeter. An analog meter can be more obvious if it has enough sensitivity. But since there isn't much room between the zero position and the endstop, you would reverse the meter connections and look for the needle to swing positive when the screwdriver tip is quickly pulled away. You'll get the largest signal when the coil isn't loaded by volume and tone controls. You can make that happen without disconnecting the pickups from the wiring. Select a position where that pickup isn't selected. For your middle pickup, assume the yellow is + and the black is minus. So the connections to a digital meter will be yellow wire to the red probe and black wire to the black probe. This should produce a negative pulse when the screwdriver is pulled off. To test DiMarzio HBs, Red wire to Red probe and Black wire to Black probe, when testing the slug coil. White wire to Red probe and Green wire to Black probe, when testing the screw coil. If you don't get a negative on one of these tests, reverse the probe connections at the meter. No negative regardless of which way the probes are connected to the meter indicates a problem connecting to the coil. A negative output when the probes are reversed indicates the phase of that coil is contrary to our expectations. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 2, 2023 19:04:51 GMT -5
If you don't get a negative on one of these tests, reverse the probe connections at the meter. No negative regardless of which way the probes are connected to the meter indicates a problem connecting to the coil. A negative output when the probes are reversed indicates the phase of that coil is contrary to our expectations. I'm just realizing right now that I may have created this problem by misunderstanding the original plan laid out by YogiB. I think now that the circuit was working as he intended, and that I had it in my head that the neck north coil meant the screw coil closest to the neck instead of the slug coil. If this is the case, my sincere apologies for wasting the time of those who have been attempting to help me fix a problem that never existed! I think I will change the wiring back to the way it was laid out originally in the wiring diagram and do another round of screwdriver pull-off tests to see if it was right the first time. Regardless, here are the screwdriver pull-off test results I got today after reading your post: Middle pickup by itself: yellow wire to red probe and black wire to black probe yields a negative. (I checked this while it was wired into the circuit so I don't know how accurate this is.) Position 3, Pushed/Down: Neck humbucker screw coil: negativeNeck humbucker slug coil: no negativeBridge humbucker screw coil: negativeBridge humbucker slug coil: negativePosition 3, Pulled/Up (Neck South + Bridge North):Neck humbucker slug coil: no negativeBridge humbucker slug coil: negativePosition 2, Pulled/Up (Neck North + Middle):Neck humbucker screw coil: negativeMiddle pickup: negativePosition 4, Pulled/Up (Bridge North + Middle):Bridge humbucker slug coil: negativeMiddle pickup: negativeIn all cases, reversing the probes at the meter yields the opposite result. |
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on May 3, 2023 9:22:32 GMT -5
I'm just realizing right now that I may have created this problem by misunderstanding the original plan laid out by YogiB. I think now that the circuit was working as he intended, and that I had it in my head that the neck north coil meant the screw coil closest to the neck instead of the slug coil. I don't think it would have worked as-intended, even if wired correctly according to Yogi B diagram. At the very least, there wouldn't be hum-canceling in positions 2 and 4. That circuit was tailored to a Middle pickup with a South magnetic polarity. It will need to be reworked to use a South coil from the appropriate HB when paired with the Middle pickup which has a North magnetic polarity. None of that should have affected phase relationship between the selected coils. Only hum-cancelling. But if my assessment of the results from your pull-off tests is correct, you have an issue with the color of the wires on the Neck HB's slug coil. Perhaps there was one of those rare errors when the Neck pickup was assembled? Perhaps the Red and Black of the Neck HB are internally connected to the wrong ends of coil winding? If so, I don't recommend fixing that internally. The winding is fragile and easily broken. If necessary, you could simply mark the external wires so you know the Red wire should be considered a Black wire, and the Black wire should be considered a white wire. I suggest taking a pause on this until Yogi or someone else confirms my suspicion. Yogi will want to rework his diagram with a Middle pickup with North magnetic polarity, anyway. |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 5, 2023 10:23:33 GMT -5
Does anyone have a solution to this problem? I appreciate the help!
|
|
|
|
Post by Yogi B on May 8, 2023 22:49:55 GMT -5
But if my assessment of the results from your pull-off tests is correct, you have an issue with the color of the wires on the Neck HB's slug coil. The issue is not the with wire colours, but the (latest) wiring. For the neck pickup, the pictures show the red as the 'hot' lead, green and white as the (inter-)coil-tap and by process of elimination black as 'ground'. The white & black wires are wired reversed from what they ought to be for just a 'restacking' of the coils. This does however confirm that (as they should) the black and white wires do connect to the slug coil, since that is the coil observed as having reversed phase. And therefore seems to confirm the below: I'm just realizing right now that I may have created this problem by misunderstanding the original plan laid out by YogiB ... I had it in my head that the neck north coil meant the screw coil closest to the neck instead of the slug coil.
At the very least, there wouldn't be hum-cancelling in positions 2 and 4. That circuit was tailored to a Middle pickup with a South magnetic polarity. It will need to be reworked to use a South coil from the appropriate HB when paired with the Middle pickup which has a North magnetic polarity. True. dcgit Without wishing to further complicate things, there is one more thing that it appears we didn't discuss with the original diagram: potentially flipping the magnet in one of the humbuckers. I likely didn't draw attention to the possibility because in my (current) scheme it is the neck coil selection which is reversed (in terms of inner/outer) versus the original DiMarzio wiring, the difference being fairly minimal. However, to accommodate a north middle pickup (and retain hum-cancellation where possible), it is instead the bridge pickup where the coil selection would differ, wherein there is a larger distinction between the coils. And, whilst I personally prefer splitting to the outer coil of a bridge pickup, I know many others consider it too harsh or brittle. If you do wish to split to the bridge's inner coil: since the pickup is uncovered, it should be a simple matter of (partially) loosening the four bobbin mounting screws on the underside of the baseplate enough that you can slide the magnet out of the side, flip it over, then slide it back in.
Finally, sorry for the delayed response. Only today did I spot the mistaken coil-tap, thus understand the pull-off results. (Coincidentally, today I'm being fuelled by what was intended to be the Christmas turkey, so just be thankful this message isn't as late.) |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 9, 2023 10:38:03 GMT -5
If you do wish to split to the bridge's inner coil: since the pickup is uncovered, it should be a simple matter of (partially) loosening the four bobbin mounting screws on the underside of the baseplate enough that you can slide the magnet out of the side, flip it over, then slide it back in. If it is this simple to reverse the magnet and the result does not negatively affect the pickup's performance, then I am happy to do it. I play with a clean tone most of the time; I think I will find the bridge humbucker more useful if it splits to the inner coil. Btw, should I use a shielded wire between the volume pot and the input jack? The body cavities are well shielded and connected by a soldered wire but the hole that connects the two cavities is not shielded. Please let me know how to proceed. Thanks again for your time! I'm excited about this circuit - a blend pot on an HSH strat is going to be really good fun! (And on top of that I finally took the time to move that top volume pot out my way, which has always annoyed me, lol) |
|
|
|
Post by Yogi B on May 11, 2023 16:26:15 GMT -5
If you do wish to split to the bridge's inner coil: since the pickup is uncovered, it should be a simple matter of (partially) loosening the four bobbin mounting screws on the underside of the baseplate enough that you can slide the magnet out of the side, flip it over, then slide it back in. If it is this simple to reverse the magnet and the result does not negatively affect the pickup's performance, then I am happy to do it. I play with a clean tone most of the time; I think I will find the bridge humbucker more useful if it splits to the inner coil. There's maybe a very minor risk of disturbing the connections to the coils, but that should only present a real issue if the magnet gets snagged on those wires and you were to continue regardless. There's a short guide as the second half of Fralin's How to Reverse Humbucker Polarity. Or a video from Electric City Pickups: (The point about backing off the pole screws is probably irrelevant as threaded baseplates are something I've only seen on the most exacting of PAF replicas.) Here's a version of the diagram with the lead colours updated (and accommodating for the magnet flip): Well that's up to you (I'd say that it shouldn't make a huge difference either way). But, for this specific purpose where by necessity the wire will have a reasonable amount of slack, I'd advise against the vintage style wire with uninsulated braided shield as it'd be a small nightmare ensuring it didn't ground out things it wasn't supposed to (just in case that's what you have). |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 12, 2023 14:16:07 GMT -5
Here's a version of the diagram with the lead colours updated (and accommodating for the magnet flip): Thanks so much for this! I made the changes today and everything appears to be fixed. I did the screwdriver pull-off test and all the pickup combinations give a negative reading. I also checked the pickup selections by plugging in and tapping the corresponding coils; everything is working as it should. I'm going to put it in another guitar I have to test it through an amp, but so far so good..! The wax made the magnet a little difficult to dislodge but I got it sorted out eventually.   |
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 12, 2023 16:17:28 GMT -5
Since I have not yet received the Warmoth neck that I ordered for this guitar, I dropped the pickguard into another HSH strat body that I have to test the pickups.
Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the pickup selections and blend capabilities! This strat is behaving exactly as I wanted it to and the sound of the Lollars is superb! There are a broad range of humbucker and single coil tones available and the blend knob is an intuitive way to dial in the desired mix. It sounds fat and rich like my humbucker-equipped 335 style guitar (1980 Ibanez Artist AS-200, Japanese), but gets appropriately stratty with the coils split. (Actually, I like the humbucker tone every bit as much as my Ibanez Artist.)
I am noticing a significant reduction in volume in positions 2 and 4, however the overall volume when either of these two positions is selected is equivalent to position 3 with the coils split; thus my conclusion is that the drop in volume is a result of the split coils and not a phase issue. I assume this is related to the strength of the pickups that I chose.
Re. hum, all the coil split selections are dead quiet, however there is some hum in positions 1, 3 and 5 when the humbuckers are selected individually or together. In positions 1 or 5 with the coil split engaged there is the hum one would expect from any traditional single coil pickup.
The treble bleed that I used seems to be working exactly as intended and I don't hear a noticeable drop in treble when rolling back the master volume. The tone pot I bought is supposedly a true-bypass pot, but I don't hear much of anything to indicate a significant difference in the tone between fully clockwise ("bypassed") as compared to other settings (like slightly "on"), although to be fair this is not an easy thing to judge while turning a tone knob. Fully counter-clockwise yields a pretty extreme result with this particular pot.
|
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on May 19, 2023 10:32:17 GMT -5
Thanks again to everyone on this forum who helped me solve my problem and contributed to the discussion! As I said once before, it's rare to see such a respectful forum and it's a pleasure to be here.
It was a complicated wiring for me for a first-time project but Yogi's wiring diagram was easy to follow. Hopefully, I have it sorted out now. When I receive the neck from Warmoth, I'll post pics of the finished guitar. Cheers!
|
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Jun 20, 2023 14:13:12 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by newey on Jun 20, 2023 19:21:12 GMT -5
It's a pretty axe, the dark neck/headstock looks good with the blue.
|
|
dcgit
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
|
Post by dcgit on Jun 22, 2023 20:21:50 GMT -5
It's a pretty axe, the dark neck/headstock looks good with the blue. Thanks! Warmoth doesn't offer roasted maple when you order scallops so I sprayed it with a tint to try to get something close. It's certainly not a perfect finish but I'm quite pleased with the colour and overall aesthetic. I ordered a conversion neck (24.75" scale like a Gibson) and it really makes the guitar comfortable to play. The pickups sound sweet and I can't say enough good things about this blend circuit - really fantastic! I have a live/work loft space/shop that I call Speakeasy West, so I branded this guitar accordingly (see pic).    |
|
|
|
Post by stevewf on Jun 22, 2023 23:03:53 GMT -5
It does look great, and congrats on getting the guitar you wanted. I thought the neck was roasted, so I think the tinting job worked well.
Where did you get the custom headstock decals?
|
|
|
|
Post by newey on Jun 23, 2023 7:29:40 GMT -5
Where did you get the custom headstock decals? I don't know what dcgit did to make his, but you can buy 8 1/2" X 11" sheets of waterslide decal paper for either injet or laser printers. One sheet will make a couple dozen headstock decals. Design your desired logo on your PC, fill the page with multiple copies to not waste the decal paper. Print it out. Use an Xacto knife to cut them out, a scissors will bend the edges. Apply at least a coat or two of clear over the finish before applying the decal. Then bury the decal under multiple coats of clearcoat. Sand (lightly) between coats, but only after you have enough coats down so as to not sand down into the decal. I have done all mine this way for years. I have several whole decal sheets with enough decals for years of builds to come! |
|
